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Variator

Thanks Mike. I managed to omit a basic and important part of any Variator rework one might do. There are I believe 10 HEAVY Steel Bushing inserts. They are ST3014 in the diagrams, and they resemble thick washers but with a 'Step'. All the moving parts that have the 1/2 shafts riding on them go in these. They look like 2 different washers scacked together. There isn't really any good way to lubricate these. Water dripping in thru the air intake slots in the hood lets these get rusted up. All of the shafts associated with these washer like bushings are held in by large cotter pins. The cotter can be SAE or Metric, either size works. Use new ones when reassembling the Variator. The bushings are steel, and the shafts are steel and they tend to rust up. Go to the hardware store or Home Depot and buy a 'Tubing Brush' that is slightly larger than the inside diameter of the washers, I think it's 5/8". They will be in the plumbing department and are for dressing the inside of copper tubing before soldering or 'Sweating' the pipe together. They cost about a buck. Dress all the interior surfaces where the shafts ride. Then "Paint" them with Never Sieze or some good quality wheel bearing greese. A Paste Brush, about 20 cents, works good and is also a 'Plumbing' item used for applying Flux paste to copper pipe. I recomend the Blue Boat wheel bearing greese as it is water repellant. Polish all the shaft ends with steel wool or Scotch Brite pads. A Dremmel or air die grinder with a small wire wheel works well too. You can do this dressing of most all of the variator joints even if your not taking the variator out of the machine. You can usually get at least 5 years of service out of one such lubrication this way. The owners manual had you dripping oil from an oil can on these joints, but one runs the risk of getting oil on the Chives(pulley halves) and on the belt. It isn't very effective, and you want to avoid getting greese or oil on the belt or it's mating surfaces. The Variator "C" Casting, ST25 also carries one of the 1/2" shafts and should be wire brushed out too. All the shafts and joints should move freely. The following is a list of the joints that need to be dressed this way:The arm off the steering box,(has 2 parallel plates, ST1045), the ST501, "Segment" or "Arm", ST7021 Eye Bolts(2), All 4 arms(side plates), ST1033(2), ST7018, & ST7019, and both spring holder assemblies, ST7016, & ST1032. You will be suprised how much better your ST4 Turns and steers with these parts properly lubricated. Generally when one initially disassembles the Variator lincages they find at least one of these joints has rusted up solid. I think I mentioned it before, but just incase you didn't catch it earlier, the 3/8 bolt that holds the ST3008 Shaft/Pin in place should be Grade 8, not grade 3 or 5. And it should have a grade 8 washer where the nut rest against the alloy on ST25. Some ST25 castings had a steel sleve in them that this bolt rides thru. Don't loose it, or assemblle it without this. This bolt is ST6161, and the sleve never had a part number and was not shown in any of the factory manuals. If this bolt has been replaced with the wrong grade of bolt it usually breaks but you can't see it except when your turning the wheel. The effect was that the steering became very sloppy and then eventually led to other parts breaking.It also tended to ovalize the hole in ST25. You can drill it out to a larger size and slip a small piece of steel tubing thru it to dress up a damaged one.
 
Re: Variator Disassembly

IF ST3001 Won't come out: This is a dowl pin with only one cotter pin. There are 2 of them and they often rust into place making it nearly impossible to disconnect the steering box from the rest of the Variator which in turn makes it impossible to get the variator out of the vehicle. Don't Panic, and Don't "Get a bigger hammer". Remember the Variator is made mostly of "UNOBTAINIUM"( That's UN-OBTAIN-IUM)! Clamp a pair of 'Visegrips' on the sholder of the end opposite the cotter pin end. Now take a torch and heat the joint. A regular propane torch will work, it doesn't have to be an Oxyaceteline. Often you can free it up with just Liquid Wrench or similar penitrating oil. Spray it down a couple of times, it helps if you wait a day and spray it again, but this take alot of patience. Then tap on the end with a ball peen hammer or a Brass hammer while trying to turn it with the channelocks or vicegrips. Once you get it to move rotate it around, and make sure you file off any place you may have muchroomed it with the hammer.
 
Lyndon, You use to make the part that breaks on the variators. Any chance those can still be had? I dont need one but would like to have a spare.
 
just bought a snow master it drives but does not steer have checked the variator both clutchs move up and down belt moves from left to right clutch but no turning think machine sat unused for some time belt looks in rough shape but tensioned correctly could it just be warn out and needs replaced
 
if the belt's slipping you should see it also check the splines in the drive hub they are prone to wearing out also I have seen axles break and the shafts to the varriator shivs break
 
Running on bare ground and a greasy belt would do it. Over geasing the variator was the cause of slippage for me. grease got on the belt.
one test to see if something is broke is You can manually turn each side of the variator and see if the track turns.
what is your location? maybe someone is close that can help.
jim
 
one other thing on the belts is I have seen the cords inside break which will allow the belt to expand and contract like a rubber band this too will screw up steering
 
Re: Starter Bushing

Lyndon said:
The brass bushing that supports the end of the starter shaft is pressed into the bell housing. This should be inspected and replaced if worn. They are different sizes for 6 Volt and 12 Volt. The 6 volt is much larger inside and on the outside. VW places have a special aftermarket brass busing that converts an old 6V bell housing to adapt to the New, smaller diameter 12 Volt shaft. Put a dab of grease on the shaft end sticking out of the starter before you plug it back in to it's hole. Starters are very difficult to remove from an ST4 when the Variator pulleys are on. It's possable, but difficult, so have the starter rebuilt and plug it in while your doing the over haul, when it's easy to get at. Even if your starter seems to be working good have a starter guy go thru it anyway. Having one rebuilt is cheap and saves a lot of hassels later. As previously stated: " You can't call Triple A for a tow from Mt. Mckinley".
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I'm about to remove my starter because it is starting to grind (nearly left me stranded today) Any tips or suggestions on how to do this without removing the engine?
 
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