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Old "Woody" Restoration (b12) ~w/PHOTOS

Old Trucker.....I will try & help you post your pics......The FIRST thing you have to have is your pics. stored on your PC. Now when you want post a pic. you first type in your text like you have been doing, when your done with that you scroll down on that same page until you see MANAGE ATTACHMENTS then click on that, then a box will come up with six (6) BROWS box's you click on the first one (or the top one) then a menu will come up and in that menu will be where your pics are stored (you have to know what title you stored your pics under) then click on that title and your pics will appear then click on the pic you want to put on the forum and then your screen will go back to the box with all the BROWS box's and you repeat the process if you want with a second pic you can do this up to six times or (six different pics) or just once (one pic) Now when your done installing your pics you click on the UPLOAD box and give your PC some time to upload your pics When it's done you then click on the SUBMIT REPLY box under the box where you have wrote all your text and again give your PC a little time to do this, it should be less than a minute. One NOTE to remember BEFORE you post any pics you should EDIT them and what I mean by that is you need to re-size them and how you do that is when you are at your pic you want to post RIGHT click on it and a menu will come up, click on EDIT then you will see where you can (RESIZE custom width x height) and in the first box or (the left box) I type in 800 and it will fill in the right box for you then click OK then click on the X at the very top right corner of the page then it will ask you if you want to save the changes and you will hit YES then it will go back to your pics and NOW when you click on that same pic to select it, it will be at the correct size to fit the forum page. I should say you only need to RESIZE your pics if your camera takes your pics with dimensions greater than 1000 and you can find this out by just putting your curser on your pic and it will give you all the info on that pic and if you see the dimensions at 900 or greater RESIZE down to 800 if your pic is already 800 or less then you will NOT have to resize to make them fit the forums page. This is what works on MY PC. that runs VISTA, I hope this at least gets you in the ball park, Hopefully somebody with more knowledge in computers can lend some help also. Let me know how far you get before you get stuck, then we'll go from there.
Kevin
 
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I think I may finally have a pic on here. This one is a 1955 that's for sale. A summer special going @ $7,500.00

Here's a couple of inside pics.
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Weatherby I tried photo bucket to post pics & it seems to work. The size is a little big, but like the old saying goes if you don't succeed at first try, try again. Here is a 1948 b12cs that a fellow in Maine is restoring for the festival in Valcourt, Que. being held in February/2010.

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Below are the gauges he had restored. I think they look good...
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Sorry about not having these up before. I'm trying to get used to my new camera.

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I'm starting to clean up between the frame rails & cross members so I can slide in the new belly pan in two pieces & get it welded in place. Then new angle iron for the sides & new plate for around the engine area. So far I've lucked out good with parts. I bought 3 rims, a brand new smooth tire(sticker still on it!!) & 2 boggies for $25 bucks. Next week I will pick up a ski, two front doors, a motor door & I think a rad door. All for about $40 bucks of gas.
I can get a 1996 Ford 6 cylinder fuel injected engine & trans for $ 300.00. I'm a little uneasy about the idea of the engine. I sort of want a carbureted engine. What are your thoughts on this ??
Oh well.. I got to go make more phone calls on more parts.

I forgot to say that they put 2 & 1/2 coats of etching primer on & then had about 1 & 1/2 coats of industrial primer left so on it went also. Beggars can't be particular !!!
OT.
 
I can get a 1996 Ford 6 cylinder fuel injected engine & trans for $ 300.00. I'm a little uneasy about the idea of the engine. I sort of want a carbureted engine. What are your thoughts on this ??

If you can get the wiring right with it, it should be a good upgrade.
 
Another couple of pics of how I am trying to do this right. I had the bogie's off & cleaned up & reinstalled it all with a fresh coat of grease & all new nuts & bolts. As you can see there was still lots of grease after 50 yrs. of sitting. I bought the six springs down to be blasted so I can prime, paint & install them.

