# Project Quadrotrac



## Steinbruchsoldat

Hi guys,
i`m building an articulated tracked vehicle from scratch. Engine is an 50hp 3cyl Subaru, it got a 5speed manual trans and a two speed gearbox. Engine, drivetrain, everything related to powering this vehicle and the hydraulics is onn the rear car. The front car will have the drivers seat, all the hydraulic controls and a big hydraulic winch.

Here`s the build sketch. Front car may change, ideas are welcome:






This is how it sits today. This is the rear car with the pivot:






This is the start of the first bogie axle assembly:






And the track:






What i`m not sure right now is how to build the track tensioner? Fixed with allthread or dynamic with something like gas struts? Would be awesome to hear some ideas and get some examples from different snowcats.

Thanks in advance.

Male to sure to ask me if you want to know something, i got hundreds of pictures from the build...

Julian


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## BigAl RIP

Looks like you got a good start on it . Is that a plastic gas tank ? I think I might change it to metal . Lots of excellent engineering work you have done .
 Welcome to our group .

 FF is a great place to post a Project story *with pictures* about you project . Then you have a permanent excellent source to show someone if you ever decide to sale it in the future .
 I have done this on my last two restorations .


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## Melensdad

Wow looks like a great project.

Please keep us informed on your progress.

Just curious, why are you making it an articulated unit?  I own a small tractor that is articulated and love it, but it seems like a complicated solution.  I presume hydraulic cylinders to control the articulation?


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## Steinbruchsoldat

BigAl said:


> Looks like you got a good start on it . Is that a plastic gas tank ? I think I might change it to metal .



The gas tank is made out of two steel jerry cans with fittings soldered in:








Melensdad said:


> Just curious, why are you making it an articulated unit?  I own a small tractor that is articulated and love it, but it seems like a complicated solution.  I presume hydraulic cylinders to control the articulation?



It may be more complicated, but i just love the way an articulated vehicle moves when going thought difficult terrain. This one will also have four independent bogie axles, so it has plenty of articulation in every direction.

Here`s how i made the pivot. The inner tube:






And the outer with the bearings already pressed in:






All the parts together:






Here is it tied into the frame:






I`m getting about 38° of steering:






And the pitch control ram:






This gives me about 48° of movement.

*Now i just need some ideas for the track tensioners*, cause i`m going to finish the first walking beam assembly for the left bogie axle tomorrow...

Julian


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## 300 H and H

Stienbuchsoldat,

Kool project! I like the hinge area with the drive shaft up the center to power your front tracks. How much PSI do you think you end up with on the snow?

As for tension devices, Snow Tracs use a nut and bolt that pushes a swing arm to tighten the tracks. Other machines I am familiar with use a grease cylinder with a zerk, such that you tighten the tracks by pumping in grease to them. A sping loaded rebouding type system seems to make sence, but no snow cat I have seen uses this system. 

Keep us posted, I would love to see this machine when finished! 

Regards, Kirk


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## NorthernRedneck

Looks like she's gonna be an awesome machine when done.  I'm interested in your plans for the center articulation/pivot point.  So I see how the machine will steer by articulating in the middle.  Will the back engine section be able to tilt to one side while the front is tilting to another?  Looks like you're using the same concept as a lamtrac but on a smaller scale.


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## Alaska Snow Cat

Both grease cylinders and threaded rod type track tensioners work good IMO. You are doing very nice work and I would suggest rounding off the ends of your tire guides. They look to be more than long enough but will ride up on the sides of your tires and chew them up if they aren't rounded of some. The vertical pivot pin looks a little under engineered too, maybe hollow? I would think it should be as beefy as the horizontal one?

Just some thoughts, thanks for the pictures.


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## Steinbruchsoldat

300 H and H said:


> How much PSI do you think you end up with on the snow?



Not really sure, i have no idea how mjuch it`ll weight when finished. It got about 2046 squareinch track surface. I guess it`ll end up at about 2000lbs, so it`d  be about 1 psi.



NorthernRedneck said:


> Will the back engine section be able to tilt to one side while the front is tilting to another?



Yes it is able to do that, to a total of about 48°. This is what the third ram is used for:













Alaska Snow Cat said:


> You are doing very nice work and I would suggest rounding off the ends of your tire guides. They look to be more than long enough but will ride up on the sides of your tires and chew them up if they aren't rounded of some.



Thanks for the help, i`ll have to look into that.



Alaska Snow Cat said:


> The vertical pivot pin looks a little under engineered too, maybe hollow? I would think it should be as beefy as the horizontal one?



This bolt is part of a go kart axle and is just for mockup purposes, to make sure the alignment is perfect. Still have to turn two bolts for this. There will also be the driveshaft running through.


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## 300 H and H

Not sure I understand the ram on the tilt or occcilation between the front and back. Couldn't you just let this "float" with no ram or linier actuator? Why would you need to "power" it?

Also with the 5 speed trans, how about the shift linkage and clutch. How are you going to tackle these from the front of the machine?

Regards, Kirk


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## Melensdad

300 H and H said:


> Not sure I understand the ram on the tilt or occcilation between the front and back. Couldn't you just let this "float" with no ram or linier actuator? Why would you need to "power" it?



Ditto.

On my Ventrac tractor the occillation is about 8-degrees (if I recall correctly) and it just 'floats' with not assist.


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## Steinbruchsoldat

300 H and H said:


> Also with the 5 speed trans, how about the shift linkage and clutch. How are you going to tackle these from the front of the machine?



Build a shifter linkage that uses hydraulic rams. This is first gear:






And reverse:






Clutch will be converted to a hydraulic setup also.



300 H and H said:


> Not sure I understand the ram on the tilt or occcilation between the front and back. Couldn't you just let this "float" with no ram or linier actuator? Why would you need to "power" it?





Melensdad said:


> Ditto.
> 
> On my Ventrac tractor the occillation is about 8-degrees (if I recall correctly) and it just 'floats' with not assist.



The hydraulic valve for this ram will be in float position while driving. But i thinks it`ll come in handy in some situations to be able to lock it or even power it in one direction or another.


Continued working on the bogie axle:





















Tacked together:






Cardboard engineering:






Cut:






Together. Still needs some triangulation:






A bit of movement, about half way to the bump stops:


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## Steinbruchsoldat

Still not sold on the front car design. Would really like to get some ideas from you guys.

What i was thinking about is something like this C5:






I think i`ll built a cab and then build an exocage around it. I want to be able to roll this thing with (almost) no damage...


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## dep6113

are you using Suzuki differentials?


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## 300 H and H

Making a cabin that doesn't end up just looking like a box takes some planning and perhaps sheet bending and forming. The guys who know how to use an english wheel and the art of hand hammering parts to shape I am envious of. I am partial to Snow Tracs, and I think the engine hood is what really sets the apart in the apearance department as it slopes in 2 directions at once. That hood is actually 3 pieces, two halves and a strip in the middle to rivet them together. SO some creative thinking as to how to get some curves in the cab would be nice, I would think..

Regards, Kirk


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## Nikson

Some heavy duty stuff... 

Will be watching ya...


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## redsqwrl

in regards to your track tension. I like the idea of moving the driving wheel up and down relative to the track. I am envisoning a tube hinged at the rear and saddleing the walking beam, 

the Hydraulic cyl pumped full a grease works very well. on bombis and thiokols.

Mike


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## Steinbruchsoldat

dep6113 said:


> are you using Suzuki differentials?



Yes i do. Also shortened the housing to accept two short half shafts.



300 H and H said:


> Making a cabin that doesn't end up just looking like a box takes some planning and perhaps sheet bending and forming. The guys who know how to use an english wheel and the art of hand hammering parts to shape I am envious of. I am partial to Snow Tracs, and I think the engine hood is what really sets the apart in the apearance department as it slopes in 2 directions at once. That hood is actually 3 pieces, two halves and a strip in the middle to rivet them together. SO some creative thinking as to how to get some curves in the cab would be nice, I would think..
> 
> Regards, Kirk



I don`t really care how it`s going to look. Most tractor/equipment/snowcat cabs are just plain square and i think it looks alright. Just thinking how to build the cage and cab as two separate units.



redsqwrl said:


> in regards to your track tension. I like the idea of moving the driving wheel up and down relative to the track. I am envisoning a tube hinged at the rear and saddleing the walking beam,
> 
> the Hydraulic cyl pumped full a grease works very well. on bombis and thiokols.
> 
> Mike



Sounds like a great idea, but there`s not enought room for it. The rear tire will be able to slide out to tighten the track.



Turned the two hubs for the right axle today:






And cut all the parts:











Wan`t happy with the cut from the hacksaw when i made the last set of bushings. So i bought a slotting saw for the mill, but had to make an arbor first:











And cut it:






I like that a lot better:






Also got the parts for the clutch engagement:


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## undy

Stein,
I followed your mini-haaglunds build on exped. forum previously.  Glad to see you on this forum now, and very happy to be able to watch your work again!!


