# Tracks ON/ Tracks OFF



## Lyndon

On most types of snow cats there is some sort of splice where you "Break" the track. On many machines it's a set of pins one removes. On Snow Track and all it's variants it is a bolted lap joint. It really helps if you put the machine on jack stands so that you can run the machine "In-Place". For most machines, except those with continuous belt, spliceless tracks, you need to get the splice into a position where you can get at both sides of the track. This means positioning the track right where it is coming off the ground and goes up to the drive sprockets. Taking them off is easy, just take the bolts at the splice out. For major overhaul of a machine I find that this makes the machine much easier to deal with. An ST4 sitting on it's bogey wheels can be easily moved around by one person with a floor jack, or by hand with 2 people.Now it's easy to get on and off the trailer to take to say the glass guy, painter, exhoust shop ect. Once you get the tracks off roll them up into a big 'wheel' and tie the end with a piece of stoute wire or rope. Now depending on the size and weight of the tracks, one or 2 people can roll them out of the way for storeage. To Rebuild a track set it on edge (Takes 2 people) in a serpentine layout. Now you can get at both sides with the rattle gun or electric impact rench. USE 6 POINTS  SOCKETS ONLY! Do not burn the bolts out with a torch. You will ruin the Grousers(Cleats) & guides! For the bolts that will not break off, grind them off or drill a small hole in the nut and crack it with a cold chisle and big hammer.with 2 people have one hold the chisle with big pliers, vicegrips or channellocks to prevent hand damage!  Then you can crack off even the most stubborn bolt with a sledge with just one whack.A complete set of hardware from a fastener supply place will run you about 100 to 150 dollars. Use Nylocks instead of nuts and lock washers. I did my last 2 or 3 track rebuids in Stainless steel for only about 30$ more than the standard grade 5. The Stainless is harder and you can break them back apart even after years of operation. Don't use the old belts as a template. You need to figure out the "PITCH" and space them according to that. If you don't know how ask a belting guy. I actuall use a template to drill out the belting. Some belting places will do it for you for a very reasonable price.

Tracks ON: Roll the tracks out. roll the machine on to the tracks. Make the splice point where you can get at it. I've see all type of guys struggling with clamps and come-alongs, forget it! Wedge some short plank's from the body or bogey assemblies so that the track won't pull out from under the rig. work the track over the return tire and get it as close to the drive sprocket as you can, then tie a piece of wire on the second or third grouser. Take the coil wire off! Now use the starter in first, second or reverse to pull the track right into position. Make sure you've de-adjusted the track tension adjustor fully. You can usually get that board that you were using to keep the track from pulling out from under the rig to wedge in the tire guides. With the help of one of my associates I can comfortably put a track on in about 20 minutes. My record time is about 20 minutes by myself. Works for all makes of snow cats. It helps also to deflate the tires, not all the way flat as you may roll the tube around in the tire. It takes a full day to bust down a track, and thats a long hard day. Same with building a new track up. Tools that are helpfull: lots of phillips screwdrivers to get the holes lined up for rebolting the splice. The proper size of nut driver to get stubborn bolts to start.3/8 Butterfly Ratchet is a lot lighter than a standard 1/2 rattle gun which will wear out your arms lifting it so much. Remember on an ST4 there are 480 Bolts, Nuts, and washers, per track and more on a Snow Master, and most all other machines. When you are initially trying to make the splice it helps if you run a complete set of bolts in without putting the guides and grousers on. Just thread in the bolts, no nuts and it will pull the track together nicely, now you can put a grouser and guides on one of the positions and tighten it up. You'll have to back out the first set of bolts but with the little butterfly air rench it goes pretty fast. PUT AIR BACK IN ALL THE TIRES BEFORE YOU GO ANY FURTHER! Ready for track tensioning. This process works for Snow Track, and it's cousins, thiokol,LMC,Bombardier,Kassborrer and kristi and Tucker steel tracks. I havn't tried it on Hagglund or new style Tuckers but they have one piece continuous belts that would require a different procedure. "IN ORDR TO OWN A TRACK RIG YOU HAVE TO BE A GLUTTON FOR PUNISHMENT". With the new belting technology a set of tracks can be made to last 20 years.Most types of belting do not like being left out in direct sunlight as they get UV Damage, so thro a tarp over it in the summer. Also some manufacturers recomend letting the tension off when storing for long periods of time. this prevents having streeched spots. On My J5 and Snow Tracks I just let the rear tire down for the summer. But don't forget to air it up before you go to move it.


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## Snowcat Operations

Thanks Lyndon! I usually have a huge shop to work in. Unfortunately I have NO shop as before. Usually we would unlink the track and pull the cat off of it. Now my concrete floor work area is 15 X 22 but can only use 15 x 15 due to stairs in the way. Putting the cat on jacks is the way to go for me. Thanks.


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## Snowcat Operations

Today I started to remove my tracks.  The dirt seen on the concrete is from my yard caught in the tracks.  Once I remove the tracks I will pressure wash the unit.  I went and purchased some new Jack Stands but found these a bit to short.  You can see the rear stands are spaced with a 2 2x4s each.  The tracks do run freely though.  I was able to align the splice in the photo by just starting my engine and running the tracks until they are where I need them.  My son was my spotter and is off to one side incase the tracks some how made traction.  The air Ratchet is a MUST if you intend to do ANY type of track work!  I had removed these 12 nuts in a matter of seconds!  Thanks Lyndon for this great tip!  I will post more pictures as I continue with this process.


