Your brakes on the Track Master is located outside where your Bronze drive sprockets are.
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Just picked up my first Snowtrac. Couple of questions.
- Thread starter dansvan
- Start date
Thats what I wanted to hear.
Dan,
You need to pull the variator discs and pull the bearings out. REAL EASY. The disc on the right, you see the two bars going over and resting on the smaller disc on top of the larger one. Thats a bearing holder. The bearing is undernieth it. The same is true on the other side just undernieth. Pull those and clean the bearings really well. The grease usually hardens up over the years of just sitting and is a mass of semi hard crud. I found out you can pump good grease in but it just oozes out and the bearings never really get any new grease. Those bearing (all of them actually) are easy to get. If you havent noticed when you drove it onto the trailer the variator belt needs adjusting. We can walk you through that as well.
You need to pull the variator discs and pull the bearings out. REAL EASY. The disc on the right, you see the two bars going over and resting on the smaller disc on top of the larger one. Thats a bearing holder. The bearing is undernieth it. The same is true on the other side just undernieth. Pull those and clean the bearings really well. The grease usually hardens up over the years of just sitting and is a mass of semi hard crud. I found out you can pump good grease in but it just oozes out and the bearings never really get any new grease. Those bearing (all of them actually) are easy to get. If you havent noticed when you drove it onto the trailer the variator belt needs adjusting. We can walk you through that as well.
Ok some more pics.
Fresh air unit. Bent but can be saved.
Looks like someone ran into it. How can that happen?
OUCH!
Maybe your friend should have been watching out for such things instead of riding along in the back like a giddy 6 year old!
Just a quick update. I'm itching to get going on this thing. I received my track guides and bronze wheel from a gentleman in Nevada. The new variator belt is on the way. The adapter from Kennedy will be coming soon. (secret squirrel motor...) The modification chamber has been errected and is awaiting the current project to leave so the trackmaster can take up residence. The tow rig has been turbo'd and has had it's studded tires installed. Picked up a trailer for hauling it and it's awaiting a few mods as well. Snow is creeping down the mountains up here, 8-10 inches that you can dive up into if you want. AAAAUUUUGGGHHHHHHHHH!!!!!! Not enough hours in a day!
Just remember the stock transaxle can take about 100 hp before it needs to be built up. If your going with a higher than 100 hp motor have some strengthen the transaxle. I have the name of a German transaxle mech that LYNDON uses on a regular basis.
After speaking with Kennedy engineering on this, he recommended a few minor improvements but said I should be fine if my trans. is in decent shape. I'll be pulling it apart to double check everything and do a few minor tweaks. Engine adapter is on the way! Heavy duty clutch too.
Just got it into the garage a few days ago. Started the teardown process. This thing has been ridden hard and put away wet. But thats ok, price was right and the satisfaction of seeing it completed will be that much sweeter. I ordered some tires yesterday, got some tubes coming, and purchased new brake cylinders. I pounded out the damaged front fender and have been going around tightening fasteners, replacing missing ones and wondering why there are an extra 200 holes drilled helter skelter all over this thing. Paint will be going on in a while.
You're welcome to come take a look whenever you make it down this way, hopefully it will be presentable in a month or two....
I guess these will be some more "before" pics.
Bracing previous owner installed under the fender. I wonder if they carried something heavy here? There is no damage underneath this, no missing fasteners or torn metal.
You're welcome to come take a look whenever you make it down this way, hopefully it will be presentable in a month or two....
I guess these will be some more "before" pics.
Bracing previous owner installed under the fender. I wonder if they carried something heavy here? There is no damage underneath this, no missing fasteners or torn metal.
Lookin' better! I have the same issues with 'hole-itis' in mine. When the wind blows it just goes right through her. I put a few plugs in but I'm just going to silicone them shut. That or find something to bolt in there.
Next time I am on my way to Anchortown, I'll get hold of you and see if we can get together.
Next time I am on my way to Anchortown, I'll get hold of you and see if we can get together.
One more thing while you have her up in the air. On the center boggie assemblies I have been noticing cracks on the square tubing welds against the frame. In fact, I broke an entire boggie off last spring. Quite a bit of noise, lots of knashing of teeth, really ugly scene when you're way the hell out in the toolies. Ended up walking out and leaving the machine behind. Mine are rewelded with the addition of some pretty serious gussets to keep that from happening again.
Have someone tig weld the holes. I had several panels replaced on mine.
Nah, to much trouble for all that. Like I said, no beauty queen. I'll find some small bolts and nuts to plug them up good.
