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Thiokol 1202B

I like the before pictures better . Can you throw some dirt and mud back on it ? Maybe a little grass seed in the tracks to give it that nice stationary permament look .
 
OK now i'm just bragging!:yum:
 

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OH yah the rear deck gets worked on next. Need to pull the tank. Buff both sides, have it boiled out just to make sure no gunk is in there then add some nice new plywood and spray it with bed liner.
 
Nice series to show the 'metamorphosis'! :thumb:

I think we should all just start this as a standard whenever any of us pics up a new addition to the fleet. With plenty of pics :weneedpic like here for 'The General'!

What a steal too! I just picked up my 601 a couple weeks ago. Haven't had a chance to do anything on her but I can at least describe the ridiculous journey to get her! :pat:

Keep up the photo trail! Good stuff.

I'm still noodling the 1201. If it was a 1202 I'd go for it but it does have a 6-way on it. The Spryte on eBay is tempting...
 
Need to pull the tank. Buff both sides, have it boiled out just to make sure no gunk is in there then add some nice new plywood and spray it with bed liner.

Mike ,
Just remember when you boil it out at a Radiator Shop ,you will lose the paint job . Heres is a easy way to tell if you need it done .

1. Remove the sending unit .Scatch mark it to know which way the sending arm goes .
2. With a high power flash light ,shine down at the bottom and look at the interior .
3. If it is fairly clean just rinse and air dry real good . Add a container of water additive with the first fuel .
4. If it is rusty , put about 100 assorted nuts and bolts in it and slash it to a old cement mixer and turn it on for about 2 hours .Duct tape the sender unit hole closed . Makes a hell of a racket but it will knock the rust out .Rinse out till it runs clear water and you are good to go . It you decide to go with a Plastic liner have a Rad shop do it . The do it yourself kits are crap . NEVER EVER weld on a tank that has a plastic liner installed . It will turn the liner to a grain like substance and plug everything up !!!!
5 .IF it is full of gummed up gas dump a bunch of dish soap in it after you get all the old gas out you can . Put a garden hose on the bottom of your hot water tank and use the hot water to soften up the gunk . It also makes your water heater more efficent and gives it a good cleaning too .Repeat with step 4 if needed . It should save you an easy 100 bucks .
 
Thanks BigAl! Will do. I remember now your gas tank on a cement mixer trick! MAINER thanks for the comp! YOU NEED TO GET THAT 1201 WITH A BLADE!
 
That yellowish Thiokol on Ebay is 10 feet wide!:4_11_9: You need a wide load permit to move it. Get the 1201 with a blade! Thats what I am now looking for. :thumb:
 
Well today will see me really cleaning each window. There seems to be some over spray on the front and side window. It was parked in a automotive repair shop for a bit. There is also tape residue from the for sale signs. I will scrape that off as well. Then the window seals will get cleaned once more then treated with a UV protectant and rubber treatment. I need to pull the fuel tank and remove the rear plywood. I will reinforce and weld up a few spots on the rear deck that have cracked over the years.
 
That yellowish Thiokol on Ebay is 10 feet wide!:4_11_9: You need a wide load permit to move it. Get the 1201 with a blade! Thats what I am now looking for. :thumb:

Yea, well, I've always wanted to pull a track to narrow it down. ;)
Just kidding.. I'll stop bidding. Too rich for my blood!:thumb:
 
Yah I was planning on the same thing. I posted in another thread I was going up to 10K. BUT I will see what the outcome was. The bids should be over by now.
 
Hay that is one nice cat you bought yourself. I haven't been able to spend much time on line lately so I am trying to catch up on all the reading thats been posted in the last several days. You did a fantastic job on buffing it out, I know thats not a easy job. (Congratulations on the new baby).:applause: :thumb:
 
Man I am still sore from doing all that buffing. The worse part was I had my shorts on and burn the hell out of the back of my legs. :yum: Yah sometimes I can be a dumb ass too! Oh well. Anyway it does look great. Cant wait to get my other Thiokol home!:thumb:
 
Not much progress. I waxed it again today by hand. Just waiting for my Carpet and sound deadoning materials to arrive. I am done waxing anything for a bit! Well at least until my other Thiokol gets here. That will get the same treatment. Wonder how good the paint looks under all that fade? Will see. Will post more when I install the rest of the stuff.
 
