It is so good to see your history attitude with the Mt. Washington cat and now the Locke's ski tow kitten. You have a priceless collection going Mr. TA. No cure in sight! The documentation is so important to make these machines come to life.
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1958 Tucker Sno Kitten Model 222 (Locke’s Ski Tow)
- Thread starter Track Addict
- Start date
I learn well from those before me.
Strategic East Cost Tucker Preserve!
Strategic East Cost Tucker Preserve!
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I would think the sno-Mo's were a hit in the high humidity areas, I see a clone when i squint while looking at the scrap pile....
Happy Cinco!
Schematics
Hijack not intended, Hey kitten people. Have a question about a nut / clamp on the clutch side of the working assembly.
If you look in the detail just above item numbered 5. you will see a bolt, clamp. it is tie wired in the image. I am servicing a kitten clutch and brake assembly. the shoe return springs are different left to right. the space * set * by that clamp on the shoe holder is also different.
my thought is this clamp is a rough assembly setup piece, ( not addressed in manual as it would only be adjusted if the drum was changed) I feel it allowed a varied tolerance to the machining of the drum.
so I call the brake shoes the clutch
the external band the brake.
I can't see a reason for two different length springs, the shorter spring side will over travel the brake shoes out of the ramp. with the longer spring the travel stops with the brake shoes in their respective runs. this condition lets the Stick have some predictable free play, I feel this would help the setting of the fulcrum to the ramp out by the bearing. I have only driven a hand full of kittens, and not one of them was the same in operation feel. after playing with these clutch brake deals, I can see why.
I love the learning and thanks Brian for posting those photos,
If you look in the detail just above item numbered 5. you will see a bolt, clamp. it is tie wired in the image. I am servicing a kitten clutch and brake assembly. the shoe return springs are different left to right. the space * set * by that clamp on the shoe holder is also different.
my thought is this clamp is a rough assembly setup piece, ( not addressed in manual as it would only be adjusted if the drum was changed) I feel it allowed a varied tolerance to the machining of the drum.
so I call the brake shoes the clutch
the external band the brake.
I can't see a reason for two different length springs, the shorter spring side will over travel the brake shoes out of the ramp. with the longer spring the travel stops with the brake shoes in their respective runs. this condition lets the Stick have some predictable free play, I feel this would help the setting of the fulcrum to the ramp out by the bearing. I have only driven a hand full of kittens, and not one of them was the same in operation feel. after playing with these clutch brake deals, I can see why.
I love the learning and thanks Brian for posting those photos,
Removed the rear ladder attachment which was in poor condition.
I left the angle that was added. On the last picture you can see the original tow bar hole was worn out from the down hill.
Have some vintage implements I intend to resurrect for show so will utilize what’s there. Welds are decent and will look worse to remove.
Fresh rear and and transmission fluid. Took it for a little cruise as well!
I left the angle that was added. On the last picture you can see the original tow bar hole was worn out from the down hill.
Have some vintage implements I intend to resurrect for show so will utilize what’s there. Welds are decent and will look worse to remove.
Fresh rear and and transmission fluid. Took it for a little cruise as well!
vintagebike
Well-known member
American and British like the 4th of July!
Out of summer slumber. Started right up but was starving for fuel on acceleration. Feared the luck of not rebuilding pump and carb had run out at the worst time.
Fuel didn’t seem to be flowing through the sediment bowl. Had a new ceramic filter yet to be installed. Pulled it apart. Cranked the motor and plenty of fuel was pumping.
This has a Carter Magna trap sediment bowl. There is a magnet in the top of the housing above the ceramic filter designed to catch the rust particles in steel fuel lines. Cleaned and reinstalled new gasket and filter running great. Carter part #30-82
Reattached and adjusted the choke cable.
Saturday Kitten is headed to a car show and back to its hometown of Amesbury Massachusetts for the first time since 1984!
Fuel didn’t seem to be flowing through the sediment bowl. Had a new ceramic filter yet to be installed. Pulled it apart. Cranked the motor and plenty of fuel was pumping.
This has a Carter Magna trap sediment bowl. There is a magnet in the top of the housing above the ceramic filter designed to catch the rust particles in steel fuel lines. Cleaned and reinstalled new gasket and filter running great. Carter part #30-82
Reattached and adjusted the choke cable.
Saturday Kitten is headed to a car show and back to its hometown of Amesbury Massachusetts for the first time since 1984!
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Cats and dogs?
Great event. Met many people who remember it, learned to ski with it, drove it, greased it, backed over by it, tried to buy it.
Absorbed a lot and the crowd loved it!
Absorbed a lot and the crowd loved it!
Been trying to figure out how to get the fuel pump out. It appeared that a pontoon needed to be removed to unbolt from the outside or exhaust intake removal from engine bay. Maybe motor removal?
