IMP/Clark OC-4 Steering band rehab/reline

[Idaho IMP]

Welp, that’s a gooder! I’d do everything but drill it out just so you won’t introduce more metal into the system. I think the centers are open so you may be able to tap with a brass drift. You may be able to drive the stub inward to free it up. It probably just has metal particles in the splines. How do the bearing surfaces look on the axle? The splined end looks like it’s been rattling around for a while.

 

[dswithen]

We still can't get it. We welded rods to it multiple times and broke them off with the silde hammer we did get it to slide out about an inch but no more. We even got it to go back in and out that inch. We are about to take the other side of and we really hope your right and we can pound it out from the other side with a drift. It sure looks like you can from my manual

 

[BoyToys]

Haha yeah that's what I'm trying no love yet though. She's really in there!!!! Are we sure there's no clip or something holding it in? It should just slide out? View attachment 187184could I take the other axle out and push it out with a long rod? Thanks guys

No clip, just a tight press fit. I was able to pull out both axles by hand with a little wiggling effort. Not certain, but I don't think you can push through from the other side. You could remove the other axle and then drop out the entire assembly to get to that stub of an axle.

 

[dswithen]

Oh no I don't like the sounds of that. Was really hoping to be able to punch it out from the other side...... We haven't started taking the other side off yet but we are really close to starting. Still trying to weld and slide hammer it. No luck yet.

 

[dswithen]

Got it out!!!! The Clark c-4 or s70f is a pass through axle. Had to take the other side off and tap it out. Just kept breaking the welding rods off. Thanks so much for everyone's input. Gonna hunt down a new axle on Monday. You guys have a guess on price??!?!?!? Idaho imp bearing surfaces look good to me I'll post some pics tomorrow of all the progress and the bearings.

 

[BoyToys]

Got it out!!!! The Clark c-4 or s70f is a pass through axle. Had to take the other side off and tap it out. Just kept breaking the welding rods off. Thanks so much for everyone's input. Gonna hunt down a new axle on Monday. You guys have a guess on price??!?!?!? Idaho imp bearing surfaces look good to me I'll post some pics tomorrow of all the progress and the bearings.

Excellent! Will file that away in my aging memory banks in case I ever have the joy of a broken axle.

 

[Idaho IMP]

I just looked up my receipt. The new axle for my WT 1404 was just south of $700. It’s only money, right?

 

[dswithen]

Haha yeah spare now expense!!! That's not as bad as I was expecting. I just hope he was one he can send me. Sorry I didn't get any good pics today. I'll update tomorrow for sure.

 

[rockaukum]

While out paying last season, I threw a track completely off. In order to move the cat so I could position it for better reinstall of the track, I had to use the brake on the trackless side in order to move. Much like what you have going on with the broken axle, I think. There prolly is bits of metal lodged in there holding the stub in place?
As far a removing the broken stub from the housing, You could use you welder and weld a metal rod to the stub, then pull with that. I know from experience with my old jeep'n days.
best to ya.
ra

 

[dswithen]

Update, got the axle ordered $600 should be here Thursday. Also ordered some of that special oil for the trans axle. I'm not gonna do the bearings hoping they have some life left. Anyone have any ideas why it might of broke? Toyota 22r has too much torque?!?!?!?

 

[Idaho IMP]

That’s good to hear. I would anticipate having to replace the outer housing seal and bearing, or at least have them on hand just in case when you do the replacement. I also made my own outer gaskets where the large outer retainers bolt to the axle tube flange. “When in Rome” as they say. It’s much easier to inspect/replace those outer bearings and seals now, then have to disassemble and do later….

 

[dswithen]

Yeah thanks for all the great info. I'm in the process of cleaning inspecting and reassembling the left side now. Any idea torque specs on these bolts that hold the inner bearing in place?

 

[BoyToys]

No idea about the torque specs, just don't get crazy torquing into the cast metal. It's not under any load stress, just sealing the gasket. I don't imagine I put any more than 15 or 20 pounds on mine. But be sure to seal the bolts with goo...if I recall those are through-holes, but then my old brain cells tend to drop off over time.

 

[dswithen]

Got the axle and bearing and all looks good. Will this fluid work or do I need to buy sae 50

Phillips 66 Powerdrive Fluid 1074861 5 gal Pail VISCOSITY:30 Axle & Transmission

Enhance equipment life with Phillips 66® PowerDrive Fluid. Designed for off-highway equipment, it offers improved performance and reduced risk of failure. Get yours now!

evolubesupply.com

I'm in the process of putting it all together now. If that fluid will work I should be driving it again tonight.

 

[Idaho IMP]

Either will work, I’d say go with what’s in your budget and is easiest for you to buy.

 

[BoyToys]

Got the axle and bearing and all looks good. Will this fluid work or do I need to buy sae 50

Phillips 66 Powerdrive Fluid 1074861 5 gal Pail VISCOSITY:30 Axle & Transmission

Enhance equipment life with Phillips 66® PowerDrive Fluid. Designed for off-highway equipment, it offers improved performance and reduced risk of failure. Get yours now!

evolubesupply.com

I'm in the process of putting it all together now. If that fluid will work I should be driving it again tonight.