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## Steinbruchsoldat

Thanks undy. 

Turned the outer bushing parts today:


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## Melensdad

Got to say I'm incredibly impressed.  May not be MY IDEAL of what I would build, but its an impressive build.  I'd have never thought of the hydraulic gear selection.


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## JimVT

your design  drawing looks like a single seat and maybe a rear jumpseat. what type of use do you plan to do with it?


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## Steinbruchsoldat

Melensdad said:


> I'd have never thought of the hydraulic gear selection.



Well, that took me about three full days to build it, and i have no idea if it will work. Let`s hope the best...



JimVT said:


> your design  drawing looks like a single seat and maybe a rear jumpseat. what type of use do you plan to do with it?



To be honest, i don`t really have a use for it...

I`m still in the designing phase for the front car. Single seat and jump set sounds good to me, i just don`t think i`ll have enought room for two real seats. Also won`t have a passenger all the time.

But i`m  trying to get it hacked into CAD to see ho much room is in there. Doesn`t help that i have no clue how to use the CAD...

I think i came up with a real awesome design now, but that takes quite some room thats not availible as a seating area.


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## Steinbruchsoldat

Finished machining the parts for the right walking beam assembly:
















Started drawing the front car in Sketchup yesterday, but it seemed there`s not much room in it. Had some nice weather today, so i decided to try it with a old seat and the chassis table. Well, there`s less room then i thought...






Here`s the sketch:


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## undy

So, what's the big arm on the side of the cab closest to the seated "girl"?  Looks like hydraulic arms on it.  Are you planning to raise the upper cab for entry?


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## Steinbruchsoldat

It`s a boom like on the newer JCB and Volvo skidsteers but with an additional pivot.

To be honest, i have no idea how to get in. Need to figure something out for that...


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## MNoutdoors RIP

frontlastig Dame


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## DAVENET

What do you plan on doing with this unit that you need a boom on it?? It seems like you could do away with that, spread both sides of the cab over the tracks (and drop it down a little) and you should be able to accomidate side by side seating.  Or gain a lot of room for one person.


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## Steinbruchsoldat

DAVENET said:


> What do you plan on doing with this unit that you need a boom on it?? It seems like you could do away with that, spread both sides of the cab over the tracks (and drop it down a little) and you should be able to accomidate side by side seating.  Or gain a lot of room for one person.



I don`t have any use for it, but i guess i`ll find some with the boom. It`s enought room for one person, but there won`t be enought for two, even without anything. I can`t drop it down because of the articulation of the bogie axles.If i put the seats side by side there`s not enough leg groom.


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## redsqwrl

the answer to seating is obvious.

Build another machine.

Simple.

One machine to do the work. one machine to transport the people.



MIke 
(to be fair the conversation, I am dreaming of creating a High Occupancy Vehicle (HOV) that pivots on the middle) Motor or power plant in the rear.


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## Steinbruchsoldat

I don`t have enough room to build a bigger unit. Also there`s no real need to seat more than one person, but i think i`d be nice to have a passenger while driving offroad...

Cut off the axle because there were some design flaws. One of them was too much play between both tubes:











The track tensioner:






Put it back on and put a track on to check for clearance:
















Here you can see why i need to redo the track:


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## Steinbruchsoldat

Stupid thumb is annoying me. Makes me insanely slow and i really hate that... :mad3:

Managed to fabricate some parts for the right axle today:


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## BigAl RIP

You sure do beautiful work . Very impressly


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## Steinbruchsoldat

Thanks. I really would like to progress as fast as usual, but my stupid thumb slows me really down, also my granddad passed away last week... 

But i got the plastic for the sprockets today:


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## dave_dj1

Sorry about your granddad. The project looks so cool, keep up the good work.
Dave


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## Steinbruchsoldat

Thanks Dave.

Played a bit with Sketch Up. This is the rear car model:
















Cage will be 2x2" tubing. What wall should i use? Is 0,157" enough or should i go 0,196". Does it need more triangulation? Like a x in the rear? Front will the tied in the joint.


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## NorthernRedneck

There was a larger scale machine with a track setup similar to what you're designing.  The machine was basically a skidder on four tracks with the sprocket on the outside of the track.  Wish I could find the thread.


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## redsqwrl

If your machine is rigid enough for the stress involved in your steering and loading purposes, I would forgo the X bracing.
   I am not a mechanical engineer by any measure. with that said I am very familiar with the FIA regulations of caged race cars.   The incident of tipping over can be a violet endeavor, so ask your self if the cage is for incidental contact with trees and brush or are you intentions to protect your self in a uncontrolled slide or fall.

If you have potential to fall and need some triangulation smaller elements make a large difference.   

Sorry to hear of your loss. (Grand fathers are just that Grand)


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## Steinbruchsoldat

NorthernRedneck said:


> There was a larger scale machine with a track setup similar to what you're designing.  The machine was basically a skidder on four tracks with the sprocket on the outside of the track.  Wish I could find the thread.



I think you're talking about the Katrak. This was a 2ton machine with 2 tons payload. Got a few pictures and a sales brochure if you're interested.



redsqwrl said:


> If your machine is rigid enough for the stress involved in your steering and loading purposes, I would forgo the X bracing.
> I am not a mechanical engineer by any measure. with that said I am very familiar with the FIA regulations of caged race cars.   The incident of tipping over can be a violet endeavor, so ask your self if the cage is for incidental contact with trees and brush or are you intentions to protect your self in a uncontrolled slide or fall.
> 
> If you have potential to fall and need some triangulation smaller elements make a large difference.
> 
> Sorry to hear of your loss. (Grand fathers are just that Grand)



I want this thing to be bulletproof. I want to drive it offroad and test it's limits, and theres quite a possibility of it tipping over. But i'm working on a dimple die press right now, that will help to built some sheetmetal gussets.


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## Knocker of rocks

Wow


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## Steinbruchsoldat

Was busy working on my mill. Added a vertical milling head and a new vfd. Need to finish wiring it tomorrow and then i`m back on track on the Quadrotrac:











Some time ago our old mini excavator went to the scrapyard:






Unfortunately i wasn`t allowed to safe the cab. But i started looking for one to buy and found one today. Going to inspect and hopefully bring it home tomorrow:
















This is a lot cleaner and easier than building my own. This way i have a real door, sliding windows and all that stuff. It even has a sunroof...


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## JimVT

I found this old post  of a small single one the size of yours.
http://www.forumsforums.com/3_9/showthread.php?t=21742


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## Steinbruchsoldat

Thanks for the link, looks quite interesting.

Had a look at the cab today. Well, it fit`s right on. Exactly as wide as the frame and only 4" longer. I`d call that a perfect fit. This is why i bought it. Otherwise i wouldn`t, because it`s in worse shape than it looked at the pictures. Going to see how worse it really is when i steam clean it tomorrow:


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## NorthernRedneck

I can envision something along the lines of one of these cabs working on your machine.


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## Snowtrac Nome

of course a Canadian would show us a pic of a bombardier, instead of something like a holder which may be more plentiful over in Europe


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## Snowtrac Nome




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## Steinbruchsoldat

Well, you guys are a little bit late, as you can see in post #42, i bought a cab today.


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## Snowtrac Nome

I just had to put up the holder post to poke at northern redneck a bit life's not fun if you are serious all the time.


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## Steinbruchsoldat

Sure, just thought you guys missed this post.

Anyone got an idea how to attach something like a boom to it?


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## Snowtrac Nome

I know on the other hand you couldn't go wrong with the holder cab. they have their own built in rops, they are roomy quiet, and comfortable, those little bombardier or trackless cabs are crude compared to the holder products


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## undy

Stein,

Nice score on the cab.  

Any chance you can build a mount for the arm underneath the seat area?  You have to have something to mount the cab to anyway, and I can't imagine the cab itself is strong enough to support the arm.


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## Steinbruchsoldat

Snowtrac Nome said:


> I know on the other hand you couldn't go wrong with the holder cab. they have their own built in rops, they are roomy quiet, and comfortable, those little bombardier or trackless cabs are crude compared to the holder products




They're all way to wide. My cab has rops too, but i'll built a cage anyway.


undy said:


> Stein,
> 
> Nice score on the cab.
> 
> Any chance you can build a mount for the arm underneath the seat area?  You have to have something to mount the cab to anyway, and I can't imagine the cab itself is strong enough to support the arm.



Thats not going to work. Can't go any wider than the cab because of the bogie tracks. They would interfere when articulating.


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## Steinbruchsoldat

Started by steamcleaning the cab today:











Came out better than i thought it would:











Just the sheetmetal where the door hinges were is rusted out, everything else is going to be replaced either way or is in good condition.

Then i put it on the chassis table:






It`s a perfect fit, i`m a happy camper. 

