# 442 Refurbishment Project



## DAVENET

It’s tough to figure out where to start. My buddy Dave had wanted a steel track Tucker since I’ve known him. There was one for sale in Colton, NY by our camp several years ago, but I just thought he was nuts. So many parts = so many problems. (And still may be!!) I told him he was out of his mind and I wasn’t jumping on his loony wagon!

Five years pass and my kids are now at an age (7 & 9) where they can enjoy the winter outside on their own. Another buddy of ours sends me a link for a 5 man 252 Ski-dozer that is being sold by a religious camp up in Maine. Now this gets my wheels turning thinking that it would be great to utilize our camp all thru the winter, not just one special weekend trip in February to X-C ski and snowshoe. All of a sudden I’m the one that is looking around for snow cats. I try to find info on the Ski-dozer (which is out of my price range anyway) and cross paths with this forum. I proceed to lurk for a year just reading and taking it all in. 

Dave must have planted the Tucker seed in my head all of those years ago because I’m being drawn back to them over & over. And with Cook’s only a state over, help’s not too far away. Then it happens. Stu (Mtn-Track) decides to show details of his Tucker: ‘An Old Cat’s Tail’.  Well that was the kick in the ass I needed to really start looking. In December 2010 I buy from Stu the last two brand new 400 series pontoons made. Since he switched to the 1500 series tracks, he didn’t need them. Now realize I don’t even own a sno-cat of any type at this point. I’m just going on the assumption that whatever I find will probably need help on at least two of the pontoons. 

Forward to August 2011. I’ve been looking pretty hard for something in my price range that’s close. There is even a Tucker 442 in an old museum near me that I was working on acquiring, but the eccentric old coot will probably let the building collapse (literally) around it instead of selling it to be used again (we’ll see what happens with that in the future). I just happened to check Craig’s List for Tuckers one hot sunny day. Now I’m already thinking that I’m going to have to retrieve something from several states away if something is listed. A 1967 442 pops up in Groveland, MA only about 30 miles from where I work for $3500. I call and set up a time to go look at it. It’s dirty and has some issues, but for the money it’s ok. The previous owner bought a group of 4 as a package deal from Pat’s Peak in NH; three 442’s and one 443. He has a camp in Maine twenty miles off the main trail corridor. His family and the other 10 families that have camps in the area wanted the local snowmobile club (of which they were all members) to groom just once a month out to their location. The club wouldn’t do it. They bought an Alpine, but kept having troubles with it. So the Tuckers were purchased. One was immediately designated the primary groomer (the one I bought) and all of the best parts from the others were put on this machine so they could groom with limited issues. The 443 also received a total restore and was run for a few years, before someone stole it off the trail after they had left for the weekend. It still hasn’t been found. The 442 worked for a couple more years then in 2009 was brought back to Mass to be replaced with a Tucker 1000. So, when I bought it, it hadn’t run in a couple of years. But it did drive onto the trailer under its own power. So I wasn’t too worried about the old flathead.


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## DAVENET

Now, a 442 is nice, but you sure are limited for passengers. So this mild restoration (compared to Mtn-Track, Weatherby, dlmorindds, etc) will involve modifying the platform to a 443 while going thru everything top to bottom so I can hopefully get another 30 years out of it. But it’s going to take a while. The tough thing is having kids that are now 9 & 11 and all of the extracurricular activities they bring to the table that take precious time. And my ‘garage’ is full of wood, dirt bikes, etc., so there is no room to work on it after work at the house. Luckily, where I work has several maintenance bays that I can use. It’s just going to be a matter of finding free weekends to work on it and having everything in place to utilize the time!
The interior needing some TLC:


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## DAVENET

A LOT of trips up and down the mountain:


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## DAVENET

Other stuff:


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## pixie

Nice looking Cat !! 

Sounds like a great project.


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## DAVENET

I didn't even want to start it since it had been sitting for 2-3 years.  So we hooked the pindal to a tree with a chain and just pulled it off of the trailer.  I put in a new battery, pulled the plugs and added a touch of Marvel Mystery.  I let that sit for a day, then came back and spun it over with the fuel line disconnected before the fuel pump.  The fuel stunk to high heavens, so glad I didn't try to start it.  It was free spinning and with no odd noises.  Once the bad gas was out, I dumped in 2 gallons of acetone and sloshed it around a couple of times a day for 2 days. I drained that out, dumped in 5 fresh gallons w/ some Sea Foam added, and primed the fuel pump and carb.  Hit the key and after about three seconds it fires up and goes into a rough idle (because of the mystery oil).  She smokes for a few minutes, clears out, and then purrs like a kitten.  I was psyched!


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## DAVENET

Just before Halloween we got 20 inches of heavy, wet snow.  The only problem was that power was knocked out everywhere. By the time I got my yard cleared of trees and other stuff I had to take care of, it was three days later.  But that wasn't going to deter me.  I had never riden in a sno-cat, let alone driven one.  And since this would be the only chance I got before tearing it down, two inches was going to have to do! I had to have some baseline at least to compare how it is now to what it ends up being.  So around the parking lot I went.


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## Mtn-Track

Who? What? Blame ME will ya'!

Oh well, at least the blame doesn't cost me any cash,,, at least not yet.....

Go Tucker!!!


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## DAVENET

The only problem with tinkering on it at work is that I need to park it out back.  And that is roughly 150 yards across a paved parking lot to get to the garage.  So the Pontoons had to come off and wheels had to go on.  I finally got a free Sunday where I could get the job done.  Of course, because of Murphy and his Law, the first one I attempt to take off gives me the most trouble.  Never having removed a pontoon before, I thought I had missed something.  After cussing for half an hour and prying like crazy, I move to the next one to see if it's cleaner so I can find the issue.  I remove all of the nuts, give a good yank and it slides right off.  I go back to the first one and proceed to give it another good round of beatings and it finally gives up.  The last two slid just as easy as the second.


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## DAVENET

Apparently the right front inside grease nipple was too difficult to reach . . .


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## Blackfoot Tucker

Dave,

I'm looking forward to your build! 

You "broke the code" on the wheels and tires thing. Much easier to move around and another (big) benefit is it allows much better under cat access.


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## DAVENET

Anyone have any idea as to where he updates I made Friday went?  Or the question on best one time grease when reassembling my steel tracks??


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## Cowboy

DAVENET said:


> Anyone have any idea as to where he updates I made Friday went? Or the question on best one time grease when reassembling my steel tracks??


You need to read the first post in this thread below Dave. The forum had a major crash the other day And Doc was able to save it luckilly, but there were several new posts lost. 

http://www.forumsforums.com/3_9/showthread.php?t=52820


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## DAVENET

Thanks-  I'll reload tomorrow!

David


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## DAVENET

To reload Thursdays upload-

I started the disassembly of the first track.  I'm already sick of cotterpins.  Crap there's a lot of them.  And some of the rollers are in dire need of attention (thank goodness I got some of Muley180's).  

I'm sure the tracks originally came with some sort of lube from the factory, but that was probably gone after a thousand miles.  And that was nine thousand ago!  So, I wanted to get everything apart to clean and lube prior to putting them back on the cat.  Also with all of that metal on metal action squeeking like crazy, being amplified by big steel drums, this should quiet down the machine quite a bit.  So, after a trip thru the sandblaster, a coating of POR-15, and some grease I'll start putting it all back together.


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## DAVENET

Sorry for crappy cell phone pictures.  All I had with me that day.  What's the friction coeffecient of rust dust?


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## DAVENET

A trip thru the blaster . . .


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## DAVENET

A question I asked on Thursday that got deleted was inquiring about the best lube when putting this back together.  Dirt won't be a factor (other than windblown sand & dust).  I am looking for a lube that will last a long time because this is damn sure the last time it will be fully apart like this (at least by me).

So, if you posted up recommendations before, could you please do so again?

Thanks, David


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## Snowtrac Nome

champion road machinery made a circle lube for their graders went on like paint wore good also wont colect dirt volvo bought them out check with a local equipment dealer see what they have


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## DAVENET

*Since the database has been repaired . . .*

. . . I guess I'll give an update.