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'

I think I may change all the inner sleeves that hold the needles in place. The two on the back axle have grooves worn into them where the needles were touching it. Also the 2 caps that hold the bearings in the boggie are worn pretty bad. Luckily I had a couple extras.
You can see the grooving in the sleeve in the boggie. These are not too bad. It's just the 2 with the track adjusters. I measured the axle shaft & it is only out of round by 2 thousands of an inch. Some bogies had 40 needles in them & others had 39 & 38 in them.

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If any one thinks I am doing something wrong or going overboard with any of this PLEASE let me know. We're doing this on a wing & a prayer & hoping for miracles !!!
The Old Trucker
 
Here's a couple of pics of the b12 being restored in Maine. Hopefully mine will look as good as this in a year or so.

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Everything is going slow, I have to depend on others to do the welding for me but I'm keep busy gathering up parts, getting the metal for the "belly pan" & angle framing around the diff. I picked up the 2 original front doors, one of the original motor doors & what looks like the original wiper motor. I need to find out how the wiring works on this motor. I looked around the internet & was talking to a fellow in the UK. Here's what he said.

Sorry Claude- I have only experience with the Lucas 14W motor, yours is much, much older.
Regards Steve @ sVc

Here's another email from him

The Lucas Empire went out of business a good 15 to 20 years ago. The small management buyout companies that were spawned off from the broken-up group will only know about what they have been making recently.
What car is this?
There will probably be an owners club who can help you with this.
Regards Steve @ sVc

Here are a couple of pics of the wiper motor.
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These are the wiper posts.

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They turn by way of a long screw that turns from the motor. From what info I can get I think it is a 2 speed motor with a park feature wired in.
If you look up s-v-c.co.uk/prod_wipers.html & scroll down you'll see how it all works. My wiring is different than what's there. I have more pics here somewhere. I'm not the best when it comes to computers.
Here is a pic of the doors. A new skin outside & new wood inside & they're done. Sorry I didn't get a inside pic.

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I know I'm crazy, tell me something new.

OT.
 
OT'S UPDATE !!!!

To update everyone I have bought a 1984 f 150 pickup with the 300 in it. Original owner bought it new & had her for 20 yrs. before he passed on. A friend told me it was parked in his garage every night. I guess she started going down hill after that. Speedometer shows 65,000 km. My friend drove her home ( 39 miles) with me bringing up the rear. There was no smoke at all. He said she had lots of power going up the hills. He even tramped her down a couple of times & took off like a scaled cat. Starts first turn of the key & idles good too. I want to tune her up before taking it out to see how she is. I was talking to a friend & here's part of what he says.
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you didn't mention in the first message that the wiper motor was lucas.but i thought that it looked like it.i have been dealing with british built cars for many years and i have a 1969 british built landrover that i believe has the same motor.it is out to my sons house in glovertown right now.as you were saying the truck looks in pretty good shape for the year.with so few kilos,it should be a good motor.the 4.9 engine is 299.016 cubic inch which is a 300.the baked on dirt could be very difficult to remove.i dont know of any simple way.sometimes a steam cleaner can do it.but i have had to use a thin blade narrow scraper sometimes and lots of time.usually it is taken off by hot dipping.the only other way that i know of is when you get the engine out you may be able to use 4 1/2 inch mini grinder with a rotary wire brush put on in place of the grinding wheel.you can get those at most auto stores.as for the plugs,if they are rusted in penetrating oil may not work but it wouldn't hurt to try it. sometimes i have taken them out with an impact gun with the air turned down on the gun so that it wouldn't hit too hard,where by pulling a steady strain with a ratchet might break it.there is no guarantee that they wont break.if any do you should be able to get the piece out with an acetelene torch and an easy out.but it is better to do it now than when you get the engine in the bomber.

Here's the engine /trans donor vehicle.

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Here's the oil pressure gauge. It reads between 30-35 pounds pressure.
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With a snip here & a snip there, join the black wire to the purple one & fire er' up. We worked a bit backwards with the wiring because we didn't have a schematics of it. So we snipped one wire, started her, shut her down, sniped another & kept going till we eliminated what we didn't need.