There are just a few things that i`m going to change. First is to square up the left side of the cab:











There will be a small window on the rear left body part:






And i need to shorten the door a bit to clear the drive sprocket:






Probably moving back the cab a bit on the frame to make room for some front hydraulics without sacrifiing aperture angle. Don`t see any possibility to incorporate a boom but if someone got an idea i`d like to hear it.


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## Steinbruchsoldat

So, here`s the final plan:


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## Snowtrac Nome

see that northern wedneck. he even has it painted holder orange, not bombi  yellow


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## redsqwrl

SteinB, I can't let the boom idea go.....   Mostly because I see myself wanting one some day. (my project is two 2100 thiokols mated in a similar fashion.

Could the arm be a "jib"  like the photo 
its base would be the pivot point or waist of the machine.
an automobile rack and pinion could rotate it.
Two anchor points one at the base one at the top of the cab (you mention a ROP)
not sure a auto rack can go 360 degrees but the arm could double back on itself for storage.

hell it could even nest on the rear car


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## Steinbruchsoldat

Snowtrac Nome said:


> see that northern wedneck. he even has it painted holder orange, not bombi  yellow



It actually will be painted a bright orange. 



redsqwrl said:


> SteinB, I can't let the boom idea go.....   Mostly because I see myself wanting one some day. (my project is two 2100 thiokols mated in a similar fashion.
> 
> Could the arm be a "jib"  like the photo
> its base would be the pivot point or waist of the machine.
> an automobile rack and pinion could rotate it.
> Two anchor points one at the base one at the top of the cab (you mention a ROP)
> not sure a auto rack can go 360 degrees but the arm could double back on itself for storage.
> 
> hell it could even nest on the rear car



Can`t let this idea go, too. But i don`t want to built a real crane, more likely something like a bobcat or front end loader.
Would really like to do a bobcat type boom, this doesn`t really make the vehicle bigger but adds a lot of versatility.


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## Steinbruchsoldat

Finished the mill:






Now it`s time for the Quadrotrac again. Started by cutting the mounts for the right axle:






Had to redo the main beam because i used a 5mm instead of 4mm wall tubing an the slide out wouldn`t go in:






Track tensioner:






Turned down the wheel bearings, because the center was to big:











Fit`s great:






Right axle:






Bolted on the bogie bushings:






And tacked on the axle:






Tried to get the whole thing on a picture:











Then i started with the clutch. Will convert it to a hydraulic system. But there`s not enough room on the transmission, so i have to use the oem cable:






Did some math for the leverage:






Started witht the mount:






And the lever:






Had to mill down the rear side of the slave cylinder because there was still the rough casting:


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## Steinbruchsoldat

Can`t let the boom idea go. There`s some room on the right of the cab where i could mount a strong mounting beam:






Boom would be like this:






This is the first sketch:











Would like to hear some thoughts...


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## Steinbruchsoldat

Wasted a lot of time trying to get the clutch working before i quit and decided to just use a longer cable.

Then i started building the cage:


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## Steinbruchsoldat

Continued working on the cage today:











This is why i love my coldsaw:


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## Snowtrac Nome

look at that I have the same kind of welding hood .I painted flat black over the flames I didn't want the world to think I was flaming.


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## Steinbruchsoldat

Continued working on the cage today:






Wasn`t really happy with the notching on the mill, so i brought out my old notcher that i built a few years ago. Worked a lot better:











Put in the rear cross:
















Front should be strong enough like this:






Also wanted something like a roof rack on it:






Then i started with the lights. Got 8 of those xenon lights that i`m going to use:






Had to mount the rotating light first to check for clearance:
















Unfortunately there`s not enough room, so i could only mount one :











Made a protection bar for it:











Here`s a total:






Also started cutting some toolsteel for tomorrow. Really looking forward, wanted to build this for a long time:


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## Steinbruchsoldat

It was finally time today to build something i wanted a long time ago:











I think you got it, i made a set of dimple dies. This is how it works: Drill a pilot hole:






Punch the hole:






And dimple it:






The result:






This one is a gusset for the light protection bar:






Made two sets for now:






First real work was a gusset for the engine mount:


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## Steinbruchsoldat

Fabricated some gussets today:





















Made a sparetire mount:
















And started with the driveshaft: Bought one from a Jeep because i was told it would have enought angle:






Well, that`s by far not enought:






Didn`t want to scrap it again, so i thought of something:











Had a new boot for it. Unfortunately the cv joint fell apart when i was trying to install it. Took me the better part of the afternoon to get it back together:






Then i started cutting some (high strenght) steel:






And turned the connector:


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## Steinbruchsoldat

Spent the better part of the day finishing that jeep driveshaft thing:






At this point i realized that it`s not going to work. Piece of shit Jeep driveshaft cost me 2 days of work, i was about to lit everything. 
Then i decided to do it like i originally wanted and hope it`ll hold up. So i used a cv-joint from a fwd car:































That`s the carrier bearing on the joint nut:






Test fit of the rear part :











And made the front part:
















Finished:
















Let`s hope it`ll hold up...


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## Snowtrac Nome

there is some real craftsmanship there.


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## NorthernRedneck

You are doing awesome work.  Just out of curiosity, are you planning on going into production?  Seems like too good of a design and an aweful lot of work to limit it to just one machine.


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## Steinbruchsoldat

Thanks guys.

I'm not building more than one unit. Theres just no use for it here in Europe, nobody would buy it. I also just don't have enought time or room to build for someone else. I'm already thinking of my next project...

But, i'm planning on moving to Canada or Alaska in a few years, then i'll probably looking into building custom tracked vehicles per request.

Julian


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## Steinbruchsoldat

Started welding it today. To get some airflow going i took a blower motor and hooked it up to a battery charger:






Started with the joint:






Still regaining control on my right hand, so no welding porn this time:






Made some gussets: 






And welded them in:






Had some help to remove the cage. My mounts worked out like crap, need to change that:











Removed the body frame:






Pulled the engine:






Everything apart:






Started welding:


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## Steinbruchsoldat

Made a diff cover first:











And welded a few hours:





















Nice to have a welder with 100% duty cycle at 200amps... 

Going to build a tranny cover tomorrow and probably give it a shot of paint...


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## Steinbruchsoldat

Made a transfercase and brake drum protector today:






Got everything out of my way:






Made some gussets for the axles:






Finished welding the axles and put the gussets on:











Got everthing ready for paint:






After shooting some paint:






Got some nice led strobes to go on the rear car:


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## Steinbruchsoldat

Changed my plans quite a bit today. First i wanted to finish the rear car first, but i talked to a buddy today who is a car body and sheetmetal guy. He said he has a week off work now and doesn`t know what to do. I said great i got some work for you. So he started pulling out the windows of the cab:






While i put the rear car roughly together:






Then we turned it around and rolled it out on it`s own wheels for the first time:






Need to clean that mess when the cab is inside the shop:






He started working on the door first, here`s the marking for the cut:






We both were curious what`s behind this ghetto fab panel. Looks like they just put it over the ripped apart door lock:






While he was working on the door i started getting the chassis table level and building the frame:


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## NorthernRedneck

Looking good


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## DAVENET

Steinbruchsoldat said:


> Made a diff cover first:
> 
> And welded a few hours:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice to have a welder with 100% duty cycle at 200amps...
> 
> Going to build a tranny cover tomorrow and probably give it a shot of paint...


 

Wow.   Like butter.

But I have to ask-  How much is this unit going to weigh and where are you going to run it??

David


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## JimVT

I was thinking that myself. lots of weight. 
 jim


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## Steinbruchsoldat

To be honest, those welds are about the ugliest i ever did. This is because of the ligament rupture in my right thumb. I`m about to learn again how to use my right hand and i`m not up to my usual welding right now. 

Yes, this thing will be pretty heavy, but also almost bulletproof. This is what i`m shooting for. My goal is to be able to roll it over withput any real damage. The chances that i`ll be able to run it in real deep snow, where a lightweight design would be neccesary, are really small. It`ll be mostly used in dedicated offroad places, so weight means traction. 

The frame is about the heaviest part, but we were still able to lift it with two guys. The engine is alittle bit on the heavier side. I`m guessing about 120lbs for the frame, 200lbs for the engine and transmission, 60lbs for the cage. Probably 600-900lbs on the rear car when it`s finished and less on the front one...


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Started building the frame:


























Got rid of all the axle accessories:






Shortened it:
















And put it in the frame:






Then we put up the "may tree":






After that i had a couple comrades from the fire department help me to bring the cab in the shop :






Had to build the driveshaft first, to set the axle position:











Also was able to open up the roof door:






And removed the guard from the window, so there`s no jail feeling any more:


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

The cab is to tall for the crane, so i used a ratchet strap:






Cut of the front part:






Placed it on the frame:






Changed the frame a bit for the front end loader:






Tacked the cab on:






Started rebuilding the front part:






Finished:






Then i cut off everything that i`m going to rebuild:


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Ok guys, need some help with the winch:

I`ll be getting a hydro motor, that will be used as a direct drive on the drum. This gives me about 4000lbs pulling force at 50 yd/min. Drum will be 2 3/8" diameter. Do you think that .158 wall is strong enought? Also, how much winch line should i use? I`m thinking about 55yd dynema. Anyone knows how wide the drum needs to be to accomodate that?