Would rivets work to fill in the holes?
Well here is what was hiding under the rubber mat. Damage from loose tracks and broken grousers.
Right side wasnt as bad.
Here's the brace/repair that the previous owner installed. I cut this one in half and used the other half on the right side.
Cut off piece.
Installed on right side.
Damaged cowl section.
Repaired.
Top plate sandwiching original metal with bottom brace.
Aluminum plate repairing worn out bodty seam section.
Right side wasnt as bad.
Here's the brace/repair that the previous owner installed. I cut this one in half and used the other half on the right side.
Cut off piece.
Installed on right side.
Damaged cowl section.
Repaired.
Top plate sandwiching original metal with bottom brace.
Aluminum plate repairing worn out bodty seam section.
Turbo power!
Well I got this in the mail this past week.
Along with this.
I installed it on this...
And put this Chrsyler 2.2 Turbo in my Trackmaster.
Why? The air cooled Volkswagen engine makes around 50hp. Is carb'd. Is very prone to over heating in this application due to the air ducting tinwork around the engine being modified or removed to fit in the snowtrack. Poor exhaust routing options.
The Chrysler 2.2 Turbo is the small block Chevy of 4cyl's. This model is fuel injected, maked 150hp as it sits, and is easily modified safely for more. This motor makes real torque, not Honda style power in a narrow power band. For a few years in the late 80's it made more power and torque than the 360ci engines used in the full size Jeeps and the 318ci engines used in the Dodge trucks! It is very reliable as long as you do the required coolant changes etc. The most failure prone part is the distributer pick up assy. that is easily replaced and a spare can be kept in the glove box. I will have a real heater, and no more having to stop on long climbs or runs to let things cool down.
Plus all the benefits of modern fuel injection.
I lucked out big time on this engine swap. I took some measurements and decided to go for it. I figured some cutting and welding on the intake would be required to clear the belt variator steering assy. IT NEEDS NOTHING! WHOO HOO! I am going to clearance a few areas for my own piece of mind, and turn the idle air control motor 180 degrees so the connector clears, but thats it! I about lost my mind! Anyway, more pics.
Front view.
Side view.
Underside. I get to keep the flat skid/pan under the rig. No oilpan clearance issues.
Front side. Still room for radiator and fans.
Well I got this in the mail this past week.
Along with this.
I installed it on this...
And put this Chrsyler 2.2 Turbo in my Trackmaster.
Why? The air cooled Volkswagen engine makes around 50hp. Is carb'd. Is very prone to over heating in this application due to the air ducting tinwork around the engine being modified or removed to fit in the snowtrack. Poor exhaust routing options.
The Chrysler 2.2 Turbo is the small block Chevy of 4cyl's. This model is fuel injected, maked 150hp as it sits, and is easily modified safely for more. This motor makes real torque, not Honda style power in a narrow power band. For a few years in the late 80's it made more power and torque than the 360ci engines used in the full size Jeeps and the 318ci engines used in the Dodge trucks! It is very reliable as long as you do the required coolant changes etc. The most failure prone part is the distributer pick up assy. that is easily replaced and a spare can be kept in the glove box. I will have a real heater, and no more having to stop on long climbs or runs to let things cool down.
Plus all the benefits of modern fuel injection.
I lucked out big time on this engine swap. I took some measurements and decided to go for it. I figured some cutting and welding on the intake would be required to clear the belt variator steering assy. IT NEEDS NOTHING! WHOO HOO! I am going to clearance a few areas for my own piece of mind, and turn the idle air control motor 180 degrees so the connector clears, but thats it! I about lost my mind! Anyway, more pics.
Front view.
Side view.
Underside. I get to keep the flat skid/pan under the rig. No oilpan clearance issues.
Front side. Still room for radiator and fans.
Hood even closes! It will probably need a few minor mods, but I'll get to keep the original vehicle lines.
I'll be turning these vents around and adding more to let the hot air out.
Under the hood shot.
Now some clearance shots etc.
Throttle body.
Intake elbow and idle air motor. I'll be clearancing here slightly.
Bottom of intake and wastegate can.
Exhaust pointed straight out access panel for old Volks. motor.
Head on shot showing ample room on both sides.
I'll be cleaning everything up. Replacing a few seals. This is still mock up stage. But I'm going to be on the snow sooner than I thought. YAY!
I'll be turning these vents around and adding more to let the hot air out.
Under the hood shot.
Now some clearance shots etc.
