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SV-252 won't drive straight
- Thread starter undy
- Start date
FYI, assuming you have a SV-252 with a normal hydraulic pump on it, a 3000# psi pressure gauge works well to check pressures. I paid $25 for one, but I see there are cheaper ones on flea-bay.
So, I swapped filters and tested the hydraulic pressure at both slaves. At rest with the engine running, I showed no pressure on the gauge. Of course, this is a 3000# gauge, so it may just have been so little pressure that it did not read on the gauge.
I was able to develop in excess of 1000# psi when I really hauled back on the steering levers, and it dropped immediately when I released the levers. Both sides acted identically, so I believe I do not have an issue hydraulically.
As I mentioned in the related thread about hydraulic pressure, I began to wonder whether the "faulty" slave was in fact the properly operating one. Perhaps the slave that did not actuate as fully was losing fluid due to the pitting in it? (So the slave that seemed to be actuating too far was really doing what they both should have been doing.)
I spent a couple hours last night wearing the stones off a brake cylinder hone, and it seems like I may have been able to remove most or all of the pits from the slave cylinder. It was past dark, and into beer time by the time I finished, so the rebuilt slave is sitting on my bench right now. I'll install it today and see what happens.
So, I swapped filters and tested the hydraulic pressure at both slaves. At rest with the engine running, I showed no pressure on the gauge. Of course, this is a 3000# gauge, so it may just have been so little pressure that it did not read on the gauge.
I was able to develop in excess of 1000# psi when I really hauled back on the steering levers, and it dropped immediately when I released the levers. Both sides acted identically, so I believe I do not have an issue hydraulically.
As I mentioned in the related thread about hydraulic pressure, I began to wonder whether the "faulty" slave was in fact the properly operating one. Perhaps the slave that did not actuate as fully was losing fluid due to the pitting in it? (So the slave that seemed to be actuating too far was really doing what they both should have been doing.)
I spent a couple hours last night wearing the stones off a brake cylinder hone, and it seems like I may have been able to remove most or all of the pits from the slave cylinder. It was past dark, and into beer time by the time I finished, so the rebuilt slave is sitting on my bench right now. I'll install it today and see what happens.
MNoutdoors RIP
Gone But Not Forgotten
One other thing to try is remove the hydraulic tank cap and see if there is a change at all make sure it's venting
Okay. Installed the freshly honed slave cylinder again, started the engine, and it pissed hydraulic fluid all over. But that was with the original rubber cup, so no huge surprise.
Picked up a 1 3/8" cup for an old auto brake cylinder at NAPA for $2.07, installed it, voila!
Both cylinders now work fine, move equal amounts, and do not leak.
More testing this week to see if it drives straight now.
Thanks a lot to all of you who offered info and advice!!!
Picked up a 1 3/8" cup for an old auto brake cylinder at NAPA for $2.07, installed it, voila!
Both cylinders now work fine, move equal amounts, and do not leak.
More testing this week to see if it drives straight now.
Thanks a lot to all of you who offered info and advice!!!
Yup a new hone job and a piston cup seal are golden aren't they?? I hope this will get you up and running soon!
Regards, kirk
Regards, kirk