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1975 Tucker 1544 - project and trips

I have three machines to report measurements from.

all have 1 " rods.
1642 has a 3" tube 16" of total length
1342 has a 2.5" tube 15 1/2 length of tube
743 has a 2.5 " tube 15 1/2 length of tube

notable differences the 1342 has its swing arm or horshoe mounted up in the frame.
the 1642 has its pivot below the frame

All three of these cats steer effortlessly left and right
the 1642 has extremely wore out bushings on the driverside ( ram side) and or looking bushing on the pass side.
 
Your order sheet shows a 2 1/2" diameter cylinder with an 11" stroke, and there are 1/2" blocks at both ends of the cylinder. That's the exact same configuration as my 1980 Tucker....

Do you know how much pressure your hydraulic pump is putting out? Increased pressure reduces the steering effort, so that might be the issue. Modifying the pump to increase output pressure is easily done. A little messy maybe, but not difficult.

Here's a link to a Vickers publication:


Look at the exploded view on the upper left on page two. Then look for the "941038 Shim Kit". That's where you add shims to increase pressure, or remove shims to decrease pressure.
 
Observing the blade installed, My attention is being called to the aux side of the hydraulic pump.

does your rig have rear hydraulic circuits?
 
redsqwrl said:
I have three machines to report measurements from.

all have 1 " rods.
1642 has a 3" tube 16" of total length
1342 has a 2.5" tube 15 1/2 length of tube
743 has a 2.5 " tube 15 1/2 length of tube

notable differences the 1342 has its swing arm or horshoe mounted up in the frame.
the 1642 has its pivot below the frame

All three of these cats steer effortlessly left and right
the 1642 has extremely wore out bushings on the driverside ( ram side) and or looking bushing on the pass side.
Click to expand...
The ram on my 1544 has been replaced.
This ram has a 2.5" tube and a rod diameter of 1.25"
I would guess the fatter rod cuts the force available on the rod side to pull the ram in, which is causing the lack of steering I am experiencing on that side.
The first fix is to find a proper size hydraulic cylinder.
IMG_2619.JPG
 
redsqwrl said:
Observing the blade installed, My attention is being called to the aux side of the hydraulic pump.

does your rig have rear hydraulic circuits?
Click to expand...
There is no evidence of hydraulic lines going to the rear.
Here is a diagram of the hydraulic circuit.
I find it odd that the top pressure port on the pump goes back to the filter on the hydraulic tank, and it is tee'd up to the return off the orbital, but it seems to work.


IMG_2787.jpg


IMG_1771.JPG
IMG_2781.JPG
IMG_2782.JPG
 
I put on another 190 or so kilometers this weekend.
I'm still have issues with paint flakes coming out of the fuel tank and into the fuel filters, but I'm getting pretty fast at removing filters and blowing out the debris coming from the tank. At least replacing the gate valve with a ball valve is letting the debris pass into the filters, (so far!).
View from the hot tub, while having a relaxing day.

IMG_2725.JPG
 
The snow is starting to rot, so it is important to stay on the hard pack trail, hence my concern about steering. Letting the Tucker wander off the hard pack means an instant stuck because there is still 3 or 4 feet of unpacked snow to tip into.
I found that I had much better luck staying on the trail while the front Eaton electric eLocker was engaged. The eLocker maintains equal traction, while the open diff would do what open diffs do, which is to transfer power away from the side that is sudden becoming a drag. The result for me was the track biting into soft snow would pull that way, and the other track in the open diff would speed up and plow the Tucker immediately into the ditch. The Tucker would always back out of the stuck, but it is not the way I want to spend my day being suddenly face down in the ditch.
Very happy with the Eaton eLocker. Plus, I found when pushing snow for a fill the eLocker made a huge difference in pushing ability.


IMG_2774.JPG
 
Also a note about the 727 automatic. Very happy with that transmission. Forward and reverse are fast, but at the cost of no deep reduction in first in forward. So typical for these automatics, you can bog the automatic if you are stopped with a large front load and hit the gas expecting to go. The circumstances where I noticed this I also noticed that if there was a deeper reduction, the strain would just be passed on to break some other component in the drive train.
In good conditions I was traveling 70 km in 5 hours. The speedo does not have a proper reduction drive for the 727 so the speedo is wrapped around to zero again when in 3 gear at 3200 rpm. Anyone have a line on a proper speedo gear that fits on the 727? The reducer off the standard tranny doesn't fit the 727.
 
