• Please be sure to read the rules and adhere to them. Some banned members have complained that they are not spammers. But they spammed us. Some even tried to redirect our members to other forums. Duh. Be smart. Read the rules and adhere to them and we will all get along just fine. Cheers. :beer: Link to the rules: https://www.forumsforums.com/threads/forum-rules-info.2974/

ST4 restoration of Frankie the Frankentrac

Nice day here in Seattle, prefect time to sand and paint the top of the cab so it can dry in the sun. While watching the paint dry I continue to plumb the brake system, tidy up wiring, mount the oil filter in an accessible location and run the engine for the first time since installation. Everything working perfectly. Adjusted the clutch pedal, bolted down the battery holder. I'll paint some red parts tomorrow if the predicted weather holds and continue with the wiring.

IMG_7829 copy.jpegIMG_7830 copy.jpegIMG_7818 copy.jpegIMG_7835 copy.jpegIMG_7836 copy.jpegIMG_7839 copy.jpegIMG_7834 copy.jpeg
 
Another very nice day (but the rain is coming) so sanded down the sides of the cab and painted it red. Then riveted the louvers back onto the scuttle panels and painted them red, then painted the seats red, valve cover access panels red and the neighbors cat red as well :p

IMG_7848 copy.jpegIMG_7847 copy.jpegIMG_7851 copy.jpegIMG_7853 copy.jpegIMG_7855 copy.jpeg
 

Attachments

  • IMG_7846 copy.jpeg
    IMG_7846 copy.jpeg
    1 MB · Views: 51
Took all day to get the spaghetti sorted. I wrapped the wires near the defroster duct in firesleeve on Cidertom's recommendation because that duct gets hot and I don't want to melt the wires. Connected the speedometer cable and it works nicely, ran the tail light harnesses back along the sides and fit the new Land Rover steering wheel. Ready for the cab installation, but need to have a day with no rain so I can move it outside to lift the cab up and on the seats.

IMG_7879 copy.jpegIMG_7881 copy.jpegIMG_7886 copy.jpeg
 
For Nikos, this is how I wired my tach:

One wire to the battery positive through a fuse, the signal wire to the negative side of the coil, plus the light wire to lights and then finally the ground wire to battery ground.
 

Attachments

Yeah, I had the same issues, took 3 assemblies to get everything to line up - I'd get the door frame right then the roof wouldn't line up correctly. All looking great though, going to be a nice cat when its finished.
 
Got the rear end fabricated, painted, sealed and bolted up. Finally got everything aligned, door fits nicely, new hinges, just have to finish painting the door frame and skin. New fuel tank located, need to put down the rubber underneath the tank first, then put the tank on, plumb the fuel pump and fuel lines. First photo shows what I started with, hard to see both rear panels are cracked along the seat angle line. The rear bulkhead will be much more rigid now with the diagonal support angles.

IMG_6516 copy.jpegIMG_7925 copy.jpegIMG_7929 copy.jpegIMG_7933 copy.jpegIMG_7946 copy.jpegIMG_7944 copy.jpeg
 
Great work! Curious on the slight mod on the rear corners. Easier, better? What a great restoration on this!
Are you referring to the diagonal struts added? Those give the rear bulkhead better rigidity - less flex back there. The benefits of triangulation of the bridge structure. Prior to adding them, the only rigidity came from the aluminum panels (web) and they were cracked along the seat angle - so no rigidity at all in that case.
 
Are you referring to the diagonal struts added? Those give the rear bulkhead better rigidity - less flex back there. The benefits of triangulation of the bridge structure. Prior to adding them, the only rigidity came from the aluminum panels (web) and they were cracked along the seat angle - so no rigidity at all in that case.
yes that's what I was wondering. The old styles had that angle on the rear so was wondering if you were just mimicking it.
 
Installed the fender supports this morning, plus a piece of angle that holds everything in proper alignment. Eventually, after the aluminum is riveted in place, I'll install the bumper over the aluminum. Then I cut the .090" thick 6061-T6 aluminum sheet into 19" wide lengths with my Milwaukee metal circular saw. Placed the pieces in location and drilled them up. The .090" thick aluminum is tough to curve, I'll remove the temporary angle, finish bending the aluminum down than install the bumper and bumper supports, etc.


IMG_7948 copy.jpegIMG_7951 copy.jpegIMG_7957 copy.jpegIMG_7953 copy.jpegIMG_7958 copy.jpegIMG_7959 copy.jpeg
 
Finished the fenders, fabricated a new bumper and bumper mounts. Fitting the fuel tank, got some nice days here this weekend so will finish painting and get things put back together a little more.

IMG_7982 copy.jpegIMG_7989 copy.jpegIMG_7986 copy.jpegIMG_7993 copy.jpegIMG_7994 copy.jpegIMG_7995 copy.jpeg
 
Thanks PJL, I‘m enjoying the reassembly, nice to see it going back together, unfortunately, the 70 degree weather means it will likely be next year before it see snow.
 
  • Like
Reactions: PJL
Thanks PJL, I‘m enjoying the reassembly, nice to see it going back together, unfortunately, the 70 degree weather means it will likely be next year before it see snow.
I have had my cat out at the end of may. Do not give up hope. Even a small run will show if anything needs "tweaked" and give you plenty of time to adjust before the grand entrance next winter.
 
I have had my cat out at the end of may. Do not give up hope. Even a small run will show if anything needs "tweaked" and give you plenty of time to adjust before the grand entrance next winter.
Yes, a test run will be required - so I can find all the loose nuts and bolts and make adjustments and discover all the things I missed or didn't get quite right.

Spent the day putting the tracks back on - followed Lyndon's tracks off - tracks on procedure and it worked well for a one man operation. Left side was easy, bumping the starter to get it round the sprocket, right side was more difficult because bumping the starter drives the left track, so I jacked it up, then it went pretty quick. I'll make new tracks up this summer when it's warm, the grousers and guides I cleaned with the citric acid bath are still rust free after 3 months in the un-protected shed.

Still plenty to do, but the big stuff is done. Engine runs good, clutch works much more smoothly, still need to bleed the brakes - not enough time in the day. This retirement business is a lot of work :)

IMG_8032 copy.jpegIMG_8033 copy.jpegIMG_8035 copy.jpegIMG_8038 copy.jpegIMG_8039 copy.jpegIMG_8040 copy.jpegIMG_8043 copy.jpeg
 
OK, been a fun few days bleeding brakes. Finally figured out my replacement brake reservoir was mounted too low, so temporarily mounted it higher on the air intake and then it started working. Pressure bled the system and now I have brakes. Also adjusted the handbrake and they work now as well. I ordered a new reservoir that will mount easier and higher than the old one and also will allow me to access it without special tubes and funnels.

While waiting for th reservoir to show up I started installing the windows, finished bolting the tracks - still have to adjust the right one a bit. Got some stickers on it and just tidying up dozens of little things (like bolting in the seats permanently and install nuts on bolts that for some reason did not get nuts :rolleyes:

IMG_8057 copy.jpegIMG_8061 copy.jpegIMG_8064 copy.jpegIMG_8066 copy.jpegIMG_8071 copy.jpegIMG_8077 copy.jpeg
 
hope you have better luck with mirrors than I did, after the second set, I gave up. Too much low hanging limbs and brush where I run.
I’m thinking about a rear camera, saw one on another machine somewhere. I have one in my bus, it’s quite useful.
 
Top