Then I remember the springs fall out from the chassis moving up and down. Jacked the front up a little and there was my access from the outside right above the track with a socket and extension.
Rebuild pump this week then install. Will get to the carb right after.
This kitten motor has Ford Anglia mounts which use rubber and is unlike earlier. Sits on the lower frame rail where others were mounted to the upper frame rail solid with no isolation.
The frame at one time had the earlier style mounts I can see were removed. All the welds and paint match as being original.
My guess is they had frames already produced at this point and modified to this upgraded style. Other theory is this was a Sno Cat Corporation of New Hampshire upgrade.
Looking for pics of other 58 or newer to compare.
Then I remember the springs fall out from the chassis moving up and down. Jacked the front up a little and there was my access from the outside right above the track with a socket and extension.
Rebuild pump this week then install. Will get to the carb right after.
This kitten motor has Ford Anglia mounts which use rubber and is unlike earlier. Sits on the lower frame rail where others were mounted to the upper frame rail solid with no isolation.
The frame at one time had the earlier style mounts I can see were removed. All the welds and paint match as being original.
My guess is they had frames already produced at this point and modified to this upgraded style. Other theory is this was a Sno Cat Corporation of New Hampshire upgrade.
Looking for pics of other 58 or newer to compare.
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LakeTucker
Member
Text me tomorrow and remind me to take pics of my '60.
fwiw the 5mm spacer you have, controls your fuel pressure. if you don't have the 4-7 consider taking .030 off the plate. I learned this the hard way.
check the clearance of the #4 spark plug, I was told the motor mount help the plug from firing to the firewall.
check the clearance of the #4 spark plug, I was told the motor mount help the plug from firing to the firewall.
Been getting everything from across the pond: https://www.smallfordspares.co.uk/
My plug is far away from the firewall.
That spacer is what the manual refers to as an insulator on post 56 ish motors.
That spacer is what the manual refers to as an insulator on post 56 ish motors.
Here is what was found upon disassembly.
Surprised this thing moved fuel. Looks like pencils shavings or coffee ground like substance from the tank side. Will have to open it up a see what’s inside.
Surprised this thing moved fuel. Looks like pencils shavings or coffee ground like substance from the tank side. Will have to open it up a see what’s inside.
There were different engines in the Anglia over the years with different fuel pumps. These also used different mounting studs and spacers.
The earlier ones had a hand primer on the petrol pump and were fitted with a 6mm-1/4" spacer. Later ones around 1953 like this one used a 8mm-5/16" spacer. Some models of this motor in other cars used no spacer and a glass top bowl.
Kit only came with one gasket but the spacer required one on each side so will have to order another along with a new spacer. Gasket pretty stuck to this one on both sides.
The earlier ones had a hand primer on the petrol pump and were fitted with a 6mm-1/4" spacer. Later ones around 1953 like this one used a 8mm-5/16" spacer. Some models of this motor in other cars used no spacer and a glass top bowl.
Kit only came with one gasket but the spacer required one on each side so will have to order another along with a new spacer. Gasket pretty stuck to this one on both sides.
The oil seal around the diaphragm shaft was a source of oil leaks over the years.
The bottom of the pump is vented to atmosphere. In some instances oil would make its way into chamber and leak/blow out of the vent hole. Later they added a oil seal washer and a rubber gasket.
This kit uses a better rubber grommet that further improves the seal. Here I temp installed to illustrate old vs new.
The bottom of the pump is vented to atmosphere. In some instances oil would make its way into chamber and leak/blow out of the vent hole. Later they added a oil seal washer and a rubber gasket.
This kit uses a better rubber grommet that further improves the seal. Here I temp installed to illustrate old vs new.
Took the fuel sender which still works out for a look. Not too bad.
My synopsis is years of metal fuel cans, open fuel cans, run whatever fuel cans, brought the shells, wood chips, rust, and dirt I can see in the tank.
Will pump out the fuel again dry and vacuum.
My synopsis is years of metal fuel cans, open fuel cans, run whatever fuel cans, brought the shells, wood chips, rust, and dirt I can see in the tank.
Will pump out the fuel again dry and vacuum.
Tank drained pump rebuild. Working on sourcing a replacement fuel sender.
Question of the day.
Is the dodge cluster a 0-90 ohm or 10-73 ohm?
Is the dodge cluster a 0-90 ohm or 10-73 ohm?
Pretty close. Not sure what the gauge will do but appearance to OEM is pleasing so far.
Thanks for the find RRose!
Thanks for the find RRose!
Checked the front motor mounts. Passenger side tight and the driver was loose motor mount to motor and motor mount to frame mount.
Collecting a few more pieces. Tank all dried ready vacuum.
Collecting a few more pieces. Tank all dried ready vacuum.