1boringguy
Well-known member
True all that. You would have to be buried up over the tracks. First order of business would have to be to dig an airway out the back of the pipes for sure.
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1975 Tucker 1544 - project and trips
- Thread starter YamaDooPolCat
- Start date
I am going to have the muffler shop install dual pipes, and if there is an issue with the exhaust being a concern,
I can run the exhaust up the back of the cargo box to the roof.
It is sure nice putting parts on the Tucker instead of taking parts off.
![image1[15].jpeg](https://www.forumsforums.com/attachments/image1-15-jpeg.160168/ "image1[15].jpeg")
![image0[15].jpeg](https://www.forumsforums.com/attachments/image0-15-jpeg.160169/ "image0[15].jpeg")
![image2[12].jpeg](https://www.forumsforums.com/attachments/image2-12-jpeg.160170/ "image2[12].jpeg")
For what it's worth, with Puti-Zilla it was decided to go with dual exhaust out the back. As Track Addict explained, one has to be careful how the pipes are routed so a track can't hit the exhaust. Here are a couple of pics of that installation:
But, your system would be different as the lower truss frame on this machine is straight and I believe yours is hourglass shaped. (It's likely we will have to add some heat shields to the system, but at this point we haven't determined where that will be necessary.)
1boringguy
Well-known member
Yup that will work just fine for me.
I installed an electronic regulator and electronic distributor and Dodge park/neutral safety start switch solenoid with wiring out of a 1988 Dodge 318 that had a standard tranny, so lots of parts hunting and mix and match. I hooked up the battery - and no smoking wires so that is good.
I was wondering about doing away with the carburetor and going with Throttle Body Injection on my 318 engine. I did a search but didn't come up with much info. Any feed back on that idea?
Mctucker
Member
I can’t say from personal experience, but a guy I met has a 318 in his tucker and just did the sniper efi kit and says it is well worth the money, he really was glad he did the upgrade.
I'll have to phone Sniper during the week and see if they have a kit for two barrel manifold.
Filled the hydraulic tank today. The new sight gauge on the tank does it's job, but I welded the flange in the wrong place. The sight gauge should be welded on closer to the firewall and then it won't interfere with the hood.
Installed some sound deadening HushMat today. That stuff is very sticky and have to plan ahead, when you peal the backing off it is going to stick to the first thing it touches!
I think you'll be amazed at the difference that stuff makes. We use a different product, but same concept. We pretty much lined the entire cab with the stuff: floors, doors, kick panels, back panel, roof and firewall. Worth the time and money spent.
Incidentally, it looks like your door hinges are the model that use small plastic flanged bushings. Those tend to wear out over time. Are yours in good shape?
These hinges have the pins welded, so it doesn't look like there was any bushing of any sort.
The hinge pins don't seem to be too bad, other than needing oiling,
The hinge pins don't seem to be too bad, other than needing oiling,
Busy last couple days on Tucker.
- I need the swing on the throttle linkage to the shift down line pressure to match the length on the 727, so made up some spacer blocks to raise the carburetor to get that swing clearance.
- But ... the switch on the drill pressure quit working. I finally located probably the last replacement swith in Prince George - the USA based company will not supply parts to their dealers any more. Interesting?
- I decided the new sight glass i welded into the oil tank protruded too much and will always be a problem for the hood. So picked up another weldable flange, and Allen key plug for the first insert. Dumped the oil out of the tank (managed to make a big mess to clean up) and cut a new hole, then after filing and de-burring I had to clean the tank again before welding in the new insert.
- Bolted in temporary exhaust dump pipes so the flame doesn't burn anything before I can take the Tucker to the exhaust shop.
- Sorted out some headlight issues whie waiting for the paint to dry on the newly welded oil tank.
- Finally got to the point where I can try a start on the engine. I had replaced the points distributor for an electronic unit, replaced the mechanical regulator with a 1990 solid state unit, wired in a relay for clean power for the new fangled distributor, wired in a lock out so the Tucker will only start when the transmission is in neutral or park, changed the coil for a non resistor type, and hit the start key.
How's the moderator on the site as far as swearing?
- I need the swing on the throttle linkage to the shift down line pressure to match the length on the 727, so made up some spacer blocks to raise the carburetor to get that swing clearance.
- But ... the switch on the drill pressure quit working. I finally located probably the last replacement swith in Prince George - the USA based company will not supply parts to their dealers any more. Interesting?
- I decided the new sight glass i welded into the oil tank protruded too much and will always be a problem for the hood. So picked up another weldable flange, and Allen key plug for the first insert. Dumped the oil out of the tank (managed to make a big mess to clean up) and cut a new hole, then after filing and de-burring I had to clean the tank again before welding in the new insert.