Tracks.
I have worked myself into quite a conundrum.   As you can see in the prior posts, I completely disassembled the tracks to check for issues and to reapply grease that has been missing for the past 40 years (I’m assuming the lube held for the first three years).  There is no doubt that it needed to be done and should knock the noise WAY down.  
Now that everything  (from the first track) is sandblasted, cleaned, coated with POR-15 (more on this later) and rollers checked and completely greased, I’m to the step of reassembly.  Now at first glance this may not seem like such a problem, right?  ‘Just look at the other three tracks that are together and rebuild them the same way’.  There’s only one teeny tiny problem.  Every track cross bar and every connector link have worn together to work with the one it’s hooked to.  Just like your feet and your favorite pair of slippers.  Well the problem I’ve created is now I have no way of knowing where the matching ‘feet & slippers’ are.    One third of my connectors are worn, but the bar is flat, which means the outside to outside distance on the pins is 3 1/2 inches.  One third have had the bars arched slightly to make the distance roughly 3 7/16th inches to compensate for wear and the last third are arched slightly more to measure around 3 3/8th inches.  
Now those 16ths may not sound like much, but depending on which way you mix them it could be like your kid wearing your shoes, or you trying to cram into ballerina slippers .  And having it the wrong way will create excessive wear on parts that may as well be made out of unobtainium.  All of the rollers need to be ‘wear corrected’ to 3.5” to hit the sprocket valleys perfectly each time.


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## DAVENET

This is the root of the problem.  On the left is one of my more worn connecting links, on the right is Muley180's I bought.  The high spot just over half way down is where the roller goes that makes contact with the drive sprocket.  I expected this area to have the most wear prior to disassembly, but just the opposite is the case.  The roller only has heavy pressure when it is in contact with the sprocket each time around the pontoon.  The rest of time it is just 'floating' on the pin.  Not the case for the other areas of the pin.  As this area wears, and the corresponding surface on the cross links, the metal at the top has to be arched up to compensate.  This is luckily one of the worst ones to show as an example, but still shows the problem getting them back into close to the right location.


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## DAVENET

I cleaned & greased all of the rollers while they were off.  I bought 40 used ones from Muley180 and now I’m just hoping they will be enough.  I burned thru 10 of them on this first track replacing four that were blown apart and 6 that had the bearings, but the dirt shield was worn /ripped off exposing them to the elements.   They still roll, but can only realistically be used in an emergency.  The third pic shows one just prior to failure with multiple cracks in the shell.  I’m really amazed at how much grease I had to put into each of the others before it started showing.


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## DAVENET

*POR-15*

Don’t know what to say about this stuff.  I have to say I was very skeptical of the hype and worried about it being so expensive.  No need to have worried.  I won’t know for a while how it will hold up over the long term, but that stuff may as well be called metal dye, not paint.  It goes on thin, covers in one coat, leaves almost no ‘thickness’ to speak of when it dries and is hard as the steel itself.  I tried to scratch it (after only 12 hours dry time- supposedly it gets harder with time) off of a cleat with a screwdriver.  Nothing but metal residue from the screwdriver left behind.  Crazy, crazy stuff and worth the money.  Just don’t get it on you!


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## Laurentian

Nice work Dave !
Any news on finding your rig ?


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## DAVENET

No luck at all.  Hoping that once the dirtbag feels everything has calmed down he will go looking for parts during the winter.


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## Mtn-Track

Sorry your rig is still missing.
Maybe have someone place a Craigslist ad that's a hundred miles or so away that says they're parting out an old Tucker Sno-Cat and have pontoons and tracks to get rid of... cheap. Wait and see who comes calling(?). The asshat that took yours has to be local since he knew where it was and when to take it. Just a thought.


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## DAVENET

I'm going to do that once the weather changes and it doesn't seem quite so obvious.  The guy I bought mine from is selling another (rougher shap) one on Craigs list and hasn't even had anyone call for any info yet.  So I'm hoping cooler weather will draw them out.

I can say, the closer it edges to winter, the more pissed off I get about it.


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## Laurentian

Sorry to hear that Dave..
I assume the one on Craig's list is from the
guy you bought yours from. Was tempted to call
but those tracks scared me right off 
I'll keep hunting for one, ideally a 1400 series with
the small rubber tracks, If I get any whiff of yours at
all I'll let you know. It's really too bad, your rig was 
a diamond in the rough.


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## DAVENET

Work stopage ends.  The first track was finished early spring.


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## DAVENET

Work on track two started last week.  Doing this track (and the next two) in smaller, bite sized segments so I can pull it apart, clean it, paint it, grease it and reassemble all pieces to the same spot they came from.


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## Nikson

lots of work...


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## Snowtrac Nome

here's  a question for you steel track tucker guys can you line the bottoms of your pontoons wih uhmw hdpe like the airboat guys do to reduge friction and give you a replacable wear surface i would think 1/4 or 3/8 inch would work well


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## DAVENET

It may work, but I would be worried that it would catch a rock or stick and come free.  If it got rotated back thru the track it's possible the tension would get so high that it would break the track before you got it stopped.  

That being said, it sounds like an interesting experiment for an old pontoon.  If you could get it anchored well enough at the front and roughly 4 - 5 inches up from the regular contact point so it had little chance of getting hooked by debris, it should work fine.


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## Snowtrac Nome

!/4 inch counter sunk screws is what they use on air boats and they run them across gravel bars  you would have to anchor good like a screw every inch or 2


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## DAVENET

Moisture between the HDPE and the bottom of the pontoon would also create some problems that would need to be resolved.  Accelerated rust would be one problem, but thaw freeze cycles would be working to create a ever increasing gap that would eventually cause the sheet to separate from the pontoon.

I guess if you had an old unit to test it on there is probably some sort of epoxy that would completely seal and bond the two together forever?


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## Snowtrac Nome

there is an adhisive called seca flex that would seal it well but it would be tough to replace i thk i would use silicone like the airboat guys if you wanted to sea the steel from rust i suppose you could use rhino lining i think it would be a cool idea to explore as your pontoons sitt so close to the ground having a replacable wear surface would be cool.


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## DAVENET

Mini update.  Still plugging away at the second track and rollers as time allows.  Fortunately my #1 helper is into the project as well.


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## DAVENET

And on a side note we went skiing at Pat's Peak a couple of weeks ago during their 50th birthday party.  They had a giant cake that had pictures from over the years (including the groomers), and a slide reel with even more pics, including the Tuckers.  After the presentation I happened to be next to the director of marketing and asked if it would be possible to get copies of the Tuckers from the slides.  After the curious look, I told her that I owned their old #6 and was restoring it.

She sent me to the two pictures that were in the slide presentation and was going to have her assistant gather the other ones (a lot I guess) that weren't shown.  Pretty cool:


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## meanjean

Man, you will have an awesome machine when you are done!!! Good luck with your project too. Great! There's a small ski hill nearby my home, and the guy who owns it has a Tucker in his back lot just sitting there. I went to see him last summer to find out if he wanted to sell it. No luck. His machine, although an earlier version like yours, had full groomer rubber tracks instead of metal cleats, as in your pictures. I thought that it would floats very well in deep snow. Anyway, have fun with your machine. Looks like a wonderful project. My new cat is a Thiokol 2100C.. Very wide track.


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## undy

Cool photos.  

Those chairlift chairs are _exactly_ the style they had at our local hill, Tyrol Basin, in the early 60's.  They had the strange swing-around safety gates, and the truss-style towers just like in your picture.  I've never seen that lift at any other ski area.  They used to have this funny little guy (from Switzerland, IIRC) who'd come around every summer to service the lift.


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## Laurentian

undy said:


> Cool photos.
> 
> Those chairlift chairs are _exactly_ the style they had at our local hill, Tyrol Basin, in the early 60's. They had the strange swing-around safety gates, and the truss-style towers just like in your picture. I've never seen that lift at any other ski area. They used to have this funny little guy (from Switzerland, IIRC) who'd come around every summer to service the lift.


 
Exact same chairs we had at our local ski hill in the Québec Laurentians, Mt-Gabriel, even had same towers. Was an eye opener when the swing gate would suddenly fly open while resting your skis on them ! ( worn catch ) Hehe. They removed them in the mid eighties. All triples and quads now.


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## DAVENET

The cool thing is the chairs have been changed, but the towers are still being used for a small double chair.


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## Blackfoot Tucker

The pictures of the chairs and Hugh's comments led me to do some research on chair lifts as I remember the center pole, double chair lifts from growing up in Vermont.

Anyway, in my research I ran across this video. It will get your attention and it's definitely worth a look: [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FwPP4i7ENvQ"]Chairlift Rollback Test - YouTube[/ame]


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## undy

Wow!  That's quite some footage.  No wonder all those guys at the base are seen running.

I've always wondered what such a breakdown would look like, and what the results would be.  That's really sobering.  I'd hate to have been a concrete block.  Should I be giving second thoughts to riding all those chairlifts?  (NAH!)

