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Bypass Oil Filtering...What Do You Think?

H

humor_me

New member
These guys have a pretty cool product.
Some equipment operators claim 2000+ hours between oil changes.:eek:
Some OTR truckers claim 60,000+ miles between oil changes.:yum: :eek:

Not only for diesel engines but for automatic transmissions, hydros, and hydraulics.

Intrigued?

You owe it to yourself to at least see the video and make up your own mind.
http://filtrationsolutionsww.com/
:thumb:
 
This is nothing new. AmsOil has had a dual oil fitration system out for decades. At 55 mph it like changing your oil every five minutes. It is that clean. Onec a year you toss out both old filters and replace the oil that was trapped in them. This new oil adds all the kick your old oil needs. Your good for another year. Synthetic oil is also good for the enviroment. It can be recycled much easier than petrolium oils. and you use 1 /6 th the amount every year for oil changes and less than that if you use a dual oil fitration system. Cant be beat!
 
I haven't viewed the video yet, but I can tell you that it isn't the solids in the oil that are the real problems, but the acids that build up in the oil and other contaminants that can't be filtered out. There are also additives in oil that are just used up after a certain amount of use, and those additives need to be replaced to protect the moving parts of the engine. I am very sceptically of claims that haven't been scientifically proven. Endorsements by others are not scientific or analytical evidence, and as a result, are not very reliable.
I recently learned about a product that claimed to increase fuel mileage after the 4th tank full after adding the product. Turns out that the product is a hoax and nothing more than moth balls. I don't know how or who collects all the moths to remove their balls, but I also know that it doesn't help anything more than to keep the moth population down... :yum: :yum:
 
junkman you are correct but this is why you have filters changes. You change the filters (FF and bypass0 and add more oil. Replenish add pkg. A good synthetic oil will have a higher TBN and maintain it longer till the filter change.

If you put on LOTs of miles by-passes are great and work very well. I know many pople that are doing LOTS of miles.

The reason why I do NOT have them is the cost. The filters cost more then the oil for me. It is cheaper to do an oil change...go figure.

I have been using LCD products now. So the benefits are like a by-pass not using one.

By snowcat is right, by-passes are about as new as computers (per say).
 
buy_25 said:
junkman you are correct but this is why you have filters changes. You change the filters (FF and bypass0 and add more oil. Replenish add pkg. A good synthetic oil will have a higher TBN and maintain it longer till the filter change.

If you put on LOTs of miles by-passes are great and work very well. I know many pople that are doing LOTS of miles.

The filters cost more then the oil for me. It is cheaper to do an oil change...go figure.


By snowcat is right, by-passes are about as new as computers (per say).
Click to expand...

Of course snowcat is right. Luberfiners have been around for a long, long time.
I guess that unless you're using 10+ gallons of oil per change, it is not worth it.
:1062:
 
I dont remember what I paid for my dual oil filtration system from Amsoil but have found that my oil is always extremely clean. In fact you cant tell its a year old. You cant tell the diffrence from new oil and old. After a year I just change all the oil and filters. I know I dont have too but its cheap insurance. I also feel better knowing its as good as it can possibly be. So to me thats worth alot of money.
 
Snowcat Operations said:
I dont remember what I paid for my dual oil filtration system from Amsoil but have found that my oil is always extremely clean. In fact you cant tell its a year old. You cant tell the diffrence from new oil and old. After a year I just change all the oil and filters. I know I dont have too but its cheap insurance. I also feel better knowing its as good as it can possibly be. So to me thats worth alot of money.
Click to expand...



Have you ever sent out your oil to be tested to see if it has broken down?
 
Snowcat Operations said:
I will be doing the same to my Dodge Power Wagon here in the next few months. Maybe I should do a small article on it here?
Click to expand...

How many years have you been using this system, Snowcat?
 