- Bolted in temporary exhaust dump pipes so the flame doesn't burn anything before I can take the Tucker to the exhaust shop.
- Sorted out some headlight issues whie waiting for the paint to dry on the newly welded oil tank.
- Finally got to the point where I can try a start on the engine. I had replaced the points distributor for an electronic unit, replaced the mechanical regulator with a 1990 solid state unit, wired in a relay for clean power for the new fangled distributor, wired in a lock out so the Tucker will only start when the transmission is in neutral or park, changed the coil for a non resistor type, and hit the start key.
How's the moderator on the site as far as swearing?
After removing one too many grounds to the negative side of the coil the 318 started to fire. Bought some new plugs, but without the choke hooked up it would not stay running.
I was working on putting in a new cable (longer) when the phone rang and a buddy offered me his Holley Sniper 550-849K for throttle body EFI. His own project won't be ready for the EFI for a month or two, so I just have to order another EFI kit for him.
Might as well dive right in!
Bought a pocket full of brass fittings. Carburetor is off, fuel pump is off, plumbed into vent line for return fuel, bolted in filters and high pressure pump, working on adapter plate.
I'll make a temporary O2 plug in one of the stubby exhausts until I can get the Tucker down to the pipe shop.
Tomorrow is wiring - grrrrrr!!
I was working on putting in a new cable (longer) when the phone rang and a buddy offered me his Holley Sniper 550-849K for throttle body EFI. His own project won't be ready for the EFI for a month or two, so I just have to order another EFI kit for him.
Might as well dive right in!
Bought a pocket full of brass fittings. Carburetor is off, fuel pump is off, plumbed into vent line for return fuel, bolted in filters and high pressure pump, working on adapter plate.
I'll make a temporary O2 plug in one of the stubby exhausts until I can get the Tucker down to the pipe shop.
Tomorrow is wiring - grrrrrr!!
It runs with the Sniper kit but with open exhaust the O2 leaves the engine full rich. The NO’s make your eyes water.
Got the charging system working.
I raised the battery 4” to get it away from the heat of the exhaust manifold.
I pulled the brake/clutch master cylinder off for the 5th time trying to get the clutch side to stop leaking onto the floor of the cab. It is dry this morning so far.
Got the charging system working.
I raised the battery 4” to get it away from the heat of the exhaust manifold.
I pulled the brake/clutch master cylinder off for the 5th time trying to get the clutch side to stop leaking onto the floor of the cab. It is dry this morning so far.
Turned 70 at the end of January.. Had a good party.
Naturally Tucker was a subject.
Pretty cool.
Naturally Tucker was a subject.
Pretty cool.
The Tucker is at the exhaust install shop. And again it is one of those precious and disappearing "old guys" that stepped up to the plate to do the fabrication.
He built his own shop after retiring several years ago, and I'm happy to find him.
We are going to make a single exhaust the tail pipe go up the passenger side so I don't have to stand in the fumes when at the back end. Looking forward to see what he come up with.
He built his own shop after retiring several years ago, and I'm happy to find him.
We are going to make a single exhaust the tail pipe go up the passenger side so I don't have to stand in the fumes when at the back end. Looking forward to see what he come up with.
There is a Tucker 1342me for sale locally. How are these models in deep snow? Any know issues to watch for?
1750hours. Rear heated cab (4 years old)
8 way blade
Allison 4speed transmission
360 Chrysler industrial engine
New water pump fuel pump
Carburetor fuel tank brake caliper and pads
Rear hydraulics
Couple new hose’s recently
Roof rack
Full green strobes
Surround lighting
Caterpillar air ride driver seat
Caterpillar high back bucket pass seat
Burns between 4-6 gallons/hour depending on load
Undercarriage in decent shape.
Couple drivers could be recovered but work as is.
1750hours. Rear heated cab (4 years old)
8 way blade
Allison 4speed transmission
360 Chrysler industrial engine
New water pump fuel pump
Carburetor fuel tank brake caliper and pads
Rear hydraulics
Couple new hose’s recently
Roof rack
Full green strobes
Surround lighting
Caterpillar air ride driver seat
Caterpillar high back bucket pass seat
Burns between 4-6 gallons/hour depending on load
Undercarriage in decent shape.
Couple drivers could be recovered but work as is.
TurboCobra
New member
Lee, I just sent you an email regarding this post...
You might reach out directly to forum member Lake Tucker. I think he has an ME machine and can provide first-hand information.
