# Front End Loader problems!



## Melensdad

I think my control valve went out on my FEL.

The Front Loader raises and lowers, but the bucket control portion of the 4 way control valve won't control the bucket.  The joystick moves into position to tip the bucket just like it should but the bucket just sort of "kicks" and does nothing.

I checked all the hoses, couplings, etc.  No leaks.  Nothing looks damaged or unusual.  That leads me back to the 4 way valve.

Any thoughts?


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## Erik

did you actually disconnect and reconnect the hoses, or just do a visual check for hydraulic fluid?
I recently read on another forum that a member was having a similar problem and the disconnect/reconnect fixed it - apparently one of their check valves got stuck and that was enough to convince it to work again.


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## OhioTC18 RIP

When mine "kicks" it means one of the hoses are not fully seated.


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## Melensdad

None of the hoses are 'quick connect' type hoses.  I'd have to pull out the wrenches and disconnect the pipes and hoses.  I did not do that.  I simply did a complete inspection of all the connections, took the plastic and rubber covers off the joystick/valve assembly, etc.  No leaks but obviously a problem.  A valve detent is pretty much in line with what I was thinking, maybe it would be a good idea to loosen a hose or two and try to see if that unsticks the valve problem?


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## rback33

You should have a load check on each spool. These are what keep the loader from dropping and the bucket from dumping when you first actuate the spools. These should be on one of the wide faces of the valve. This is the easiest and cheapest thing to check first. Some pics of the valve would help me a little too...


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## Melensdad

Well anything I try will have to wait a couple days.  I'm done for today and won't have time tomorrow.  Not sure about Tuesday.


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## fogtender

If you can post a photo of the valve control spool an what brand it is, I can tell you if and what would cause the issue.  But here are some other thoughts that would cause those problems to look at.

1.  Did someone put new hoses on the unit in the fairly recent history (old hoses fail too).

     Sometimes the hose isn't set up properly and there is a flap of rubber that acts like a check valve and stops the flow in one direction.  And old hoses can crack inside and do the same thing.

     One of the checks you can do is pull both hoses off the "Circuit" that is effected and put both into a bucket, cycle the control valve and if it flows well from both hoses in the out direction, then that isn't the problem.  Then flip both hoses over and try it again, if one has a flap of rubber acting like a check valve, then it will not flow out the hose.  But if both hoses pass the oil freely, then it may be something is wrong with the cylinder or item you are controlling.

2.  Did the unit hit something hard.

    A really hard shock to the hydraulic system can over stress the relief valve and break a control spool.  

3.  Has the filter system been had an oil change lately?

   Sometimes a piece of dirt the size of a human hair can jam the shuttle valves that the control valves operate to make the bigger flow happen to the different appliances.

   A piece of hose rubber, weld slag, metal or a host of other items can break inside the system and damage the spools too.  When you change the filter, cut the old one open and unfold the element to see if there is metal that is coming from something that is failing. 

*This may not be much help, but you can at least get a start at some of that for ideas to look at...  Checking the hoses is the first easiest thing to look at.*

*Good luck!*


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## Melensdad

Oil was changed about 30 days ago.

Yesterday I was pushing over some small trees that were damaged in the recent storms.  There was no impact or shock, as in I did not drive at speed into the trees, I slowly pushed them over.  The loader was working fine yesterday.  

Just a bit of history, the loader is a New Holland 12LA, not sure what brand components they use so I don't know the brand of the valve.  The loader is about 4 years old, ditto the hoses.  Its been stored inside since new so the hoses are not exposed to sun/UV.  All the hoses look new, no visual cracking.


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## Av8r3400

B_Skurka said:


> Just a bit of history, the loader is a New Holland 12LA, not sure what brand components they use so I don't know the brand of the valve.  The loader is about 4 years old, ditto the hoses.  Its been stored inside since new so the hoses are not exposed to sun/UV.  All the hoses look new, no visual cracking.




That new and there are no quick couplers to remove the loader?  That's odd.


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## Melensdad

There are quick couplers to connect it to the tractor, but the plumbing from the valve out to the bucket is not quick connectors.  Sorry, I was unclear in that point.

As 2 functions work, and 2 do not, when I wrote yesterday I was referring to the plumbing from the valve to the bucket, not from the tractor to the loader.


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## TOMLESCOEQUIP

Bob........If the connections from the tractor to the loader are like my quic-tach new holland, you can switch the hoses from the boom lift & the bucket tilt/curl around at the valve.......my valve stays on the tractor when the loader is removed & the 4 lines to the loader are color coded at the valve quick connections. If you switched the hoses with the boom's you could verify if it was the valve or some other problem. Being smaller, maybe your valve isn't set up this way ?


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## Melensdad

Tom, mine is set up like yours.  4 color coded QA to attach to the tractor.  I'll try swapping them around before I go after the valve itself.  Its worth a try.


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## jwstewar

Bob,

I had something like this happen with my 12LA before. It also wouldn't dump or curl. I look at everything and it looked like it was connected. Turns out one of the lines wasn't completely seated. It allowed the bucket to curl a little bit but then it built up pressure and pushed the line out just a little bit. Then the bucket wouldn't move at all. I ended up having to disconnect the lines and do the hit with a hammer trick because it wouldn't go in completely - though it looked like it was.


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## TOMLESCOEQUIP

B_Skurka said:


> Tom, mine is set up like yours.  4 color coded QA to attach to the tractor.  I'll try swapping them around before I go after the valve itself.  Its worth a try.




Bob.......There is a pin that holds the joystick lever to the valve assy........held in with a cotter pin.......in some cases the cotter pin may fail, allowing the pin to slide partially out & bind the valve linkage enough to prevent it from actuating the valve all the way. You have to remove the cover over the valve to see it. Just another thing to try..........


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## Melensdad

OK the loader is working again.

A simple case of one of the fittings being loose (a QA fitting).  The visual inspection was very deceiving.  It looked like it was locked in place.  A very light rap with a hammer proved it wasn't.  All is good in tractorland again.


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## rback33

Good to hear!  When you came back and said there were indeed quick coupler on there, then I was pretty sure what the culprit was. Those things can be a pain.


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## fogtender

I guess the "KISS" system is the best place to start!

Glad you got it back running OK!


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## jwstewar

Glad you got it working Bob. Also glad it was an easy fix, because it seems like if something happens to one of us w/ our 24D, it happens to the other one shortly. I was hoping I didn't have to buy a loader valve.


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## Melensdad

Easy fixes are the best kind.

Now I have another problem.  The starter on my Snow Trac seems to be dead (again).  I had it rebuilt about a year ago!!!!  Damn.


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## XeVfTEUtaAqJHTqq

B_Skurka said:


> Easy fixes are the best kind.
> 
> Now I have another problem. The starter on my Snow Trac seems to be dead (again). I had it rebuilt about a year ago!!!! Damn.


 
Lack of use?


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## Melensdad

Well I don't use it in the summer!  Besides I was gone for a long time too.


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## TOMLESCOEQUIP

Bob.......Years ago on my VW dune buggy we canned the original style starter that used the bellhousing for the support bushing on the end of the starter shaft, & went to the newer style (then anyway) VW starter off a 411 or 412  that had a conventional nose & bushing. Never had a problem after that. (Only applies if you're using a 12V system)

Tom


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