Please be sure to read the rules and adhere to them.
Some banned members have complained that they are not spammers. But they spammed us. Some even tried to redirect our members to other forums. Duh.
Be smart. Read the rules and adhere to them and we will all get along just fine. Cheers. :beer:
Link to the rules: https://www.forumsforums.com/threads/forum-rules-info.2974/
Was able to confirm a few items in the manual Pilot230 has.
Firing Order 1-2-4-3 (1 is the Front Cylinder)
Spark Plug should Champion Single Point 14mm (type L.10) .025 in/.635mm gap
Timing v notch on front pulley lines up with timing mark slot on front cover. The Large D on the distributor coupling should be pointing to #2 cylinder.
Got the timing figured out. I cleaned up the timing marks and added white paint to the v on the pulley. TDC could be out 180 so to confirm the distributor adapter is also offset.
Draw a line down the middle making 2 letter “D” one bigger than the other. I marked in white paint.
The Big D should point to the #2 spark plug. Make sure the rotor is pointing to #1 cylinder and plug wires clockwise 1 2 4 3.
Plan is to keep this as original as it came out of the barn so the stock distributor will be addressed in the future.
I will say this aftermarket solution has some upside. Less body shaft surface to bind, and oring to lock out moisture from above. What’s interesting is the manual states to make sure a vent slot is cut into the head. Thought it was and errant screwdriver mark but intentional.
Had to polish the head bore for a smooth fit. Final assembly requires a high temp synthetic waterproof grease smeared on the body.
There is also a starting point indicator mark on the head and a pointer on the distributor.
Pulled the oil filter out. No surprises there and no gunk sediment buildup.
Now prepping for reassembly. First order of business was how do I get the oil out of the intake pathway? I could see the level was high when the valve opened.
The respiratory therapist kicked in and I called for tracheal suction!
Got 100cc out and was able to drain the blind holes. Rest should blow out and I’m sure their is that much in the exhaust.
Great write up.
anglia obsolete in CA is a great resource. Dean has been great for me. was able to source a OEM distributor and AUX oil filter and a water pump. ( my 222 did not have any of those items when new. )
To time the anglia E98 you pull a bolt out of the front cover and put it in upside down. look to see if one of the upper bolts is different than the rest. many got broke off and i think i see a small boss sticking off one of yours.
Plugs from Kip were wrong ones. Waiting to hear back from them. In the meantime got a manual and confirms Champion H10.
Head surface cleaned. Head bolt holes tapped and clean. Light coat of oil on the cylinder walls and head bolts.
Smooth side of the gasket goes down. Dowel pin centers then you loosely thread the bolts.
Distributor has to be installed and aligned prior to head torque. Have to use the stock indicator bracket. Little more static timing to check before torquing down tomorow.
Major progress this weekend on the kitten! Now it’s officially a runner and moves under it’s own power.
Quick driveway test and the clutch gears steering all feels great!
Fresh 50w Valvoline VR1 racing oil with zinc and oil filter. Reused the plugs that were in it as I burn off the oil and everything else I soaked it with.
Drained out about 6 gallons of old gas. Was real clean and didn’t smell that bad. Must have been the good old stuff!
This pump called the Gas Tapper is a great tool. I recommend every shop have one. Refilled with 5 gallons ethanol free with a splash of stabil and some marvel mystery oil.
I didn’t want to change too many variables so the fuel pump, carb, and sediment bowl were used as they came off.
Used a photo tach to get the idle to around 600 rpm. After static timing the motor I dialed in the timing with the light per the manual. It says match the notch to the mark but the specs also say 5 degrees BTDC. Not sure if that at the mark but it runs good there for now.
The choke detent is missing so not totally sure of full off position Fuel system needs some more work and parts.
Exhaust system is full of marinade. Hoping it smokes less as I run it. May use some ring free which is a staple in the out board world.
The battery tray weld was broken so the ground was moved to the radiator at some point. Welded and returned the ground to the correct position. The battery smashed around in life adding some character to the side panel.
Temp gauge works. I filled the cooling system with water and will run a number of flush cycles before adding antifreeze back.
Fuel sender seems work. Unsure generator status and this motor has no oil pressure sender or light. Not sure if that was factory not?
The NOS Chrysler freeze plug/hood button/gas pedal arrived.
Temp plug wires need to be replaced as well as getting a new ceramic filter for the carter sediment bowl
FYI those Frost plugs work really well on the backside of rollers that have rubbed or been over greased. When I first saw them I though you were fixing rollers.