YamaDooPolCat said:
I put on another 190 or so kilometers this weekend.
I'm still have issues with paint flakes coming out of the fuel tank and into the fuel filters, but I'm getting pretty fast at removing filters and blowing out the debris coming from the tank. At least replacing the gate valve with a ball valve is letting the debris pass into the filters, (so far!).
View from the hot tub, while having a relaxing day.

View attachment 163892
Click to expand...

I thought that was what I was looking at in post 194. Very nice
 
YamaDooPolCat said:
Also a note about the 727 automatic. Very happy with that transmission. Forward and reverse are fast, but at the cost of no deep reduction in first in forward. So typical for these automatics, you can bog the automatic if you are stopped with a large front load and hit the gas expecting to go. The circumstances where I noticed this I also noticed that if there was a deeper reduction, the strain would just be passed on to break some other component in the drive train.
In good conditions I was traveling 70 km in 5 hours. The speedo does not have a proper reduction drive for the 727 so the speedo is wrapped around to zero again when in 3 gear at 3200 rpm. Anyone have a line on a proper speedo gear that fits on the 727? The reducer off the standard tranny doesn't fit the 727.
Click to expand...

No on the reducer, but your 14kph / 8mph is right where you should be to keep everything track related happy
 
redsqwrl said:
I have three machines to report measurements from.

all have 1 " rods.
1642 has a 3" tube 16" of total length
1342 has a 2.5" tube 15 1/2 length of tube
743 has a 2.5 " tube 15 1/2 length of tube

notable differences the 1342 has its swing arm or horshoe mounted up in the frame.
the 1642 has its pivot below the frame

All three of these cats steer effortlessly left and right
the 1642 has extremely wore out bushings on the driverside ( ram side) and or looking bushing on the pass side.
Click to expand...
I don’t trust the measurements I have for my steering Ram as it is the wrong one, so could you give me more details on the cylinder from the 1342 Tucker?
Eye to eye max and minimum length?
And any specs you can think of to narrow down what cylinder I need to find.
Thank you for this.
 
I did not get the build sheet for my 1342 but all three tuckers have very similar rods.

My son build rams for a living if you want I will take it off and have him copy it.

My 1342 is a project cat that would be no problem.
 
To the T on the filter. My understanding is the pump has two outputs and a waste on one of them. Steering has priority and is supplied by the non waste side.

the Other output is the aux. I have seen many people remove their rear or aux circuits and loop the output to the reservoir. jsut make sure some one did not flip the pump outputs, You may be just bypassing as the required force is not met due to math on the piston.

the caveat is the turn to the rod side should be much quicker.

I giggled about the diving in soft snow observation........ enjoy that rotting snow, we call it hero snow!
 
Blackfoot Tucker said:
Your order sheet shows a 2 1/2" diameter cylinder with an 11" stroke, and there are 1/2" blocks at both ends of the cylinder. That's the exact same configuration as my 1980 Tucker....

Do you know how much pressure your hydraulic pump is putting out? Increased pressure reduces the steering effort, so that might be the issue. Modifying the pump to increase output pressure is easily done. A little messy maybe, but not difficult.

Here's a link to a Vickers publication:


Look at the exploded view on the upper left on page two. Then look for the "941038 Shim Kit". That's where you add shims to increase pressure, or remove shims to decrease pressure.
Click to expand...
I couldn’t find anything on line about what “blocked 1/2” each end” means???
Help!
 
Blackfoot Tucker said:
Your order sheet shows a 2 1/2" diameter cylinder with an 11" stroke, and there are 1/2" blocks at both ends of the cylinder. That's the exact same configuration as my 1980 Tucker....

Do you know how much pressure your hydraulic pump is putting out? Increased pressure reduces the steering effort, so that might be the issue. Modifying the pump to increase output pressure is easily done. A little messy maybe, but not difficult.

