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1953 Tucker Sno Cat 443 Mt Washington WMTW Channel 8 Restoration
- Thread starter Track Addict
- Start date
It will all come apart again be rebuild for good and upgraded. At least now as I am figuring out the direction and order or restoration I can drive it in and out and move it around. Won't get much run time until it sees the sno oneday.
Something more dignified about a project that's a runner before you take it apart!
Something more dignified about a project that's a runner before you take it apart!
Sorted a few more things out. After reviewing as many 53 era 443's as I could online I have narrowed down the radiator to what should have been in it. There have been a few different ones used. Seems like they were in a number of dodge/chrysler/plymouth late 40's and thru 50's some point. Same thing with the gauge cluster which I think I can restore.
This cat is equipped with a Chrysler Industrial Model 8 251 cubic inch. The water neck has an external bypass where as others had and internal. The industrial models seemed to use a Cast Iron Water Outlet with 2" OD vs the aluminum ones available at 1 3/4 which match the upper radiator inlets. I think the water pump factors into which neck was used as well. Some waters pumps were a 4 bolt and some were a 3 bolt. This one is 3.
Removed a head temperature sensor which was probably installed when the mechanical water temp stopped but I don't see what it would have been hooked up to.
I drained the coolant from the system to remove the radiator which is leaking along with the upper hose hackery. This cat was a junkyard survivor so it had whatever was around installed in life. Ordered a new thermostat and gasket to change while at it.
Figured out the ballast resistor on the dash was for the wiper motor when the generator was removed and swapped to 12 v. I would guess the starter is still a solenoid 6 volt which spins faster with 12 volts. Seems to be working for now so we will table that for down the road.
A delco remy 10si alternator was hacked in at some point using a 3/8 belt pulley, with junkyard bracketry, and splices galore. The fan, crank, and hydraulic pump are 5/8 pully so reached out to vintage power wagons to get their internally regulated conversion alternator with 5/8 pully along with a very attractive and professional mount and adjusting arm for the 251. Once this arrives I can clean up the mess.
Need to figure out the tie rod end used. Very small compared to the other ones I have interacted with and these hook into the ends of the steel tables which is different than where we are use to seeing the aluminum tables attached.
Once I make some room going to heat up the front grill with a rosebud and try and straighten out the areas that have some wavy gravy.
This cat is equipped with a Chrysler Industrial Model 8 251 cubic inch. The water neck has an external bypass where as others had and internal. The industrial models seemed to use a Cast Iron Water Outlet with 2" OD vs the aluminum ones available at 1 3/4 which match the upper radiator inlets. I think the water pump factors into which neck was used as well. Some waters pumps were a 4 bolt and some were a 3 bolt. This one is 3.
Removed a head temperature sensor which was probably installed when the mechanical water temp stopped but I don't see what it would have been hooked up to.
I drained the coolant from the system to remove the radiator which is leaking along with the upper hose hackery. This cat was a junkyard survivor so it had whatever was around installed in life. Ordered a new thermostat and gasket to change while at it.
Figured out the ballast resistor on the dash was for the wiper motor when the generator was removed and swapped to 12 v. I would guess the starter is still a solenoid 6 volt which spins faster with 12 volts. Seems to be working for now so we will table that for down the road.
A delco remy 10si alternator was hacked in at some point using a 3/8 belt pulley, with junkyard bracketry, and splices galore. The fan, crank, and hydraulic pump are 5/8 pully so reached out to vintage power wagons to get their internally regulated conversion alternator with 5/8 pully along with a very attractive and professional mount and adjusting arm for the 251. Once this arrives I can clean up the mess.
Need to figure out the tie rod end used. Very small compared to the other ones I have interacted with and these hook into the ends of the steel tables which is different than where we are use to seeing the aluminum tables attached.
Once I make some room going to heat up the front grill with a rosebud and try and straighten out the areas that have some wavy gravy.
If you are doing the thermostat, do the pump as well. Cheap insurance. Even though mine is a 1969, all of my 265ci engine specs are tied to the 1954 Chrysler Windsor.
https://www.moparpro.com/product-category/water-pumps/
Kits:
https://www.moparpro.com/product-category/c-kits/
https://www.moparpro.com/product-category/water-pumps/
Kits:
https://www.moparpro.com/product-category/c-kits/
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I need to get up that way soon and drop off a part, I'll take you up on a visit!
