looks like you have a few more parts to gathering up..........
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1958 Tucker Sno Kitten Model 222 (Locke’s Ski Tow)
- Thread starter Track Addict
- Start date
Motor is stuck from sitting. Took the starter out and drained down the antifreeze.
Soaking the hardware with PB blaster in preparation of removing the head to see what is next.
Soaking the hardware with PB blaster in preparation of removing the head to see what is next.
Carb off with sediment bowl. Those will be cleaned and rebuilt.
Water neck off. New thermostat and a flush looks appropriate so far.
Distributor stuck. More soaking. GMoose mentioned his was a challenge. Open to pointers.
Water neck off. New thermostat and a flush looks appropriate so far.
Distributor stuck. More soaking. GMoose mentioned his was a challenge. Open to pointers.
vintagebike
Well-known member
Few tweaks is all this Original specimen needs as well.
An Elf came to me and shared this wise proverb: “look past the stuck distributor to what is a head of you”.
Trick was to remove the head with the distributor attached.
I shocked all the bolts with a large snap center punch. Outer head bolts loosened quite easily. Middle 4 gave the sensation of oh no but broke free. Was able to lubricate and remove all successfully. Head came right off.
Cylinder walls look great. Little tapping and I can see it move. Going to let soak.
Drained the oil that looked very clean no signs of moisture.
Distributor can now soak from the bottom and top as I work on removal. The drive gear pin rotted which may have been an issue or would quickly become one. Rebuild while it’s out. The lower adapter came right out.
Looks like the makings of a runner!
An Elf came to me and shared this wise proverb: “look past the stuck distributor to what is a head of you”.
Trick was to remove the head with the distributor attached.
I shocked all the bolts with a large snap center punch. Outer head bolts loosened quite easily. Middle 4 gave the sensation of oh no but broke free. Was able to lubricate and remove all successfully. Head came right off.
Cylinder walls look great. Little tapping and I can see it move. Going to let soak.
Drained the oil that looked very clean no signs of moisture.
Distributor can now soak from the bottom and top as I work on removal. The drive gear pin rotted which may have been an issue or would quickly become one. Rebuild while it’s out. The lower adapter came right out.
Looks like the makings of a runner!
Would have never got this out or been able to adjust it with out removing the head. A good soak heat and tapping from the bottom set the distributor free.
Went fast! In addition the motor is unstuck free and turning nicely by hand.
Will marinate the open valves as I gather the assembly parts.
Will marinate the open valves as I gather the assembly parts.
Warm bowls of oil. First cleanup looks great.
Rotating soaking wiping tooth brushing. Intake is full of mystery oil. Copious amounts of pb blaster layered on continues.
Feels real good and free.
Rotating soaking wiping tooth brushing. Intake is full of mystery oil. Copious amounts of pb blaster layered on continues.
Feels real good and free.
Here is the engine serial number if anybody has the secret decoder ring as to age?
Almost 2.5” diameter
Attachments
Messing around today I was able to confirm the fuel pump works. Should be able to generate some oil pressure before firing.
Parts on the way from across the pond.
Parts on the way from across the pond.
vintagebike
Well-known member
Looks like our Kitten will be staying in McCall. Are there any Kittens still out there with reliable engine transplants? I remember one years sgo for sale with a Datsun 1200. Not sure if the Tucker drive train would be up to it or any of the increased power from the AquaPlane 100e speed parts from Small Ford Spares.
Attachments
Datsun Kitten is alive and well elsewhere in Massachusetts on its way to full recovery.
vintagebike
Well-known member
Full recovery meaning back to the 100e engine?
Datsun
Cleanup continues process. Notice one of the valves has been changed in life because it doesn't match the other seven. I recall the son mentioning something about the rear cylinder valve upon pickup.
Copper head gasket, new head bolts, thermostat, water neck gasket, carb rebuild kit, carb to base gasket, fuel pump rebuild kit, manual, 4 plugs, oil fiter/orings all due to arrive next week.
Small Ford Spares across the pond: https://www.smallfordspares.co.uk/
Kip Motors: https://www.kipmotor.com/
These have most of what is needed.
For now I sourced and aftermarket distributor. Plan is to have the stock one rebuilt which is a bit pricey and return to stock. For the purpose of getting it a runner and seeing what I have this was the temporary solution: https://simonbbc.com/ford-100e-300e-consul-4-cylinder-type-distributor/
Copper head gasket, new head bolts, thermostat, water neck gasket, carb rebuild kit, carb to base gasket, fuel pump rebuild kit, manual, 4 plugs, oil fiter/orings all due to arrive next week.
Small Ford Spares across the pond: https://www.smallfordspares.co.uk/
Kip Motors: https://www.kipmotor.com/
These have most of what is needed.
For now I sourced and aftermarket distributor. Plan is to have the stock one rebuilt which is a bit pricey and return to stock. For the purpose of getting it a runner and seeing what I have this was the temporary solution: https://simonbbc.com/ford-100e-300e-consul-4-cylinder-type-distributor/
Some thoughts and things I have experienced with my Kitten.