Throttle body.
Intake elbow and idle air motor. I'll be clearancing here slightly.
Bottom of intake and wastegate can.
Exhaust pointed straight out access panel for old Volks. motor.
Head on shot showing ample room on both sides.
I'll be cleaning everything up. Replacing a few seals. This is still mock up stage. But I'm going to be on the snow sooner than I thought. YAY!
Excellent post. What is the weight of the motor?
I'm not certain. I'll pop it up on my 300lb. scale and see if it reads it. I've been doing research on this and have read that the Chryslers are lighter than the Ford 2.3 turbos that are a popular VW swap. Those running the 2.3 Fords are installing a HD strap kit on their transaxles and have had no issues. I'll be looking in to purchasing one for mine. They help keep the transaxle solid and add strength to help elimnate flex.
As for adding weight to the front of the vehicle and how it will affect performance in snow and handling we'll see. I've seen a few Snow Tracs with a 15 gallon fuel tanks mounted in the front on each side. 30x7lbs a gallon adds 210 lbs. I think this conversion will be close or slightly under that.
As for adding weight to the front of the vehicle and how it will affect performance in snow and handling we'll see. I've seen a few Snow Tracs with a 15 gallon fuel tanks mounted in the front on each side. 30x7lbs a gallon adds 210 lbs. I think this conversion will be close or slightly under that.
Re: Turbo power!
I had a Dodge Omni GLH Turbo in the late 80's. You can set up a manual bleed valve on the turbo and double the boost on it. I seem to remember that the factory boost was around 7-8psi but I could run mine up to 14psi. There used to be a Shelby/Mopar aftermarket computer for that engine too. Combined, I'm pretty sure I was getting close to 190+ HP out of that engine. I could get rubber into fourth gear on that thing and I made some money racing it since no one would give the old four door Omni any respect.
I might have once almost out ran some RCMP on the highway cruising along at 140 MPH on a calm summer night. If I had actually known they were chasing me (I didn't) and had radio'ed ahead to set up a road block to catch me I might have avoided a ticket.
My favorite line from the cop was "I didn't know these things could go that fast?" and my reply was "They don't!"
Anyways, the low-end torque on that engine was impressive and managing the torque steer and hopping on the old Omni took a lot of practice.
You might be able to take a Snowcat speed record with that thing.
I had a Dodge Omni GLH Turbo in the late 80's. You can set up a manual bleed valve on the turbo and double the boost on it. I seem to remember that the factory boost was around 7-8psi but I could run mine up to 14psi. There used to be a Shelby/Mopar aftermarket computer for that engine too. Combined, I'm pretty sure I was getting close to 190+ HP out of that engine. I could get rubber into fourth gear on that thing and I made some money racing it since no one would give the old four door Omni any respect.
I might have once almost out ran some RCMP on the highway cruising along at 140 MPH on a calm summer night. If I had actually known they were chasing me (I didn't) and had radio'ed ahead to set up a road block to catch me I might have avoided a ticket.
My favorite line from the cop was "I didn't know these things could go that fast?" and my reply was "They don't!"
Anyways, the low-end torque on that engine was impressive and managing the torque steer and hopping on the old Omni took a lot of practice.
You might be able to take a Snowcat speed record with that thing.
I'm guessing I'll be quite content with it as is. But I do have an intercooler and a MP computer as well...
I think the ride and handling, coupled with the steering is the limiting factor speed wise. I have never driven a Snowtrac more than a few feet. I've read a few reports of slow response steering at speed, then sudden changes in direction. We'll see.
As it sits I'm geared for around 20 mph tops. If I install a 3.8 geared ring/pinion combo in place of the 4.125 I'd gain some more. Then install the standard ST4 front chain driven gears and I'd gain some more. But speed isn't my ultimate goal. The 2.2 in my LeBaron sings along on the highway at 3000 rpm all day long. I like the rpm potential of this motor compared to the Volks.
I think the ride and handling, coupled with the steering is the limiting factor speed wise. I have never driven a Snowtrac more than a few feet. I've read a few reports of slow response steering at speed, then sudden changes in direction. We'll see.
As it sits I'm geared for around 20 mph tops. If I install a 3.8 geared ring/pinion combo in place of the 4.125 I'd gain some more. Then install the standard ST4 front chain driven gears and I'd gain some more. But speed isn't my ultimate goal. The 2.2 in my LeBaron sings along on the highway at 3000 rpm all day long. I like the rpm potential of this motor compared to the Volks.