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Ignition parts #s for Chrysler 251

One thing I should point out is, on the picture I posted, the engine was not set to "top-dead-center" on #1, it was in what ever position the engine shut off at, could have been anywhere, I think that is the same with yours, you just shut down the engine as I did. So unless you felt the need to try find TDC your rotor would be in the correct position.
 
Ok, I see what you mean, in comparing the pictures. It is easy to pull the dist and check to see if the adjusting plate has been forced or damaged. Just remove the screw and the dist pulls out, the are 2 plates under the dist that hold it in place and allow for adjusting, clean, check, and replace with the rotor in the same direction.
 
Hope to hear that you did get this working. I have done this conversion on all three machines and each one started up at the touch of the key. Hope I was helpful!
 
After contacting pertronix and trying the tests they gave me...it seems the ignitor and coil are ok.
The only time i can manage spark is when i leave the coil wire off the coil....spark will intermittently jump from the coil tower to the negative terminal on the coil.
This is really bizarre that it wont travel down to the distributor and out the wires.
I have replaced every part as well.
 
Did you replace the cap, or check to see if the contact for the coil to the rotor didn't fall out, there should be a carbon contact / spring inside center of the cap.
It is usually something simple as everything worked before.
 
Yes I have replace cap..button...coil...plugs..wires and ignition.
I can take the coil wire off the distributor....and get spark to jump a full 2" to ground...that lead me to think timing..
When the crank pulley is at 0...the button is pointing to the post on the cap to #1 cylinder....everything seems to check out...that is why I am stumped.
 
I am curious....is there any way to advance or retard a tooth....small block chevy style? There is no gear on the distributor...so i am guessing not.
I ask this ....because adjusting the slide plate under the distributor all the way....will "just" barely put the button on the #1 post....i would also have no adjustment left in order to time out detonation if need be.
 
Do you get spark at each spark plug? take out each plug, lay them on the cylinder head, connect them to their corresponding wire, turn the engine over and you will see if each plug is sparking. Easier to see if it is darker. Are you sure you have each wire going to the correct cylinder? The firing order is embossed into the cylinder head, make sure #1 is closest to the water pump.
 
Yes...i have tried that.
The only thing I can think....the motor may have been rebuilt at some point....and i am guessing the cam is out a tooth....that would explain why my dist housing needs to be turned so far...
I am going to remove the bolt that holds the dist....and turn it even further and see if my guess is correct.
 
Sorry I didn't see you recent post regarding the advance / retard. No the such thing on this engine. The distributor is driven off the oil pump gear, that the cam shaft drives. I would like to be sure you have the ignition wires running to the correct cylinder/spark plug. The firing order is 1,5,3,6,2,4 again #1 is closest to the water pump.
This problem is something simple as you said, you didn't remove anything.
Man I want to hear that this engine is puurrrrrrring like a kitten and the power of a CAT! At first I didn't think that this system made a diff, but I see that starting and throttle response is much better.
 
Ill keep you posted...this is crazy....the time ive messedwith this......i coulda had a small block mounted and running by now!!
 
I have not heard it run....i bought it as is....in the woods with a broken drive sproket...where it quit is where i drug it out with the dozer..
 
Don't bet on it, a small block set up is major work, but I know what you mean.

I am changing one machine to an TH350 automatic using a newly rebuilt 251, I am now into it many months and $$$. Unless you want to race this J5 you do no need that chevy
 
OOOhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh! I saw that post I think....

Did you check the compression in each cylinder?
 
No...i did not check compression....but i do know the guy that owned it well....he did drive it in the e oods to where the sprocket broke....so i know 100% it was running.
 
I just tried it in the dark....there is spark....but very weak.
What do you run for a gap between the pertronics and the magnet wheel?
 
You use the gauge in the box from pertronics, it is clear plastic piece. You put it between the cam and the module and adjust like you would do with the points. As there is nothing to wear out you normally do not need to do any other adjustments.

Good that there is spark are you sure you have the ignition wires in the correct firing order...
Also, if there is spark and the firing order is correct then the no start is fuel related.
Got your PM I will email you so we can see if we can get this fig out...!
 
Yes that is what the magnet ring slides onto...
If I dont get decent spark soon im going to get an hei distributor from langdons stovebolt....
 
I thought from the beginning that this engine was running and you just wanted to upgrade to hei. But seeing it was not running, we need to talk about fuel, did you put a splash of good gas down the carb then try starting...? If the machine was sitting in the bush for a length of time, the carb should be removed and cleaned. Also, you need to be sure the fuel pump is pumping.
 
Sorry I missed you the other night.
I tried cranking it over in the dark...there is spark....but very weak.
 
Spark is all you need as long as it is firing in the right order... we need to talk fuel did you put new gas down the carb, just a splash and see if it fires...
 
No...I havent yet...Im not sure I can explain how pathetic the spark is...yes I do realize it doesnt take much....but it should easily be daylight visible....and audible.
 
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