Most amazing though, is the idea that they could have resurrected that lift overnight!


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## WhiteMtnTucker

OK, Give me a couple days to get some pics to you. My roof and front frame around the windshield is one piece.


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## WhiteMtnTucker

Heres some pics of inside and outside front corners..


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## DAVENET

Awesome- thanks.  The frame looks exactly like mine (thought it was going to be a little higher). 

Looks like there's no way around fabing a filler panel to go from the A pillar to the new roof since everything in that area would be unnecessarily complex if made as one piece.  Complex for me anyway.  But it at least gives me some ideas on what's needed.


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## Track Addict

What's the status?  Had to go back a ways to find this.  Any progress?


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## Track Addict

PS wonder if the one on wheels in the picture is my donor?


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## DAVENET

Track Addict said:


> PS wonder if the one on wheels in the picture is my donor?



No side window over the tank (behind the doors) in the parade picture. That's not saying they didn't get cut in later for visibility though.

 edit- That one also has a metal roof, not fiberglass.  But I'm betting the one with the ladder in the back is one of ours.


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## DAVENET

Track Addict said:


> What's the status? Had to go back a ways to find this. Any progress?



 Funny timing.  Now that field hockey & fall baseball ended last weekend, I'm starting to stir the pot again.  

 I just called my buddy this morning to see if he had any sand blasting jobs coming up so he could take the four original pontoons down to steel before snow flies, then do work on them at his leisure when his guys are slow in the body shop.  I'll have him put two back to as close as new / perfect to match up with my two NOS pieces.  I'll have him take care of any issues on the other two and sell them off at some point.

 Another set of track is already in the garage ready to be rehabbed. Just need to clear motorcycles out of the way, pull in two cord of wood, finish building a rustic hutch for the cabin in NY this weekend, try to kill a deer or two, etc. etc. etc. 

 That's where being on here looking at your progress helps.  I have to find a longer day and start moving my ass or the kids will be gone and won't have the adventure with them!!!


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## Track Addict

Bump.  Meow mixer motivation?


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## Pontoon Princess

fabulous dave fabulous, it is great to see you are working on your tucker, if i can help? let me know, tuckerville


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## DAVENET

lol- I just rolled the other section of track out a couple of nights ago to straighten some links before moving on to the others.  A few more Lacrosse games / tourneys and it will free up a lot of summer work time.  The thing I need help with most is the one thing I can't make more of.  Time!


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## Pontoon Princess

ah ha, i have some on the shelf, in a bottle, can ship it as soon as i can find some time


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## Track Addict

I'm officially dangling your grill as the carrot!  Will probably be hanging in the garage for some time with a note: "Dave's Grill"


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## Pontoon Princess

they do make great BBQ grills, used 4 of them on the sno-BQ


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## Track Addict

Any progress?


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## DAVENET

None the past 6 months.    Just covered up with every other kid activity in the world that can't / shouldn't be missed.  You'll see soon enough . . .


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## Track Addict

Was up in Hillsborough NH today delivering a lot of vintage snowmobile parts.  Of course Tuckers came up.  One of the guys use to drive the Pat's Peak groomers and commented how much dope he smoked in those grooming.   I told him the cats were still alive and somewhat well.  Then I asked who put the wall to wall carpeting in my donor cat.  He took the credit for the cat scratching post upgrade.

He also mentioned that one of the cats the service guys welded a lock out for 4th gear because they were driving too fast causing roller issues.  He also took personal responsibility for rolling one of them over.  When they righted it they bent the frame the way they hooked it and pulled it over.  He believes it was sold for after that.

Small world!


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## DAVENET

That's awesome!  And it explains why I only have a three speed!!!  I've never heard of a 3 spd in that year Tucker and was afraid someone had blown it out at some point and swapped it.  A little grinding & it's fixed!

 I never noticed anything out of the norm on my frame (other than a ton of patches).  And my cab seems okay as well.  I wonder if it's the one Mark still has that rolled?


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## Track Addict

He said the rolled one sold early in life so probably went to a different home!


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## Snowtrac Nome

it is soo cool how we are able to compile history on these old cats here on this site wished I could get some history on my Thiokol 2100 as the diesel models were so rare and the turbo diesels were un heard of here in the us im betting my engine was changed at some point as it is a 363 not a 380 as Thiokol advertised it


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## aksnocat

That chairlift looks like a Mueller. We have one at the ski area where I ski - Ski Land.


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## Track Addict

The last of the kitty litter has found a new home.  Friend sent me this pic today.  His boss's friend bought it.  I believe it is staying local.  He has his work cut out for him.

Tried to keep the family together but we were too far apart!  Only took him 5 years to get the money for it.


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## DAVENET

I'm guessing it was quite the job just getting it up to that trailer from down by the barn . . .  I thought I heard a massive squeaking, squealing sound the other afternoon!


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## Pontoon Princess

interesting, when unloading a non running tucker, it seems that a excavator is the only tool you will need, yup addict, he has his work cut out for him and lots of it, does look like it has 31 grousers per pontoon, he is ahead of the game there...


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## Track Addict

Mine had 31 maybe 32 when I got it also!  One day I will be back to 31 on this machine or the next.


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## Pontoon Princess

still one grouser short!!!


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## DAVENET

I can't believe the tracks are on it at all. I figured that when he tried to move that one it would be so bound up it would just snap the connecting links off of it.


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## DAVENET

Well, I was having issues keeping the bearing stud spinning in the grouser holes of the track I’m working on now (finally ). There is barely any ‘perch’ left on this ice track. For the first two tracks I was able to use a deformed nut to hold them (to alleviate the chances of them loosening up as some had in the past). With the current one, it spins the stud as soon as the deformed part seats, sometimes sooner. So, I ordered up 200 zinc coated standard nuts & lock washers (no one stocks the 9/16” fine thread?). Using the lock washers to make sure they stay put. Also bought a corresponding die so I can clean up the stud threads prior to installing so there is no resistance before the nut bottoms out. 

Thank the sweet baby Buddha it's working great. I was REALLY dreading the idea of having to tack weld and file all of those holes . . . also crazy how some rollers are almost factory new, others are pizza cutters. So zig-zagging them down the line.


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## sno-drifter

Glad to see you fixing your cat tracks. The factory used the thinner star locks, both external and internal tooth. Using the thick lock washers will help to protect the grease fittings which can get dinged up during trailer loading and unloading. I see nothing wrong with doing it that way as long as you have adequate thread in the nut. Locking nuts do not work for the reasons you state. Chasing the threads good idea too.


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## DAVENET

I used the stars for the first tracks and wasn't worried because I was also using the deformed nut.  But have to say I wasn't too confident of them holding a standard nut on their own.  These lock washers have a pretty aggressive cut so I think they will hold well. The nut is grabbing 98% of the thread and as you stated, the grease fitting is _just _ a touch below or even with the flat surface of the nut so should offer good protection, as well as staying in place.


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## Track Addict

Great to see forward motion on the field here.  I instead of zig zag spacing wouldn't it be better to put them across and space those grouses with the better rollers equal through the track?

The thinking is instead of allowing the track to slide side to side following that zig zag it may run more true and straight?

Also did you have to straighten any slightly bent roller flanges on the grousers?/


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## DAVENET

I'm having to straighten / square almost every grouser flange.

 Really unknown on the zig-zag pattern vs. the good grouser/weak grouser pattern?  I guess I was thinking more of even wear in-line when I started and didn't really consider the possible lateral forces by going zig-zag? I'm guessing that my kids would be the ones worrying about it many years in the future with the way our winters keep going!  Just going to grease the crap out of them & run it!


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## Track Addict

What was the best method for bending ?


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## DAVENET

Just sticking them in a vise and bending back, then using a square to make sure I'm close.


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## funtracks

I also used the vise to bend them back but used a long bolt with a nut on both sides of the flange, bolt pointing in.  When you use this method with the bolt through the flange it magnified the about it was bent and made it easier for me to gauge how much to bend it back.  Basically I would bend it until the bolt was parallel with the connecting tube (triangle or round center tube).  I also kept taking a measurement from one bearing flange to the other making sure it was close to my "good" grousers.


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## DAVENET

*4 Gallon Bucket of Love*

Presidents Day = Vacation Day = Roller Refurbishment Day. I finally got a free day to myself and put it into the Tucker. Got to get this thing in motion since it won't be as much fun to enjoy from the other side of the dirt! 

