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Skidozer 302

there is lots of space for the fan air to travel if you decide to close up the back of the engine area but you can always add a boat type engine compartment exhaust fan system. Might consider running the engine exhaust under floor of the passenger cab in the driveshaft well (will have to bump over the differential) and out the back and then straight up the center back of the cab. I think your current system is straight up the back of the driving cab anyway so it would be useful. Based on my limited experience I can only see the passengers facing forward.
 
I'll find this out as soon as I get teh rig, but do they use pusher fans, out through the radiator or normal like a car? if 'normal' where does the hot air go? Exit down the tunnel and out the rearend? on rigs with a box directly behind the cab, should one install a fan to encourage the air flow? Whichever way it is traveling? That 460 is going to require a lot of airflow...and I rather not have it sucking the warm air out of the cabin.
 
It is a puller fan like the car. Can't exit the rear end due to the differental so you have a point. maybe raise the whole passenger cabin up 4 -5 inches and let it blow out under the cabin....
 
Or have a boot like between a pickup shell and cab. Allowing access to the stock fuel and hydro tank, and air to flow out from under the cab w/o poluting the cabin.
 
One of my options is to ship the via comercial truckline, the problem I have is seller is not willing to pull the tracks, either befor the truck arrives or during the loading process. Any of you near Cazenovia New York? 15 miles soiuth of I90. He has the ability to haul it a short distance....as I'd need a dock to bring it up to semi trailer height. Any ideas? Otherwise i plan to pick it up in early Feb. Gee, anyone need anything hauled from Denver East? I70 to I80 to I90.
 
I own a logistics company. Where are you in Colorado and I will look into a step deck for you. The only way I figure to load this thing is to hire a tilt and loader and have him winch it onto his truck and then back up onto the step deck. I'll have to measure mine because the max high on a regular flat deck is 102 inches and a step is 124 inches.
 
One thing you might ask is how badly worn the inside of the aluminum cleats
are they wear inside and they are no longer available, they can be welded up
last time those cleats were available the outside portion was over 100 each
and the inside was not far behind. we use rollback towing people to load right at the site. usually not more that 100-150 even if they have move it a ways. check with me we have loads coming out of the Denver area back east
sometimes.
 
I have a flatbed carrier (Bill @ 574-721-3116) with a flat deck and will pick up your machine on Thursday and deliver to you Monday Tues. Your seller will need to help you locate a towing company with a tilt and load. Call the towing company about how they can block and tackle the dozer from their truck onto the flat bed. Bills rate to Denver area CO is $4500.00 US including permits and fuel which is pretty good. If you are interested then call Bill and work out the details.... you would pay him COD.
 
4500? That is almost 2x what I paid for it. I can pick it up for 1000 in fuel and tolls, not including costs of the miles on my Duramax. I'd consider it for 1500. As that is likely unrealistic, looks like a roadtrip is in my future.
 
Skidozer is 92" so would ride on a standard deck semi w/o being over height. It is currently 115" (9' 7") wide so the tracks will need to be removed, cannot imagine a wideload for 1700 miles across several state lines would be cost effective. God forbid that it snows or the wind blows, DOT would have a great time delaying the load.
 
On our 302 I just used a come along to take the tenson off and removed the bolts but mine has over lapping belts not lacing as my 200 has lacing harder. The tracks are way heavier than you think I have been rebuilding mine in the garage and they are tough to move around. I roll them up and use the skid loader with forks to move them around. I haul my 302 without a permit 9' wide the 200 is 10'6" and I do get a pemit for that one
 
I will assueme they are pinned/laced, as I cannot tell from the pic's I have. How do i release the greased tentioners? Or do i just put a come-a-long on both sides and pull it? Should one have the joint in the midpoint or near one end? Should I have a long punch in my tool box? 3/8"? What dia are the pins?
 
On my 252 you just use a socket on an extension and unscrew the grease fitting... think it's 7/16 ? The splice should be at the front or rear > where ever you can get at both sides (inside between the tracks and outside edge).
I find ratchet straps helpful.
 
If you want I am west of loveland and you can stop by I would be happy to show you what I have. Not sure how much it might help but your welcome anytime.
 
What track setup do you have on your 302 that makes it 9' wide? Asymetrical ? Have a pic posted anywhere?
 
