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1960-61 Thiokol 4t-2 questions need help
- Thread starter Mike8623
- Start date
Snowcat Operations
Active member
Your machine was made in Salt Lake City. I bet he has a bunch of the original equipment from the plant. Post pics when you get them back. Also it looks like someone tried to ford some deep water which pulled the fan blades into your radiator. Recored will last a lifetime. The engine might be a Ford 235. Kinda a rare breed these days. Another rebuild should see it live a very long time as well. Your biggest problem will be the steering transmissions. An OC12 will just about bolt up. If I remember correctly the width was spot on. The wheel bearings are available. They are for an older Corvette. These are made in China now. You can shorten the inner bearing spacers and add two more bearings for greater support of the axle. You would want to have the inner bearings with no seals with the outer bearings with seals on the outer side. Drill and add some zirk fitting the grease them in the field. The suspension bearings can also be replaced. I forget what I found but there is a replacement.
OK guys I want to run a few things by you guys and get your opinion.
When I bought this Thiokol 4T the owner told me that it ran good but needed clutch and brake discs, which he had but hadn't put in.
Well the battery was bad, but when I put another battery in it, it did crank over but I didn't try to start it because I had the radiator out of it.
So now the radiator is out being recored and the spockets are going out today to be redone. so now the sprockets are off and the tracks moved back I can see the axles and nothing is in the way of their movement.
1. I put the cat in neutral and can turn each drive shaft by hand at the rear of the cat. As I do so the axles will turn so that I can see them turning.
2. When I put the cat in first gear and try to turn the drive lines, I can't and the axles will not turn.
3. If I keep it in gear and pull both drive sticks back the drive lines will not turn by hand and the axles will not turn.
4. On the drive bands where the fiber discs are to be replaced the two closest to the rear of the cat, I can see the third in disc on each one is toast and I am going to replace them.
My question is I don't see anything that would keep the cat from driving away once all put back together and fired up.
Am I missing something here? what do you folks think
When I bought this Thiokol 4T the owner told me that it ran good but needed clutch and brake discs, which he had but hadn't put in.
Well the battery was bad, but when I put another battery in it, it did crank over but I didn't try to start it because I had the radiator out of it.
So now the radiator is out being recored and the spockets are going out today to be redone. so now the sprockets are off and the tracks moved back I can see the axles and nothing is in the way of their movement.
1. I put the cat in neutral and can turn each drive shaft by hand at the rear of the cat. As I do so the axles will turn so that I can see them turning.
2. When I put the cat in first gear and try to turn the drive lines, I can't and the axles will not turn.
3. If I keep it in gear and pull both drive sticks back the drive lines will not turn by hand and the axles will not turn.
4. On the drive bands where the fiber discs are to be replaced the two closest to the rear of the cat, I can see the third in disc on each one is toast and I am going to replace them.
My question is I don't see anything that would keep the cat from driving away once all put back together and fired up.
Am I missing something here? what do you folks think
Snowcat Operations
Active member
Since you have the discs and clutch then replace them while waiting for parts to arrive. Sounds like it will run fine. You won't know until you try for sure. At this point you have nothing to loose and everything to gain if it works after you replace said items.
Im With SO.
Sounds like a simple service.
and as far as running with out the radiator, don't be afraid to couple the hoses to gether and fill it with liquid. You can run it a bit with out the radiator.
Just $.02 worth of advice in regards to moving forward while waiting...
Mike
Sounds like a simple service.
and as far as running with out the radiator, don't be afraid to couple the hoses to gether and fill it with liquid. You can run it a bit with out the radiator.
Just $.02 worth of advice in regards to moving forward while waiting...
Mike
OK guys, I've still got this thing up on my trailer so I can get underneath it without a lot of trouble and still have a little room.
got both the rear drivelines out, the couplers and the metal to the rear of the power divider. So the power divider is staring me right in the face and two clutches that need work are right there. So I am thinking about the best way to get these things apart while still under the machine. Looks like a brace on the bottom of each and an adjuster of some sort on top......so tomorrow I guess I'll take that bottom brace off and see what gives then those two side bolts and then if I have to the upper two adjuster rods and then go from there. I'll clean everything up while in there and grease that rack gear system while I'm at it.