I have to say the rollers on the first two tracks were fairly well greased. These two not so much. Previous owner must have started greasing at the front each time, and by the time the rear two pontoons came around he just said screw it. So, I ended up with 10 destroyed ones (like the five below). Luckily the ones I got from Muley180 are keeping me in business.


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## DAVENET

Out of all of the rollers I've cleaned, this is the only one I have seen that had this stamped into the shell flange.


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## Track Addict

Great to see progress.  Wire wheel?

Let me know if you need some lubriplate.  I have the east coast connection from friend sympathetic to Tuckers.


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## DAVENET

6 hours on the wheel yesterday.  It's unbelievable how dry some of these rollers were. As in dust coming out when they were spun on the wheel.


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## Pontoon Princess

so great to see you working on the tucker,  your pink pontoons will be there sooner than you think or ready for...


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## DAVENET

I know.  Time for panic to set in.  At least it's a good kick in the ass!


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## Pontoon Princess

git-R-done, dude


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## DAVENET

*Making a 443 from a 442 project(AKA The Decade Project!)*

Biannual update & review . . . . Tinkering . . .

Guides, rails & sprockets sand blasted & epoxy coated:


----------



## DAVENET

Unscrewing and un-riveting every panel.  Everything is free (other than one roof screw)and can be peeled off in 10 minutes when ready.


----------



## olympicorange

……  looking good D/N ….  are you planning on sliding rear of cab back, and then fabing the mid-section,....or......


----------



## DAVENET

I was originally going to do that, but now planning on a west coast open air concept . . .  Easier, more storage for hauls into camp, and buddies that don't care about the cozy amenities as long as there are cold beverages.


----------



## DAVENET

Going to try to fit some heater box repairs in-between pontoon work.


----------



## Pontoon Princess

I have a really really nice one that would be happy to give you


----------



## DAVENET

Sweet heat potpourri:


----------



## DAVENET

Pontoon Princess said:


> I have a really really nice one that would be happy to give you



  , but this is my 'challenge' project! (although I my need some core info depending on how that goes . . .)


----------



## DAVENET

This evenings "what's wrong here" challenge problem. Anyone see what's going on?


----------



## Track Addict

The mouse should stay at zero gravity between the fans if turn them both on. 

If you turn the heat on leave the defroster off it should cool down the cab nicely with the windshield air! Those close quarters generate plenty of body heat between the two occupants.


----------



## PJL

Is there a snowcat restoration that did not include removing mice from heaters?


----------



## olympicorange

DAVENET said:


> This evenings "what's wrong here" challenge problem. Anyone see what's going on?



  ………   the ''yellow '' sticker also doesn't instruct you to flip the fan blade over 180 degrees , for ccw rotation..lol,...  like a reversible radiator fan..... not that , that works on non-reversible fans... and,....


----------



## olympicorange

PJL said:


> Is there a snowcat restoration that did not include removing mice from heaters?




   …… not that ive ever run into,... and also air filter  bonnet's , have had a run of these this year..... remember sno-drifters earlier advice …  ppe & vacuums ….


----------



## DAVENET

Well, heat box complete, less a coil (currently). Replacement on the way. Mine didn't pressure test well (leak between tank & core) but may be salvageable at some point.


----------



## DAVENET

Batch two:


----------



## DAVENET

Heat three:


----------



## DAVENET

Some Carter BB1 carb work (Sorry for side view- pics won't stick & tired of trying!) :


----------



## DAVENET

Carb #2  --  An ultrasonic cleaner would kick ass, but would be a waste for the amount I would use it.  Good enough for a crawler!


----------



## Snowy Rivers

Cool
The accelerator plunger was definitely used up....

Should be sweet when ya get it back together...


----------



## Track Addict

Hobbs Carb shop Pelham NH best hidden gem around for carbs. Can’t go wrong 100$ or so well worth the rebuild.

Will look and function like new.


----------



## olympicorange

……  great shop and quality work,... have had them do many ,...


----------



## DAVENET

A buddy of mine (who is doing the machining work on my tables) called a month ago to have them rebuild a 4bbl on a 440 in a ski boat.  They are shutting down and no longer taking carbs in. The old man has solidly retired, his son is to the same point and the grandson had no interest in continuing the business.


----------



## DAVENET

Notes for future owners:

Clutch M/C is from a CHEVROLET 1960 -'62 C10. Centric #130.80003


Slave cylinder switches plumbing back to Dodge WM300. Number on cylinder was 29381-C (which if you try to search that item is being sold for $75-$110). Correct dished piston replacement is a Dorman CS33723. $22.79 from RockAuto.


----------



## DAVENET

Track Addict said:


> New tie rod is in the works...
> 
> ES2010L and R are the end part number. Thinking this kit for the upgrade. Sheet says 52 1/2”. Wonder if that is tube length or end length according to Tucker?
> 
> https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/TRESTAND-KIT.html



Well, going off the info from Tucker Someday and TA's repair, and even though I knew better (since we are dealing with Tuckers), I dove right into the shallow end to try to get rid of my angle iron reinforced draglink. Sister-ship on the same mountain, a year apart, you would think would have similar set-ups. Looking at the ends above I was thinking that sure seems 'small', but the tube kit looked rugged enough and obviously fit on TS's machine. Mine showed up Wednesday and all I can say is I can't believe the ES2010's hold up to the forces of turning a Tucker. Mine is completely different and WAY beefier from a heavy duty truck application. 

Original casting has 24-5000 on it (manufacturer unknown). Chasing sizes thru the parts book brings it to current day numbers: Meritor R230060(LH) and R230061(RH). Still searching the correct cross tube.


----------



## sledhead Ed

Dave Bergron 603-508-0961 carb. rebuilds Work at Hobb"s


----------



## sledhead Ed

I was given the info from a parts store driver. He's up by Epping I think he said and also 3 weeks out. Not going to be good without a good rebuilder around.


----------



## DAVENET

Yeup.  Unfortunately it's turned into a plug & play world with no need (desire) to fix a problem.  Just toss a new part at it.


----------



## olympicorange

DAVENET said:


> A buddy of mine (who is doing the machining work on my tables) called a month ago to have them rebuild a 4bbl on a 440 in a ski boat. They are shutting down and no longer taking carbs in. The old man has solidly retired, his son is to the same point and the grandson had no interest in continuing the business.




bummer,..  another old time business fades out,... what a shame.  having the same issues with my electrical /alt/starter,  and machine shop guys.  my engine machine shop, jerry, is 74,... and he says hes going to keep going till he can't any longer.  hope he lives to 125,... but im sure he doesn't.   the ''trades'' are , & have been in jeopardy for quite some time,... and when we're all done with the sno cat hobbies,...so will they...unfortunately,...  be strong....


----------



## Snowy Rivers

It is sad when the craftsmen fade away.

We used to have 3 automotive machine shops locally, now all of them are gone.

Luckily there are a couple startups with young folks running them.

The bad part is the old farts had many many decades of experience and new all the tricks.

I am happy to have my own mill and lathe right here to make or repair stuff.

Having been in the trades for many years helps..... I just wish I could have learned more from my father before he passed.

So many crafts are being lost....as the equipment has evolved into a more high tech arena the shops that were really handy with making carburetors work well have faded away.

Now ya need a doctorate in computer science and a mega $$$$$$$$$$$ scanner tool just to figure out why things don't work....

Even heavy equipment  ...including snow cats are stuffed full of computers.

All great...until they quit


----------



## Pontoon Princess

DAVENET said:


> Well, going off the info from Tucker Someday and TA's repair, and even though I knew better (since we are dealing with Tuckers), I dove right into the shallow end to try to get rid of my angle iron reinforced draglink. Sister-ship on the same mountain, a year apart, you would think would have similar set-ups. Looking at the ends above I was thinking that sure seems 'small', but the tube kit looked rugged enough and obviously fit on TS's machine. Mine showed up Wednesday and all I can say is I can't believe the ES2010's hold up to the forces of turning a Tucker. Mine is completely different and WAY beefier from a heavy duty truck application.
> 
> Original casting has 24-5000 on it (manufacturer unknown). Chasing sizes thru the parts book brings it to current day numbers: Meritor R230060(LH) and R230061(RH). Still searching the correct cross tube.



I believe you are looking at a standard 400 series with 3/4 inch roller/tie rod end and the bigger one is from a 400A series with 1 inch roller


----------



## Track Addict

Except on the 68 442A.  That one has the smaller tie rods and ends.

Let me know your tube solution.  Have two to build this fall!