Scored a local junk relic which is the same core different mount location toward rear instead of mid to clear the fan. Came off a 38 Plymouth from Maryland gone rat rod.
Thought the radiator mounts on the 53 were modified but they are factory after closer look.
37-48 dodge/chrysler/Plymouth seems to be the range. Looking at the 53 Air Force Tucker factory has is out of a custom deluxe for sure and other models I'm sure which is quite the safari. Plenty of expensive new options which I may embrace down the road but want a mock-up for now to loose the hodgepodge
The overflows I have seen are separate from the cap/fill seems to be the identifier and go down the passenger side.
Open to feedback. Could go
aluminum but want to keep as authentic as possible.
Scored a local junk relic which is the same core different mount location toward rear instead of mid to clear the fan. Came off a 38 Plymouth from Maryland gone rat rod.
Thought the radiator mounts on the 53 were modified but they are factory after closer look.
37-48 dodge/chrysler/Plymouth seems to be the range. Looking at the 53 Air Force Tucker factory has is out of a custom deluxe for sure and other models I'm sure which is quite the safari. Plenty of expensive new options which I may embrace down the road but want a mock-up for now to loose the hodgepodge
The overflows I have seen are separate from the cap/fill seems to be the identifier and go down the passenger side.
Open to feedback. Could go
aluminum but want to keep as authentic as possible.
I think I have a radiator for a 37 dodge bros. truck. If its still in the shop, if you want to pay shipping you can have it.
Think it's later but it appreciate the offer.
If you see the mounts above they are set toward the front on the core and away from motor.
The core I need has same dimensions but the mounts are mid core so it moves toward the nose for fab clearance as recesss in the factory mount
If you see the mounts above they are set toward the front on the core and away from motor.
The core I need has same dimensions but the mounts are mid core so it moves toward the nose for fab clearance as recesss in the factory mount
Here it is on a much better day!
Will be paying my respects from those slopes on the right Saturday. One day it will return.....
Will be paying my respects from those slopes on the right Saturday. One day it will return.....
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Maybe?
Moved the project into a better working position.
Notice the roofing nails holding panels and the sweet OSB back. Shotgun slug through the hood and firewall.
Plan is to strip it down bare bones and deal with the frame them start making it a restored rolling chassis going through the running gear. I'll rebuild the motor as that happens overtime. By the time that's done hoping the body tracks and pontoons will appear!
Frame will need some significant repairs due to typical rot.
Took the doors and hood off. Tucker welded the hinges to the frames back then. The hood hinges are neat designs. Bolt, pin, and some square stock maybe even keyways.
The heater isn't correct. They must have needed more at those temps up there along.
Been enjoying wildcat lately. It's inspiring thinking about this Tucker living up there.
Notice the roofing nails holding panels and the sweet OSB back. Shotgun slug through the hood and firewall.
Plan is to strip it down bare bones and deal with the frame them start making it a restored rolling chassis going through the running gear. I'll rebuild the motor as that happens overtime. By the time that's done hoping the body tracks and pontoons will appear!
Frame will need some significant repairs due to typical rot.
Took the doors and hood off. Tucker welded the hinges to the frames back then. The hood hinges are neat designs. Bolt, pin, and some square stock maybe even keyways.
The heater isn't correct. They must have needed more at those temps up there along.
Been enjoying wildcat lately. It's inspiring thinking about this Tucker living up there.
Got a few parts in today. Considered and researched switching back to the original generator and 6v system for keeping with how it was original but doesn't make sense.
Machine will be a runner and enjoyed so want do sensible unnoticeable improvements where possible.
Motor is coming out for overhaul and restoration while I repair the frame. Runs very well. Want to get all the motor, gauge, carb, and electrical system mocked up, and parts sourced/ planned prior to full disassembly for who knows how long.
Radiator and alternator are last on the list of which I source a 41 dodge radiator which is what was in the 53 airforce Tucker and looks like every 53 I could fine online. Other year dodge might be the same but this should be the one. Many of the cores are the same size across dodge/Plymouthbut the mounts are different
Vintage Power Wagons has solution that uses clean brackets and internally regulated alternator. Now with correct 5/8 pulley. Swapped the junkyard brackets out for this one.