----------



## tracknut

pictures not working


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Well, i can't see any problems?

Nobody got an idea for the winch?


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Got the seat today:






Looks like the perfect spot for it:











But then the serpentine belt blew up again on that pos audi, need to fix that:


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Didn`t get much done lately, my grandmother passed away a couple days ago. But i could get a few minutes for the shop. What i did? Of course, i cut off another part of the cab:






Didn`t like it, so i cut off more:






Then i finally started putting on new stuff :


----------



## undy

Stein,

Sorry about your Gramma.  Didn't your Grampa die fairly recently too?  Tough loss if you were close.

Seems like you've had a run of bad luck lately, Audi included.  You are overdue for some better.

Thanks again for taking the time to share your photos.


----------



## fogtender

Stein, I'm very impressed with your building of this unit.  I either can't see it or have completely missed it.  On your articulation steering, I see where you have left and right movement, but I don't see up and down?

The Haglunds are built on the same type design, and they have both up and down and left and right and they still break that assembly which is an expensive repair, and even more so out in the sticks where it needs to be towed back in most cases.  My driving has always been straight track rigs, and they will beat to you a pulp if you go fast down a trail (more than about 10mph).  IF your design has no up and down movement between the two halves, are you worried about the stress?  If you have already designed that feature, I'm sorry I missed it.


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

undy said:


> Stein,
> 
> Sorry about your Gramma.  Didn't your Grampa die fairly recently too?  Tough loss if you were close.
> 
> Seems like you've had a run of bad luck lately, Audi included.  You are overdue for some better.
> 
> Thanks again for taking the time to share your photos.



Thanks undy. Yes, he passed away about 7 weeks ago. Now, i don`t have grandparents any more. 

At least it looks like my thumb is recovering pretty well, so there`s at least one good thing right now...



fogtender said:


> Stein, I'm very impressed with your building of this unit.  I either can't see it or have completely missed it.  On your articulation steering, I see where you have left and right movement, but I don't see up and down?
> 
> The Haglunds are built on the same type design, and they have both up and down and left and right and they still break that assembly which is an expensive repair, and even more so out in the sticks where it needs to be towed back in most cases.  My driving has always been straight track rigs, and they will beat to you a pulp if you go fast down a trail (more than about 10mph).  IF your design has no up and down movement between the two halves, are you worried about the stress?  If you have already designed that feature, I'm sorry I missed it.



There`s no up and down movement in the joint. A Hägglund may look the same, but it`s a whole different concept. The Hägglunds have no artiulation between the track assemblies and the cars. The track assemblies on my design can move 90° relative to the cars. This is what will take care of the up and down movement.
Also, i got about 300lbs of steel in the joint, it should be strong enough for everything i can even throw at it. At least i hope so... 

Started by cutting more stuff off the cab today:






This will be the new door opening:






Then i started building the rear of the cab:


























Also got a new vice today:


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Made the seat mount first today:











And finished the rear part of the cab:





















Also bough myself a plasma cutter. Not the best but better than nothing...


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

This is the winch i`ll get to use as a core:






This is the hydraulic drive i`m going to use:






"Just" need to look how the winch is geared and how i can mate them together.

Started cutting some steel today:






Then i started mocking up the front hydraulics:






Cleaned the ram up a bit:











And put it on:






Looks like this will be fun until i get it how i want it.


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Had to use steel instead of wood for mock up:






Then i remembered i have some hydraulic rod ends laying around that i could use:






Few hours later i got it where it`s supposed to be. All the way down:






All the way up:






Did the math. Looks like i need a valve to get the pressure down:






Then i started with the ram mount:











The saw also finished cutting today:


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Finished the front hydraulics mount today:











Then i started machining this piece of steel:


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Didn`t get the winch today, so i finished the most time consuming shackle mount ever:


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Got the donor winch today:






Took it apart, looked like it wasn`t sealed right:






Put it in the parts washer real quick and it looked a lot better:






Did some math, doesn`t look bad:






Still got a good idea about the planetary drive, need to look into that tomorrow...


----------



## Snowtrac Nome

my mile marker winch has a motor half that size and is rated for 10,500 pounds


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

At what line speed?

This will have about 10000lbs pulling capacity at 22ft/min line speed...

Will probably machine some parts to make it two speed, not sure if this will work right now...


----------



## Snowtrac Nome

mine is 2 speed 10,5 0n low and 6 k on high I don't know the speed on high almost to darnd fast. the nice part about hydraulic id when the control is released things stop not like an electric model that has to slow down.


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Well, if you have a motor half that size, i can't be as fast as mine. Thats the problem with hydraulic winches, if you don't have an insane amount of hydraulic power availible, its either fast and powerless or slow and powerfull. 
Mine has about 22hp, so it's at a proper pulling power and speed, but could be faster. Any hydraulic winch lower than 50hp isn't fun...


----------



## Snowtrac Nome

I don't know what to say but what ever mile marker did to make a hydraulic winch work off a power steering pump they did right the thing has never let me down my one complaint is that the old 6.2 diesel is prone to stretching belts so I was always having to tighten the belt . with a tight bellt there was nothing I couldn't do with it. like you I had my doubts until I saw one work on an up armored hmmwv. after that I had to get one


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Sure they're powerfull, but dead slow. Those powersteering pumps max out at about a third of the flow my pump has and about half the pressure...


----------



## Snowtrac Nome

I don't know how fast you want it to go but it is plenty fast for self recovery if you aren't watching what you are doing it will ball up fast on the drum. it is a little slower than my up right warn but not much . I'm actualy thinking about adding a hydraulic motor to my braden mu 2 on my truck and running it off my 8 gpm Vickers snow plow pump


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Well, i`m just trying to build the winch specific to the availible hydraulic power. Not that i would really need that, it`s just fun designing and building it.

Here`s some hydraulic specs:
Steering pump: 4,7gpm, 2900psi
Aux pump: 8,7gpm, 3250psi


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Got the window washer:






Played a bit around with the winch:











Now i just need to design some minor parts and calculate the right drum diameter then i can start building it.


----------



## redsqwrl

Everything all right over there?

Mike


----------



## undy

Mike,

From expedition portal forum on 6/9/14:  Not much to come, will be heading to austria and italy in a few days to do some skiing, climbing and hiking... 

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/121098-Quadrotrac


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Thanks for asking Mike. 

I`ve taken some time off and really enjoyed my holidays. Here are some pics if you`re interested:






















































































Now i need to finish some payed jobs, then i`m back on track here...


----------



## redsqwrl

Fair enough. that is some fantastic climbing and views.

My snow cat projects came to a screaming halt as well.

I was able to purchase some land cheap and am tearing into clearing some mess.

snow cat central is being cleared by a john deere 850 has tracks and a blade, but flotation on snow will not be so good.


----------



## JimVT

I not doing much . been building a air intake airhorn for my new engine. it wouldn't take much more to have a demo on the steering system.


----------



## Snowtrac Nome

I need one of those Mike


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Finally had some free time, so i continued on the winch. First i did some experimenting with hot glue:






Then i started boring out a part of the ring gear:






Welded some planetaries to the carrier:






This is how it`ll come together:






Took a short video to show how the gears work:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BZ9pDBLRSDE


----------



## MNoutdoors RIP

Nice work, I could not help seeing the Wisconsin plates are you in Germany ? 







Steinbruchsoldat said:


> Finally had some free time, so i continued on the winch. First i did some experimenting with hot glue:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then i started boring out a part of the ring gear:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Welded some planetaries to the carrier:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how it`ll come together:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took a short video to show how the gears work:
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BZ9pDBLRSDE


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

I`m in germany, yes. But a forum member asked if i would like to add some Wisconsin plates to my collection, so i said sure, and he sent me those. Thanks again buddy... 

First i bored out the planetary gear a bit:






Then i welded on some round stock:






Turned a seal seat down:






Bored it out:






Fits like a glove:


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Started by sorting out and finding a place for all the stuff i got at a machinist forum meet:











Drilled a relief hole for the keyway:






And cut it on my little shaper:
















Then i started with the gear cover:


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Started by turning down the blank:






Made some nice chips:






While it was cooling down i started machining the second part:






Then i flipped the blank around using some parallels:






Then i faced it and bored it, using my new boring bar:






Welded both part`s together:






And finished turning it:











Goes together very well:






The drive gear is secured on the motor shaft with a set screw:






But i can`t reach it when everything is mounted. So i milled a flat on the motor mount:






Put a hole in it and tapped it to put a bolt in it to seal it:






Now i can reach the set screw without any problems:






Started transfering the mounting holes to the motor mount:


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Got a question for you US guys:
I noziced many machinists or mechanics in the USA wearing dark blue clothes at work. They have some white patches stichted to the chest, one with the company name and one with the workers name.
I`d really like to get those whote patches to stitch on my work wear, but i have no idea what they`re called or where to get them.
I appreciate any input. 