----------



## Pontoon Princess

Track Addict said:


> Except on the 68 442A.  That one has the smaller tie rods and ends.
> 
> Let me know your tube solution.  Have two to build this fall!



and do you know they weren't replaced at some time? besides it is a tucker


----------



## Track Addict

They would have had to magically reduce the taper on the tables and center pivots tie rods.   Plus there is no room to have the bigger rod without hitting the transfer case on that machine.


----------



## Pontoon Princess

Track Addict said:


> They would have had to magically reduce the taper on the tables and center pivots tie rods.   Plus there is no room to have the bigger rod without hitting the transfer case on that machine.




maybe so, I have seen so many changes/repairs done to machine once they left the factory

but, we all forgot to read what is written the shop floor in chalk at the factory 

BUILD NO TWO TUCKERS THE SAME


----------



## DAVENET

DAVENET said:


> Original casting has 24-5000 on it (manufacturer unknown). Chasing sizes thru the parts book brings it to current day numbers: Meritor R230060(LH) and R230061(RH). Still searching the correct cross tube.



*End Number notes*: Meritor R230068(LH) and Meritor R230069(RH) ends are the same as the numbers above, but have 1/2" more thread length, are much more common and much less expensive.  For dimension reference: https://mpparts.com/part/meritor-r2...Ntc9XRXB-ytv1_bWciH_vVr4qDZnnpOUaAmugEALw_wcB

I needed to order them in to verify it would work since a lot of the time stock photos are used. All sizes are correct, but the actual ends have a very slight offset which leaves the rod proud (see arrow). I don't believe it will be enough to create an issue given the drop of the rod, but will need to test at full table deflection to verify.


----------



## DAVENET

Track Addict said:


> Let me know your tube solution. Have two to build this fall!



Kind of backed into the solution (of sorts) today.  An old tie rod we had in the cabinet that was used on the Freightliner FS-65 platform has the same ends as above (but they were using Euclid ends when we bought it).  The current Meritor number for the assembly is A2 3102Z3458.  *BUT,* the tube is 60" long. 

There is no listing anywhere that I can find for a 49" tube (with 1.125 threads). Since this rod uses only straight tubing (no tapers at either end), it will be pretty easy to chop to 49" and rethread the RH 1.125" threads into it.  And since that end can free float, there is no reason to cut slots into the tube for a clamp to work.


----------



## Track Addict

Dave is on to the solution. After discussion the plan is to get a 1 1/8 12 TPI Right hand tap and a drill bit to match.

Friend has a pass thru lathe.  Cut the right hand side off.  Trill tap done.

Nice work Dave!


----------



## Track Addict

Making American Great Again Tie rods!


----------



## Track Addict

NNS(New New Stock) Tie Rods ready for modification to NOS Tie Rods.

Tucker collaboration at its finest with Covid Cross Threads Contamination happening!


----------



## Track Addict

Plan A failed.  The pass thru lathe I have access to is not big enough.  The ID of the pipe is close only needed a little reaming but I couldn’t get the tap straight by hand.

Plan B was to cut and weld the tubes using the factory threads..  Ground a nice V clamped and spot welded.

The trueness meets or exceeds Tucker manufacturing standards.  These also come with a lifetime non-transferable Davenet warranty.

49” and 37.5” tubes ready to go on the sno!


----------



## DAVENET

Since the shafts were out to remove the transfer case & front turn assembly, I needed to call in a friend favor. The shafts both had dents from 50 years of the hard life and there was a lot of radial slop in both. And progressively worse as they extended. A friend of a friend works at a shaft shop so we sent them in. Even knowing the slow rotation application for the Tucker and light work going forward, his official opinion was "They're f**ked". Years and years of hooking up to drags, snow guns, other Tuckers, trees(?) and who knows what else beat them to death. Since the original slips haven't been made in years, everything was brought up to current day standards. Much more contact area on the spline section, so should be good for another 50-100 years.


----------



## Snowy Rivers

That there is some fine looking work.

Should actually be better than Tucker had it.


----------



## northerndave

Awesome work!


----------



## DAVENET

A little T-case freshen up


----------



## Track Addict

Anything to report from the inside?  Bearing seals shims...


----------



## DAVENET

All A-OK.  Crud clean, spit polish, shine.


----------



## Pontoon Princess

did you know

the tucker cap on the transfer case, is the very same one, used on the outside pontoon flange plate, the cap that covers the axle nut


----------



## Track Addict

Did you know when used on pontoons they used 3 screws?


----------



## DAVENET

The steering swing arm was getting blasted anyway for cleanup, but glad to have seen 1BG and track attics pod on cracking. Mine will definitely need Some tender loving care before repaint and install.     Obviously a shitty repair the first time around which failed a second time. Even the hole in the bushing was installed 90° off in the top pivot and is completely cracked.


----------



## Track Addict

Wow!

Do you have a pic of how the piston hooks on the bottom?

Looks like somone welded in a pin and the piston is on the outside?  If that is the case seems like addition twisting torque may put unneeded stress on the assemble and a return to factory alignment would be wise.

The rear mount must be worn broke bent or modified to get that angle I would think.


----------



## DAVENET

Optical illusion. I just had the pin hanging there during the photo before blasting. My pin comes completely out and my yolk straddles the lower arm just like yours. But it has taken a beating.


----------



## DAVENET

Fixed. T1 / A514 steel used in that saddle, so maybe (quite likely) The last person welding this up did not know what they were doing, or what they were working with. The fractures were enough that they (Multi-Weld Services) decided to remove the previous welds, V groove the cracks, clean the cracks, preheat the steel and weld to fill. Then those were ground flat where needed and quarter inch plates were added on three sides. Between the velvet smooth welds on the edges and the button welds in the middle of the plate, I doubt this will ever need to be touched again.


----------



## DAVENET

Round two


----------



## DAVENET

Round three


----------



## DAVENET

Final result


----------



## olympicorange

nicely done dave,...


----------



## DAVENET

Credit should go to Sno-drifter for the metallurgical assessment.  Otherwise it would have been handled as mild steel (like probably happened the last time) and another failure would have been in the future.


----------



## 1boringguy

Thanks for sharing your steering swing arm problem/solution. I just v'd mine out and welded, pre heat ect. But I figured mine was an isolated incidence. After seeing yours and TA's I don't think so. I was at Tucker Medford the other day and noticed a swing arm on a fab bench as I was getting the tour. I didn't get a pic  but it looked to me like they had bent a piece of .250 plate, as an overlay essentially as you created from three pieces, and welded it on as a doubler for strength essentially the same as you did without the plug welds. Even though mine is now power coated I think I'll blast it back off and do the same as you, then repowder coat it. Its got to be a problem area that needs the extrastrength. ?


----------



## DAVENET

I have a feeling it is MUCH more of a problem than owners are aware. It really is not that big of a project to get it out. And a quick trip thru the blast cabinet will certainly reveal more than most expect. Mine was close to catastrophic failure. And it would be a bad situation if that happened way out. The key is realizing what it was made of so it can be repaired correctly.


----------



## DAVENET

Dash work


----------



## Pontoon Princess

very nice, how would you like all expenses paid vacation to tuckerville, oh, you will have to "do a little wiring", 

where did you get the new looking heater knobs?


----------



## DAVENET

Heater Switch-Universal-12v-americanclassic.com
					

This has 4 switch positions.




					www.americanclassic.com
				




Looked forever for a vintage looking set that had both heat and defrost, but could only find heat.  Internally lit like the OEM ones as well.  Good enough for my application.


----------



## Track Addict

I have a cast orig clamp in the 69 for your steering column.  Cat going to pieces next year to support some of MT Washington needs.


----------



## DAVENET

Track Addict said:


> I have a cast orig clamp in the 69 for your steering column.  Cat going to pieces next year to support some of MT Washington needs.


Thanks, mine is actually on my work bench.  I took it off to clean it up and to make getting at everything easier. Also needed it free when putting in the M/C


----------



## Track Addict

What's that flat stock welded to the column?


----------



## DAVENET

Hard to see in the picture, but there are bolts on top of the collar.  The other end of the flat stock goes up to the master cylinder mount plate.


----------



## DAVENET

Apprentice mishap?  I was bead blasting the dash frame yesterday and came across something interesting under the layers of mouse piss on top by the louvers.  In the cabinet it didn't look uniform and thought I was missing spots.  Turns out 53 years ago someone cut holes in the wrong spot on both sides.  The correct ones got cut and patches were added in to fill the ones in the wrong locations.


----------



## Pontoon Princess

LOL

is that the only high quality OOOOPS you have found???


----------



## DAVENET

The first that surprised me!


----------



## Blackfoot Tucker

That seems like a much more sincere effort to fix a mistake than I've seen on any Tucker I've worked on.