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## Snowcat Operations

The only thing I would do diffrent would be to buy taller Jack Stands. Once the cat was off the ground I tried to push and pull it off the stands. NO WAY these are soild and very safe.


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## Lyndon

Is that a Ferrit in the background? Rolls Royce Motor? In your pictures you have a right angle air ratchet, good for breaking the bolts, but a butterfly ratchet that fits in the palmof your hand is also a good investment and they are cheap.


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## Snowcat Operations

Thats a Shorland APC Armored Patrol Car.  It has aturret just like on a Ferret.  I will be picking up a butterfly ratchet on my next trip.


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## Snowcat Operations

Finished the removing the tracks today.


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## Snowcat Operations

Last two.


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## Snowcat Operations

Man those tracks are heavy!  The first one I used a come along to pull out.  The second one I used my winch.


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## BigAl RIP

Boy , they sure look naked with the tracks off . I had look laugh at my KT7 when I took off the tracks . They are just so outta proportion to the vehicle at that point .


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## Snowcat Operations

I have a front picture I didnt post because it looks ridiculous without the WIDE tracks!


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## Snowcat Operations

Oh well I cant post the picture because its to big anyway.


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## Lyndon

Give a try at moving the machine around now. I noticed that they follow the procedure you just did such a top notch job of describing and photographing, at almost all Ski Area's and all Snow Cat dealerships. With the tracks on it's a real bear to move a machine around short of picking it up with a fork lift. With the tracks off the same machine is quite manageable. 2 guy's can spin it around on a spot.


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## Snowcat Operations

Lyndon Thanks for all the help.  I will be out moving the machine today.  I already noticed it was a breeze.  Even our LMC 1500 was pretty easy and that thing is big compared to a Snow Master.


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## mtntopper

Snowcat Operations said:
			
		

> Lyndon Thanks for all the help. I will be out moving the machine today. I already noticed it was a breeze. Even our LMC 1500 was pretty easy and that thing is big compared to a Snow Master.


 
When did you get an LMC1500?????????????   We want pics.......


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## Melensdad

Mike, how tall are your jack stands?


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## Snowcat Operations

Bob they are the 3 ton jack stands.  I will be getting the 6 ton stands which are I guess about 18" with out extension.  Extended the 3 tons are about 18" at there highest.  They worked fine but I dont like them exta=ended all the way.

Mntntpr:  Sorry I was talking about my old jobs Snowcat.  Not mine.


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## Melensdad

Mike, take a look at Sears Craftsman.  $34.99.

*  Craftsman Professional 6 ton Jack Stands*

*Sears item #00950150000   Mfr. model #50150*

          12,000 lb. Lift range 15-3/8 in. to 24-5/16 in. Ratchet design, counter weighted pawl, quick adjustment control, baked enamel finish, wide stance, sturdy welded steel construction.


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## Snowcat Operations

Yes those would work great.


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## Lyndon

The very first section of this thread has some specific Ideas/Instructions for Track removal and installation as well as rebuilding.


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## rrossell7

Lyndon, Thanks so much for all the info.  We have fought the track with comalongs when we had to replace the big tire in back last year.  Now we are getting ready for this winter.  The track on the left side was rebuilt just before we bought the machine and the previous owner gave us a couple of rolls of belting so we could do the right side.  I just bought a belt punch for the holes.  What is the procedure for measuring for the cleats.  You said not to use the old track for a template, which is exactly what I was going to do.  Again, Thank You.


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## teledawg

rrossell1 said:


> ... What is the procedure for measuring for the cleats. You said not to use the old track for a template, which is exactly what I was going to do. ...


 
Here is a link to a post by the former owner of my machine (#163) that has a drawing of the track layout for the older, two belt machines like yours. See the .PDF file attached to the first post.

Track Layout Drawing

I think that this is what you are looking for. 

Dan used this template to build a new track for #163. I'll be using the same template to rebuild the other track this fall. I would recommend making a drilling jig out of 3/4" plywood or 1/4" alum plate that would have 6 rows of holes on it. Put a set of pins in one row of the holes. Then is just a matter of drilling a set, moving the jig and place the pins into the last row of holes and drilling the next set. Repeating until all 82 rows are drilled.


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## trwjohn

How do you get the tracks off if they are one continuous belt? I will try to let the air out of the rear tires.


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## Snowtrac Nome

trwjohn said:


> How do you get the tracks off if they are one continuous belt? I will try to let the air out of the rear tires.


 John i have done the bv206n tracks they are that way and they do coe off and go back on no f'n you are going to do it in 45 minuts like the book says and you will use a lot of bad language as it's going to pain


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## MNoutdoors RIP

trwjohn said:


> How do you get the tracks off if they are one continuous belt? I will try to let the air out of the rear tires.



on some of the muskegs and some of the J5 and also the SW48 they used a continuous belt. on the muskeg with this style you are forced to take the outer rail off for one. and then remove about 6 grousers and rotate that area to the back of the rear tire(s) and then pull all the slack to the front sprocket area and pry it of the sprocket(s) you can also do the opposite and take the area of removed cleats and place it at the sprocket area and slide off the rear tire(s) it is allot easy if you want to cut the continuous belt and then you do not have to remove the outer rail in the case of the Muskegs then you will have to go back and do a three bolt overlap splice on both cut ends on the muskegs and a two bolt overlap on the J-5 and the SW48


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