Next year the cab can come off and the frame, engine, tranny and the rest of it looked at and taken care of. repainted, new rubber on those tracks and put back together.
got both the rear drivelines out, the couplers and the metal to the rear of the power divider. So the power divider is staring me right in the face and two clutches that need work are right there. So I am thinking about the best way to get these things apart while still under the machine. Looks like a brace on the bottom of each and an adjuster of some sort on top......so tomorrow I guess I'll take that bottom brace off and see what gives then those two side bolts and then if I have to the upper two adjuster rods and then go from there. I'll clean everything up while in there and grease that rack gear system while I'm at it.
Next year the cab can come off and the frame, engine, tranny and the rest of it looked at and taken care of. repainted, new rubber on those tracks and put back together.
Well guys it was pretty easy to get those two rearward power inverters off. Once off the fiber discs just feel to pieces (I'll try to post pictures later), anyway every disc in them was toast, big time, So now (I have 12 new discs) it's time to clean and put everything back together......I'm thinking now about the other two on the inside or the two towards the cab.
So just what do the two towards the back of the machine do and what do the two up towards the cab do??
So just what do the two towards the back of the machine do and what do the two up towards the cab do??
Snowcat Operations
Active member
Boggie could better explain the mechanics involved in what each set of discs do. I do not remember how many discs were in them. I suggest replacing all of them if you have enough. They are extremely hard to find. I once found a pile of them at a old tractor supply/repair facility in Iowa I believe. Boggie may have a line on them. If you don't have anymore call him at Minnesota Outdoor Sports or some such thing. He may be back on this thread as well sometime.
MNoutdoors RIP
Gone But Not Forgotten
Your two steering levers In the cab have three distinct positions one is nuterual
One is low and one is high to go straight leave both in high or low to turn one in high and one in low causes a arced turn if you put one side in nuterual and one in high you will turn sharper but not powered on both sides then.
As far as the clutch packs two are your low and two are your high like SO said
I would replace them all if they are crumbling wash your hands some of the old ones are asbestos place them in a bag and dispose them accordingly some of the new ones are Kevlar and last forever
Most of the tractor supply places online have them same as a JD 1010 Discs
http://www.tpaktopc.net/jd420jd440jd1010strcltch.htm
Here's some also Ebay has them
Snow ops there was a rumor something about AZ-out?????.com
You just never know where those circus tents will go up next
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MNoutdoors RIP
Gone But Not Forgotten
Although running with the parking brake on does nothing much good.
I would suspect out of adjustment, causing a constant slip to the point they would overheat. What did the metal discs look like we're they discolored? Warped?
MNoutdoors RIP
Gone But Not Forgotten
They need to absolutely flat just like the fiber discs or you will cause premature wear on the fiber ones if in doubt replace them nows the time to do it. Then with proper adjustment they will last many years to come
MNoutdoors RIP
Gone But Not Forgotten
The rear clutch packs are for high
Pushing the levers forward tightens the rear clutch pack and pushing forward is
High
You should be able to notice the visable plate move tighter also in nuterual
Both rods to the clutch packs should be loose and wiggle
MNoutdoors RIP
Gone But Not Forgotten
Your welcome 
MNoutdoors RIP
Gone But Not Forgotten
One thing I just remembered is the fuel tank if original has a shutoff on the bottom and they love to fill with rust and varnish one time on a cruise with one of mine I had to walk several miles because of this. get a gas tank filter (macs auto parts part number A9189FS made for a model A ) and better yet install a electric fuel shut off that opens when the key is turned on macs number A9190V12 that way if your float sticks open you don't fill your engine with gasoline.