----------



## Pontoon Princess

DAVENET said:


> The first that surprised me!


so, what you are saying, that you have found countless OOOPS, but, this one, surprised you, because the quality of work


----------



## DAVENET

That would be correct!


----------



## DAVENET

Some Pat's Peak door work


----------



## DAVENET

Someone thought it would be a good idea to remove old decals with an angle grinder . . .


----------



## DAVENET

Dash Complete:


----------



## Snowy Rivers

Using a grinder on decals Hmmmm ... sort of like using a Howitzer to kill a mouse ????
The are some very nice bomb can spray on goods to remove decals....

Doors looking very nice.


----------



## olympicorange

looking great Dave, ...  keep up the good work,...


----------



## DAVENET

Finally time to start heading the other way.  Painting the front cowl and installing twisty, swingy things.


----------



## redsqwrl

With all the horse shit that was this past year behind me... I am finally able to catch up a bit here at the all-things-over-the-snow-motivational-training-series.

I always wondered what having the ability to work on one project at a time was like........ !!!!! thanks for sharing. Looking great.


----------



## DAVENET

I’m guessing the reason is since I have so much multi-tasking in my job, I try to keep all other stuff semi OCD compact and in line.  Pick a segment, see it thru, next segment.


----------



## DAVENET

Some front turntable / trundle progress.  Slow progress, but beggars can be only semi choosy.  It will be interesting to move it around with no clinking, clunking or slop.


----------



## DAVENET

Between springs rubbing and nuts without washers (WTF??) it was pretty ugly.  Bored, bushed, filled and welded.


----------



## DAVENET

Trunion pin was all out of round and pitted from over greasing .  Turned everything down, re-sleeved and turned back to specs.  More to come on this as work is still in progress.


----------



## Track Addict

I had thought of that spring contour was by design but this makes more sense.  Could figure out how they carved that in.

Nice progress.


----------



## DAVENET

Track Addict said:


> I had thought of that spring contour was by design but this makes more sense.  Could figure out how they carved that in.
> 
> Nice progress.


Other side was worse than the first. If possible.


----------



## DAVENET

Slow going in the NE with the tropical weather in place for July (unlike the rest of the country).  Rain 20 out of 23 days.  Already the rainiest July and the 5th wettest month in recorded history.   But, floors cut, installed, supported and screwed.  Teflon tape applied between frame and sheets to stop galvanic corrosion and deaden any metal to metal contact.  The .090 will certainly hold up better than the .063 I pulled out.  The old floorboards were completely distorted.


----------



## Pontoon Princess

carry on tucker warrior


----------



## Track Addict

Got some testing hail accumluatik this evening!  Not all winter is lost with summer.


----------



## DAVENET

Finishing up work on the front (finally).  Had tons of repair work to do to get it back to right.  Springs and bolt threads had hammered the spring hanger holes, so everything had to be realigned, straightened, bored, bushed, welded.  A complete shit show. Thank goodness I have friends with tools.


----------



## DAVENET

Thanks to TA and Drifter providing their wisdom ahead of time to guide the way (https://www.forumsforums.com/threads/1973-tucker-sno-cat-1443-new-to-me.75566/page-24#post-20679068). The trunnion was only slightly out of round, so it got a light pass to make true again. The pin was a different issue. The only real solution was up in post 168. Take it down, sleeve it, weld it, turn again to specs. The front roller was a mess. It was installed incorrectly at some point which explains why it was farther to the rear than it should have been. As you can see in the first pic, it may have been moved back to potentially increase the angle and keep the trunnion and turntable from making contact. Either way, a 1/16th needed to be added front & rear to keep the two from kissing. And like TA's, there was plenty of slop front to rear (1/8") on it as well. So, the pin taken down so that a .062 top hat sleeve could be pressed on and a flat 'shim' added to the bottom. This will ride in a bronze wear sleeve in the turntable (no pic). Shims added to stop the linear slop as well.


----------



## DAVENET

The next vid is the most unnerving one of unobtainium being turned down knowing that forward is the only way at that point!  If you don't have broadband, don't bother.  Your computer will melt.


----------



## Pontoon Princess

davenet,

I am so impressed with your efforts to do things right, you inspire me to keep trying to do better, well done.....

you in good company with the likes of Blackfoot Tucker, 1boring guy, TA, bobcatbob, turbinator, puckle, GMOoSE and I am sure I forgot a couple others, sorry,

great job guys


----------



## Track Addict

This thing hitting the local testing grounds this year?


----------



## Bobcatbob

DAVENET said:


> The next vid is the most unnerving one of unobtainium being turned down knowing that forward is the only way at that point!  If you don't have broadband, don't bother.  Your computer will melt.


Holy cow!  Is that a manual mill you’re doing that on?  Rotary chuck underneath?  That is SKILL!


----------



## DAVENET

Bobcatbob said:


> Holy cow!  Is that a manual mill you’re doing that on?  Rotary chuck underneath?  That is SKILL!


Not me . . . I just watch and grimace.


----------



## DAVENET

Track Addict said:


> This thing hitting the local testing grounds this year?


Try as I may, try as I might, this year I will lose the fight.  Yet again.  But, I do believe I'm at better than 80% full completion.  I could easily just throw it on the snow and run it, but where it will live makes it difficult to do quick or repetitive repairs.  So I would rather just have it right coming out of the gate.  Next summer/fall will be loaded up running down the check list of crap I've removed/replaced/added, but haven't been able to test.  I'm praying there aren't a ton of wormholes I have to work thru between motor electricals/upgrades, dash electricals/upgrades. I suck at electrical, so I'm praying my notes, labels, drawings, rewiring was all good (even though I triple checked because it is my nemesis). Track adjustment will be needed- at least for one.  Three came apart and were reassembled in the exact same order so 'should' be close.  The first one I did was a complete breakdown all at once.  It WILL have issues with adjustment fitting in the sprocket correctly.  Hydraulics are all dry other than holding oil in the pump & orbital.  Was originally shit-canning the drag valve and plumbing, but that changed a couple weeks ago.  Valve was reworked and now deciding if I'm going to bother with the hoses.  Don't really feel like incurring the cost of 4 new ones, but kind of pointless when a 30/yo hose pops first trip out.


----------



## Track Addict

I would replace everything on the steering and return lines.  The remote lines to rear you could reuse if your not using implement and remove the lever for safety.


----------



## DAVENET

Um, yeah.  That was the plan.  But that scoundrel rodent from Wisconsin was heading east with a mostly open trailer and twisted my little finger to fill it.  I was going to go electric like you did, but this one would be cost prohibitive to change to all elec. to work right.  Everything is there already and has worked for 50 years.  So screw it - put it back the way it was! 

Just waiting on a photo of the OEM levers before cutting the floor and mounting the valve.  Mine only had a single lever when I got it and it was heavily modified, leading me to believe it wasn't that way to start with.


----------



## Track Addict

I have that setup with levers sitting in my garage with hoses. Out of the 442.

Should be the same setup.  Was headed to sit in Thornton


----------



## DAVENET

Click a pic of the levers on yours.   Just curious what it has.  Still got my hoses in the shed,


----------



## Track Addict

They look smaller here.


----------



## DAVENET

Those are much smaller, and more in line with what I would have expected.  My handle is home made to reach out in front of the seat instead of between them.  No idea why they got rid of the second one.


----------



## redsqwrl

DAVENET said:


> Those are much smaller, and more in line with what I would have expected.  My handle is home made to reach out in front of the seat instead of between them.  No idea why they got rid of the second one.


Groomer operator hat on.:

if they were not needing it. and someone was riding shot-gun. that handle creates quite a bruise.
If the operator ran solo, coming up to roads and drive-ways needing to butter the snow out of the drag to create that perfect ribbon is an art.  one bump of the wrong stick makes a speed bump of snow and back you go to smooth it out. after about 100 turn arounds that hitch stick has to go.  In our case one stick is the hitch, the other wheels.


----------



## DAVENET

Mine was completely gone.  Seems like it could have been shortened to avoid the prodding, but still be utilized . . .


----------



## DAVENET

Brian, willing to part w/ the OEM levers on that?


----------



## Track Addict

Happy to.  It was headed north waiting for a new use better than sitting in my garage.

The 69 down back has a setup also I believe.


----------



## DAVENET

All I need are the levers and the links/pins. Thornton would probably benefit from the valve body though


----------



## Track Addict

Yup take what you need.  Around anytime!


----------



## Track Addict

Levers have been placed under the Christmas tree for this project!  