The UHMW track slides and modular de-icer wheels with replaceable UHMW rings suggest a seventies to early eighties vintage, but those grousers look like a later design.
For what it's worth, those rings are no longer available from Tucker. I think forum member Rob Miller (Mill666er) made some for himself and he'd be a great resource for information (Helluva nice guy, too.)
The UHMW track slides and modular de-icer wheels with replaceable UHMW rings suggest a seventies to early eighties vintage, but those grousers look like a later design.
For what it's worth, those rings are no longer available from Tucker. I think forum member Rob Miller (Mill666er) made some for himself and he'd be a great resource for information (Helluva nice guy, too.)
Muffler system is done. I pick up the Tucker tomorrow.
The blade system was in such dreadful condition I had to do something to get through the winter.
Replaced the main horizontal pin with a proper bushing and new pin. Replaced the vertical axis pin, which means I had to cut the back of the blade open. And welded up some cracks that developed as a result of the excess play. With too much play in the pins the blade is subjected to forces like a drop hammer and makes needless damage to the rest of the blade parts.
Replaced the main horizontal pin with a proper bushing and new pin. Replaced the vertical axis pin, which means I had to cut the back of the blade open. And welded up some cracks that developed as a result of the excess play. With too much play in the pins the blade is subjected to forces like a drop hammer and makes needless damage to the rest of the blade parts.
Random pictures from last week on Tucker.
First time working with EFI install.
I bought the Holley Sniper 2bbl kit that comes with fuel pump, hoses, fittings, wiring, filters etc. for complete install.
I removed the engine driven fuel pump and bolted on a blank. I used the original fuel line as the return line and pumped it into the top of the tank.
I bought a better pre-filter with a glass bottom as I will no doubt get water in the fuel tank eventually.
It is a pretty good kit and the install went well.
Then the EDUCATION started.
The darn engine just would not run properly. After much head scratching and phone calls and a few beers with a great mechanic, we decided the O2 sensor was bad. When I unplugged the O2 sensor the screen would detect that the O2 was unplugged, so the EFI knew there was an O2 sensor there.
I was able to borrow an O2 sensor from an identical kit, and installed this with great expectations.
Well that fix cured exactly nothing.
The red on the screen was saying 35.6 which is full lean, so the EFI was dumping the fuel into the engine and the smoke coming put the exhaust was so black it looked like a wild diesel engine exhaust.
Since I had access to this other kit (and another day goes by) I swapped out the EFI body. It is a simple bolt down, swap fuel lines, and plug in the wires swap over.
And lo and behold the the EFI now reads the O2 sensor!
I bought the Holley Sniper 2bbl kit that comes with fuel pump, hoses, fittings, wiring, filters etc. for complete install.
I removed the engine driven fuel pump and bolted on a blank. I used the original fuel line as the return line and pumped it into the top of the tank.
I bought a better pre-filter with a glass bottom as I will no doubt get water in the fuel tank eventually.
It is a pretty good kit and the install went well.
Then the EDUCATION started.
The darn engine just would not run properly. After much head scratching and phone calls and a few beers with a great mechanic, we decided the O2 sensor was bad. When I unplugged the O2 sensor the screen would detect that the O2 was unplugged, so the EFI knew there was an O2 sensor there.
I was able to borrow an O2 sensor from an identical kit, and installed this with great expectations.
Well that fix cured exactly nothing.
The red on the screen was saying 35.6 which is full lean, so the EFI was dumping the fuel into the engine and the smoke coming put the exhaust was so black it looked like a wild diesel engine exhaust.
Since I had access to this other kit (and another day goes by) I swapped out the EFI body. It is a simple bolt down, swap fuel lines, and plug in the wires swap over.
And lo and behold the the EFI now reads the O2 sensor!
This education is not over yet folks.
The engine continues to act erratic, hunting and quitting.
Over a few more beers and war stories I hear about what electrical interference like EMF pulses can do to an EFI engine.
The Holley Sniper instructions said NOT to hook up the pink wire to the coil for constant power when the key is on, and when cranking for start. Thus I had faithfully hooked up the pink wire to the coil. It made sense at the time as this was an on and crank power terminal.
Upon re-reading this instruction again I pulled the pink wire off the coil and connected up the pink wire to the ignition switch terminal which was hot for start and run.
This all took lots of time.
And then the engine still ran like crap.
The Holley Sniper wiring harness is made to fit all sorts of engines and the various manufacturers setups. So on the 7 pin connector there is a twisted pair that is used to control the engine timing (advance) on some applications. Since my application doesn't use this connection it is left unplugged and was sitting above the coil. Ya, that twisted pair was picking up EMF from the coil and sends codes to the EFI, even though the wires are open ended. I noticed that when I lifted that twisted pair away from the coil the engine smoothed right out. So the instruction state that if in any particular application wires are not required, then you might pull then entirely out of the connector, which I then did.