Anyone know if a late 70's Ski-Dozer 302 has the same cog spacing as the late model machines? Will a set of tracks off a BR series or a PB fit? (can adjust total lenght) Used tracks are available here in Colorado. Just dont know if they will fit my rig.
 
call adrien at b gravel & fils he will tell you they ar in valcourt quebec he is the king in my op he ben in biz since the 50 and new parts and use
 
just got the 302 home...Denver to NY back to Denver, 3500 miles, 101 hours total. I need a nap.
The rig will need a bit more TLC than I thought..has cracks in the frame under the back of the cab. hour meter shows 5024. Have not started the 460 up yet...looks like it could use a complete rewiring as it is a mess. 5k hours on that 460 may be all it had in it? Will see if it smokes once i fire it up...Will remove the cab and weld in plate where needed, to bolster the frame under the cab. That cab looks really heavy! Disconnected the instrument pannel, and have seperated the hydro lines out the front, just have to thread them out the hole in the back and pull the lines from the "short stick" steering levers. Just a few bolts along the front edge to remove... any guesses at the wt of the cab?
Step one make it structurally sound, two mechanically reliable, third creature comforts. Plan on building a passinger cabin on the bed area. will be sweet when done.
Plan to document the restoration/transformation of this ex-groomer into a Colorado mountian crawler, "jeep on tracks" to explore the mountians and haul friends to powder skiing hot spots, for feul and beer...lol. more to come over the next few months.
 
Glad to hear you finally got it home !

I'll be looking forward to your restoration thread !!

How did you deal with the tracks ?
 
pulled the zerks, no grease oozed out...then once we got it to move, as it was firmly frozen to the ground, by chaning my trailer to a tree and winching the cat backwards we aliged the pins to where we could tap them out...then winched it forward off the tracks. they wrinkled up so we had to chain them back to the trailer and continue...
rolled them up, put a ratchet strap around them, and the seller had a bobcat, so we picked them up and got them out of the way. then winched it up onto the trailer, the blade got hung up on the ramps...loaded it tail first, as we figured it would put the bulk of the wt on the trailer axles that way. then dumped the tracks on the front of the trailer. it filled the 20' trailer. I'll post a pic of the loaded trailer.
my wife is not happy about losing the garage for a few months...have to pull the cab off, as it will not fit under the standard door frame.
Pixie that is a "cute" Muskeg... my dad has one in AK, he just installed a Ford 351/automatic in it with a v oil pan and remote oil tank to keep it from sucking air on steep climbs. just now completing the driveline brake setup. Does your Muskeg have old school manual steering? his does, was thinking of trying to duplicate the "short stick" hydro setup the Skidozer has for him, or at least set up slave cylinders...
 
Travelling to New York!!! Make sure you are DOT safe, and within proper weight, binders and on and on!!! Its spring and DOT in NY will redflag and ground you for an unsafe bolt!!! They get read hardnose in spring!!!
Looks like a solid machine. From the background in the photo, looks like you are in western,NY and quite far away. If you are picking up in eastern, NY and need help, may not be far away. Best of luck!!! Its a long ride!!!!
Tom
 
Just learned to not read posts before having a big cup of coffee so I don't reply before I get to the end!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:yum:
Glad your trip went well!!!!!
 
Happy to see it back at your place. Let me know how the cab removal comes along. I am going to do that in the spring. I broke mine again this weekend; I broke 3 cogs on the rear drive sprokets in deep wet snow. Honestly did not think that was possible but I am now on the hunt for a replacement drive sproket for an SV302. In fact I think I will buy 2 of them. Let me know if anyone has some for me.
 
Thanks Swixb. Pulled the sproket off last night and needed a 4 ft long Johnson bar to do it. I could not believe how tight those nuts are. I think I need a ski hill grooming manual because I have buried mine more then a few times pulling the hill grooming drag around.
 
Lifted the cab straight up with a forklift...the hardest part was un-plumbing all the hydro lines that ran out through two holes in the back of the cab. you have to scoot the cab forward about 1.5 inches to not hook the lines on the steering cylinders, so lift slowly and have a friend or to to watch. electrical, I just removed the gauge panel from above the window, marked and cut wires for lights & wipers...
stupid design on the fold down panel....folds right into the window, yep two spider cracks where it made contact at some ealier time.
 
have it in my garage...step one weld up the deck as it was cracked under the back of the cab, note the cab is really heavy! step two will be to grind off all the surface rust on the deck and coat with some affordable brand of "Rhino Coat" material. Then rewire the engine, as it is a mess. no factory cover behind the cab, time and weather have made all the wires brittle. then on to the cab...extend it to accomidate a bench seat, or go all the way back? had the idea of making it air ride like a semi cab, as zero suspention travel in the very back would make for a very harsh ride. a wild idea would be to scrap the factory cab and build a totally new cabin out of 2" DOM steel like tube buggy rock crawlers use...wrap it in Alm sheeting with foam between the pannels. glass would be easy, doors that would be tight will be the hard part. air bags w/ shocks on all corners, and seating mounted to the cabin not the floor. Anyone need a factory cab? Could help finance the tube frame...
Pics will come of the restro...
 
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