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Picked up another project

While waiting on the parts needed to finish the injection pump modifications i fit the valve cover by milling out the area on the front to clear the studs. Then removed the old powder coating, sanded the rough casting, especially around the flange. Used a whole bag of sand with a blaster to get the old coating off, powder coat is tuff.
I have to work a few days in the field starting Monday, then we will see what kind of 2 color powder coater I am.
The letters and fins will be gloss black and the rest of it Area 51 like the tappet cover.
 
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After lunch today I finally had some extra time so I powder coated the valve cover. Took me 3 hours, the black was easy but the Area 51 had to be blown off and re done 3 times until I could keep myself from brushing it with my hand while wiping off the lettering to show the black, it turned out nice in the end, but there was profanity.
 
Started the injection pump modifications.
1- aftermarket rack plug to allow more rack travel for more fuel.
2- aftermarket 4000 rpm governor springs, pretty simple first measure from the top spring seat to the stud, remove all the springs, shims and lower spring seat, re install the idol spring and shim then the new lower spring seat without shims and then the new spring pack, using the original top spring cap and wave nut, setting it back to the recorded measurement, now it will fuel to about 3750 rpm.
3- you have to turn the pump to get the governor springs in the port to remove them, the bottom picture is hard to see, but there is a timing port that you line up a little spade in the center of the port, to check to see if it’s perfectly aligned there is a plastic key under the cap that you flip around and insert in the hole under the cap, if it slides in, your timed to the factory setting. Factory is 14 degrees btdc. My next move is to install the pump and advance the timing to 22 degrees btdc.
 
One more thing I installed was the remoted oil feed line fitting, it takes a special fitting when you do that that has a restricted .060 hole.
 
Installed the injection pump with the adjustable gear, had to trim the throttle shaft to get it to fit, tight fit. Tomorrow I will time it.
 
This morning I set the timing, the OEM advance built into the pump is 12 degrees, I added 8 degrees for a total of 20 degrees, 2 degrees will be nulified by the 24 valve injectors due to a higher crack pressure than the 12 valve. Doesn’t hurt anything but it effectively retards the timing 2 degrees, so the engine will realize 18 degrees and that’s the perfect balance of added power, drive ability and starting in cold weather, some run as much as 40 degrees in a race truck. After lunch I have to go get some loctite so the bolts don’t loosen or fall out. Still need to do the delivery valves and the AFC modifications , adding an attitude adjuster for on the fly tuning, in conjunction with an exhaust temperature guage.
 
Today I installed the new 40 hp injectors ( they are called 40 hp injectors because without any other modifications they will add 40 hp} and cross tubes, I didn’t tighten anything because I need to install the performance delivery valves before the injection lines.
 
One thing I found out is that the factory advance in the injection pump is all over the place. The 24 valve that’s in the doner truck says 14 degrees on the data plate, I called Pensacola injection where i bought the pump and they said mine is 12 degrees and the 12 valve that’s going in the hauler says 12.5 degrees. Glad I called the rebuilder that did the pump rather than going off a data plate on another engine.
 
Today I was on the home stretch, went to change the delivery valves out to performance 023 delivery valves. Pulled off the first holder and pulled the dv with a magnet stick and it was gritty, #2 was worse as evidenced on the picture of it on my finger. Called the rebuilder Pensacola injection, they said send it back but WTF. If I had just put it on the way it came, it would have ruined at least a new set of injectors plus whatever else. Had to put the factory governor springs back in and the rack plug. Imagine it will be a month or so detour.
 
I wish I had your knowledge of engines. I farm and it would come in handy to do that kind of work, but fortunately have never had much engine trouble so not really worth trying to learn it. Have decent knowledge of it but not enough for rebuilding. The thing about farming is you need to a bit about a lot of different things.
 
Kevlar said:
I wish I had your knowledge of engines. I farm and it would come in handy to do that kind of work, but fortunately have never had much engine trouble so not really worth trying to learn it. Have decent knowledge of it but not enough for rebuilding. The thing about farming is you need to a bit about a lot of different things.
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The rebuilding is not as difficult as you think, a little research on the engine you rebuild, keep it clean and try not to have extra parts or bolts when done. My first rebuilds were 2 stroke motorcycle engines I blew up in the 1970’s as a kid out of necessity. Same when I was racing a marathon boat. Built many engines and only one catastrophic failure, a methanol injected supercharged Donovan 417 hemi, didn’t get enough heat in the oil, resulted in the bottom end failure with rods exiting out the side and bottom.
 
Update, the injection pump is on the way back from the rebuilder again, they tore it down, cleaned it, inspected the parts, re assembled it then ran it on a flow bench it was sent out to me Thursday, so I should see it next week sometime. I got an apology and no charge, I didn’t rub it in as even though I just installed it, it was out of warranty, but obvious that it was never ran on an engine. I’m just glad I caught it before I ran it and ruined everything.
Also I was getting ready to sand blast the paint off the new oil pan when I noticed it would go on either way and I didn’t need a new pan, just the pick up tube, that said I cleaned the old pan, it has some type of coating that doesn’t come off with hot oil, epoxie paint? The pan is a heavier material and OE so that problem is solved.
I’m going to wait to put it on incase I get butter fingers installing the injection pump again.
 
Melensdad said:
I'm guessing a BOAT
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Yes. Picked up another Cougar. A 42 foot 1of1 prototype that was used in the Caymans for many years. Sitting in Florida for a number of years unused. Had 850 hp diesels with Arneson drives and it did 130 with that config.
We are thinking 1000 hp with BPM drives.
Plain Vanilla gets done first.
This one will be 100% my kids boat for us in Florida.
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waybomb said:
Yes. Picked up another Cougar. A 42 foot 1of1 prototype that was used in the Caymans for many years. Sitting in Florida for a number of years unused. Had 850 hp diesels with Arneson drives and it did 130 with that config.
We are thinking 1000 hp with BPM drives.
Plain Vanilla gets done first.
This one will be 100% my kids boat for us in Florida.
View attachment 189593View attachment 189594
Click to expand...

Might want to drag that through the car wash :poke:
 
If you don’t have your engines yet, I would choose 24 valve over 12 valve if available for a decent price, then do a p pump conversion like my build. If you think you will want more than 1000 hp later, O ring the head with a receiver groove in the block. And don’t use the 53 block. About the only difference between my build and yours is the O ringed head, the correct compound turbo setup, bigger injectors and delivery valves. 1000 hp is still conservative with these engines if your fuel system and air are right.
 
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