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Kristi KT-3 SN 00145

teledawg said:
Has anyone ever tried these bolt hinges on a Snow Trac track? Seems like it would work better than overlapping and bolting the belting...

What did you use for a hinge pin and how is it secured?
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I hope Bob does not mind me jumping in here .

The flexco kit comes with everything you need . I had to also buy the special sockett for mine . the hinge pin is nothing more than a 5/16 or 3/8 inch bolt with lock nut of the right length . I personally think they would work great on a Snow Trac and intend to use them when I rebuild mine .
 
Yes I'm fat. Depressed since I knew a Kristi was coming over for an extensive repair and TLC. So far Ive lost 5 pounds trying to get them damn tracks on! The bolts must have grown as well in diameter???? Oh well they finally went together. Sorry Bob P. Hope that wrist heals soon from the hammer whack! Really it was an accident.:rolleyes: Anyone that thinks these "Hindges" are better than over lapping needs there head examined!:yum: Good news is the tracks work great and now Bob P can actually shift it into gear after some cleaning and greasing of the gear selector box. That was a messy job but the end results were unbelieveable! Next is to track down some Hydraulic leaks. BigAl we need those new hydraulic diagrams! Ok time to go back and loose some of this weight.
 
BigAl said:
<snip>I also noticed that your back "side windows" appear to be installed in a rubber weather stripping where's my kT3 has a aluminmum frame ,much like a house window . I like yours better.
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I'm thinking safari windows
http://www.busbones.com/diy/safaris/safari0.html
http://www.izzssafariwindows.com/windows.htm
safaris.jpg


Seriously consider the HDPE plastic for new cleats when the time comes . You won't be sorry . I paid about $375 including shipping to get mine from back East . Really neat stuff and you can even get Redwood colored with wood grain embossing so it looks like wood . Check out the close ups on my KT7 thread.
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I am planning for HDPE at some point. I have a great deal of it available to me at work and it can be melted and reformed easily. But it's all black and probably can't be re-colored. Might just have to go in with you on your next run of the pretty stuff.

Your exhaust system is very similar to mine too . I have an idea to custom build a cargo rack and run the exhaust through the side tubes so it can terminate at the rear of the Cat.
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I think I'm going along the side just above the track. Will have to adjust the hydro limiters to not allow the track to come up that high, but I think it'll be simpler, easier, shorter, and maybe, just maybe, CHEAPER.

The clam shell is leaking a tad but I would not mess with it unless it gets excessive . There are no gaskets you can replace . Best just to use silicone sealant when the time comes . Just make sure it has some gear oil (pint) as this is how the #50 roller chain inside recieves lubricate.
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Will do.

Does your unit have any aftermarket engine gauges ?? My Kt3 has nothing and its a little scary.
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They look original to me. But I will be ordering all new stuff as listed earlier in this thread. My dash will be getting the woiks!!
350040c.jpg
 
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I think the hinges went on just fine, my side anyway! :moon:

Steps involved to install hinges...

1. Mark belt for holes using straight edge and measurements from the piece that was removed.
10_Marking_holes_to_be_drilled.JPG

2. Drill holes.
3. Position hinges over holes, but don't push them too far back onto the belt. This will cause problems later getting bolts through.
4. Gently squash them into place just enough that nut can catch threads of bolt.
11_Clamping_clamshell_clamps.JPG

5. Tighten till rubber just dimples inside look-see holes on hinge.
6. Pass long bolts through hinges and tighten nut on end.
13_Reinstalling_bolts.JPG
 
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Well the shade is to much. The top left was before. Top right during (hood only) and bottom left complete front is done. I need to pull her up into the sun.
 
Ok BobP the outside is done. Looks 100% better! I also cleaned up the dash crud. Oh yah I found your Hydraulic leak. Look at the photo of my boot! Well I found one leak at least.
 
pics
 

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Side, roof and dash.
 

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Bob,
What next? Want me to pull the engine, transmission and diff or hold off till I get my shop? Not sure how much time we have till it gets burried in snow.
 
