# Thinking of building this



## daedong

*
* *2.0 VESSEL SPECIFICATION*​ Specification details for the 5.6m Runabout Vessel are:

1.            Principal Particulars

            LOA:                                       6.0m

            Length (Hull)                           5.6m

            Beam:                                     2.3m

            LWL:                                       4.55

            Draft (hull only):                   0.2m

            Hull Depth (Midships):            1.03m

            Freeboard (Midships):            0.195m

            Fuel Capacity (Rec.): 120 L 

            Deadrise: (M/S)                    15°

            Rec. Engine Power:                         50-150HP

2.         Hull Type

            The CDM M56C hull is a moderate deadrise high performance design             with reasonable rake of stem (48° from horizontal) and forward             sections to achieve a compromise between easy planing ride quality             and load carrying/stability with good tracking. The hull topsides are      flared enough for the desirable dryness and aesthetics but are the             required height for safety and fishing comfort. 

3.            Construction

The vessel is constructed from all DNV certified marine grade aluminium. The hull is constructed from full depth transverse web frames. Aft girders reaching two frames forward from the transom (Half Pod) complete the strong, yet light main construction matrix. 
            50 x 6mm and pre-cut plate bottom stringers are used for bottom             longitudinals. The fully welded deck is slot welded by pre-cut  slots on        a T-Bar grid. All plate is 4mm DNV Certified 5083 H321 grade.







SCANTLINGS: 

Max. Frame Spacing (mm) 750 
Max. Stringer Spacing (mm) 250 
Bottom Plate (mm) 4 
Topside Plate (mm) 4 
Bottom Stringers (mm) 50x6 FB 
Transom Plate (mm) 6 
Frames (mm) 4 
Deck Stringers (mm) 40x40x4 T 
Deck Plate (mm) 3 
AVAILABLE POWERING OPTIONS: 



I am thinking about having a go at building an aluminium boat. I like this one, It comes in a kit from western Australia. The kit is all hull and deck plates plasma cut just weld together, well hopefully. I need to spend a bit more time practising with the MIG. I feel fairly confident after reading about many amateurs with no previous experience building many different alloy boats from this crowd.
http://www.cdmarine.com.au/range.html 

The cost of the kit is $8300au about $1500au freight 

The missus reckons she could take a nice holiday somewhere overseas with the money but I think this would be more fun.


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## Doc

Whoa Vin.  that's quite  a project.  I've grown quit fond of fiberglass boats over alumium.  But you wouldn't get any welding time if you tried your hand at figberglass.  Good luck with your project and keep us posted when you can.


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## DaveNay

daedong said:
			
		

> The missus reckons she could take a nice holiday somewhere overseas with the money but I think this would be more fun.



Will you have enough time to get it built while she is on holiday?


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## daedong

Doc said:
			
		

> Whoa Vin.  that's quite  a project.  I've grown quit fond of fiberglass boats over alumium.  But you wouldn't get any welding time if you tried your hand at figberglass.  Good luck with your project and keep us posted when you can.


Fiberglass is not in flavor much here now, there is a big trend towards alloy plate. Quintrex are absolutly booming here. There is very little saving building it myself but i just want to do it for the fun.

Is Quintrex in the US?
http://www.quintrex.com.au/

I have been researching this project for a month or two now, Its crazy, there is very little difference in price buying one of these kits from the other side of the country,oppossed to buying plans, buying the plate local and then still having to cut it out.

I think i will order a kit this week, put it in the shed ready to start after our river trip in may.


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## daedong

Well I order this kit, should be here within a couple of weeks. I am a little nerves I posted them a cheque for the total sum, they insisted on full payment  before they would proceed with the order. Its a long way to western Australia if they do a runner but they have been around a long time i understand.  Will post some pics when it arrives.

I take that no respose means Quintrex is not in the USA. I always thiught they originated there.


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## Doc

I haven't heard of Quintex until you mentioned it, but they are indeed here in the US.  ...From their web site:

Our Injection Molding division is a leading provider of plastic molded products and assembly services. Quintex has the proven ability to deliver high quality custom injection molded products while maintaining consistent customer service and competitive pricing.

http://www.qntx.com/


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## daedong

The kit arrived on Thursday and I have just uncovered it. I will start cutting it out this week and post some more pics as things happen


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## daedong

Got started today


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## OkeeDon

Vin, that rotary hacksaw looks like a fantastic tool.  I have never seen anything like it in the U.S.  I did a Google search, and the only thing I could  find mentioned was the same Austsaw you pictured.  But, when I clicked on their web site, it didn't come up.

I may have to have you buy a few for me and ship them here, unless someone else has seen something like them here in the States?  Bob?

