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1958 Tucker Sno Kitten Model 222 (Locke’s Ski Tow)

Looking for pics of what Tucker used for battery tie downs?

Think some had an angle iron frame that sat over the pattern but here I picture a washed welded to angler iron to fit the slot on the battery.
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We plan on installing a Pertronix Ignitor II 9LU-146LS in the Undercover Kitten. Also required will be resistive spark plug wires adapted to the Lucas distributor cap using the screw on terminals. They say it “should” work. Will carry a new set of points and a condenser in a ZipLoc bag just in case.
 
Electronic ignition failed. Likely cause was jumping on low battery because of flooding issue.

Powerspark send new module and new coil, wires.. Now have fat spark.

Two fuel pumps same issue of flooding. Got the engine running today with no pump hooked up.

Down to the float and needle valve/ needle valve adjustment. Float, needle valve and shims on the way.

Also have a oem rebuilt distributor, coil and wires to go back timeless!

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What is the pressure delivered by the fuel pump(s)? Older carbs usually require only two or three pounds psi. I use a cheap in-line regulator on several of my older carbs.
 
Back up and running. The inlet valve was aftermarket and tolerance was off.

Manual says to add fiber washers to adjust so ordered new solex valve with 2 shims.

Tried one shim for giggles still flooded added the second purring like a kitten.

Replaced the float while at it but that was fine.
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nice simple bracket, was your kitten 12 v in its new state.?

I have the same dilema, Im going bungee cord till i can make a proper angle iron frame. My 6 V battery doesn't have those sexy molded pockets
 
Few more parts to redo again the fuel system again.

The replacement pump has a different orientation for the inlet outlet that can easily be adjusted but allows better line clearance by the frame.

The one that came off came real close to the frame. This replacement might allow more clearance so I sourced a flexible pipe off off a 105E model with a 90 I need to make a little more angle on.

Fun fact is that Ford Anglia fuel pump ferrule fittings are 1/2” UNF England thread not 1/2-20 Ford thread found in New England. The 1/2-20 will work and is often interchanged but the threads don’t really like it.

Left is 1/2 UNF right is 1/2-20.
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I appreciate your content so don't take this a me poking ribs. but I have that exact carb on a kitten as well and I can't believe you don't have a leak at the screen ( glass prefilter ) on your carb. I tried to install the screen there as well but my rigs whitworth thread receives a banjo bolt, the bolt has a screen inside. I can't find a nipple like you have in there.
I wonder if some of the delivery issue for you might be a deformed base for the needle seat?
 
The fuel issue was the after market inlet valve. Tolerance was off. New solex one fixed it. My research for anglia flooding on solex said common issue add a fiber washer.

The glass bowl has a ceramic filter and rubber gasket I replaced. There is also a magnet in there. Some where back in this thread are the part number.

Guessing it’s a male 3/8 npt to male 3/8 npt between the carb and filter. And 3/8 inverted flare to the other side.
 
Right now I am defeated. Motor fires then floods. The pump is flooding the carb.

It’s as if the check valves in the carb aren’t working and this pump is a replacement. Going to try the OEM rebuild pump tomorrow.

I’m in the litter box on this one open to help!
 
I'd put a t in the fuel line and measure fuel pressure cranking and running. or fill carb with gas and deadhead a pressure tester on fuel line at carb end and run what gas is in carb till it runs out and check pressure. this is of course if can't find a t to install inline. this will let you know if it's a pressure problem or still a carb problem.
 
I think the pump spacer is wrong. Maybe Redsquirrrel or GMoose commented about this spacer issue if I recall.

They orig pump spacer was damaged so I sourced a new one which I think is 5/16 8mm for the 100e plastic. Orig was fiber or felt material.

Everything I’m reading says the pump I have should use an original 6mm or 1/4”. So the arm on the pump isn’t getting full stroke. I did change this and the problem began.

Ran on the Iv the other day to the pump but I started it with fuel off. Think when it’s running it can handle the flood but when starting it can’t.
 