Spark plugs: Earlier I indicated that the valves were bumping on the bottom of the plugs, closing the gaps so I placed extra washers on the plugs to lift them slightly. 230Pilot reached out to me and indicated I should check to see if I have the correct plugs, they may be to long. I have not done this yet, I just put in the plugs that came from KIP when I bought my ignition parts. So it is possible I just have the wrong plugs, something to look into with yours. I have Champion L87YC installed.
Cold start: My kitten will not start when it is very cold unless I heat it up first using a lower radiator hose heater. I would recommend installing one of those, it has saved me many times. I had to heat it up every morning at Sun Valley just to get it running.
Carburetor: I rebuilt my Solex and reassembled it the same way it came apart. Well this was a mistake because it had been apart at some other time in it's life and the starter assembly (choke) was assembled incorrectly. I finally found a picture showing the correct orientation for the disks (#24 and #38) to be assembled, it is crucial the slots/holes are in the correct orientation. I have attached that here in case it can help.
Spark plugs: Earlier I indicated that the valves were bumping on the bottom of the plugs, closing the gaps so I placed extra washers on the plugs to lift them slightly. 230Pilot reached out to me and indicated I should check to see if I have the correct plugs, they may be to long. I have not done this yet, I just put in the plugs that came from KIP when I bought my ignition parts. So it is possible I just have the wrong plugs, something to look into with yours. I have Champion L87YC installed.
Cold start: My kitten will not start when it is very cold unless I heat it up first using a lower radiator hose heater. I would recommend installing one of those, it has saved me many times. I had to heat it up every morning at Sun Valley just to get it running.
Carburetor: I rebuilt my Solex and reassembled it the same way it came apart. Well this was a mistake because it had been apart at some other time in it's life and the starter assembly (choke) was assembled incorrectly. I finally found a picture showing the correct orientation for the disks (#24 and #38) to be assembled, it is crucial the slots/holes are in the correct orientation. I have attached that here in case it can help.
Thanks for the tips. Here are the plugs that came out of it. Champion RH10.
The going to start it with the carb and fuel pump as they came off. Don’t want to change too many variables at once.
I saw pilot 230 hand start his on cold morning in February. Wonder what causes the cold start issue?
The going to start it with the carb and fuel pump as they came off. Don’t want to change too many variables at once.
I saw pilot 230 hand start his on cold morning in February. Wonder what causes the cold start issue?
Also, engine lock up. When I purchase my Kitten the engine was locked up. What I found was the starter drive bound to the ring gear. Put a breaker bar, socket, and extension on the crank bolt and popped it free. I have also had it lock up a couple of time since. I have also seen another kitten do the exact same thing. So I carry the breaker bar setup with me just in case.
So the plugs that cam out of mine are R for resistor the H which is 14mm thread, 7/16 reach into the combustion chamber with 13/16 hex socket. 10 is for small engine.
Your plug is non resistor L=1/2” or .472 reach, 87 for industrial or special application, Y=standard nose projection, Ccopper plus electrode.
That extra 1/16 projection prob enough with some float to hit.
Your plug is non resistor L=1/2” or .472 reach, 87 for industrial or special application, Y=standard nose projection, Ccopper plus electrode.
That extra 1/16 projection prob enough with some float to hit.
It is possible I have the correct plugs and just weak valve springs, and as I am sure you witnessed at Sun Valley, we tend to push that kitten to the limit. I am sure we run it over the recommended RPMs. This may be my problem, but the extra washers has solved the gap closing problem.
Looks like you and 230 Pilot found my problem. Thanks a million!!!
The plugs that I got came from KIP for the 100e engine, looks like they are the wrong ones. I will try some RH10 plugs.
Think I got a set from them coming also. I’ll let you know what arrives.
One last thing on the carburetor rebuild. The issue with those disks is that they can go in front wise, back wise, or 180 degrees out, so that is why I blew up that one image so you can see the correct orientation. Just saying this because it was painful trying to figure out what the problem with mine was.
Was looking at the front view of your kitten, looks like the hood latch may have lost the push button and they replaced it with a wing nut. My kitten had the hood latch completely missing, so I reached out to Ryan Rose and he sent me the hood latch from his kitten so I can build one, which I have not gotten around to yet. So just in case you want to build a new push button, which looks like a freeze seal plug with a nut welded to it, here is a photo.
Yup little secret is they are the same button found on many tucker gas pedals. Pedals have a stud/bolt welded but some could also have bolt that thread in to the nut like pictured.
69 442 has one to scavenge but the 53 443 is missing one as well I need to source still.
69 442 has one to scavenge but the 53 443 is missing one as well I need to source still.
Chrysler part #117924 is a 1 5/8 freeze plug going back to the dodge 218 and Plymouth 201 before tucker times and into the lay 60’s. That flows with the Chrysler parts theme and is most likely the part base on the hood and pedals.
Great info! Have 5 NOS on the way and some to spare.
Great info! Have 5 NOS on the way and some to spare.
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