Well today will see me really cleaning each window. There seems to be some over spray on the front and side window. It was parked in a automotive repair shop for a bit. There is also tape residue from the for sale signs. I will scrape that off as well. Then the window seals will get cleaned once more then treated with a UV protectant and rubber treatment. I need to pull the fuel tank and remove the rear plywood. I will reinforce and weld up a few spots on the rear deck that have cracked over the years.






Well the over spray wasnt really over spray. It was where the tape or what ever they had over the windows come off as they bead blasted the outer cab before painting her. SO I will be replacing the windows. I dont need to but want the cat to look perfect.
 
I will be replacing these "steering" hoses with new Stainless steel braided hoses.
 

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I also want to replace the brake solid tubing with new stainless steel tubing. I will wait till after this winter before I do that most likely.
 
Today I changed the engine oil (which looked new anyway). I did find a nice suprise though! It looks like indeed the motor has recently been rebuilt. I also found all the hoses look pretty much brand new. The fan belt is also new. The oil pan bolts were just a tad bit loose so I tightend them up. Only one leaky spot which should now be fixed. Now all I need to do is change the transmission oil. Rear diff oil and flush the brake system and refill. I will replace a few hoses for the brake system but no time soon on those. Everything looks in pretty damn good shape! The master cylinders look pretty good too. Looks like new boots on them.
 
A fine looking machine, a helluva deal, you lucky so-n-so. Ready for a test ride at the end of the month? :thumb:
 
You bet we can take her out for a spin! I need to do a top speed test anyway. I am contemplating changing the New Prsocess with a top loader 4 speed with overdrive. My goal is to run at 18 MPH at about 2,800 rpm or as close as possible.
 
Today I changed the plugs, tightened up the loose bolts on the valve cover (was leaking a bit) by passed a fuel shut off valve (that was scary as hell!) and pressure washed the engine. Oh yah installed a new air filter and housing! Heres the pics.
 

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There are some wires I want to replace and clean up the wire harness a bit. I still need to fix one wiper motor, replace the rear plywood decking, Rear rail wood, change trans and rear diff fluid, finish bed lining inside the cab and make my final decision on the sound deadong I want to go with. Oh yah find a new front passenger seat as well, Then I am pretty much done till winter hits. One more complete detail inside and out should just about do it.
 
Here is a video of Mike applying everything he learned from his Slow-Master about operating snowcats toward operating his new 1202B. I consider myself fortunate, nay blessed, to have been there to capture the moment and be able to share it with all of you now.
 

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by passed a fuel shut off valve (that was scary as hell!)

Can you explain?

With a Thiokol Spryte or any model 1200 with the large rear deck fuel tank that is located higher than the engine and carb, the electric fuel shutoff valve is a safety item that is required. It prevents fuel from hydrostatic locking your engine if the needle and seat in the carb does not close completely when the engine is shut down. It also closes off the fuel supply to the engine in transport. If you have removed this electric solenoid valve, you should reconsider reinstalling before a problem develops.
 
Can you explain?

With a Thiokol Spryte or any model 1200 with the large rear deck fuel tank that is located higher than the engine and carb, the electric fuel shutoff valve is a safety item that is required. It prevents fuel from hydrostatic locking your engine if the needle and seat in the carb does not close completely when the engine is shut down. It also closes off the fuel supply to the engine in transport. If you have removed this electric solenoid valve, you should reconsider reinstalling before a problem develops.







Someone had installed a manual two tank selector swith which had one side blocked off to allow for single tank on and off. The valves hose male connector was 5/8" in diameter. Someone force a 5/16 fuel hose over this 5/8" connector. As you can imagine the hose was completely cracked and ready to blow loose. If this would have occured the raw fuel would have been spewing into the engine compartment about 15 inches from the exhaust minfold ect ect. That would not have been a good thing. I simply hooked it up the way it was from the factory. I can post pictures if you want.
 
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