I'm using NAPA 85-405 hydraulic tractor transmission juice. I think it's rated as 20W. There are about a dozen recommendations and opinions out there. Personally I don't think I would go with 50W for frozen cold environments unless you are patient to let it warm up a bit.
Disclaimer: I'm no expert, just using what seems to work.

 

[dswithen]

Still cleaning metal out of the rear diff. We got the bearing pressed on and axle in the housing. Do i need to drain the front plug of the c-4 also? I drained the rear plug already. Is there two separate fluid reservoirs, or do they share the same oil?

⁸

 

[BoyToys]

This is otherwise known as a transaxle. In essence you have a differential...the C4...mated to a a 4 speed gearbox. Whatever fluid you use is shared between the two. Just pour it in through the top of the C4 and it will flow into the transfer case. Takes about 2 gallons.

 

[dswithen]

So I should drain both?

 

[BoyToys]

So I should drain both?

Yes, considering you may have some metal fragments circulating from your broken axle

 

[mtncrawler]

The OC-4 has two drain plugs on the bottom. The rear one is for the steering differential, the forward one for the transmission cavity. Oil will flow between the two only after the oil level is approaching full. Fill both sides from the large plug top left of the steering differential side until it flows through and reaches the level of the fill level plug on the left side of the transmission. If extended hill climbs are expected add an extra quart so the front input shaft bearing doesn't run dry. Best advise is go easy on your OC-4 and change out the oil often.

 

[BoyToys]

The OC-4 has two drain plugs on the bottom. The rear one is for the steering differential, the forward one for the transmission cavity. Oil will flow between the two only after the oil level is approaching full. Fill both sides from the large plug top left of the steering differential side until it flows through and reaches the level of the fill level plug on the left side of the transmission. If extended hill climbs are expected add an extra quart so the front input shaft bearing doesn't run dry. Best advise is go easy on your OC-4 and change out the oil often.

Great added detail. Mystery explained and solved. i wonder what the definition of "often" is, being the newbie that I am. I probably have all of 4 hours on new oil, most of which has seen 50% cruising in easy snow and 50% relatively light plowing my 100 foot driveway to the cabin. I know that's a loaded "depends on" question. My diff. never gets blistering hot

 

[dswithen]

She's back baby!!! Gonna take her out for a real ride Sunday. Got a brand new axle, bearing, and seals in there. Also did some small track repairs and some more interior work while she was in the shop. Thanks so much for all the help guys. I'm super excited to have her back in action!!!!

 

[BoyToys]

Lots of work but a good feeling when all done...successfully. Back on the "road" again. Sure wish I had a big shop where I could park inside to do whatever needs doing. Just half of a two car garage so I'm pretty much stuck to fair weather and outside on the driveway.

 

[dswithen]

Yeah the shop is game changer in Idaho in winter lol. I'd be in big trouble without it . I'm still curious if anyone has any guesses why it broke???? I looked up and specs the stock motor in the 1402 had 30 horse power, the 20r that is in it has 90 horse power. No bad guesses!!!! I also wanted to see if anyone had a vin plate for the 1402 with the ship weight of 1900 on it, that they would sell me? The roads I'm running it on are trying to be sticklers and want proof it's under 2k lbs. Thanks again for everything guys!!!!!

 

[dswithen]

 

[ViaLisboa]

The OC-4 has two drain plugs on the bottom. The rear one is for the steering differential, the forward one for the transmission cavity. Oil will flow between the two only after the oil level is approaching full. Fill both sides from the large plug top left of the steering differential side until it flows through and reaches the level of the fill level plug on the left side of the transmission. If extended hill climbs are expected add an extra quart so the front input shaft bearing doesn't run dry. Best advise is go easy on your OC-4 and change out the oil often.

Curious if you may have a picture of the “large plug top left of the steering differential side?”

I need to change my fluid soon and I want to make sure I’m doing it right.

 

[BoyToys]

Yeah the shop is game changer in Idaho in winter lol. I'd be in big trouble without it . I'm still curious if anyone has any guesses why it broke???? I looked up and specs the stock motor in the 1402 had 30 horse power, the 20r that is in it has 90 horse power. No bad guesses!!!! I also wanted to see if anyone had a vin plate for the 1402 with the ship weight of 1900 on it, that they would sell me? The roads I'm running it on are trying to be sticklers and want proof it's under 2k lbs. Thanks again for everything guys!!!!!

View attachment 187812

Can't help you with a gross weight plate. Maybe you could take it to a truck scale and get it weighed and keep the documentation as proof.
As for why the axle broke, just plain metal fatigue or perhaps a casting flaw. C4 differentials should handle your 90 hp as long as you're being gentle, not dumping the clutch or pulling heavy weights. My 1404 (1975 year) with the stock Ford V4 puts out 84 horses per the Thiokol manual that came with it.

Here's how I made mine road legal with license plate .... courtesy of Amazon

 

[mtncrawler]

This is an OC-3 Oliver crawler, not an OC-4 machine but shows the fill plug location. As far as how often to change oil a lot depends on use and oil type. These tractors called for straight weight non-detergent motor oil (not gear oil) when new. Non-detergent oil does not keep impurities from the friction steering in suspension rather it collects as sludge settled to the bottom. When we were skiing 15 to 20 days a season and using detergent 10w40 motor oil I would change it out mid season (when warm after use) my reasoning being it is pretty cheap insurance to remove these little wear particles instead of having them work on all the yellow metal bushings in the differential.