Sno will be in the stockings hopefully…..


----------



## DAVENET

Front is done and reinstalled for rocking, turning action.


----------



## DAVENET

Was hoping the rear wasn't going to be as bad as the front.  Yeah.  Not as many parts, so not as much work, but work none the less.  Nice hydraulic hose spring bushings . . .


----------



## Amdiesel

DAVENET said:


> The steering swing arm was getting blasted anyway for cleanup, but glad to have seen 1BG and track attics pod on cracking. Mine will definitely need Some tender loving care before repaint and install.     Obviously a shitty repair the first time around which failed a second time. Even the hole in the bushing was installed 90° off in the top pivot and is completely cracked.


Are guys replacing the bushings in the mounts or replacing with  a pillow block bearing and a set screw? I’m in the middle of doing new tie rod ends on my 1542, I went with both of the meritor p/n and had to cut them down about 3/4” to sit all of the way into the tie rod to line up correct. But while removing the rear rod I found a 1/8” gap in between the bushing and the mount. I’m trying to get ahead of this and not have any issues as I’m taking it to cat clowder in February which is about a 17hr drive so I’m trying to cover all the bases to avoid a crippling break down on the trails. Now after seeing these posts I’m going to pull the whole steering swing arm out and inspect for cracks. My cat has 5600hrs and 22k miles so god only know what it’s been through out there.


----------



## DAVENET

I didn't post a pic of them pressed in, but the number I needed was #6338K482 from McMaster Carr.  I did have to turn down the inner shaft surface because the bushings come thru square and where the shaft of the swing frame meets is radiused. 

Definitely take the time to get that blasted and inspect it closely.  And then make sure if a repair is done, it is done correctly for the material it's made of.  No welder will assume it is structural T1 / A514 and will weld it improperly like my first repair was done.


----------



## Amdiesel

DAVENET said:


> I didn't post a pic of them pressed in, but the number I needed was #6338K482 from McMaster Carr.  I did have to turn down the inner shaft surface because the bushings come thru square and where the shaft of the swing frame meets is radiused.
> 
> Definitely take the time to get that blasted and inspect it closely.  And then make sure if a repair is done, it is done correctly for the material it's made of.  No welder will assume it is structural T1 / A514 and will weld it improperly like my first repair was done.


I appreciate that! I own my own diesel and heavy equipment repair and fab shop so Iv got everything to do the repair. Mine wasn’t cast like yours but I did a repair close to yours. Sand blasted,  Ground the cracks and welded. Then plated the 3 sides and welded all of that in too. This was pretty much the end result.


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## DAVENET

All sorts of 'hackage' on the rear table. Cobbed in collar spacers for bearings, threaded bolts w/ some of the thread turned down for the collars to roll on, no way to get grease to them, etc., etc.  Since the holes in the table had already been enlarged to take the larger bolts on the left & right, we just turned the bolts down for a smooth surface and machined new rollers to fit them and inside the guide channels. Also added grease ports.  The channels were distorted on the top from carrying the weight, so we removed them (HUGE steel/alum. pain in the ass to get unthreaded) and flipped 180* to the flat side.


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## DAVENET

With all of the wear and wobbling on the outside edges, of course the pivot point wearing all wonky.  It had probably 1/32 to 1/16" play when moving fore & aft.  No need to do the other stuff if it was still going to be moving all over the place.  Pete (master machinist buddy) has been making everything round again and is in the process of cutting a top-hat sleeve to take up the gap between the two to fit into the 'cup'. It also needs to raise the upper plate back up .093 from frictional wear due to excessive greasing   .  You can see how badly pitted the post was in #33.


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## DAVENET

Finally back together.  Springs re-arched and fresh bushings inserted.  Just waiting on fresh bearings to get pressed back onto the axles before bolting the rear-end back onto the table.  Should happen this weekend.  A shit-ton of fixing to get everything back to turning in a level plane and to fix the spring wear in the table itself.  Slides like two sticks of butter rubbed together now.  May not have ever been this 'tight and level' in it's history?


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## Track Addict

That closed rear Chanel is interesting.  Wonder why they needed a stop like that?

Should be open and quite possible snow/ice builds up and prevents full swing on back but allows front which may equal bad?


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## DAVENET

Honestly I thought they were all like that?  It should allow full turning potential, as is, I would imagine.  The two outside roller bolts had been replaced after the fact, but the rear center pin is stock and had no bending.  Thinking about it now, the channel did not have any contact spot on those outside plates where the roller would have been hitting it.  So, if it touched, it was minimal and not often. But they were arched up from carrying to much weight, so I flipped them in place to start with a fresh flat surface.


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## sledhead Ed

Do you think the welded the plates on the end of the channel thinking it would keep the channel tight and not bending or flexing?


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## DAVENET

In theory it should, but it was bent as well, even with the plates.  So it also got flipped 180.  I assumed they all were like that to keep the rollers from walking out of the channels during full turn, heavy deflection turns.


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## Track Addict

That's a one of a kind so far from what I have seen.  Pivot set correctly then the tie rods and tables aligned should prevent it walking out.

Doing a turn back up hill grooming after coming down with equipment would add forces.  Maybe that was the local upgrade/enhancement!  Ed Gil himself.


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## sno-drifter

I have never seen the channel with the end capped. That said, I did see a 500 machine with the roller on top of the channel. I don't know how long it ran like that before I got it. It required disassembling parts to get it back where it belonged. While the capping will add strength, proper operation of the machine should not require it. I would remove the end caps for the reason TA stated, given the wrong set of conditions of snow, temperatures, moisture content, etc.; snow packing could cause trouble which would not be evident until bad stuff happens. More likely situation, given you as operator, than the abuse condition.


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## DAVENET

Rear end bolted back in place and officially out of dry-dock, i.e., off the oak stands.  End brackets cut off center channel.


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## Bennyboy1337

DAVENET said:


> Rear end bolted back in place and officially out of dry-dock, i.e., off the oak stands.  End brackets cut off center channel.


Looking clean. Did you have a spring shop punch out your leaves or add a new leave when you rebuilt them? Or did you just disassemble, blast, spray, add new bushings? I'm debating taking a leaf pack to my local spring shop and asking if they could refurbish them.


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## Blackfoot Tucker

DAVENET said:


> Rear end bolted back in place and officially out of dry-dock, i.e., off the oak stands.  End brackets cut off center channel.


Dave,

That looks REALLY nice, and working on snowcat stuff in the heat of summer gets you major style points!

I don't know if it's the same on steel track Tuckers, but on rubber belted Tuckers the rear bolt on the left forward spring pack, and the forward bolt on the right rear spring pack are inserted in the opposite direction from normal, with the bolt head on the inside and the nut on the outside. The reason is for greater clearance with the steering components.


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## DAVENET

Blackfoot Tucker said:


> Dave,
> 
> That looks REALLY nice, and working on snowcat stuff in the heat of summer gets you major style points!
> 
> I don't know if it's the same on steel track Tuckers, but on rubber belted Tuckers the rear bolt on the left forward spring pack, and the forward bolt on the right rear spring pack are inserted in the opposite direction from normal, with the bolt head on the inside and the nut on the outside. The reason is for greater clearance with the steering components.



 I double checked that on the front and then doubled it on the rear. BUT, it was going to be a pain in the ass to get it out there as an assembly without the wheeler, so I had the boy help me carry the refurbed axle out and then brought out the table / spring assembly. To get them mated again easily I removed the spring bolts, swung the springs over onto the axle, bolted everything together, then flipped the table up and re-bolted (incorrectly)!  Thank you for catching that because I probably wouldn't have, until after contact was made.


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## DAVENET

Bennyboy1337 said:


> Looking clean. Did you have a spring shop punch out your leaves or add a new leave when you rebuilt them? Or did you just disassemble, blast, spray, add new bushings? I'm debating taking a leaf pack to my local spring shop and asking if they could refurbish them.


The rears were obviously worked the hardest and only had hydraulic hose bushings.  I took to my local spring shop and had them re-arched and nylon bushed.  Then blast & paint.


