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1973 Tucker Sno Cat 1443 New to Me
- Thread starter Track Addict
- Start date
Track Addict
Bronze Member
Rest of kitten living NH lake life with Pilot230 with wide pontoon under it.
pontoons are on quarrintine
pontoons are on quarrintine
Track Addict
Bronze Member
Got the piston and hoses back. Even came with a fresh coat of not close enough orange paint. Mocked up real quick and I don't think there is enough clearance to fit a lock bolt like the front. The amount of movement is also minimal compared to the front. Where the lock bolt would fit is at an odd angle and offset to the center.
This got me rethinking the front pin for modification. That front lock bolt is taking up any front to back slack and is now absorbing all the force from the ram. As much as I improved a situation I have now created an unintended problem.
The solution is to mill out a recess in the pin to prevent rotation but allow the front to back forces to be applied to the pivot surface evenly. This will add a little more play back in but it the correct move by thinking above.
The location of the rear lock bolt will force the pin up at and angle also transmitting pressure to the bolt but in an odd way. First pass looks like grease pin will be the only upgrade. Still better than nothing. Once I can get some time to install and cycle I will confirm.
This got me rethinking the front pin for modification. That front lock bolt is taking up any front to back slack and is now absorbing all the force from the ram. As much as I improved a situation I have now created an unintended problem.
The solution is to mill out a recess in the pin to prevent rotation but allow the front to back forces to be applied to the pivot surface evenly. This will add a little more play back in but it the correct move by thinking above.
The location of the rear lock bolt will force the pin up at and angle also transmitting pressure to the bolt but in an odd way. First pass looks like grease pin will be the only upgrade. Still better than nothing. Once I can get some time to install and cycle I will confirm.
So I'm gonna chime in with my 2C. As with so many rebuilds here trying to achieve perfection (you're closer than most) it did survive as built since 1973. With the improvements you have made, leave copious notes for your grandchildren as to what will need to be attended to before they pass it on to their kids.
Track Addict
Bronze Member
Mocked up. No clearance where I would like to pin the rear pin. J Tucker and I did mill out a recess for the front pin lock. Problem solved.
Not much motion in the back so taking Cidertom's advice. I left a note here and we machined up a grease pin upgrade. Will spin some grease grooves before install.
Kindergartener helped with the clevis wear pins machining. Close enough for him close enough for me.
Should have it all hooked up by the weeks end then on to the tie rods.
Not much motion in the back so taking Cidertom's advice. I left a note here and we machined up a grease pin upgrade. Will spin some grease grooves before install.
Kindergartener helped with the clevis wear pins machining. Close enough for him close enough for me.
Should have it all hooked up by the weeks end then on to the tie rods.
Track Addict
Bronze Member
sno-drifter
Bronze Member
You are quite the craftsman Mr. T&A. And the thinker too.
Track Addict
Bronze Member
Hydraulic system back together. No leaks!
Was able to reroute one of the piston lines cleaner. All centered ready for the tie rods.
Originals going back in later. Few odds and ends to wrap up.
Bunch of wet sno coming for some testing tomorrow!
Was able to reroute one of the piston lines cleaner. All centered ready for the tie rods.
Originals going back in later. Few odds and ends to wrap up.
Bunch of wet sno coming for some testing tomorrow!
Blackfoot Tucker
Well-known member
Nice work! You definitely get style points for the improvements you made to the original design.
Track Addict
Bronze Member
This is an illustration of what happens when a tie rod breaks.
In this depiction the rear failed and possibly is a male cat or a transfer case...
In this depiction the rear failed and possibly is a male cat or a transfer case...
Track Addict
Bronze Member
New Tie Rods all primed. Big thanks to Davenet for the ingredients. Turns out our tie rod tubes were the same sizes.
These are a heavier wall tube and has a bit more thread on the tie end. Off the shelf parts solutions. I'll gather the part numbers later.
We cut and welded these. Access to a big enough pass through lathe bed and some skill would have been ideal. These are better than new either way.
These are a heavier wall tube and has a bit more thread on the tie end. Off the shelf parts solutions. I'll gather the part numbers later.
We cut and welded these. Access to a big enough pass through lathe bed and some skill would have been ideal. These are better than new either way.
Track Addict
Bronze Member
Yup going to clean them up before install with fresh lubriplate.
1boringguy
Well-known member
Just an fyi, this is how Tucker made the long rod by 1989. Shorter ends, one LH one RH threads, inserted to length into the outer tube and plug welded.
Track Addict
Bronze Member
Tie rods back on we ends also. Plan was to use clamps on both ends but allow one just snug enough for the tie rod/tube to pivot on one end as suggested because these tubes are slit on both ends. The table end would be ideal especially the front.
Turns out there is not enough clearance by the transfer case for the clamps on the center pivot sides. Stock setup this end had no clamp or slit. This new setup has so much thread engagement compared to stock below the slit and is heavier wall I don't see the need. Cleaner look also.
With this solution tubes are clamped at each table allowing the tube to rotate at the center pivot.
The rear tie rod end is quite the challenge to get at and change without throwing off the alignment or hanging the carriers to hyper rotate. Now I understand why tables are found with the tie rod end still attached.