Julian


----------



## OhioTC18 RIP

Steinbruchsoldat said:


> I`d really like to get those whote patches to stitch on my work wear, but i have no idea what they`re called or where to get them.
> I appreciate any input.
> 
> Julian


 I guess you'd call them uniform name patch. A google search comes back with a lot of hits.


----------



## JimVT

OhioTC18 said:


> I guess you'd call them uniform name patch. A google search comes back with a lot of hits.



use images at bing.com and you may see what your looking for.


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Thanks. I knew that you can have patches custom made, but i thought there would maybe exist a Company that makes exactly those, because I've seen them everywhere and they're all looking the same...


----------



## undy

Here's a link to an ebay sale where they make them up to your specifications:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/dickies-men...?pt=US_CSA_MC_Shirts&var=&hash=item4d08d97757

There are also several used shirts listed there too.


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Thanks for the link, i just sent this guy an email.

Cut out the hydraulic motor mounts:






Welded them on:






Faced it:






Cut some threads:






Mounted together:






The whole winch:


----------



## DAVENET

You've got some crazy skills my man.  +1


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Thanks. 

Started building the winch mount today:











Unfortunately i screwed up and can`t mount it like planned. This would be the next idea, of course i`d reinfore it. I`m just not sure if i can mount it this way, or have the bolts to be in a plane with the wire rope?


----------



## Snowtrac Nome

in the army we called them name tapes


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

I got a lot of name tapes from my army and pmc time, but they look just like name tapes and not the patches i`m looking for. But i found a seller and ordered some, i already have the Redneck Engineering one laying in front of me.

Decided to go for the winch mount:






Looked to wimpy to me. Now i like it better:






Tacked on::


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Started mounting the pedals today:


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Started with the brake pedal today. I`m using an parking brake lever for it. It`ll have a small cable attach that allows me to disengage the lock. So i can use it like a regular brake pedal, but it i disengage the cable the lock will be engaged and there`s no need for a parking brake lever:






Mounted:






Mounts for the clutch pedal:






All three tacked on:






Btw., i just got the patches i had custom made. Thanks for your help guys:


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Burned out some gussets today:






Drilled some holes:






Punched them bigger:






Dimpled it and tacked the gussets on:






Mocked it up:






Btw, started restoring our old firefighting pump as a little side project:


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Started building the parking brake lock today:











Cut a window in the lever and tacked the line lock on:






Reinforced it:






Finished:






Then i started with the hand throttle:











Finished:






Then i noticed that i screwed up big time, the brake pedal was mounted the wrong way. It would lock when i want to brake, not when the brake is engaged. So i cut it off and flipped it around:






Made some gussets:






And finished welding it:


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

First i bought some steel today:






Then i finished the pedals:






Started building the battery tray:
















Finished:











Got some questions for you guys:

Looks like i need a fairlead right in front of the winch, if not the line will hit that round stock on the winch when the drum is full. How did you guys do that when the winch was not on the front of the car?

Anyone got an idea for the wiper? I want to reuse the justy wiper motor, but i think i need something like a parallel wiper to clean all of that big windshield?


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Noticed that i need to build the front hydraulics first so the winch line does not interfer with it. I reuse some Hägglund parts, but i had to cut some pieces of:






While the saw was cutting i cut the steel for the "legs?":











Then i milled the mounts flat and put some chamfer on:






Finished:






First leg mounted:






Made the second:






Both tacked on:






Measured everything and tacked on the connection between both legs:






Will also be able to mount two of those plates to act as a anchor for the winch:






Here it is all the way up:


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Welded up the rear ram port and drilled a new one:






Tacked the shortened rear mount back on:






Tacked the front eye on:






Started fabricating the ram mounts:






Drilled them:






Bored them out:






Mocked up the lower mount:






Tacked it on:






Upper mount tacked on too, ram all the way down:






And all the way up:











Cut off the winch mount and made some changes:






Tacked back on, way better than before. Don`t know why i didn`t do that the first time:






Started building the "thing that guides the line". Don`t know what to call that in english, it`s called something like "line trumpet" in german. First i bored out a chunk of cast iron:






Roughed out:






Finished turning:






Polished:






Flipped it around, faced it and chamfered it:






Here`s how it`ll be mounted, lines up perfect with the winch:
















Also got the heater unit:






Could probably be mounted here:






Any suggestions on where to mount it? Mount it up high so it doesn`t get wet/flooded? Is there a need for it to blow directly on the windshield in order to defog it? Is there a need for a fresh air connection to the fan? Cab won`t be sealed anyway...


----------



## Manlig

Very nice build! Love to follow this thread and to see your skills in the workshop. From what car did You get the defroster from?


----------



## undy

Stein,
I think what you turned would be called a "fairlead" on this side of the pond, and they're often built with rollers, as seen here for example.


Steinbruchsoldat said:


> Any suggestions on where to mount it? Mount it up high so it doesn`t get wet/flooded? Is there a need for it to blow directly on the windshield in order to defog it? Is there a need for a fresh air connection to the fan? Cab won`t be sealed anyway...


I'd mount it wherever is most convenient.  With a small cab, it'll probably be plenty warm in there.  I'd think it would be best to have it blowing directly on the glass to defog it.  Use insulated duct hose, such as those in aircraft, to direct it from the heater unit to the glass.  If you have a fresh air inlet to the heater, it may be less humid air than that within the cab.  My snowcat has two heaters, one with fresh air inlet.  Perhaps have a valve to select inside or outside, like many cars now do.


----------



## Snowtrac Nome

this guy is a real artist he is doing some outstanding work as for the heater high mount isn't a bad idea, except for air locking for simplicity I would mount it at engine level as undy stated a defroster system is a must along with a fresh air supply some place it won't pick up snow dust. lastly the first thing to chill will be your toes so I would also recommend a floor air hose too.


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Thanks for your help guys. I`ll try to mount it that it`ll blow directly on the windshield. I have a feeling that there wont be enough room for ducting.

Found out that i need a second fairlead in order to keep the line away from my feet.

Drilled a chunk of cast iron:






Bored it out:






Turned the od down, faced it and put a radius on the inside:






Flipped it around and finished the second side:






Also cut a flange to mount it:






This is how it`ll go together:


----------



## redsqwrl

Love the bell end fittings you created for the winch.
during my rock / mountain climbing days I prepared a IH scout II for rock crawling.....
I had a winch mounted mid ship and ran the cable thru a piece of schedule 40 conduit, the conduit had offsets and needed bracing to avoid trying to bend itself straight on heavy pulls. pulleys and guides would work as well. I was always afraid of the wire rope letting go and hurting me or the brake and fuel lines....

Mike


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Thanks. There`s one problem using conduit, when dirt/mud get`s pulled in it really gets hard and seizes the line...

Started machining the rear fairlead mounting flange:






Here`s a trick to get hole pattern layed out real easy. Just mark the diameter using a sharp hss tool. The find something to stuff between one jaw and a part of the lathe. Scribe it using the cross slide then turn the chuck one jaw further and repeat it:






Drilled it and transfered the holes using center punches:






Finished:






Then i made the front fairlead mount:





















Mocked up. Just need to move the pedal assembly a tad left:











Need to weld in the front panel first tomorrow, but i`m not real sure on how to lay out the hole for the line tube...


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Started by cutting of the pedals and front sheetmetal:






Layed the new panel out:






Cut it out:






Tacked it in:






Layed out and cu the hole. Cut it bigger on purpose so the line guide won`t take my windshield out when it`s moving a bit under hard pulls:






Tacked it on:






Remounted the pedals:






Tacked on the rear fairlead:






And started gusseting it:











Here`s the line routing:


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Gusseted the line guide today:






Then i made the first floor panel:
















There`s just enough room:






Then i started with the heater:






Made some mounts:






Then i had some help to make sure there`s no contact with the seat when it go`s up and down:






There`s just enough room, so i tacked on:






Then i glued some plastic to it:






Mounted the windshield defogger:






Then i started mounting the seatbelt:











Didn`t have M11 nuts, so i turned the bolt down and cut some M10:





















Finished:






The the glue was dried and i could glue on the outlets:






Made a mount for the windshield washer:






Finished:






Then i finished the heater:











Here`s a total shot:






Will start the wipers next, this is going to be complicated...