Junkman said:
I haven't viewed the video yet, but I can tell you that it isn't the solids in the oil that are the real problems,
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Oh, I dunno. I got a bit, er, careless a few years back and was trying to see if one of my muscle cars would lift the front end on launch after using D3 compound slicks and getting them really heated up and cleaned off. Somehow I managed to break the skirt off of a piston. Parts of it floated around a bit too long in the oil and caused considerable collateral damage. Sometimes those ole solids can cause problems...:o
 
Yes, one time. I think it cost me $25 but dont really remember. It came with a kit you simply siphoned a small amount into this small container (small pill bottle size) and put it back in the box it came in and off it went. A week or two later I recieved a report showing all these types of metal (which none were present in the oil) and a report on the condition of the oil. (They can tell you if something is wearing out in your engine by the type and percentage of metel in the oil) There was nothing wrong with the oil at I think 20K miles and no abnormal engine wear detected. I havent done it since. I can tell you that I gained more horse power and better fuel economy by simply swithing to Amsoil. I sure any high quality synthetic will do the same. I have tried Mobil 1 once since I heard it was SO GOOD. Blah. Yes its better than your basic cheap patrolium but not as good a high end synthetic.

For those of you who dont know there are 3 qualities of synthetic and 2 qualities in Petrolium oil.

1st is best 2nd is good and 3rd is ok but not as good as the best grade petrolium.

The best petrolium is better than the lowest grade synthetic.
The lowest grade petrolium is just crap and should only be used on door hinges.
Spectrol actually has a blended formula which is part highest grade synthetic and part highest grade petrolium. This is a great oil. Amsoil does out perform Spectrol but not by much in the wear catigory. In the extreme heat and cold Amsoil smashes everybody! To give you an idea at -60 below Amsoil still pours and is usable. Petroliums are just a solid block of goo. I do know Amsoil uses the highest grade synthetic. So thats why I use Amsoil. When something better comes along I will use that.
 
I know Amsoil is good but there are many other good oil (grp 4 and 5) that are just as good. For me, Amsoil is the best bang for the dollar.

Sad part is Amsoil and Mobil are really tied. They both buy there adds from the same place.

Again I am using LCD product to make Amsoil ever better. So far, no thicking of the oil using LC20. Without it, Amsoil goes up a weight..

From my last oil test (2 weeks ago), using LC20 all my wear went DOWN 20 to over 50% along with lower NOX and OXD! PLus it is cleaning varnish and carbon at the sametime. No oil can do that! :)
 
Hmm Mobil must have changed there formula then. The stuff I tried did not work very well at the extreme cold temps we get here. It was way to thick! Glad they are doing a better job then. Yes I feel also that Amsoil is a great "Bang" for the buck!
 
Snowcat Operations said:
What is this LCD product?
Click to expand...
http://www.lubecontrol.com/

I use there LC20 in all my autos and FP60 too.

So far my car has GAINED over 1MPG and the wifes almost 2mpg!

I have my oil testing by Terry at Dyson Analysis. Great guy.

Here is my last test (when comapred to 2 others using ASL) using everything the same but LC20 in the oil. Anything Negitive means gone down or is what you LIKE or want. It (-) is a good thing.

Iron Dropped: (-)54.54%....(-) 16%
Lead: -) 59%...(-) 10%
Copper: (-)54.54%...(-)37%
Tin: 0%...(-) 100%..same
Alu: 0%...(-) 50%..same
Nickel: 0%..0%
Silicon: (-)1&...UP 29% (expect that due to RTV on valve cover)
Boron: (UP) 5%...(-) 100%
Sodium: (-) 100%....(-) 100%
Magnesium: (UP) 2%...UP 7.8%
Cal: (-) 29.2%.......UP 8.2%
Phos: (-) 11.9%...(-)3.39
Zinc: (-) 8.29%...(-)6.24%
Moly: 0%...0%
Titanium: 0%
Vanadium: 0%
potassium: 0%
Viscosity @ 100 C: (-) 39.9271%....(-)15.53
TBN: (-) 26.49%....(-)26.04%
OXD: (-) 45.83%...(-)35%
NOX: (-) 38.23%..(-)35.29%
 
buy_25 said:
Sad part is Amsoil and Mobil are really tied. They both buy there adds from the same place.
Click to expand...

I just got the Amsoil "Action News" magazine today and in the Four Ball Wear Test, the Gear Wear Test SAE 40 Group and Gear Wear SAE 50 Group test they show Mobil as one of the worst out of 17 oils tested. Mobil was 14th out of 17 in one test and 10th out of 12 in another.
 
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