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Like I said this project is going to be slow going due to my limited amount of experience & my health. I have lots of time on my hands plus the BOSS says she don't mind as long as it's not costing her money. That's where the stash comes into play.......:biggrin:....

You got The Old Trucker just putting along the road doing the ol' double nickel. 10/4 for sure !!! :whistling: :whistling:
 
I was reading what your freind said about getting the baked on dirt off, I just used some engine degreaser on my Tucker I think its made by Gunk, I used the whole can and soaked er down waited 5-10 minutes(the drive to the local car wash) and used the high pressure soap and it came out pretty clean. If the motor was out of the rig it probably would have come out alot cleaner. Nice work on the Bomber and its never a bad thing to over build it pays off in the end.
 
THANKS !!! I forgot to mention that I have the engine out & covered over on my utility tlr. I used a can of Spray 9, oven cleaner, plus 2 cans of Gunk & she came out pretty good.
I'm putting up a small shed so I can get a bit more room in my garage to put the engine in & work on it. I'll get a pic or 2 of the engine when I get it inside. This one went into a bomber last yr. The transmission looks similar to mine. If I can get mine looking as good as this one I'll be very pleased.

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Below is a remote oil bypass adapter that this fellow had to use to get the clearance for the engine. Looks like I'll have to do the same.

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There is not much space to play around in the engine bay as you can see in the pic below.

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Anyone got thoughts about putting a coat of primer on the motor before painting it ?? I don't want a $ 2,000 job either.

OT.
 
This is a 1947 b12 being restored in Maine. It's the same model as mine. I hope mine will turn out as good as this one.
Next week he'll start at the skis, wheels & suspension. Man that's one beautiful piece.
OT.

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Sorry for not keeping you updated but I can't get pics from my camera to my computer. I have the new "belly pan" welded in place & it looks great. Here are a few pics of my engine. Some are before & after. I have more & I will post them when I get this computer problem fixed up.

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I know how upset Boggie gets when he can't see what your talking about. I have more pics on my camera. When I get this figured out I'll put a few more on. Like I said before it's going to be slow going on account of my ol' ticker, but we'll getter done !!!!
 
Blue paint sure does wonders to improving the looks!

How about you get the rest of the photos out of the camera so we can see some more?!?
 
for those of you who have need for flat head chrysler motors i might have a line on sone engines in crates a friend of mine bought some property with a wharehouse full of old military surplus i hope to take a run out there next weekend see whats there she has expressed some interest in selling some of te stuff off i will take some pics in case any one is interested
 
Here's an update since last time. Sorry I am slow, like the turtle !! I guess it's like they say "a picture is worth a thousand words". Starting to fabricate a differential brake. Will update you later.
The Old Trucker

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Thanks Sno-ops. My neighbour/ mechanic/welder has helped out alot.. Sorry I'm slow in making faster progress, but I have to take it easy on the ole' ticker.
Guess it's just like Xmas time......guaranteed to come after awhile.

The Old Trucker
 
Sorry folks this has been a slow summer for me. I have been thinking about putting power steering on my bombardier. I can cut the steering column & tie in a flow control valve tied to a push/pull cylinder & run it off my p/s pump that came with the 300 Ford. Only thing I don't like about that is if I have any trouble with it on the trails I lose all steering function. I want to keep the standard steering just in case of something like this. Anyone have an idea on how I can do this? Below are a couple of pics of where I am on this.

Thanks from the old trucker

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I'd be inclined to adapt a power steering box or power steering rack to replace that system. If you want more power add hydraulic rams controlled by the box or rack.
(Do a google search for "redneck ram" to get ideas on how to control steering rams with a power steering box.)
 
If you get yourself an "orbital valve" off of a tractor or fork lift, these will operate a ram for steering. They will also still work without a functioning pump (with some effort).

I used this method on an old monster mud truck years ago...
 
go with the orbital valve and you can get a steering cylinder off one of thse old dae woo or cat forklifts and it will mount like a rack and pinion all you have to make are the tierod endsyou will have some steering with the orbital valve to limp home with
 
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