Need to make a spacer for the upper mount but great solution.
Machine will be a runner and enjoyed so want do sensible unnoticeable improvements where possible.
Motor is coming out for overhaul and restoration while I repair the frame. Runs very well. Want to get all the motor, gauge, carb, and electrical system mocked up, and parts sourced/ planned prior to full disassembly for who knows how long.
Radiator and alternator are last on the list of which I source a 41 dodge radiator which is what was in the 53 airforce Tucker and looks like every 53 I could fine online. Other year dodge might be the same but this should be the one. Many of the cores are the same size across dodge/Plymouthbut the mounts are different
Vintage Power Wagons has solution that uses clean brackets and internally regulated alternator. Now with correct 5/8 pulley. Swapped the junkyard brackets out for this one.
Need to make a spacer for the upper mount but great solution.
Alternator mock up complete. Clean and simple with correct pulley size and belt. Needed to add 5/8 spacer to align from the intended power wagon application.
The water pump bolt holding the adjuster bracket is in the water jacket so will need sealant. When adjustment for the belt is needed, that bolt needs to be loosened and tightened which is probably ok but...
A better setup would be a stud and nut maybe welded, then a washer. then adjuster bracket and nut/lock washer for final product and belt tensioning.
Clearance behind the pulley is tight with the setup. Will finalize during engine rebuild but should be workable.
Was able to shorten the belt to gain clearance from the suction hose. My guess is the generator originally was not as wide. 5/8 x 50" final belt length for this setup.
One of the fan blades has a bend at the rivet hub area needing repair or replacement for final assembly.
Radiator next.
The water pump bolt holding the adjuster bracket is in the water jacket so will need sealant. When adjustment for the belt is needed, that bolt needs to be loosened and tightened which is probably ok but...
A better setup would be a stud and nut maybe welded, then a washer. then adjuster bracket and nut/lock washer for final product and belt tensioning.
Clearance behind the pulley is tight with the setup. Will finalize during engine rebuild but should be workable.
Was able to shorten the belt to gain clearance from the suction hose. My guess is the generator originally was not as wide. 5/8 x 50" final belt length for this setup.
One of the fan blades has a bend at the rivet hub area needing repair or replacement for final assembly.
Radiator next.
Ventured down for a look at a donor cat. This heater seems to be what was in it originally. I'll let the experts correct me if incorrect.
Forgot that this cat has a flathead. Exhaust manifold looks good and I believe the 251 and 265 are interchangeable along with some other parts.
Forgot that this cat has a flathead. Exhaust manifold looks good and I believe the 251 and 265 are interchangeable along with some other parts.
donor cat for what,
it is a mid sixties on machine
not good parts cat for a 53 machine
it is a mid sixties on machine
not good parts cat for a 53 machine
I think the exhaust manifold was offended and might have canceled......
Working on frozen flathead screw body panel removal.
Been spraying them down. Some come out quite easy. These ones I can actually touch by sticking my fingers through the rotted tube they are attached to.
These may be load bearing panels....
Been spraying them down. Some come out quite easy. These ones I can actually touch by sticking my fingers through the rotted tube they are attached to.
These may be load bearing panels....
PB blaster with a hand impact screwdriver to loosen then electic impact to finish. Some could be backed out with the electric impact.
The Orange lining positive spin of the body missing is someone already had to take the screw out!
Lots of rot on the bottom but also some surprisingly nice metal tuckered away. Frame going to be a project for sure.
Suspect shelf over the fuel tank and the fuel tank has deep groove from rubbing against the frame which is interesting.
The Orange lining positive spin of the body missing is someone already had to take the screw out!
Lots of rot on the bottom but also some surprisingly nice metal tuckered away. Frame going to be a project for sure.
Suspect shelf over the fuel tank and the fuel tank has deep groove from rubbing against the frame which is interesting.
vintagebike
Well-known member
This mini hand impact found on Amazon was surprisingly effective, after all the usual methods, in removing all the well frozen flat head screws on 1949 Tucker 422 Sophie. I found hardened small slotted bits too.
