# CHANGING TO SYNTHETIC ENGINE OIL



## GYPSY

What are your thoughts on changing from mineral oil to synthetic oil in a 40 year old flat head Ford engine?   It is still in running condition and has never been rebuilt.   The only reason to consider the change was the possibility of easier extrem cold weather starts with no preheat available.  
Thanks for your thoughts.


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## Junkman

I wouldn't because it might cause leaks.  Just continue to use what you have been using and put a light bulb under the hood for some warmth.  Synthetic can clean out sludge that is sealing minor leaks and make them big leaks.  If you start with it then you don't have that problem.  It is claimed that this problem was resolved with the modern synthetics, but I have no information other than others past experiences.


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## ghautz

GYPSY said:
			
		

> What are your thoughts on changing from mineral oil to synthetic oil in a 40 year old flat head Ford engine?   It is still in running condition and has never been rebuilt.   The only reason to consider the change was the possibility of easier extrem cold weather starts with no preheat available.
> Thanks for your thoughts.



Just curiosity--what model of Ford is it in?  I thought Ford dropped the flathead in '54.


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## GYPSY

1959 Tucker Sno Kitten using a Ford Anglia (european) engine.   It is used in remote areas where no cold starting devices (heat or electric) are available.  I thought synthetic motor oil may make it easier to start in subzero temperatures.   I have concerns about running the synthetic oil in that old an engine and breaking all the oil deposits loose.


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## Doc

I switched to synthetic last year in an older boat.  The boat had 1300 hours on it.  No problems at all.  The running temperature lowered considerably because of lower friction. 
Syn would make it start easier in sub zero temps, and it stays on the cylinder walls longer to help with easier starts but your concern is valid about breaking up old oil deposits.  No 100% right answer on this one, but I would be tempted to try it.


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## Polar

Dear Gypsy,

I have the same concern as you as I too have a '59 Sno-kitten! I talked to Tucker Corp and they recommended 10W-30. I also spoke with Cooks Equipment back East (a Tucker dealer) and they recommended the same with a mention that a detergent-free oil could be best, so as to keep the 'scorings in the cylinder walls from being cleaned out and lowering engine compression possibly". (My local auto parts places do not carry detergent-free oil, so no luck there.) Both Tucker dealers I spoke with don't have much experience with extreme cold like we do in the Rockies so I'm currently using 5w-30 so it'll start easily. I've added some Lucas heavy-duty oil stabilizer to help with any compression loss and to keep the oil from running off surfaces while sitting. I used only 1/2 the suggested ration from Lucas so it'd stay viscous enough to start. Well I don't know if that was a good move or not from 10w-30 but I'm currently trying it. A magnetic block heater (stick it to oil pan) for starting may be your best bet if you have some real AC available for cold starts.

I also run SeaFoam in my oil to help clean out the exhaust valves of excess carbon. Additionally I had a case of bad fuel that caused my intake valves to stick (a very common problem with classic cars that sit unused). A good treatment for that is to dump SeaFoam down the carb to really clean things out (carb, intake manifold, intake valves). I add it to my gas as well, so as to clean the gas tank, fuel lines, fuel pump and carb. Supposed to be a wonder additive. If you've never done that before, it might be a good treatment to try.

All of this is my short-term plan until I figure out anything better to do! Oh yeah, I'm running Amsoil synthetic Severe Duty in the rear end 75w-140. 

Send me a pick of your Kitten, love to see it!


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## Doc

Welcome to Forums Forums Polar!!!!!
How about you and Gypsy both post pics of your Kittens here on FF.  We'd all like to see them!


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## thcri RIP

Doc said:
			
		

> Welcome to Forums Forums Polar!!!!!
> How about you and Gypsy both post pics of your Kittens here on FF.  We'd all like to see them!




Doc,

You've never asked me to post my kittens


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## elsmitro

Never asked to see mine either.


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## Doc

Not exactly the kind of kittens I was expecting Murph, but a darn good pic none-the-less.  




			
				elsmitro said:
			
		

> Never asked to see mine either.



Wildman, I was afraid yours would be of those gals at the VIP club down the road.


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## GYPSY

Pictures are in the Snocat site.

Link to one of Gypsy's photos:
http://www.forumsforums.com/3_9/showpost.php?p=51447&postcount=10


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## Vicsvw

Junkman said:


> I wouldn't because it might cause leaks.  Just continue to use what you have been using and put a light bulb under the hood for some warmth.  Synthetic can clean out sludge that is sealing minor leaks and make them big leaks.  If you start with it then you don't have that problem.  It is claimed that this problem was resolved with the modern synthetics, but I have no information other than others past experiences.


************
Had that problem with leaking when Castrol 1st came out with Synthetic oil.
Then when the switched to Sintech the leakage stopped. Castrol would not come out and say the had a Problem but they sure changed it in a hurry. Vic.
***********************************Now I am trying to find out if the new "EDGE" will be OK in my Ranch Pony "Yamaha Rhino" and the CVT Transmission and drive belt. Please let me know if you have any information.   Vic.


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## Doc

I would guess you would be fine.  Since that thread started in 06 I've switched to synthetic in everything I own.  RTV, ATV's, ZTR Mower, Cars, Truck and boat.  Noticed the biggest change in the boat when operating temp dropped from 162 to 155.  The boat is a 454 big block and uses oil.  With synthetic I used less oil than with dino.  And no leaks in anything do to the switch to synthetic and my boat is 25 years old.   I would guess all new machinery, such as the Rhino, is capable of running synthetic with no negative issues.


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## 300 H and H

I'd lke to share something here not mentioned so far. i have been experimenting with synthetic/dino blends. There are several out on the market, one of witch I chose for the Snow Trac for the Michigan trip in -20 weather. I made the switch just prior to our leaving. 5W 30 in the VW worked well and carried good oil preasure. It started much easier IMHO than it would have each morning. I have read you get many of the sythetic benifits without some of the issues of a full synthetic oil. 

Regards, Kirk


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## Snowtrac Nome

the only problem with synthetic oil is it's a long chain polymer, if you have a leak   because the molecule's are interlocked it will pull a little more from the seal. this is also why you get better lubrication from synthetic. most all modern oils are hi detergent you have a hard time finding low detergent oils and oils with zinc in them you could look at aviation products but these are extremely thick. I would not have a problem with synthetic and run it in every thing I have except my aircooled motors.


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