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Started building the wiper today:






First i cut the base plate:






Made some mounts for the bushings :






Tacked them on. Was pretty hard because they are at odd angles in all planes:






Put the wipers on:






Made those levers the same lenght:






And connected them:






Tacked on the frame:






Mocked it up. Flat bar represents the windshield:






Turned some bushings:






Made the first endplate:






All parts together:






Finished:






Tacked them on:






Milled the connection rod:






Tacked it on:






Turned the wiper mount:






Everything together:






Here you can see that the wiper always stays vertical which results in a much bigger wiped area:






Then i started with the motor. Unfortunately i had to put the whole wiring loom together to find the rest position of the motor:


----------



## DAVENET

Wow.  While it would take away from you using your mad skills to build EVERYTHING, if you end up having problems with sweep area or reliability on your wipers, consider one side from a transit coach with the dual arms.  One drive arm to the motor and the other to the idler plate.  And everything would be readily available for quick easy replacement.


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Thanks for the idea, but it looks like it works really well.

Started by making a mounting plate for the wiper motor today:






Shortened the lever according to the desired stroke:






Everything together and aligned:






Mocked up:






View from the inside:






Here`s a short clip:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kqtsXamPPlI

Then i started building the wiper blade iteslf. First i started slotting a stainless tube:


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Continued on the wiper blade by slotting the stainless tube:






All parts:






Cut a slot on the opposite side:






Straithened the brake line:






Drilled some holes:






Put it in:






Almost finished:






Side view:






Ok, who has an idea what this is good for?


----------



## Manlig

Are you going to run warm water thru so you getting heated Wipers?


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Damn that was fast. There will be coolant flowing thru. The copper brake line should radiate the heat pretty good, and the stainless tube, beeing a real poor heat conductor itself focuses the heat right on the wiper blade.


----------



## undy

You are one crafty dude.  Nice plan.


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Thanks, let`s see if it works...

Started with the steering valve today:






Made a mount for it:






Tacked it on:






Bent the lever:






Perfect fit:






Now i just need to build something like a quick removal device for the lever, otherwise it`s getting a bit complicated to get in and out. Don`t have any ideas right now, what do you guys think?


----------



## OhioTC18 RIP

Steinbruchsoldat said:


> Now i just need to build something like a quick removal device for the lever, otherwise it`s getting a bit complicated to get in and out. Don`t have any ideas right now, what do you guys think?


You don't need to be able to remove it, just articulate it. A joint to let it swivel to one side or the other. Have a sleeve or collar on the rod that would slide over the joint and lock it straight when using it.


----------



## Manlig

OhioTC18 said:


> You don't need to be able to remove it, just articulate it. A joint to let it swivel to one side or the other. Have a sleeve or collar on the rod that would slide over the joint and lock it straight when using it.



I was thinking the same thing.


----------



## Manlig

Or you could use like a air hose Quick connector or something so that you could remove it easy.

Why not place it at the side of the chair so that you get the lever in ha vertical position i belive that will give you a better feeling with the steering?


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

OhioTC18 said:


> You don't need to be able to remove it, just articulate it. A joint to let it swivel to one side or the other. Have a sleeve or collar on the rod that would slide over the joint and lock it straight when using it.



Thanks, that`s what i did:


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Decided to go with the oem wiring instead of building a custom one. I`ll also use the oem dash. But i can`t use the speedo, and don`t want a dead gauge in the dash. So i pulled it apart:






Cut it out:






And placed a volt gauge:






Then i started messing with the wiring loom. Plan is to reduce the wires between both cars to a minimum:






Pulled it apart:






Look better now:






Anyone know what those things are? Got two of them, they are connected to the wipers, washer pumps, and stuff.


----------



## undy

Isn't that all from a Subaru?  If I'm reading it right, it says 1.8A??

On my '97 Impreza, they used some relays similar to that, at least for the fog light setup.  It was round, but just plugged into the end of a wire harness branch.  

How many wires per device?  If it's only 2, then I'd guess a fuse.


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Yes, it`s Subaru. The drawing on it looks like a diode...

It`s 4 wires per device.


----------



## Manlig

I belive that a relay.


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Don`t thin it`s a relay. Those things were wrapped deep in the harness, you won`t even find them if don`t cut all apart. 
Also there`s no relay in the wiring diagramm.


----------



## Manlig

It looks lika a micro relay.but i can be wrong. http://www.thetoolboxshop.com/0-727...cro-make-and-break-relay-with-diode-2149.html


----------



## Snowtrac Nome

it's a diode protected relay the diode is in there for noise suppression and to control spikes when powered up and down.


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Found out that it`s a diode. It sits between the wiper and wash motors so that when the wash switch is closed the wiper motor also runs but not vice versa.

Continued on the wiring harness today:






Had some help:






Finished. Where the knife lays is the cut between the front and rear car. There are not even 20 wires left to be lenghtened. Upper left corner of the picture is the rear lighting loom which is long enough, lower left corner is the engine wiring, middle right is the dash and wiper and stuff and lower right corner is the front wiring harness:






Then i tacked on the wiper unit:






Mounted the dash:






Made a mount for the fuse boxes:






And mounted them:






Doesn`t seem much but is a day worth of work...


----------



## OhioTC18 RIP

Steinbruchsoldat said:


> Had some help:


He/She is checking out the rat's nest trying to find the rat.


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

I thought she rather tried to build a bigger rat`s nest... 

Mounted the combination switch today:






Then i started building the bogie axle bushings:






Drilled them:






Sawed them:






One cut, three missing...






Here`s a vid where i show all the funkctions yet:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AuxU5Y7Iu_M

I`m also thinking about the shifter linkage all the time. I got those two rams in the rear car that engage the shifter rod. Now i need to mount the shifter in the front car and the two exact same rams on it. But i noticed there`s absolutely no room for the  shifter and those two rams. Thought about building two levers, one for each ram. So i`d have to engage both levers independantly if i want to shift from one shift gate to another.
But that just doesn`t sound right, even if i think that i don`t have to shift very often, similar to the Motodog.

If someone has a better idea at all i`d be happy to cut everything off and start over.


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Bought some steel today:






Then i continued working on the axle bushings:


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Looks like i finally found a solution for the shifter. After some (read: a lot) research i found out that the Daihatsu Terios has way longer shifter cables than normal cars do. So i went ahead and bought a shifter with cables:






When mounted here there is about 6-8" cable lenght left for articulation, which is perfect:






Also finished another boogie axle bushing mount:


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

The postman shows up every day, and the pile of "parts i need to find some room for" grows steady:






Then i continued working on the boogie axle bushings:











I eventually finished it, also tested the hydraulic oil temp gauge:


----------



## undy

Steinbruchsoldat said:


> The postman shows up every day



I hear he always rings twice...  

Is that a radio??  (I don't speak German, so maybe you mentioned it in the video.)


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Yes, its a radio. Figured it's not bad to have one. Still missing a fire extinguisher, some speakers, ...


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Got the two pressure gauges today:






Wanted them to be illuminated, so i tried something:






Perfect:


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Turned the boogie axle bushings today:











Turning plastic creates a big mess:






Finished. One missing because i screwed up. Well, it`s just $20 worth of plastics and cleaning up that mess again, right?






Parts pile is still growing:






Also got another shifter assembly to use for the transfer case:






This is going to be tight. No problem, there are only 6 hydraulic valves missing...






Do you guys think i can get the throttle working with a long cable? It`d articulate while steering, ect. I thought about building a simple drive by wire system...


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Finished the first three bushings today:






Mounted both inners, so i could start with the floor:





















Didn`t like it, so i started over. But i have to make the side panels first. Before i had to weld everything up that i can`t reach with the panel in place:






Put the first part in:






Didn`t have a big enough panel, so i had to put a small strip in:


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Started by making the left side panel today:











Then i made the left floor panel:





















And the right one:





















Made a cover for the winch line:





















Mounted the first shifter:






And the second one:


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Got the hydraulic valves today:






Changed the lever direction:






Cut a mount:






Center punched the mounting holes  :






Bolted it together:






Mocked it up:






One side tacked on:






Did some cardboard engineering:






Tacked it on:






Drivers view:


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Ok, so i decided that i`d like to use hydraulic tubes instead of hoses where it`s possible. So i need to build a tubing bender. But to built a tubing bender i need to machine some dies. To do this i need to make a radius turning attachment.
So i`m basically building a tool to build a tool to build a tool...
















Lost the finished picture somehow.

Cut a piece of toolsteel:






And turned the first die:


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Continued turning the dies today:




































Both finished:






Don`t have hydraulic tubing yet, but copper fit`s:






Bored out some flat bar for the lever:






Welded some round stock in the bigger die and turned it down:






Turned a bushing for it:






Made a big washer:






Everything together:






Cut some threads, and turned a bushing for the smaller die:






Put together:


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Drilled and bored out the retaining block:






Milled it down:






Cut an angle:






Welded together:






Turned down the lever:






And knurled it:






Welded it on:






Finished:











Didn`t have longer, or the right tubing, but that looks great:


----------



## J5 Bombardier

Just went through the whole thread on your project , glad I'm not on dialup anymore . Very impressive designing and machine work, keep up the good work !
                     J5 Bombardier


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Did some cardboard engineering today:






Burned it out:






Tapped it and drilled some holes:






Made mounting brackets:






And tacked it on:


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Mounted some of the last parts:


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Got about $700 worth of hydraulic tubing:






The bender works great:


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Going to start bending some tube tomorrow. Just need to find out how to do this, so the finished tubes actually fit...