At full lock with some special tools I can get at the nut. Two spring bolts just tough the tubes at full lock. Shallow nut could fix but I never take it hard lock like this.
Very happy with the serviceable upgrade. Sno actually coming tomorrow.
Carefull manuvering in garages!
Turns out there is not enough clearance by the transfer case for the clamps on the center pivot sides. Stock setup this end had no clamp or slit. This new setup has so much thread engagement compared to stock below the slit and is heavier wall I don't see the need. Cleaner look also.
With this solution tubes are clamped at each table allowing the tube to rotate at the center pivot.
The rear tie rod end is quite the challenge to get at and change without throwing off the alignment or hanging the carriers to hyper rotate. Now I understand why tables are found with the tie rod end still attached.
At full lock with some special tools I can get at the nut. Two spring bolts just tough the tubes at full lock. Shallow nut could fix but I never take it hard lock like this.
Very happy with the serviceable upgrade. Sno actually coming tomorrow.
Carefull manuvering in garages!
Blackfoot Tucker
Well-known member
There are 12 bolts that secure the leaf springs to the turntables (including the spring shackle to turntable bolts). Ten of those are installed from the outside in; meaning the bolt head is to the outside of the machine and the nuts are toward the center. The other two bolts; the rear bolt of the front left spring and the front bolt of the right rear spring are installed from the inside out; meaning the bolt heads are toward the center of the machine and the nuts are toward the outside. The reason is the thickness of the bolt head is thinner than the thickness of a nut, and thus there is just a bit more clearance between the tie rod and the bolt head.
New tie rods look great!
So, the new rod is doing the same thing (making contact with that bolt) as referenced in post 693. I thought you may get a little more clearance with the new ends, but looking again at the pics above your old ones are pretty much identical, whereas mine had a definite offset.
sno-drifter
Bronze Member
I do not endorse splitting both sides of the threaded end of the tie rod. Perhaps there is enough thread on the end of the tie rod end to go past the double split. It just looks like an opportunity for a fail. The results look clean though. I checked other tuckers and found none with double splits. Is this a factory modification? I recommend checking the tie rod periodically at the end of the cuts for cracks.
Track Addict
Bronze Member
The solution is what BFT said and reverse the rear bolts. In full lock either the front will touch or the rear will touch.
The OEM tubes only had slits and clamp one end. Due to the wear on the tubes and threads eventually one pulled out.
These tubes were an off the shelf solution we could modify. If I were to cut the tubes back to the slit end there is still quite a bit of thread engagement. The heavier wall tube, longer tie rod threads and leaving the unclamped side at the pivot I think is stronger that what was there originally. Much more so than the older models with smaller tubes and tie rods but I have been wrong before so we shall see.....
4 miles in the snow turning all directions over terrain no problems yet.
Making a tool like this is very helpful for the table tie rod ends.
Kids are learning to get unstuck and started back up on their own this year.
Snovid 20
The OEM tubes only had slits and clamp one end. Due to the wear on the tubes and threads eventually one pulled out.
These tubes were an off the shelf solution we could modify. If I were to cut the tubes back to the slit end there is still quite a bit of thread engagement. The heavier wall tube, longer tie rod threads and leaving the unclamped side at the pivot I think is stronger that what was there originally. Much more so than the older models with smaller tubes and tie rods but I have been wrong before so we shall see.....
4 miles in the snow turning all directions over terrain no problems yet.
Making a tool like this is very helpful for the table tie rod ends.
Kids are learning to get unstuck and started back up on their own this year.
Snovid 20
Track Addict
Bronze Member
It's drifted and blow but a foot here anyway.
Conway only go 6" or so but this early dumping is a blessing to the snowmobile economy!
Conway only go 6" or so but this early dumping is a blessing to the snowmobile economy!
Track Addict
Bronze Member
Should have got him a Tucker.
Track Addict
Bronze Member
Tracked and packed the horse sleigh trail this evening. Tucker loved it!
Something Calming about a Tucker ride for this copilot every trip. He was pumped to get brother free Tucker time. Slept for the hour trip and this is another reason I recommend safety for lock latches!
None of my recent work has failed yet...
Something Calming about a Tucker ride for this copilot every trip. He was pumped to get brother free Tucker time. Slept for the hour trip and this is another reason I recommend safety for lock latches!
None of my recent work has failed yet...
Track Addict
Bronze Member
Opened some more trails today just in time for what looks to be a washout headed this way. Towed one back so much fun they ran it out of fuel.
Foot brake caliper stuck and got hot!
I cracked the bleed valve and it released for the trip home. Looks like a rebuild in my future...
Foot brake caliper stuck and got hot!
I cracked the bleed valve and it released for the trip home. Looks like a rebuild in my future...
Track Addict
Bronze Member
pre Covid post Covid who will ever know?
Snovid-20
Happy Birthday maybe....
Snovid-20
Happy Birthday maybe....
Track Addict
Bronze Member
We went mobile today to a secure Orange Ops site where reasonable precautions and outdoor fun still can thrive.
Snovid-20
Snovid-20
