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Snow removal

clr8ter

New member
Anyone ever build a snow cat specifically for snow removal from their driveway? Mine is about 800' long, and I need something seeing as how the neighbor's plow truck we share burnt up this last snowstorm.

I'd want to build something specifically for snow plowing on pavement, diesel, single seat. I'm mostly unsure about how to build the drive system, I'd like a hydro drive so the tracks can go FWD & Rev independently.
 
I help my neighbor plow his driveway a couple of times a week. Its 1.5 miles long, and he uses a pisten bully 200. The cat does a fair job, except with the steel grousers you end up leaving 6-8 inches of snow on the drive way , then we have to trim out using the p/U with a plow. If we do that then it will set up smooth and hard.
 
get an sw they are heavy the newer ones are hydrostatic drive and have rubber tracks if cost is no ofstruction get a tucker terra with a plow
 
i think so if you want tracks get a set of podd tracks to stick under your cummins powered dodge
 
I use a Bobcat 763H (High Flow hydraulics) with an Erskine 66" snow blower on my driveway. We get a ton of snow (Park City, UT) and this system works really well. It has an enclosed heated cab and it's just slick. Last night it was snowing hard and the wind was howling. No problem...

If I was going to do it again; I'd go with the Bobcat and snow blower. It works that well...
 
I like plows and snow blowers. I would love to have a Unimog404 with the big Snow Blower Auger attachment on front with another 404 running up the rear with a blade to clean up if needed.
 
I use a Bobcat 763H (High Flow hydraulics) with an Erskine 66" snow blower on my driveway. We get a ton of snow (Park City, UT) and this system works really well. It has an enclosed heated cab and it's just slick. Last night it was snowing hard and the wind was howling. No problem...

If I was going to do it again; I'd go with the Bobcat and snow blower. It works that well...

A blade for long fast stretches would be nice too. I agree a Skidsteer with studded tires or chains is a very versatile tool. I'd love to have one some day but it is probably over kill for me these days.
 
I find this combination unbeatable for our deep snow conditions where plows get banked in:[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GYku0xoAmh4"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GYku0xoAmh4[/ame]

The unimog clears the 1/2 mi. of driveway and lane for the highway, and the skidsteer gets in close and up high. I haven't used a plow for at least 5 years now, probably never will again. Once you've been blown, you'll never go back.
 
I've got a 50hp Kubota 4x4 tractor with an 8' light snow bucket I built that works farily well. Most times I doze a path then go back and move the heavier spots.

We get 2-6 ft drifts regularly.

I really want a front mounted snow blower but the cost is ridiculous.

Now for my Stupid idea I've been thinking of buying two of the widest gas powered walmart snow blowers I can find then weld them together and put a quick attach on the back so I can run it on the front of my tractor.

Might have about $1200 in it. Much better than 9-10K for a real tractor front mounted blower.

What do you all think about that idea? How stupid is that?

Cletis
 
The rear mounted blower isn't that bad. It's nice to have the bucket up front for when you need it and the rear blower adds good weight for scooping.
 
Still looking at 4K for a rear mount and one heck of a kink in the neck.

I have trouble going foward and not destroying everything in my path, let alone going in reverse.

Cletis
 
Dang folks, with that much snow just have a daisycutter dropped, guaranteed to clear 3 footaball fields or your hearing back
 
It's a novel idea. Have you thougt about getting a used 3 pt. blower and converting it to hydraulic drive? I think you would be much happier with the results. Things you would need: PTO hydraulic pump (~300-$400), suitable hyd. motor (~200-$300), hyd. valve (~$60), hyd. hoses (~$50), hyd. tank/ filter (~$100), sprockets/chain for speed inrease motor> blower (~$30), and last but not least, a used blower. I see 4' to 6' wide blowers for sale commonly in the few 100 to $1500 range. For an inestment of only slighty more ( maybe less!) than the ghetto W-Mart solution, you'd end up with something built for the job at hand.

I've got a 50hp Kubota 4x4 tractor with an 8' light snow bucket I built that works farily well. Most times I doze a path then go back and move the heavier spots.

We get 2-6 ft drifts regularly.