Looks like it cleaned up well good work But being that I have a thiokol we dont have a set hot and cold water faucets what do thay control. Larry
 
Looks allot better. How long should that finish last? I would think that it could use a good coat of wax or something to keep it up every year then you wouldn't have to redo the job you just did on it. We did the same type of treatment on a fiberglass boat that was all faded a few years ago. It ended up being a constant struggle to keep the paint from fading. We ended up having to was the thing 4-5 times a summer. We ended up having to bring it to the paint shop to get the paint re-cleared.
 
o the things that make the tracks flop up and down gotyu makeing it the best side hill machine in the hole world ok right thanks Larry
 
bobpierce said:
Well, this set has been in use for 44yrs. I would consider that durable. But I don't think this cat did much summer work where it might have encountered rocky, stumpy terrain.
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I'm just surprised that wooden ones would last that long. Just judging by the shape the ones are in on the machine I run(and it's a 2002) They are all bent and cracked and where they ride on the sprockets, well, that part is worn down paper thin and all cracked on most of them. We'll be putting on a new set of tracks and grousers very soon.

Our machine came from Michigan and it looks like they were using it with the drag in the summer to smooth out gravel roads and trails in fields.
Bruce20064.gif

Very hard on any machine designed to run only in snow!
 
Those wooden grousres do surprisingly well. There is a metal strap on top and a metal strap on the bottom with a rounded Stainless steel piece under and welded to the lower strap.
 
By the way, BigAl says a leak like that could be the reason we're not maintaining full lift on the rams. Somebody (of no real importance :poke:) posted some duct tape here recently. Let's use that to patch it. :thumb:
 
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Mikey, when you get a chance, post a picture of that new air cleaner and maybe a part number along with it.
 
bobpierce said:
By the way, BigAl says a leak like that could be the reason we're not maintaining full lift on the rams. Somebody (of no real importance :poke:) posted some duct tape here recently. Let's use that to patch it. :thumb:
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http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/29/Kaugummis.jpg/200px-Kaugummis.jpg

Here's a link to another product that can be used to patch that hydraulic leak!











JK!!! In all seriousness though. It's a heck of allot better and easier to fix hydraulic problems while the machine is sitting in the driveway rather than out 30 miles from nowhere with limited tools.(been there, done that, not too fun) That's one of the first things I look for before heading out with the machine. It took me less then a minute one time to lose over 3 pails of hydraulic oil all over the trail when a hose popped off. (and some idiot had disconnected the warning lights and indicators for the low oil indicator) wasn't impressed! I could see how a leak would have an effect on the amount of lift on the rams.
 
Trust me BOBP there is now more than enough Hydraulic oil in the system! To much in fact. I need to know what the manual says about max Hydraulic level in the tank. I was about an inch from the fill hole. When the system cranks over (side to side) the excess leaks out. I thought I had it at the right spot but would like to know what the correct fill level is. Obviously I was wrong. Also the hose it self is leaking at the fitting crimp behind the dash board. I'm going to pull it today and see if I can get a new one made. This has been leaking for years apparently. I will get a picture of your fancy new High Performance Ultra Super Secret air filter. It does look cool at least! OK time to brew a pot of coffee!
 
Snowcat Operations said:
Trust me BOBP there is now more than enough Hydraulic oil in the system! To much in fact. I need to know what the manual says about max Hydraulic level in the tank. I was about an inch from the fill hole. When the system cranks over (side to side) the excess leaks out. I thought I had it at the right spot but would like to know what the correct fill level is. Obviously I was wrong. Also the hose it self is leaking at the fitting crimp behind the dash board. I'm going to pull it today and see if I can get a new one made. This has been leaking for years apparently. I will get a picture of your fancy new High Performance Ultra Super Secret air filter. It does look cool at least! OK time to brew a pot of coffee!
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Mike ,
If it is leaking hydraulic fluid the amount that Bob p, mentioned to me it could easily be sucking air back in the hose when you reverse the motion .An air gap would cause the ram to shatter and hesitate to lift . This is exactly what I was talking about on my KT7 tilt system that the hydraukic guru's are going to fix . When I get the new hose routing diagram ,I will most it here .
 
It does shutter at all. In fact it works great. It goes as high as my Kristi did. BobP thinks it should go full extension on both sides at the same time. I wish they did that. When I'm done it will!
 
Now that I think about it (and look at some old pictures), it probably isn't suppose to go full extension. I think it might be a good mod though for some extra clearance and less drag. But while fully extended it probably wouldn't be able to 'christie'.
 
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