I have used ordinary carbide-tipped circular saw blades to cut aluminum, but they chew a wide path.  I have a small plasma cutter, but it's only good up to light guage sheet metal and stainless steel; it tends to melt it's way through 1/8" aluminum rather than cut it cleanly.  It does the job for which I purchased it, which is stainless up to about 18 guage, but it's not heavy duty enough for thicker materials.

Don


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## daedong

These blades are brilliant; they must be used with some extra caution compared to the abrasive wheels. All cutting must be well supported. My first experience using them was a costly disaster. A few years back I bought a 230mm(9”) blade for a circular saw and was trying to use it just like I had done for years with an abrasive wheel. I had a piece of angle iron hanging in the vice cutting it and as it collapsed in the process of cutting, it jammed and smashed the teeth to smithereens. I went and bought another blade and persevered, learning from my first experience I always well support whatever I cut, usually do it flat on a piece of MDF or ply. I do try not to cut anything now with these blades other than plate.    

 I have just bought a milling blade to fit the 100mm (4”) angle grinder for cutting out aluminum welds, I will post a pic of it when I use it later in this project


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## Mith

Vin, looks good. Are the parts cut with tabs you need to cut to break them out?
How thick is the sheet?
Looking forward to seeing this done!

That blade, how does it wear? Does it just disappear or last for ages?
I have been using Inox blades, normal grinding disks but really thin, they are meant for Stainless but work great on steel. But they do just disappear. How well do the other disks last?
Cheers mate


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## daedong

There are tabs about every 400mm to 800mm  you just cut them and pop the section out. The tabs are about 40mm long
I cut out 3 sheets today (sheet size 1200mm X 6100mm x 3mm. 
Tomorrow I  have 3  more sheets  to cut they are  1830mm x 6100mm x 4mm. I will post another pic tommorow as there are some really interesting shapes in the next 3 sheets.

http://www.austsaw.com.au/
The *ROTARY HACKSAW* incorporates                  the highest quality Tungsten Carbide Tips to ensure longevity                  of blade between sharpening, which after sharpening then gives                  like-new operations again - protecting your initial investment.


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## daedong

Got started this weekend, here's what i have done so far


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## daedong

Sorry about the blurry pic, but best i could get for some reason


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## Mith

Starting to look real like a boat now! 

Are you still just tacking it? At what point are you going to start welding it solid?


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## Melensdad

Mith said:
			
		

> Are you still just tacking it?



I think I saw that he had a large tube of "JB Weld" in one of the earlier photos


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## daedong

Mith said:
			
		

> Starting to look real like a boat now!
> 
> Are you still just tacking it? At what point are you going to start welding it solid?


 Yep, because aluminium moves so much with temperature changes it is important to tack the whole thing together first.

  [FONT=&quot]Hey Bob many glues today are probably strong enough, there a bit better than the old flour and water trick of old. [/FONT]


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## Melensdad

daedong[FONT=&quot said:
			
		

> many glues today are probably strong enough [/FONT]



In all seriousness, some of the car manufacturers are starting to use epoxies to glue parts to the newer cars together.


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## Cityboy

That is some beautiful work!  Looks like you are using a MIG welder, right? Will you be doing any TIG work as well?


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## Mith

Bob, we used to have a Lotus Elise, that was all glued together to make it lighter. Made from aluminium. It would be plenty strong enough for sure.


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## daedong

[FONT=&quot]Its coming along, When I got to start putting the top deck on nothing would fit into place, I was pulling my hair out trying to work it out. After a day of not making any sense of it I decided to ring the guy I bought the kit from. After send email photos and many phone calls he declared that some how there must have been a software problem and several deck parts where from another design. Figure that one. I probably should have screamed but instead I said I would modify the deck parts. No big deal except it took two days cutting and shaping bits to fit the hull. The original bits look like they fitted a bigger boat.[/FONT]


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## Melensdad

Vin, with the on-site changes you made, will it make the cuddy cabin headroom a little higher?  From the 1st post drawings you showed it looks like you still need to add the windshield but it also looks like the small cabin area may be a bit taller that the original design?


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## daedong

Bob, most of the changes were to the width across the bow, This did effect the  second tier and the angles but only so very slightly just enough to be a pain. The top part of the cab maybe very slightly higher. My intention now is to fully weld out, turn the boat over weld the underside. 
  [FONT=&quot]There is a boat show on in Adelaide on the 20th , I  hope I can get some ideas as to the windscreen, etc. I am considering adding a ½ cab but I need some ideas. Maybe some FF folks might have some pics of nice ½ cabs they could post for me. Hey Doc what you got! [/FONT]


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## bczoom

daedong said:
			
		

> There is a boat show on in Adelaide on the 20th , I  hope I can get some ideas as to the windscreen, etc. I am considering adding a ½ cab but I need some ideas. Maybe some FF folks might have some pics of nice ½ cabs they could post for me. Hey Doc what you got!