Perfect right? Ya, not so fast.
While the engine was running, and much better, the O2 was reading, and the idle was getting better, the engine would still do weird bumps, the monitor would flash red - no data - and the engine would quit.
By now I'm pretty sure the EFI is still getting bad signal or inductance somehow, somewhere.
I tried wrapping the pink wire in aluminum foil as an EMF shield, but that made the engine stumble worse, until I pulled the pink wire out of the foil entirely, and then the engine ran better. So now what?
I tried moving the pink wire around to avoid the interference, but could not find a complete cure for the engine stumble.
To start I switch on the ignition key to the Run position and the fuel pump starts it's routine and the monitor screen comes to life. However, I noticed that when I then turned to the crank position on the ignition switch, that the monitor screen would go back to blank and start initialing over again. That meant the continuous power at the ignition switch was not all that continuous after all. The ignition switch looks original, so it might be al ittle worn. Therefor I needed a better power source for this fussy EFI.
When I installed the electronic distributor it also wanted clean uninterrupted power during crank and run. I installed a relay that was recommended to do just that. I checked the power out of that relay and it worked as advertised, there was power uninterrupted for run and start.
I spliced into that distributors power wire for power to the pink EFI wire. and then tried going from ignition on, and then to start, and watched the EFI monitor. That was the cure to that glitch, no more re- initializing when going for ignition on to start and the EFI was now getting clean power.
Every little step seems to be an improvement, but now I have to wait and run the engine through it's paces so that the EFI can learn what the engine likes and doesn't like.
I hope this EFI is worth the misery.
The engine continues to act erratic, hunting and quitting.
Over a few more beers and war stories I hear about what electrical interference like EMF pulses can do to an EFI engine.
The Holley Sniper instructions said NOT to hook up the pink wire to the coil for constant power when the key is on, and when cranking for start. Thus I had faithfully hooked up the pink wire to the coil. It made sense at the time as this was an on and crank power terminal.
Upon re-reading this instruction again I pulled the pink wire off the coil and connected up the pink wire to the ignition switch terminal which was hot for start and run.
This all took lots of time.
And then the engine still ran like crap.
The Holley Sniper wiring harness is made to fit all sorts of engines and the various manufacturers setups. So on the 7 pin connector there is a twisted pair that is used to control the engine timing (advance) on some applications. Since my application doesn't use this connection it is left unplugged and was sitting above the coil. Ya, that twisted pair was picking up EMF from the coil and sends codes to the EFI, even though the wires are open ended. I noticed that when I lifted that twisted pair away from the coil the engine smoothed right out. So the instruction state that if in any particular application wires are not required, then you might pull then entirely out of the connector, which I then did.
Perfect right? Ya, not so fast.
While the engine was running, and much better, the O2 was reading, and the idle was getting better, the engine would still do weird bumps, the monitor would flash red - no data - and the engine would quit.
By now I'm pretty sure the EFI is still getting bad signal or inductance somehow, somewhere.
I tried wrapping the pink wire in aluminum foil as an EMF shield, but that made the engine stumble worse, until I pulled the pink wire out of the foil entirely, and then the engine ran better. So now what?
I tried moving the pink wire around to avoid the interference, but could not find a complete cure for the engine stumble.
To start I switch on the ignition key to the Run position and the fuel pump starts it's routine and the monitor screen comes to life. However, I noticed that when I then turned to the crank position on the ignition switch, that the monitor screen would go back to blank and start initialing over again. That meant the continuous power at the ignition switch was not all that continuous after all. The ignition switch looks original, so it might be al ittle worn. Therefor I needed a better power source for this fussy EFI.
When I installed the electronic distributor it also wanted clean uninterrupted power during crank and run. I installed a relay that was recommended to do just that. I checked the power out of that relay and it worked as advertised, there was power uninterrupted for run and start.
I spliced into that distributors power wire for power to the pink EFI wire. and then tried going from ignition on, and then to start, and watched the EFI monitor. That was the cure to that glitch, no more re- initializing when going for ignition on to start and the EFI was now getting clean power.
Every little step seems to be an improvement, but now I have to wait and run the engine through it's paces so that the EFI can learn what the engine likes and doesn't like.
I hope this EFI is worth the misery.
Heading out east on 160km round trip tomorrow. Might as well see if all this work I put in on the Tucker can make it down the trail.