Sled head has a good point, put a gauge on the output of the pump. pump it by hand to stall and see what you got.

It checks the check valve and output pressure

In the far out cat box region, ( out of the box thinking) I just serviced a military surplus tennico Air cooled 4cyl on a mobile lube station, part of my tucker chain-drive care and feeding exhibit (jk) the float was rubbing on the bowl randomly, due to swelling from alchohol. If I remeber right out floats are pretty tight in there..... wouldn;t that be a pisser?
 
The Solex carb uses a fuel enrichment system rather than a choke to start. our Kitten had trouble starting and running. Took the enrichment pod off and cleaned the plate inside. Then made sure the cable held the correct position according to instructions found on a British 100e forum.
 
Thought about putting this thing on eBay to preserve mental health after today.

For whatever reason fuel pressure is now a problem suddenly. Spoke with some experts and research has this issue. Obsolete Anglia in CA used the term Rube Goldberg and I knew I was in trouble.

Milled down spacer to correct 6mm. Multiples needles and seat washer combos. OE pump back on. New float flipped arm over. Carb is drowning.

I think the tank supply line can create a siphon effect also. So after sold half day of nonsense. Going to regulate the pressure.

If that doesn’t work going to put skis under it had have and actual kitten trailer behind the 1443!

WTF
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when it's flooding over is the fuel coming out of the venturi as drops or a mist? also the float chamber has to vented to the atmosphere. if flooding it should come through the atmospheric vent too unless it's plugged. just something else to look for. If not vented right carb will not work correctly.
 
Kitten is back running. What a long strange trip of events this problem was. Taking full ownership of stupidity or bad timing, thanks in advance for all the input that got resolution.

Around December 4th I jacked up the kitten to take a look underneath. I left it like that for awhile. Next time I tried to start it it was flooding out. Here I cranked it so much the battery died so I used my jump pack. The battery starter and ground cables were junk so I swapped in some temp ones I had sitting around for and continued the troubleshooting. Here I think I cooked the electronic ignition compounding the flooding issue.(This info would have been nice to have at the time.)

Convinced my fuel pump rebuild was bad I sourced a new pump and created the same condition of flooding. Next I started troubleshooting the ignition. New coil, wires, and found no spark. Turned out the ignition module was bad possibly from the jump starting maybe leaving the ignition on. New module arrived with new matching coil and wires. Here I get it back running but off the pump on iv gravity feed. Didn't run right though missing and excessive fuel.

Back into the carb, new float and NOS inlet needle with extra washer. This is believe was the actual issue but hadn't figured it out yet. Then into the choke which has been messed with by the different screws, broken air vent, and orientation was wrong in hindsight. Cleaned took it off back on. GMoose and the internet were helpful.

Now I am defeated again. Still thinking fuel pressure of pump. Machine down the spacer which was 2mm larger after some feed back from RedSquirrel and go back to original pump. 6mm is the correct on for this year. Same issues. Flooding. It always fires and dies. I check compression and tear into the ignition again checking firing order and plugs. Here #2 plug has no spark. Replaced all four plugs. Now as I crank it it runs on the starter and dies but runs fast.

Installed fuel pressure regulator after feedback from the Princess and internet same issue. Runs on the starter. Took the bowl and choke off dozen items swapped everything same issue. Runs fast on the starter. Soon as I let go of the starter died. WTF!

Spoke to Obsolete Anglia for awhile the other night he was stumped. His specialty is the pre 100E if that helps anybody.

Light bulb today thanks to the fresh SNO arriving! Why does it run so fast with throttle on the starter? While waiting for parts I replaced the batter cables placing the battery on the left and the starter on the right. Well turns out the were opposite originally so the ignition now was only getting power when depressing the starter.

So good news is I now have it figured out and all the parts I bought went over better with the wife because of how frustrated I appeared.

First tracks after 30 years tomorrow to celebrate!
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