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Newbie tucker adventure

true.

I'm going to directly ground the voltage regulator to the ground post the ..... hey, they ground this thing to the chassis, there is a stud or bolt right on the battery tray frame and that's where the ground cable from the battery goes. Is that normal? Why wouldn't they ground to the engine block?
 
Look for a flat braided strap going to the block. I would be taking every connection apart and using a wire wheel in a drill work it down to shiny metal then do the same for the cables. Cold shows up bad connections quick. The mopar regulators have a bad track record for temp changes as well. It would not hurt to have a spare so I would try that next. Make sure it is mounted on clean metal also.Clean up all the bolts and screws that attch anything to the motor and frame. Then coat them with a good spray battery terminal protector.
 
dave your ground from the from the battery to the engine is good for now or it wouldn't crank the first place resistance rears it's ugly head in under high load which would be the crank circut you should have a ground going from the frame to the engine and a ground going from the frame to the body i normaly run the ground to the block by the starter and than branch off from the block to the frame and body with smaller cable that way you don't have to ground your engine through battery wire or expensive straps that being said have you full fielded the alternator yet lets see if the alternator is working first than we can track down the rest of the stuff. let's do this one thing at a time ive made lots of money in years past because i know how to systematicaly troubble shoot these systems
 
Very frustrated now, it's an electronic type of regulator system with 2 field connectors.


I have a wiring diagram, field 2 is a yellow wire that goes to the voltage regulator, field 1 is a brown wire that goes to a relay.

I brought the alt into the parts store & bench tested it, it looked like it was working but it was making a questionable 12V at best. A new one tested out closer to 15.

So, I bought a new one, put it in and it still won't charge.

I guess I'll pick up another voltage regulator, I chased the wires and checked all connectors, ran a ground directly to the voltage regulator body, nuthin.

God i hate mopar wiring.

I'm ready to start ripping & stick a single wire delco in there.
 
i will have to scan it tomorrow but i will post a simple wiring diagram of how the system works only one wire is the field the other one is the stator wire and has to run through a resistor wire or light the system is prety simple if the wires get hooked up backwards it wont charge try switching them around
 
I tried switching them, followed the original tucker diagram & it all looks good.... I'll pick up another voltage regulator tomorrow, and I'll check for anything you can provide here. I appreciate the help.
 
I agree, but maybe go the extra distance and get a 'one wire' alternator and ditch the regulator and relay at the same time.:wink:
 
one wre alternators are a pos i've had more problems with them on boats and equipment than you can shake a stick at the chrysler system is a good one and the alternators are known to last a long time there may have been a regulator failure due to the bad alternator the beauty of the mopar and motor craft systems you can mount 2 next to each other in the fire wall if one goes bad you just un plug the bad one and plug your new one after having rebuilt hundreds of alternator the number one problem is the regulator followed by rectifire failure usualy caused by jumper cables or running on a low or bad battery if you change to a internaly regulated alternator now when the regulator goes bad you have to replace the alternator the plus side of the internaly regulated alt. is less wiring you still need one that is switched with a key or regulator failure will happen sooner than later when you shut the engine down as the regulator spikes while engine rpm drop and the regulator trys to maintain voltage output
 
i'm trying to scan in the schematic now if you bypass all tucker wiring all you will hve to do is pick up ign power at the regulator and you can wire the regulator your self .
 
yes also you see the hot wire comming off the ignition check that you have power to it and if you ground the other wire at the regulator and the alternator puts out the problem is with the regulator not the harness personaly to wire it with an arctic grade wire and solder and shrink wrap would be good pm because most automotive wire dosn't like cold weather.
 
when we bench tested the old and new alternators & hit the "load" button or what ever, we got a red light that indicated "bad diode" for both the old and the new regulators... So I have that in the back of my mind as well... could have got a bad alternator.
 
yes you could if the light was for alternator remember the regulator is external so if their machine is supposed to check the regulator on an alternator with an internal regulator you will show a fault if by grounding the field wire you have good out put next step check regulator and wiring also one of these field wires have to have ign power to power the other has to have ground to energize the rotating fields in your alternator to by pass all wiring and test alternator only a couple of wires and aligator clips would make it work one from the battery stud to field 1 the other from field 2 to ground start it up and run it one field wire should be 12 volts switched the other wire goes streight to the regulator to be grounded progressivly in a way to regulate out put
 
good sounds like one of the automotive wires broke in the harness when the jacket cracks it's just a matter if time before the strands break as you can see the system is quite easy to work with and the best part when the key is shut off every thinng is shut down so no draws
 
Charging system and everything else is working great. I went for an adventure last night.

I made a new snowmobile trail! lol!!

We live in a rural area and the closest groomed trail is a little over a mile from our house and reaching that trail via snowmobile has always been a challenge. Well i fixed that last night. I pulled a 10' wide drag behind the tucker and made a really nice trail which connects us to the nearest trail maintained by our local snowmobile club. I stretched the trail past our driveway up a couple miles for neighbors to use as well.

So I did about 3 miles of trail.

I had a GPS along and I discovered that my top speed is around 10 MPH at best.

I'm thinking it's time for those 6.17:1 gears to go away lol!!
 
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