• Please be sure to read the rules and adhere to them. Some banned members have complained that they are not spammers. But they spammed us. Some even tried to redirect our members to other forums. Duh. Be smart. Read the rules and adhere to them and we will all get along just fine. Cheers. :beer: Link to the rules: https://www.forumsforums.com/threads/forum-rules-info.2974/

Wax chain spray

bobbob

New member
A lot of dirt bikers are using this wax chain spray and say that the dirt doesn't stick to it, anyone tried that on the Tucker steel tracks.
 
1745266724605.jpeg
 
I have a can of that chain wax in my basement. (Same exact can as the pic).

I built a 2009 Honda Rebel a few years ago. I put a dirt-bike engine on it. (250cc single). The dirt-bike engine (obviously) was a lot more narrow than the original twin-cylinder 250cc, so I had to put a jack-shaft on it to get the sprockets to line up. It works great, but the chain whips around so fast that it wears out in 600-800 miles. I oil it every day..... and it makes a greasy mess all over the whole back of the bike.

......... So, this "chain wax"..... does it hold up well INSIDE the chain? I know that it comes out as a liquid and it drys into a wax. I'm afraid that whatever lube gets INSIDE the chain will simply burn off and allow the chain to wear out ... all while leaving a "wax seal" that will prevent oil from getting where I need it.

I'm about to get it out of the shed, change the oil, lash the valves, change the back tire and put a new chain on it.

I've always wondered about the chain wax....... but I'm just not sure it will work on my jackshaft like I want it to.



PICT0030.JPG
Rebel Smurf.JPG
 
Throwing my $0.02 in. There are several products like this on the market, I use some. Sprayon LU710 waxy film protectant . Boeshield T9, and before it was discontinued, Deere "mouseout" (which got discontinued because it was mistaken for rodent protection)( it took the "squeak out"). It works great for protection from the weather and dust etc. I use it when storing equipment that is going to be sitting a while. Coat exposed hydraulic cylinder rods, moldboards, pins, linkages, exposed drive chains and so forth. Once back in service anything that gets motion against it will cause it to go away quickly. Using exposed drive chains as an example. The outsides of the links it stays fairly long. But where the teeth mesh with the rollers on the chain, rollers and the inside of the links it disappears. Getting back to the original issue, I think even the force of snow whould strip it fairly quickly. If you do try it, please report back how it works.

Related note On my rubber tracked ST-4, I spray the tracks at the start of the season with Armor All and after the last use for the year. It really helps shed the snow and in the off season it should help with belt life. I buy gallon size when on sale, and use a pump garden sprayer.
 
Never considered using it on tracks. :unsure: I greased mine going back together and that's it. As much as you try to keep tracks out of the dirt, the are in the dirt. And the dirt will cling to the grease/wax. That being said, I have used the Maxima wax for a decade on the dirt and street. Love the stuff.
 
I remember a conversation with one of the Heritage snow cat collectors here and the consensus was dry was best. it the products ( grease for example ) applied picked up various dirt and debris the products keep the dirt in play, and to toms point snow is very abrasive and loaded with dirt.
if you are like me, I learn by doing. I would give it a try.

for summer storage, I very messily apply oil with a 4 inch paint brush after greasing the rollers they sit covered until fall when I inspect the pontoons for mice and what ever else could have gotten in then hit the snow. I grease the rollers every once in a while during the season and refuse to haul my cat in the salt brine of the midwest.

I see some steel tracked machines with some nice looking paint on the grousers maybe paint is the answer.
 
I have a can of that chain wax in my basement. (Same exact can as the pic).

I built a 2009 Honda Rebel a few years ago. I put a dirt-bike engine on it. (250cc single). The dirt-bike engine (obviously) was a lot more narrow than the original twin-cylinder 250cc, so I had to put a jack-shaft on it to get the sprockets to line up. It works great, but the chain whips around so fast that it wears out in 600-800 miles. I oil it every day..... and it makes a greasy mess all over the whole back of the bike.

......... So, this "chain wax"..... does it hold up well INSIDE the chain? I know that it comes out as a liquid and it drys into a wax. I'm afraid that whatever lube gets INSIDE the chain will simply burn off and allow the chain to wear out ... all while leaving a "wax seal" that will prevent oil from getting where I need it.

I'm about to get it out of the shed, change the oil, lash the valves, change the back tire and put a new chain on it.

I've always wondered about the chain wax....... but I'm just not sure it will work on my jackshaft like I want it to.



View attachment 190568View attachment 190569
Well I don't know Don. I would think it's formulated for both outside and inside the chain, unless maybe running an o'ring chain. One way to find out is to try it and see if you get any less than your normal 600-800 miles.if you're blowing through chains that often, better pay close attention to the sprockets too.
 
..... better pay close attention to the sprockets too.
Yeah, I make my own sprockets, too.

The chain that goes from the engine to the jackshaft is a #40 "hardware store" chain, and I oil it daily. The chain that goes from the jackshaft to the back wheel is a #50 "o-ring" chain that came with the bike. (Still original).

I'll just keep oiling it........ I don't think "chain wax" is going to do any better in my application.

..... (I don't oil the "o-ring" chain).
 
Top