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Time for a box blade!

DaveNay said:
edit: I seem to be having problems with uploading pictures.:shitHitFan:
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Hmmm. . . you'd think a computer savvy moderator here at F.F. would be able to post photos. Would you like me to edit the photo in your post? Or should I get Junkman to do it for you, he will be gentle :moon:
 

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B_Skurka said:
Hmmm. . . you'd think a computer savvy moderator here at F.F. would be able to post photos. Would you like me to edit the photo in your post? Or should I get Junkman to do it for you, he will be gentle :moon:
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Well, this is the error I get....

quota.jpg
 
Seems to me that Doc, our faithful administrator, is telling you that you are over your picture quota.
 
B_Skurka said:
Seems to me that Doc, our faithful administrator, is telling you that you are over your picture quota.
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I was unaware there was one.....besides, I would think that someone like yourself with a billion posts would have reached that quota already. :moon:
 
DaveNay said:
I was unaware there was one.....besides, I would think that someone like yourself with a billion posts would have reached that quota already. :moon:
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I did reach my quota, but Doc likes me :poke:

But now back to your question about Box Blades, or more specifically, the grader blade.

This is just my opinion, but it looks light to me, but worth a try.

Weight can be added, either with some concrete blocks or by beefing it up with more steel. It is obviously lightly built, you will be giving your stick welder a workout adding some steel to this. But the design looked pretty good, I've seen similar designs and reports are they are effective. In fact it is very similar to some of the ski trail drag designs. That unit probably won't work well on hard clay or to turn undisturbed soil into a road, but it looks like it would work well on a gravel road to tear out the ruts, washboards and then refinish/redress the road.

I do think you will have to beef it up for it to be a long term implement, but the design seems pretty sound with the dual angled graders. The rear drag probably also needs to be beefed up with added weight, but I'd try it without adding weight to the rear drag. If I understand the overall design of this type of grader, you need more weight up front and less near the rear.
 

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DaveNay said:
I was unaware there was one.....besides, I would think that someone like yourself with a billion posts would have reached that quota already. :moon:
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Yep, there is a quota for images. As I rule I am not setting it. But, if I create a new group and forget to change the default 100000 to zero then the limit is in effect for those in that particular group.

Sorry bout that. I'll have you fixed shortly Dave.
 
We shall see, we shall see. I bought the grader blade, and I will pick it up this weekend. Like I said, the price was right. Final bid ended up being only $127.50. :thumb:
 
It's been a while since I started this thread, but as my last post says, I bought the grader type blade. I have used it a couple times so far to mixed results. The biggest problem is there are no rippers. My driveway is extremely compacted with little loose stone on the surface, and without rippers, the blades will only loosen a little bit of the stone per pass. This means to get rid of the potholes (actually just filling them in with loose gravel) takes quite a few passes. The first time I made about 20 passes up and down the drive before I could say it was "improved". Since this is a homemade grader, I wasn't really expecting much cutting capability compared to the commercial units. I'm guessing the commercial offerings would have slightly more cutting capability, but would still not be adequate for my concrete-like driveway. Overall I'd say it is pretty good at smoothing loose stones, plus it does pretty good pulling the stone away from the edges and into the middle of the drive.

I'm still convinced that to actually "fix" my drive will require something that will completely loosen the top 3"-4" of gravel, then I can smooth and shape it with this grader or my back blade.
 
Well my little box blade is still sitting here if you want to borrow it. I know its not a short drive, but it might be worth it if you want to try it before you decide to spend money.

Otherwise you might be able to attach some scarifiers to your angle blade to rip into the packed ground so the angle blade does more good?
 
DaveNay said:
It's been a while since I started this thread, but as my last post says, I bought the grader type blade.
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Dave,

Can you post a pic of your blade (preferably when mounted to the tractor)?
If it's similar to mine, adding weight and/or increasing the length on the top link helps it dig.
 
bczoom said:
Dave,

Can you post a pic of your blade (preferably when mounted to the tractor)?
If it's similar to mine, adding weight and/or increasing the length on the top link helps it dig.
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Scroll down. Bob has pictures in post #31 in this thread. That is not my tractor though, those pictures are from the guy I purchased it from.
 
OK, thanks. I skimmed those but thought that was a pic of something else.

DaveNay said:
I'm still convinced that to actually "fix" my drive will require something that will completely loosen the top 3"-4" of gravel, then I can smooth and shape it with this grader or my back blade.
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You're probably right.

Any friends/neighbors or other that has any excavating equipment? A rockhound on a tractor or skidsteer would probably work nicely.
 
A sub-soiler would only be $100-$200. A couple passes with the subsoiler would loosen things up nicely. You don't have to bury it all the way just set it down a few inches.

Just a thought.
 
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