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## DAVENET

Busy week & weekend now that the heat finally broke.  True hillbilly sh!t out front with an extension cord thru the woods to run a fan to make it bearable before that!  Lifted both ends so everything could move freely. Hydraulic cylinder centered and draglinks adjusted to get front and rear running inline again.  All tightened back up.  Electrical dash work 98% complete.  And by the grace of the Sweet Baby Jesus it all works as it should.  Had a glitch with the 'auto park' feature on the wipers.  I had run them multiple times without the dash in place to make sure everything was set.  Of course, after reinstalling the dash the LH side sweeps half way and stops.  Yank dash, cuss, test motor, cuss a little, check harness, cuss some more.  Leave auto park unplugged and all is good.  Screw it- I know how to push the switch to stop them at the edge. Cuss and reinstall dash, again. (Whoever got that task at Tucker when they were being built was being punished).  The faceplate support brackets designed by the masters (Scott & BFT) worked brilliantly.  Reinstalled radiator and all plumbing to start rehydrating.


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## DAVENET

Tooned up


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## DAVENET

Labor Day gave the first run in 6+ years since I really started ripping stuff off. Front water bypass hole leak prompted multiple cuss sessions trying to figure out where it was coming from since it appeared to be the back of the water pump. New (correct!) head gasket installed and problem solved.


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## DAVENET

Second run up


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## redsqwrl

What kind of medication does one take to start and finish one project?


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## m1west

Going broke will end the sickness, maybe


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## 230 Pilot

Looks great, keep up the good work.


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## Pontoon Princess

fabulous, fabulous, fabulous...


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## DAVENET

redsqwrl said:


> What kind of medication does one take to start and finish one project?


Seagram's 7


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## Track Addict

This is the only medication I know of but then again I don’t know much!


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## Snowy Rivers

Sucking on the "Cat KOOL-AID"   

Snow cats...An incurable disease......
Mix the Kool-Aid 50/50 with some good high octane libations .....Does not cure the issue....but it will take your mind off it for a while....


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## PJL

redsqwrl said:


> What kind of medication does one take to start and finish one project?


Ethanol.


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## Cidertom

PJL said:


> Ethanol.


I am not advocating anyone consume ethanol. But, in several of my projects, where I dither about this or that or the other option, the application of "thought solvent" (AKA, Eagle Rare.....) and I make progress as it becomes evident which option to do.   So far the only time I woke up in the morning after with a feeling I made the wrong choice is when I told the guy' Yes, I'll buy the snow trac'.


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## DAVENET

Got the mouse deterrent panels (doors) hung just in time for the fall nesting period.  Seats installed.  All glass installed.  Back wall attached.


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## DAVENET

Round 2


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## 230 Pilot

Looks great ,Dave


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## Blackfoot Tucker

Wow! 

Absolutely gorgeous, and the before and after pics really highlight the beautiful and thorough job you've done!!!!!


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## 1boringguy

I'll second that, "Wow". Really looking good. Maybe I missed it in an earlier post, but what's the black material you used for the doors and floor?


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## DAVENET

Plain ole anti-fatigue mat from Home Depot.  The heater would cook you out even if it was bare aluminum, but wanted sound deadening.  Also installed a 90* shutoff in the heater line to help control the flow of coolant to the heater.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Traffic...48-in-Foam-Mat-60-169-0900-30000400/203992918


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## 1boringguy

Looks good. I'll have to check it out next trip to HD. Good find on the seats as well.


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## Snowy Rivers

It's amazing what sort of materials can be scared up at the Depot...
The rubber mat looks great


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## Bennyboy1337

DAVENET said:


> Tooned up



Did you have to replace any of the studs on your pontoons, this one looks like it was a goner. Did you just weld some stock threaded rod to a plate and sandwich? Curious how much of a paint the repair was


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## DAVENET

Bennyboy1337 said:


> Did you have to replace any of the studs on your pontoons, this one looks like it was a goner. Did you just weld some stock threaded rod to a plate and sandwich? Curious how much of a paint the repair was


To quote, "a complete pain in the ass".   It was accessed from the back side of the pontoon. A bolt and shaved fender washer were glassed in.  You can see the plugs in this pic.  Two needed to be repaired like this.


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## DAVENET

Spent yesterday getting the pontoon shoes cut and bent to match the template.  Glad I had the day off!  Took a little while to figure out the 'cheats'.


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## DAVENET

Mild update.  All front panels & grill attached, exhaust run, headlights hung and lights providing illumination.

BFT:  I was going to revamp the lower exhaust tube on the muffler section you gave me to try to make it workable, but no easy way for it to happen.  PP realized this going in and gave me an intact OEM setup that slid right into place once I had the new outlet pipe bent.   So, to pay it forward, if someone needs a muffler section (2" inlet / 2" outlet) let me know and we'll work out how to get it to you.


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## DAVENET

Headlights done (with a spare shell)


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## DAVENET

Still Tooning it up.  More of a PITA than expected.


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## olympicorange

look'n great dave,....


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## DAVENET

Well, well, well, looky who showed back up!  Word is you've had a busy summer yourself in the north country.  How about some updates on Nellie and other projects going on around the 'lake'?!


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## DAVENET

Chasing grounding gremlins.   Maybe this will help someone in the future when they are pulling out their hair.

I wired up the headlights a few weeks ago and everything was golden.  I added a horn back onto the cat last weekend.  The original had been dispatched long ago.  Instead of using the old horn relay that was firewall mounted, I used one of the new relays in the cam to power it.  Should have been pretty straight forward, correct? (Even for an electrical idiot like me).  Wire it, check it, test it, nothing. Check and verify I have done it correctly multiple times and still nothing.  Relay wired wrong? Or bad?? I grab the old three prong relay and plug everything in to test. Now I'm thinking the wire thru the column has broken internally.  Was about at my snapping point.  Instead of using the horn button to test again I just grabbed a stripped wire to make the jump from internal wire to column. A slight beep then nothing. Wiggle the wire on the column a little and the horn works.  Solution to others:  When remounting the steering wheel, take a Dremel with a wire brush and clean all of the threads in the nut and on the column to complete the circuit. 

Then I proceed to turn on the headlights.  Nothing.   Swap the fuse, pull the switch and it immediately pops. Spend an hour trying to figure out how the horn work could have possibly affected the lights.  Pop the dash panel back out to verify everything was still ok.  Trace everything a third time.  Stumped.  Go to bed thinking about it and wake up thinking about it.  Riding to work it dawns on me only spot that could be grounding out is by the lights.  I'm not sure if every Tucker has this, but on my headlight / radiator support brackets I have positive and negative power contact points.  They aren't 'powered', they are just contact points that are mounted on non conductive phenolic pads.  Feed power to the top with the power lead for the light, use the bottom to continue the feed to the other side.  I unscrew these and just attach the wires directly together to test.  Lights work.  Why did they work for 3 weeks with no problem and just quit? Solution to others:  Even though screws going into those connections look OEM, don't assume that they are. The screws only have 1/4" of thread to keep from contacting the steel plate they are mounted on.  One of mine was 3/8".  It worked fine and wasn't a problem . . . until the vibrations from the engine running finally scrubbed away the paint to ground and short.

I did have a stiff drink last night to celebrate that mild victory over the gods of electrical currents.


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## redsqwrl

I feel for your ego.

In my world a lot of horn circuits are grounded to turn on the relay in essence the ONe wire up the column is grounded at the wheel to pull in relay.


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## redsqwrl




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## DAVENET

That was the exact reference diagram I used when converting from the 3 prong.  But, nothing was going to work until I cleaned up the threads so the ground path was cleared


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## redsqwrl

DAVENET said:


> That was the exact reference diagram I used when converting from the 3 prong.  But, nothing was going to work until I cleaned up the threads so the ground path was cleared


Ok just making sure you are not one of those guys....


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## DAVENET

Took yesterday off to try to get the pontoons and tracks mounted before the 1-3 inches of rain that is coming tonight and the deep freeze that is following behind.  I should have taken today also.  It's obviously doable by one person, with the correct equipment in a day, but apparently not this guy, in the driveway, with a bottle jack (on the shortest day of the year).  The 10 year difference in body aging obviously doesn't help either!  I can still do it, just not as fast!  

Anyway, pontoons are done and all four remounted.  Two tracks pulled into place and hopefully getting strapped back together tonight. Hood remounted, so body is done (other than some reworking of the door paint in the future since my talents are more than lacking compared to everything else).


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## DAVENET

'Toons done and hung


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## luvthemvws

It's looking Great!
Your workmanship looks first rate to me!
 (Your cabinet appears to be missing a Speedway Motors sticker, though. So it is incomplete.  )


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## DAVENET

Oh, rest assured they are represented somewhere in one of the cabinets from funds I have sent their way!


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## redsqwrl

well Im off today, and it appears to be a mental health day.  ( I self prescribe these when I can find a gear to get moving) so you are 6 steps ahead of this turd.

OUr moisture fell as white flaky water chips, and temps are dropping steady....


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