Hopefully, you'll find some people at the show that make covers.

A bimini top for the front area may work well for you.  For the long trips, you might want to consider the rear enclosure as well.

Something like this


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## Mith

Whoaaa, Vin, you sure dont hang about!
Looks nice!


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## daedong

Brian, that was what i was thinking, a full cover over the back, never seen them here. thanks for that.


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## Doc

daedong said:
			
		

> I am considering adding a ½ cab but I need some ideas. Maybe some FF folks might have some pics of nice ½ cabs they could post for me. Hey Doc what you got! [/FONT]



Looking good Vin.  Interesting project for sure.  I love seeing it come together.  
I had a camping package like the link BC posted above on another boat.  Didn't need it on this boat since the cuddy is big enough.  So I can't be any help to you on the 1/2 cab cover.  Bimi tops are very popular here.  They mainly block the sun while letting air pass underneath so you can stay semi cool.


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## Viking

VIN...how's the boat coming along? Any new pics??


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## daedong

Sorry been a bit slack with pics, i will take some today and post them.


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## daedong

Not much to say except I had a week of going around in circles, I found out that after tacking the floor in that an under floor air chamber was illegal. It must be filled with a floatation material. So rather than cutting the floor totally out I just cut out the centre. When I put it back I will screw and silicone it instead of welding so that if I ever need to get back into the space it will be easier.

  [FONT=&quot]I apologise for not taking some pics of the fuel tank during construction. It was a prick of a job fitting and plumbing the tank, being in a confined spot under the floor.  [/FONT]


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## Glenn9643

Vin, a couple of the pictures you posted this morning show the bottom of the boat and it doesn't look to be smooth like the sides.  Appears to be some sort of spray-on coating?  Will the rough surface affect the way the boat moves through the water?
I'm asking because I've never built a V-bottom but with the flat-bottom I did build, minor irregularities on the bottom caused big problems with handling the boat under power.


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## DaveNay

Glenn9643 said:
			
		

> Vin, a couple of the pictures you posted this morning show the bottom of the boat and it doesn't look to be smooth like the sides.  Appears to be some sort of spray-on coating?  Will the rough surface affect the way the boat moves through the water?
> I'm asking because I've never built a V-bottom but with the flat-bottom I did build, minor irregularities on the bottom caused big problems with handling the boat under power.


I believe that is the paint Vin was referring to in this thread.

_edit:_

Looking closer, it is actually the circles Vin was asking about in this thread.


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## Viking

Wow...Vin, the boat looks great. I could not even fathom taking on this kind of project. I would be doing well lashing together a few logs to make a raft...


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## daedong

Glenn9643 said:
			
		

> Vin, a couple of the pictures you posted this morning show the bottom of the boat and it doesn't look to be smooth like the sides.  Appears to be some sort of spray-on coating?  Will the rough surface affect the way the boat moves through the water?
> I'm asking because I've never built a V-bottom but with the flat-bottom I did build, minor irregularities on the bottom caused big problems with handling the boat under power.



[FONT=&quot]The bottom is much smother than it looks, It is difficult to describe but I guess its is nearly as smooth as a sheet of printing paper. It was done with a well warn wire brush in an angle grinder. It is not symmetrical but looks ok. The reason I did this was to hide some of the welding tram tracks. I went to a boat show recently and all plate boats I looked at had welding tram tracks just like I had on the bottom. They appear to use some sort of grinder and scuff the bottom much more than I have. [/FONT]


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## Glenn9643

Thanks for the reply Vin.
The way the swirls reflected the light in the photo made the surface appear to be irregular, or not smooth.  Looks like the boat is coming along in fine fashion!

Glenn


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## Bamby

Nice Job on your project. Was enjoying looking through your thread. If you are still around is there a update available.


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## daedong

Bamby said:


> Nice Job on your project. Was enjoying looking through your thread. If you are still around is there a update available.



You will find more here, http://stonevahestate.tripod.com/id26.html


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## Bamby

Looked at your site. Looks as if it came out looking real nice. Hope it handles and performs as well as it looks for you. There's a lot of satisfaction in rolling your own. That's also a nice houseboat project you had there also. If I were ever go abroad sometime Australia is the one place I'd love to see. And it would not be the cities I'd love to experience the outback of it. 

Case you'd like to look my H.B. project  http://s466.photobucket.com/albums/rr29/Bamby38/?albumview=slideshow


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## daedong

Nice job mate, I would love to build a trailable one myself!


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