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Stuck Bogie/Idler Wheel spindles on 1977 Tucker 1442

WyoSnow

New member
Hello all from a newbie and would like to start out by thanking all of you for all of the posts and wonderful information and pictures on this forum, it has helped me a ton to date. The 1442 that I purchased came out of the Northeast and even though it was fairly well maintained they did miss quite a few areas. I plan on doing a full restoration on it (basically replace every nut and bolt) and bring it back to like new condition. I currently have the front tracks off if it as it needed new sprockets and a few of the idler wheels need new bearings. I know I read in one of the posts but have been unable to find it again how you all have removed stuck spindles. Most all of the wear parts on the carriers are super rusted and I have had to "massage" a few pieces out, but the spindles are in the same condition, and I cannot get them out and do not want to tear them up as they appear to be in good shape. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. And I plan on posting some picture here soon. Thanks in advance.
 
Thank you Davenet, I knew it was not going to be easy but starting with the tensioner spindles first and going to try and press them out. I had to drill out the bolts that hold the UHMW on and not a terrible job just time consuming but learning real quickly that nothing goes fast on these cats and when you have them apart address anything you find and that time as it will only get worse if prolonged. Not sure why the old mechanics never used anti seize on any of the parts? I work in the oil and gas industry and we put it on everything as it just makes life that much easier at the end of the day.
On another note here are some of the idler wheel bearings that I pulled out, I read a really good discussion on that the other day and which brand to use and were the cheaper ones better? From the ones that I pulled out the Timken bearing held up better than the others, I have no idea what brand the other were as there are no markings on them but what I did find that even when the seals were out the Timken did not rust and fall apart like the others they seem to be just a little heavier built and better materials from what I assessed. Another question is on the outside of the idler some of my wheels just had washers and others had caps (about a 50/50 mix of them) the washers are obviously easier to remove but the caps seem to hold the grease better? They put silicone on the caps to help them seal up but not sure if Loctite would be better? The caps were not bad to remove but was wonder if the washers were better as I seee most of you guys are just running washers? I also notice that the seals that were installed backwards did hold up better (were still in place and holding) but only had 1 or 2 that were that way most were installed correctly and most were either leaking or completely gone. Just an FYI from what I have found.
 

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