Attachments
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Pulled the OSB mess out, removed the hacked in incorrect cab heater, fuel tank, and more body panels and screws.
There was a radio/CB antenna on the passenger side and brackets that must have held the WIP. This cat had a roof rack which one bracket may have supported?
No viseable holes in the fuel tank or areas that indicate a leak. Looks like the nipple broke off at some point and the tie down brackets were loose so somebody did something Looks to be repairable.
The panel below the door shows the result of years of untreated steel and aluminum making contact. We will fix all that.
The dash, and firewall frame can be reused. Swiss queso firewall will be replaced.
There was a radio/CB antenna on the passenger side and brackets that must have held the WIP. This cat had a roof rack which one bracket may have supported?
No viseable holes in the fuel tank or areas that indicate a leak. Looks like the nipple broke off at some point and the tie down brackets were loose so somebody did something Looks to be repairable.
The panel below the door shows the result of years of untreated steel and aluminum making contact. We will fix all that.
The dash, and firewall frame can be reused. Swiss queso firewall will be replaced.
This is an area I want to improve. Tucker attached the hydraulic pump to frame with this design instead of the motor. Haven't really dove into the plan yet but how it is now requires a nut to be cut off or welded to the frame for pump removal or installation. There is very little adjustment and belt changes require pulley removal. I don't think I could get the pump out without removing the motor currently. That will be confirmed later.
The pump will need a rebuild which will most likely be a replacement. Won't weld a threaded rod to it like tucker did but I am sure a more professional design can be accomplished keeping with the original attachment points that allow serviceability.
The pump will need a rebuild which will most likely be a replacement. Won't weld a threaded rod to it like tucker did but I am sure a more professional design can be accomplished keeping with the original attachment points that allow serviceability.
41 dodge truck radiator fits. Have to unbend the fan and fix the mount welds from junkyard life but looks right!
Radiator mocked up waiting for a few bolts. 3 hose outlets are 1 3/4" and the water neck is 2" plus a little more with the rust on the neck. Working a clean hose solution. There could be another mopar radiator that was used with a water neck variant but this fits like it should.
Fan is bent in a few spots. Will use for mock up. Vintage power wagons has NOS 4 blades for final assembly.
Got all the screws threaded into the frame off the upper body. Only two broke off. The last ones are they bolted from the firewall fame to the body. Those are marinating in lubricant. Hope to have the body off this weekend.
Tucker motto: Build no two the same and often one! These hinges are 100% OEM build. One is flipped 3 tabs welded one side 2 the other. End of prohibition or beginning of legalization probably to blame.
The bottom passenger side broke off and has an ugly weld to be addressed.
Fan is bent in a few spots. Will use for mock up. Vintage power wagons has NOS 4 blades for final assembly.
Got all the screws threaded into the frame off the upper body. Only two broke off. The last ones are they bolted from the firewall fame to the body. Those are marinating in lubricant. Hope to have the body off this weekend.
Tucker motto: Build no two the same and often one! These hinges are 100% OEM build. One is flipped 3 tabs welded one side 2 the other. End of prohibition or beginning of legalization probably to blame.
The bottom passenger side broke off and has an ugly weld to be addressed.
Requesting input from our resident Tucker experts....
It would appear that the original hood had no latches on each side and instead used this center latch. Looking at the hood damage the center latch froze/stuck/broke in life causing the damage from heavy winds up on the mountain or trailering like others have experienced or frustrated hood openings.
Traditional Tucker hood latches must have been added later if not redundant and damage was caused by lazy.
The latch seems simple but I can't figure out what the release should be. Spring loaded bolt with a nut welded on the end fits the style?
It would appear that the original hood had no latches on each side and instead used this center latch. Looking at the hood damage the center latch froze/stuck/broke in life causing the damage from heavy winds up on the mountain or trailering like others have experienced or frustrated hood openings.
Traditional Tucker hood latches must have been added later if not redundant and damage was caused by lazy.
The latch seems simple but I can't figure out what the release should be. Spring loaded bolt with a nut welded on the end fits the style?
Here’s the latch on a 54 kitten
Your design looks a little different - looks like it’s already sprung to return and you just need a bolt with a button on it to cycle it - looks like your bolt is broken off right at the face of the bar
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