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Put the valves back in:






And made a new front panel:


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Started building the rear body panel today:











Drilled it:






Needed some washer to reinforce it, so i made some:
















Everything together:






Tacked on:






Then i started bending the easiest tube:






Finished:






Fit`s great:






And the second one:


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Tried to figure out how to run the lines using some welding wire:






Then i started bending one of the more complicated lines:






And of course i messed it up, but at least i could save part of it for another :


----------



## tommu56

neat thread!

One trick in bending conduit and hydraulic tube start with the longest tubes so if you have a misbend you can salvage it for a shorter run.

Another is use a metal coat hanger to bend a model of the tube to visualize better what has to be done.

Calculate the bend deduction for your jig  and from end of tube to back of bend and use it  for stubs, google conduit bending videos for hints.

tom


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Thanks for the tipps Tom, they helped me a lot. Never knew what to look for on Youtube.

Started with the second line to the front hydraulics:






Got the fitting mounted:






Installed:






Then i made the first line to the left auxillary circuit:


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Got some parts today:






Then i started bending the next tube. This one was a bit longer and my shop is just to small. So i build a solution for it:





















Works great:






One more finished:






Of course it started raining then...


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Got three more tubes bend up today:































This is by far the most challenging and time consuming work i`ve ever done in my shop. Not really happy with most of the tubes, but the tubing is way to expensive to do them again...


----------



## Galvatron

Clearly you have very good engineering skills and the tools to work with...full respect.


----------



## undy

Stein,

I think you're way too critical of your own work.  For a one-off home-made machine, I think it's pretty darn nice.  Most of us would be proud to be able to do what you do.

Thanks for continuing to provide updates and photos.


----------



## jask

I agree! you need to step back and have a beer!!. I can not decide if I like this thread more for the fact that you are all over a project that would scare off a lot of guys, or because you have some serious fabricating skills, or the kick ass shop full of German tool porn, or the quality of the components you are using... you are keeping an impressive schedule and if something is not up to your standards go work on an easy problem on the other end of the machine or clean up the shop a bit while you think it through... sometimes the answer is just at the edge of your peripheral vision if you focus on something else.
I have seen hydraulic shops do some work that was UGLY but we knew it would be bomb proof. 
What is your Day job? tool and die?  millwright?


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Thanks a lot guys. 



jask said:


> What is your Day job? tool and die?  millwright?



Will be finishing my car mechanic apprenticeship in a few months, then i`ll work as a car mechanic. Currently debating if i should start another apprenticeship as a tool and die maker or just work and gather some money.
In a few years i`m going to move to Canada, or probably Alaska, but that`d be a lot harder for me cause i don`t know anyone there, which i do in Canada. Well, time will tell...


----------



## Alaska Snow Cat

If you decide to move to Alaska let me know. I live about a 100 mile from the nearest big town but on the main highway between the two biggest cities. Mt. Mckinley(Denali) is in my back yard and the whole area is beautiful, at least to me.

One of the locals is from Germany and runs a machine shop among other things. He is partners with another lady who runs a pizza pub. They are both very friendly and might give you some good information on what to expect if you moved here.

Anyway keep up the good work, it will be interesting to see what you end up creating here.

    Randy


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Thanks for the offer, i`ll keep that in mind for sure. 

Sounds like the perfect place to live to me.


----------



## redsqwrl

As long as we are giving career advice.....

You need to get a college level degree in Career and technical Education, and then come to work in Wisconsin at any one of the technical colleges to share your abilities. Teaching is rewarding most days.

Save AK for the midlife crisis. Create a portfolio of your designs and solutions.

Then market yourself to any of the truck manufactures.
Google Oshkosh and Pierce. They could use your skill set.

Mike


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Thanks for the advice. Not sure if this is what i like to do, but i already graduated the German equivalent to college degree.

I'd more like to work in a machine shop or offroad fab shop, something similar to what i'm doing here building the Quadrotrac and my other machines and vehicles...

Well, not sure yet, but i'll spend another few months in Canada next summer, probably paying Alaska a visit too. Just need to find some guys where i could stay for a while or travel with...


----------



## Snowtrac Nome

off road shops don't seem to pay real well here in the state .I would bet there would be a nich market in building hunting rigs I do know several that seem to have come and gone my opinion hd diesel is the way to go equipment owners gladly pay to get their stuff fixed in a timely manner.


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Thanks for the advice.

So i didn`t feel like bending tube today, so i worked on some little things:






First the hourmeter:






And the three switches. Front working lights, rear working lights and amber flashers :






And some pics of the whole unit:


----------



## JimVT

you may need a degree to run that thing.  looks kind of confusing.
 jim


----------



## redsqwrl

http://www.douglasmotorsports.com/

Plan to Come to WI next summer. I will get you an opportunity to tour the shop and meet his staff.

Scott Pays pretty good. the work is demanding during the season.

Great people, I crewed for them for 5 years. make sure you can tig weld to the expert level. There was a BMW apprentice Who interned on the team a few years back.

The schedule for next year should be on the TORC website. find the dates with the biggest gap between events for a visit. they dont like to be giving tours right before events.


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Thanks a lot. I hope i can make this happen. 

Bent up another tube today:


----------



## redsqwrl

what became of your efforts?

Hope all is good.

Mike


----------



## Snowtrac Nome

if I had to guess he might be a seasonal worker in which case he may have to put down tools to go feed the family. he certainly have spared no expense on his creation


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Hi guys,
thanks for asking, everything is good. I`m just super busy because i got a scholarship as a service engineer, that started a few weeks ago.

Also winter season is about to start, so i`m also busy building skis and traveling to austria to do some skiing,


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Hope to be back on this the next week or two. I`m really busy at school right now. But i also got my shop all cleaned up and some really nice new tools and machines. 

Added a 16" disk sander to my 10hp beltsander:






Got a new (1908) drill press and restored it:






And got a new drill and reamer collection going. Almost complete from 0,5"-2":











Also got a lot more new tools and stuff, that`s way too much to show. You`ll probably notice them on the upcoming pics...


----------



## Snowtrac Nome

I have a Bridgeport end mill I use for a drill press I should start buying some heads for it


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

What kind of heads you're thinking of? Only one i could think about is a tapping head, but i tap on my mill all day long without one.

Used my mill as a drill press too, but a dedicated drill press is way better. No way my mill, or a Bridgeport that's is way heavier would take a 2" drill.


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Look`l like i`m back working on this.

Made a relocation bracket for the front shifter:





















And two gussets for the mounts:


----------



## redsqwrl

welcome back.

get to work.

Mike


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Nothing interesting to show, just bending up some hydraulic tubing:


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

And some more tubing:


----------



## Snowtrac Nome

Steinbruchsoldat said:


> What kind of heads you're thinking of? Only one i could think about is a tapping head, but i tap on my mill all day long without one.
> 
> Used my mill as a drill press too, but a dedicated drill press is way better. No way my mill, or a Bridgeport that's is way heavier would take a 2" drill.



mine came off a battle ship it works good for gun work I was thinking of getting some fly cutters so I could re surface cylinder heads and some other projects. right now I have a limited supply of boring bits that are pretty worn out that came with it. I never thought about using it to tap threads but it is a good idea . just about any thing I do on a late=he I could also do with the mill


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

You can build some flycutters yourself if you got a lathe. You could even do it in the mill alone...

Got the winch plumbed today:


----------



## Snowtrac Nome

there is a lot I can do time is not always on my side


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Haha, i know that problem...

Was a bit slow because i bought a new shaper that needed some attention:






Bought a turret head for my lathe yesterday and could already use it today turning some coolant bulkhead fittings :






Turned one side:






Drilled and put some threads on it:






First side finished:


----------



## redsqwrl

nice work.
I feel lazy watching your adventures


----------



## 3512b

Nice Shaper! what make?
 Old machinist told me "you can make anything on a shaper except money "
 I going to try carbide inserts on mine someday I was told you can get a real good finish with them.

 Great work on your tractor you inspire me!


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Its a german make, called Howeg, later Gastl.

Don't use carbide, learn how to grind highspeed real good and it will give you a mirror finish even in some hot rolled material. Shear tool is the  way to go for finishing cuts.

Btw, If everything works out i'll move to a huge shop and will have a huge 35" shaper, vertical lathe, 200ton press, 20hp mill...


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Machined the second side of the fitting today:
















Also made some nuts for them:
















And mounted them:


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

There was no way i could motivate myself to bend up some more hydraulic tubing today, so i started another really simple part that will be completely overbuild and way to time consuming. But hey, it`s fun...