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MNoutdoors RIP
Gone But Not Forgotten
Picture of the gas tank filter it goes in the tank above the shutoff
The screen is stainless steel I know without it on my model A it was a constant
Battle with it never have had a problem since it fits thru the 1/4NPT hole
It can be soldered in but it has a taper so it wedges in tight
The screen is stainless steel I know without it on my model A it was a constant
Battle with it never have had a problem since it fits thru the 1/4NPT hole
It can be soldered in but it has a taper so it wedges in tight
Attachments
Well good news,
1. Reynolds Radiator, Missoula Montana called yesterday said my radiator and heater core are all done. They took a new radiator and put my side mounting plates on it and the owner said you can't tell the difference and it will just drop right in. They also redid my heater core to like new condition. The price was $345.00 for both units.
2. All the high gear fiber discs in the power converter both sides were toast. I took it apart and put new discs back in it, so I should have high gear now. Low gear looks all there and ok both sides. I would not hesitate to tell folks, if you're thinking of doing your power inverters, I did the rears (high gear) from under the cat and thought it was pretty easy, the hardest part was taking everything apart to get them.......anyway I would not hesitate to do this if you need it.
3. My drive sprockets are enroute to Utah for refinishing
4. Got a new battery coming this week, already put in a new solenoid.
5. Lastly I'm looking into new belting for my tracks and that is I believe the last thing to do to have my cat operational for winter, I believe (hope).
All that and without seeing a Grizzly bear.....I guess I'm batting a 1000 at the moment, hope my streak holds up (tracks, tracks, tracks)
1. Reynolds Radiator, Missoula Montana called yesterday said my radiator and heater core are all done. They took a new radiator and put my side mounting plates on it and the owner said you can't tell the difference and it will just drop right in. They also redid my heater core to like new condition. The price was $345.00 for both units.
2. All the high gear fiber discs in the power converter both sides were toast. I took it apart and put new discs back in it, so I should have high gear now. Low gear looks all there and ok both sides. I would not hesitate to tell folks, if you're thinking of doing your power inverters, I did the rears (high gear) from under the cat and thought it was pretty easy, the hardest part was taking everything apart to get them.......anyway I would not hesitate to do this if you need it.
3. My drive sprockets are enroute to Utah for refinishing
4. Got a new battery coming this week, already put in a new solenoid.
5. Lastly I'm looking into new belting for my tracks and that is I believe the last thing to do to have my cat operational for winter, I believe (hope).
All that and without seeing a Grizzly bear.....I guess I'm batting a 1000 at the moment, hope my streak holds up (tracks, tracks, tracks)
I appears you have both oars in the water thats for sure.
Just had a thought
I was in need of a radiator back on my honeymoon, Got hammered by hail in 1989 and tried every racer trick i had to keep the water on the inside.....
Pushed on thru the storm and across the dakotas, Made it to cutbank, Montana and woke up to find a radiator shop across the street from the hotel, i wonder if that man is in business yet, I never thought of that memory.
He fixed that radiator, while giving me a education about his trade. wouldn't take a dime and sent me on my way. actually kind of scolded me....
Just had a thought
I was in need of a radiator back on my honeymoon, Got hammered by hail in 1989 and tried every racer trick i had to keep the water on the inside.....
Pushed on thru the storm and across the dakotas, Made it to cutbank, Montana and woke up to find a radiator shop across the street from the hotel, i wonder if that man is in business yet, I never thought of that memory.
He fixed that radiator, while giving me a education about his trade. wouldn't take a dime and sent me on my way. actually kind of scolded me....
who is doing the sprockets for you and what was the price? i really need to have mine done before i ruin a sprocket, track or worse
Well, the folks at Grip Rubber Inc. in Salt Lake are doing them. I sent them off last week and got a call this morning, apparently they are shot, so I am headed down there Sunday and speak to them personnaly Monday morning, The owner Grant, said something about water jetting a new set and then using my inner spline section to mate to the new srprocket.......If your interested let me know and I'll keep you posted
Snowtrac Nome
member formerly known as dds
grizzly's are plentiful here had one walk behind my wife a couple of nights ago
if you are going to re build the tracks, I think you might be better off to attach your inner hub to a sprite or 2100 sprocket. than build your tracks on a 4 1/2 inch center, that way the sprockets can be re built again about any place, just a thought. maybe boggie can give his 2 cents worth about the idea.