Here's a link to a Vickers publication:


Look at the exploded view on the upper left on page two. Then look for the "941038 Shim Kit". That's where you add shims to increase pressure, or remove shims to decrease pressure.
Click to expand...
A question about the build sheet.
The cylinder info says Bore and Stroke. So is that 2.5” Bore the OD of the outside of the cylinder or the inside piston size? If so then the outside diameter of the cylinder should be like 3” or more?
 
YamaDooPolCat said:
Look what I received from Tucker regarding the steering ram!
This is perfect.
Click to expand...
that is beautiful for sure.

1/2" blocked is parts number 5 there are 2 of them.

In my opinion what they do is limit the travel of a common ram to facilitate its use in tuckers application.
When people replace rams, they don't take into account all the tucker-isms and over travel the saddle and twist it. the saddle or horseshoe is very fragile and once its bent hard to straighten.
 
Took the Tucker out this weekend for local run with some Polaris side by sides on tracks. The Tucker led in the really heavy snow, but the Polaris 1000 did really well in all but the worst snow.
I parked the Tucker when the trail down to the river got too narrow. We were gone a few hours and when we got back the Tucker battery was dead. But I just hooked up my second battery and away we went again.

After a couple hours on the internet I discovered that the red wire out of the top of the SI GM alternator, that everyone hooks up to the Batt terminal with the big battery lead, should actually go all the way to the battery itself. Otherwise the voltage drop in the system is not sensed by the alternator and the battery might only see 12.5 volts - which is too low for a good charge.
IMG_2808.JPG

Live and learn.
 
I was planning on taking the tracks off and installing rims and tires to get around on, but don't know what rims fit?
Anyone know what rims fit the 1544 style Tucker?

20230408_113108_resized.JPG
IMG_2304.JPG
IMG_2347.JPG
IMG_2456.JPG
IMG_2657.JPG
 
YDPC,

The axles and hubs on your Dana 60 axle assemblies look different in that the full floating axle flanges only have six bolts instead of eight. But assuming the bolt pattern for wheels is the standard pattern used for decades (8 holes on 6/12" diameter) any 8 lug wheel should bolt up. Tucker just used six of the eight wheel stud locations. I'm quite sure the thread on the studs is 12"-20.
 
BFT the six bolt drive axle is a very common tucker trait. If you get on snow grooming forums they are livid over the axle length and bolt circle tucker used. His wheel hubs if still the ones from tucker may only have 6 lug nuts as well. tucker was very wise making common parts unique back in the day.
 
redsqwrl said:
BFT the six bolt drive axle is a very common tucker trait. If you get on snow grooming forums they are livid over the axle length and bolt circle tucker used. His wheel hubs if still the ones from tucker may only have 6 lug nuts as well. tucker was very wise making common parts unique back in the day.
Click to expand...
Interesting....

While Dana sold axles to GM, Ford, Chrysler and IH, I suspect Tucker bought whatever version was the cheapest. All of the Tuckers I've owned have had the eight hole axle flanges. But I know that the axle tube diameters are different between 1980 and 1986. When it comes to Tucker, if you assume anything regarding parts commonality, you're taking a risk.
 
Tucker spec'd a 6 or 9 spline six bolt axle. Moser can't or won't make/ cut them due to licensing

Try to buy a meritor transfer case for a xl 2000 tucker. direct quote from the regional sales rep, "Yes we made it, yes it is used in concrete trucks in another trim package, no I can't sell you those parts."
 
Help!!
I’m stuck. What holds the track frame on the spindle?
I can move the frame about 1/8” in and out, but that’s it. I was expecting a lock nut or something, but not ???
Both sides are identical. Everything is in perfect condition too.

IMG_2916.jpeg
IMG_2915.jpeg
 
On the inside of the carrier there is a large snap-ring. Using snap-ring pliers, squeeze the ends together and then pull the snap ring away from the carrier. Once that's removed you can slide the carrier off the axle housing.
 
Okay thanks.
By "inside" you mean the tube end closest to the 5th wheel plate?
I didn't dig in there and clean the grease out, so that makes sense that there is something buried in the other side.
 
YamaDooPolCat said:
Okay thanks.
By "inside" you mean the tube end closest to the 5th wheel plate?
I didn't dig in there and clean the grease out, so that makes sense that there is something buried in the other side.
Click to expand...
correct between the spring and the carrier.

If its in a shitty spot just tap it around to your liking. I prefer them at the top 12 oclock
 
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