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POLL: What brand snowcat do you own?

What brand snowcat do you own/operate?

  • AKTIV Snow Trac, Trac Master, or Snow Master

    Votes: 104 14.3%
  • KRISTI KT2, KT3, KT4 or KT7

    Votes: 10 1.4%
  • THIOKOL/DMC/LMC (any of the numerous models)

    Votes: 189 26.0%
  • BOMBARDIER (J5, Bombi, B12, C18, etc)

    Votes: 153 21.0%
  • TUCKER (classic steel track)

    Votes: 74 10.2%
  • TUCKER (rubber track or terra track)

    Votes: 63 8.7%
  • VMC

    Votes: 5 0.7%
  • Other (please list the brand/model in the thread below)

    Votes: 62 8.5%
  • NONE, but I enjoy the Snowcat forums anyway

    Votes: 40 5.5%
  • NONE, I visit the ForumsForums but don't frequent the snowcat area.

    Votes: 42 5.8%
  • NONE YET, but I am looking for a snowcat.

    Votes: 76 10.4%

  • Total voters
    728
It appears that the body has had some modifications that might affect the "swampability" of your spryte. If you're not planning on floating, then I can see the mods are for the better.

I wouldn't be afraid to make new cleats from scratch, I've made plenty so far and it is a piece of cake...just takes alot of 1" box tube.
 
Fubar- Not much swamp / muskeg 'round here but the powder can be deep & light so maybe if I had a removable canvas top for the open bed I'd be in business.
I took one of the grouser bars off the kitty today and here is what I've got. Overall lenght @ 25". Seems like some 1" square tube and some 1/4" x 1" flat bar stock would keep me busy in the shop awhile.....wonder how to replace the triangle posts on the wheel guides?.
 

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2" X 1" box tube.

Lay it down flat, make first cut at angle, your first triangle falls off, next cut straight, second triangle falls off. next cut at and angle third piece falls off, so on and so on.



If you need I can try to get pictures, but it won't be until Mon or Tues.
 
My drawing abilities are pretty poor, but I hope it get the idea across.
 

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Fubar-
Thank You mucho....what would you think about making them with aluminum rather than steel? Seems to me that avoiding rust is the main thing.
 
Welding alum currently cost me about $1.00 per inch. And I don't think alum would hold up. Couple of things happen,
one is of course mechanical scraping.
second, look at your cleats where the idlers ride, if they are like ours that is worn heavily, some all the way through, and
third is what causes them to break, that being, generally. stradling rocks. With the single boggie down the middle there is a lot of weight in the center of the cleat. Bombardiers have two rows of boggies and spread the weight out better, making them, I believe, better summer rigs than thiokols.
Stick with the steel, it's cheaper, last longer.
Hard face them if you can, drive easy in the summer, fix it up nice and purty then sell it to me cheap!!! LOL
 
Also, there is a thread here by corkuck I think, he has good photos on rebuilding his tracks...go look at what he has done, very good looking job!!!
 
Stay with steel; easily available, stringer, and really, what would you be using by not using it? A few pounds???
 
Here are some Bombardiers I previously owned and the last one I presently have and working on it very slow. All Bombardiers around here not much of anything else It's too bad!!:thumb:
 

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Don wanted a picture so finally here is my SW 48. It has widened tracks and we use it to pull a groomer for our dog sled trail. The track was widened it looks like by extending angle iron off the grousers and adding 1 foot of track each side. I think that this really helps us, though it can bog down off the trail base when I am pulling the drag so I know we are still heavy. This former sidewalk plow can push a #4%& load of snow but with the small blade it doesn't get called upon for that task very often as we use a Toolcat for driveway snowplowing.

Heater runs great and cold start with a prime (minus 30 celsius). I need to do the right window that is clouded plexiglass (single piece). Had 3 new solid wheels put on and one sprocket this year and new starter and solenoid. Carb has to run with some choke all the time - mechanic says that it needs full rebuild or replacement as the jets are worn.

Have had it for a couple of years now and learning how to best drive and groom for best trail. I do have to keep at the grooming to ensure that the base is always there. If there is too much fresh snow I have to go out without the groomer to pack down. The trail sets up super after grooming with the drag for our sprint racing dogs. We are in northern Saskatchewan and so not alot of hills but steady amounts of snow arrive and cold temps. The blades on the groomer help cut icy trails and I often 'pull' new snow from the side of the trail to cover any problem spots.

The single seat is a down side as my young son would like to come for the ride - maybe converting to a wider seat (relocate hydraulic plow levers and add perhaps a CJ rear seat) Yes my wife approves and no she has never got to drive it...I tell her its loud, smelly and noisy.:brows:

Electric lifts on the groomer wired to switch on the steering. Its a mogul master groomer copy I was told.

Bought via post ebay auction from the US. Was easily shipped and I met at the border. Wish I was more handy and had a super shop like some of you guys. The project restorations make me drool with eny!! I have learned alot from this forum and now that I can do pictures I will try to get some more posted of my unit. Ask if there is anything you want me to take a picture of to post.
 

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Here is a photo of the machine in the shop. Replacing lights etc. Should be ready for next season. The tri-flex tiller that was on the back is for sale.
 

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Hi, new member here...

I live between Fairbanks and North Pole, Alaska.
Just bought a 1744 Tucker SnoCat at the Alyeska auction several weeks ago.
Lyndon Strother was a wealth of info before I bought (and after), and pointed me to this site.

Looking forward to reading thru the threads...

Thanks for providing this site...

Railroad Bob

Alaska - Land of the Individual, and other Endangered Species
 

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Thanks, been using it for years. Originally had a Tshirt with that on it, it was the title of a play performed here in Fairbanks.

In the late 70s bought the shirt in Fairbanks, was hitch-hiking on the Kenai Peninsula over 400 miles away, got picked up by a girl that was in the play, go figure!
The shirt got me the ride.

Lost the shirt a few weeks after, but never forgot the title
 
Fubar- Not much swamp / muskeg 'round here but the powder can be deep & light so maybe if I had a removable canvas top for the open bed I'd be in business.
I took one of the grouser bars off the kitty today and here is what I've got. Overall lenght @ 25". Seems like some 1" square tube and some 1/4" x 1" flat bar stock would keep me busy in the shop awhile.....wonder how to replace the triangle posts on the wheel guides?.

Not sure if these would work for you but if its just for the snow.
The crosslink is 28" long 1" wide comes in a left and right. They use two 8" belts.
 

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1 Thiokol Spryte 10 passenger- Installing new tracks as we speak
1 Foremost Surego 5 passenger- Just got it don't know much about it yet
 
JUST PURCHASED A 1971 342 TUCKER :brows: WITH A SLANT-6 DODGE AND A 4-SPEED TRANS.. LIKE EVERY ONE ELSE I NEED A SHIT PILE OF TRACK ROLLERS:sad:
 
Frandee, Model D, S/N 37, with stearing ski, year 1952. Manufactured by the Utah Scientific Research Foundation, Utah State Agricultural College. Found in a farmers bone yard, was used for hauling feed to cattle in the winter, many, many years ago. Complete restoration underway. Additional photos are in this forum if you are interested, search for Frandee under GMoose.
 

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