I really want a front mounted snow blower but the cost is ridiculous.

Now for my Stupid idea I've been thinking of buying two of the widest gas powered walmart snow blowers I can find then weld them together and put a quick attach on the back so I can run it on the front of my tractor.

Might have about $1200 in it. Much better than 9-10K for a real tractor front mounted blower.

What do you all think about that idea? How stupid is that?

Cletis
 
Round here when the snow gets big, the big Blowers come out:brows:
 

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Here in farm country we use what we have laying around.....It is about finished, We took a 1970's vintage New Idea Uni system 4 wheel drive hydrostatic "mule" and are in the process of having a local machine shop mount our Lundell snow blower on the front. Will post pics when it is done. Hopefully we get some more snow to try it out on. It has a 150 hp Perkins AT 354 engind in it. I sure hopes it works as well as we are thinking...And other than the shop bill, I already had the major components, so fairly cheap as well. These Uni System Mules bring scrap price, unless they have a snow blower attached....

Regards, Kirk
 
300, my former boss's brother did the same thing. Works really well! He cleans his yard out in good order.

Makes me wanna go buy one!
 
Cheapest way into a hydo drive machine I know of!

Thanks Trakternut! I am feeling better about it now....

Kirk
 
I think Mtmogs idea of converting a 3-pt hitch blower to hydraulic is real good!!! Now just have to take the neck twisting problem out of the picture!!!y(which is why the 3-pt hitch blowers are so cheap). How about mounting a rear 3pt hitch blower to the front of the tractor like a plow setup or as a quick attach on a front end loader???? On a front end loader a blower could go up real high drifts!!! Would definately need a good size 4x4 tractor.
 
I've also thought about mounting a rear blower on the front with a quick attach. The front pto for my tractor is actually reasonably priced.

I thought about building a HD chain case that would put the output drive line about a foot higher than the pto in the front then just use a driveline with a very long slip joint off the case to drive the blower.

I did wonder how bad the vibration of the case and drive would be though.
 
Right, that's what I was driving at. The hydraulics let you put the blower wherever you want. Heck, mount one on the end of a knuckle crane or a boom mower and do your roof!

I think Mtmogs idea of converting a 3-pt hitch blower to hydraulic is real good!!! Now just have to take the neck twisting problem out of the picture!!!y(which is why the 3-pt hitch blowers are so cheap). How about mounting a rear 3pt hitch blower to the front of the tractor like a plow setup or as a quick attach on a front end loader???? On a front end loader a blower could go up real high drifts!!! Would definately need a good size 4x4 tractor.
 
Seems like fit a plow frame with a rear blower and mount it on front of a 4x4 tractor and you just need the hydraulics!!!! Doesen't seem to hard, but I have never seen anyone do that???????
 
Skidsteers use this idea for the snowblowers that they use. Blower mounts to the quick tach system, hydraulics run the blower. Gotta have a high output pump on the machine to run the blower.
Same can be done with a tractor. You'll need to find out how many GPM the orbit motor running the blower needs and be sure the tractors hydraulics can handle the demand.
 
But you will loose quite a bit of HP in the process....

If memory serves me correctly Hydorostatic drives are at best 50-60% effeicient, meaning for each ten HP you get back 5-6 hp at the the orbit or blower motor. The rest of the energy is given off as heat. Mechanical drives can be as good as 90%, but can be nearly as bad as the Hydro if the power changes directions to many times through several gear sets. Rule of thumb for gears of a 3-5% drop for each paired gear set in you drive train. Some thing to keep in mind...

Regards, Kirk
 
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with hydro drive a 100 hp pump and motor hung on the 3 point in the back would be the way to go to run your blower also you would want to plumb the cab heater into your aux motor so you had good heat while inching along.that's how we did it on those old norland split packages the newer loader mount units were a cold ride when you were not on the road .
 
So for those of you who did not know what a New Idea Uni system "mule" is....Here is mine with the newly attached snow blower....

UniSnowBlower001.jpg


UniSnowBlower002.jpg


UniSnowBlower002.jpg


UniSnowBlower003.jpg


I will be trying it out this morning....

Regards, Kirk
 
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