Measure the stock ones. The studs they are attached to is going to be smaller in diameter, that’s not a problem as you make bushings for them using poly tubing. Just pick a set on eBay that will fit it not bottomed out when retracted and will be longer when aired up. I think I ended up with a universal air shock from eBay.
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Suzuki mini truck on tracks
- Thread starter m1west
- Start date
I appreciate it. I don’t know very much about vehicles and the suspension. Just to confirm, do I measure the shock length with the rear end jacked up or sitting on the ground? I received my lift kit and springs, this is the final piece of the puzzle that I need to order. Hopefully install next weekend!
Don Coyote
Active member
I've not been part of this conversation and don't know the specifics..... but "in general": measure the shock distance with it sitting on the ground.
The leaf springs (or torsion bars) provide all the suspension ... and the shocks simply provide a smooth ride over bumps. With the vehicle on the ground, the suspension travel upward or downward ought to be the same distance. You want your shocks to rest in that center space.
Probably the best way would be to pull the shock off and measure both compressed and extended, choosing an air shock that is close in measurements or slightly longer, just make sure it’s not going to bottom out, ther should be a little shock rod stocking out of the shock body when is on the ground supporting its own weight.
I’m attempting to put in the 3 inch lift and I cannot get the bolts on the bottom of the strut in. I changed out the springs and added the strut extension for the lift but now I cannot get both bolts in on the bottom of the strut. I’m able to get one side bolted up but cannot get both bolts in on the opposite side. I can only get the bottom bolt in on the opposite side. Any ideas to possible solutions would be great.
I also noticed when I unbolted, and dropped the front diff, it pushed hard to the passenger side. A lot of pressure. So hard that it was a pain to get back in the bracket afterwords. I only attempted to drop it because I plan to in the future to improve the cv axle angles and thought it may help with the strut/bolt problem. It didn’t. I also got measurements for the brackets I will have to fab up. Is this pressure normal?
I also noticed when I unbolted, and dropped the front diff, it pushed hard to the passenger side. A lot of pressure. So hard that it was a pain to get back in the bracket afterwords. I only attempted to drop it because I plan to in the future to improve the cv axle angles and thought it may help with the strut/bolt problem. It didn’t. I also got measurements for the brackets I will have to fab up. Is this pressure normal?
I think I’m understanding, when I did mine, I think I bolted up the bottom of the strut first then used it as a lever arm to get into position at the top. It’s been a few years. If this doesn’t help, post a few pictures.
Can you compress the spring a little to give you room to get the top in?
I would have to buy new spring compressor as mine is too large, but that is an option.
Hate to say it but depending on how gutsy you are. Heavy duty zip ties have put many springs on for me. It takes a bunch I.e 10 to 15 per spring. But for those small springs, I've never found a spring compressor that fit them well..
I might have to give this a go
I made a 2” lift and installed it yesterday but get bad binding. I’m curious if I messed up the cv axle trying to get the 3” lift on. Is there an easy way to tell if the cv axle is bad? Do I try dropping the front diff or take cv axle out?
Yea that doesn’t sound good, you may have had a bad one going in, how is the other side?
The other side seems fine. The passenger is the side giving me problem. Would you suggest taking the cv axle out and checking it out? I’m not really sure what I’m looking for, but if something is broken I should be able to spot it.
Can you slide the rubber boot out of the way. Then you can inspect it and take the appropriate action, I think it will have a band around it that’s crimped, try to in crimp it, or cut it off being careful not to cut the boot, it can be replaced with a band clamp or even a big tie wrap. If your installing tracks, you don’t need weak axels.
So, I think I got it figured out. The cv axle in question looks fine. I dropped the diff 1” and it seems to have gotten rid of the binding. My first test drive I had a rhythmic clunking going on. Parked back in garage and was pretty irritated. Said screw it and took it for another drive. Clunking was there and eventually seemed to go away. I’ll post video of cv and clunking. Now my hunt for wheels and tracks. Didn’t realize rims and tires would be so hard to find.