Cut a chunk of stainless. Notice the appropriate device to increase cutting pressure:






Milled the saw cut down:






And started machining it on the shaper:


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Started cutting some serrations today:
















Made a mount for it:






Tacked in place:


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Decided to start over with the wiring. This is how it looked:






And how it`s looking now:






Decided to throw out everything except of the engine wiring. Going to make a custom harness for the front car.:






Also going to build a really nice dash for it...


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Here`s the finished engine wiring. I`m at less than 10 wires between the front and rear car now:






This is going in the trash:






Anyone got a good idea on how to mount the combination switch so it`s good to reach and doesn`t look out of place?


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Made some front mounts for the cage today:


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Made the two front cage uprights today:











Little fixture:











Both tacked on:






This will go up front:


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Got some LED strobes that will go up front:






Made the first gusset for the cage:






And a turn signal mount:


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Made the second gusset and turn signal mount:






Also fabricated the rear cage mounts:


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Started with the first side of the cage:


----------



## redsqwrl

careful, looks to be getting taller than the door.
;-)
Just kidding.

Mike


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

It already is higher than the door. But i can remove the axles and roll it out.. 

Got the other side mocked up today:


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Measured the cross bars for the cage using my small calipers:






Made the two rear ones:






And the front one:






Mounted the first three lights:






Mounted the strobes to the other 4 lights:






And mocked it up. Strobes are working:






Made a mount for the flashing light:






And tacked it on:






Here are some total shots. Looks put of proportion on those pics but i`d call it almost perfect looking at it in person:


----------



## redsqwrl

no doubt, you will be seen.

Mike


----------



## NorthernRedneck

Wow. You're going to need a damned good charging system (alternator and battery) to power those lights.


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

They`re all xenon or led lights so they don`t draw that much amps. But i got a 88amps battery and a 120amps alternator, they should power them without any problems.

Started with those three guys today:






Mounted them and cut some threads for the rear facing strobes :






Tacked it on:






Now there are almost all lights mounted:






Then i removed the old dash completely. Will build a new one:






Made a gas strut to fit the roof window:
















Parts for the new dash:


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Tested the new led turn signal relays:






Then i started building the new dash:


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Slowly gathering all the parts for the new wiring:






Will finish my last exam on saturday then i`ll have some time to work on this thing again.


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Today was an awesome day. First i passed the last exam, so i`m a service engineer now. Then i got a call that everything should work out with my new shop.

But i got something done too. First i mounted the side facing working lights:






Also the rear strobes:






The horn:






And the compressor for it:






Then i turned some M19x1 inside threads:






So i can screw in this push button switch:






Turned some grooves:






Flipped it around and did the same thing again, just put different grooves in:






Cut it off and drilled a hole for the wires:






First one is the steering lever with horn switch:






Second one the wiper lever with washer switch:


----------



## sleddogracer

counting labour and shop time, that's going to be the $2million machine when it's done - nice job though


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Probably even more... 

Man, i already have $15000 in it, not counting any labour or time...

Finished the safety lock for the steering lever:






Then i cut the old instrument cluster:






Thats what i`m going to use:






Soldered some wiring in:






Tested it:






Then i started cutting the new dash:


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Made the new dash today:


----------



## Manlig

Very nice work!


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Mounted two 12V outlets and the wiper switch today:






Couldn`f find a dome light that i`d like, so i thought i`ll build my own. Squared up a scrap piece of aluminium:






Milled some features in it:






Drilled some holes and put a few threads in:






Finished except of the clear cover:


----------



## 3512b

you have some great ideas!
 Like the use of the shaper! I got to start using mine more, your inspiring me!


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Yeah, sometimes (read: always) it's slower than milling but it's way more fun.

If the new shop works out i'll have a 38" shaper that weights 10000lbs. This thing can take some serious cuts.


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Mounted the mirrors today:


----------



## sleddogracer

of course you made the mirrors too? - lol


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Removed the seat today:






Then i brought out my hydraulic hole punch:






And put in some grommets for the shifter cables :






Then i made the air intake for the heater:
















Need to relocate the hot/cold lever so i started building a linkage:


----------



## 3512b

any word on the new shop?


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Unfortunately not. 

This is really bothering me cause i have to continue building way different if i get the new shop.

If then i need to build the axles first. But if i build them now and cant move then they'll be in the way all the time.


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Milled down the backside of the mount:






Used my new scribe for the first time, it`s really awesome:






Milled a rectangle in:






Tacked it in:






And made a linkage for it:






Also bend up another tube...


----------



## JimVT

heated mirrors are nice. drink holders and pinups and al would have loved it.


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

I already have heated wipers, so i said fuck it and also bought heated mirrors.

There will be a cup holder right in the middle of the dash. But i want to build it really special cause it`ll be on display all the time. Needing some ideas right now...


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Connected both return lines together today:






This piece of tubing is worth about $50...


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Started by cutting out and replacing some tubing that i screwed up bending the first time. Before:






And after:






Then i bent up the second return line. :











Got parts for all the cables:






Had to modify the hand throttle a bit:






Made a mount for it:






Finished:






Only thing missing now was the parking brake, so i made a lever for it:































Brake pedal with parking brake:






All levers and stuff together:


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

First i mounted the throttle cable today:





















Then the brake:


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Next was the clutch. Didn`t like how i build it the first time:






5mins later:






Reamed the pedal:






Turned some brass bushings:






A shaft for it:






And a mount:






Welded it:






How it sits now:


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Finished the clutch:









































Btw., got everything signed for the new shop. Hope to start moving soon...


----------



## Cidertom

Wonderful work, but I have to ask: With all the steel isn't it going to weigh about like an abrams tank?


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Yes it`s going to be heavy, but it won`t see deep powder snow, so i don`t think this will be a problem.


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Since i need to move it soon, i started building the front axles:


----------



## redsqwrl

I need to see this someday.

Just a reminder that the Torc off road season has started up.

this coming weekend is Crandon WI USA

mike


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Well, you`re always welcome if you want to visit overseas... 

Just working on axle parts:


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Continued working on the axles:














































Put in some short welds so it won`t fall apart while moving it to the new shop:






Also removed the chassis table:


----------



## Manlig

Looking good! Looking forward to see your new workshop.


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Will hopefully be able to get some better pics next week, cause i don`t have the key for it yet, but here`s a teaser:


----------



## undy

Looks a might cluttered, but so is your current space.  But I do see some mighty interesting machines in there...


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Tacked the first parts together:






Mounted the wheel bearings and wheels:






Aligned it:






Tacked together:


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Ok, let me introduce my new shop. Always was out of room and wanted something bigger.
Going to take most of my machinery with me, of course not my three small saws when there are four bigger/better ones.

Here`s the main room and some impressions:































We`ll free up this space to get the Quadrotrac and my machinery in:






Also bought a really nice bandsaw:











And this huge 29" shaper:






Can`t wait to start working on it.


----------



## Cidertom

Very nice shop.


----------



## redsqwrl

Good for you. that is a lot of space and many extra bits laying about. I would loose my focus pretty quickly in that space.

I have my clutter scattered about three old buildings, I get lost in thought walking from one to the other. I Then forget why I went to the other building in the first place.

Usually I wind up cutting the lawn or fixing something else, only to return to the original project area to find a light on and the radio playing. (then remmebering that I needed such and such and my day starts all over)

Good luck with your new space.

Mike


----------



## sleddogracer

been there, done that Mike, many times -


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Sounds familiar...

Turned the missing axle bushing today cause the lathe already was a hell of a mess:


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Finished the second axle today:






Here you can see the movement of the axle:


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Getting ready to move soon, so i pulled the rear car out:


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Lowered the front car down on two skates:






Barely clears the garage door:






Made it:






Put the axles back on:






Close fit:






Overtaking the rear car:






Perfect fit:






Looks like everything fits:


----------



## redsqwrl

really looks great to see it in the light of day, coupled together.

has some 2000 series tucker like qualities....

Keep up the great work.


----------



## 300 H and H

I can't wait to see this machined with tracks on it.  Of course I feel every thing that has tracks is beautiful.  I just can't help it...

And the new shop is very nice. Is that a brake press in one shot? Looks like it is heavy duty...

Regards, Kirk


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Unfortunately it`s going to take a while until we can see it with tracks...

No, there`s no bress brake in there. There`s a 100ton c-frame press, a sheetmetal roller that takes 15mm at 1,25m with and a tubing roller that takes up to 100x60mm solid stock and my small 1m brake.


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Just to let you know that i`m not lazy, i`ve been really busy with my new shop. To start from the beginning:

Bought a new bandsaw:






A new TIG welder:






Moved a lot of stuff around, in this picture the automated saw to make some room:






Then i brought in the new shaper:






Finally looked like something:






Then i bought a new mill and brought it home:






It`s really nice to have a huge crane that can handle a 5000lbs machine without any effort:






Now it`s filling up:






Then i started moving my stuff from the old shop in:





















Filled the drawers:


























Hired the crane again to bring the mill and lathe out:











Hauled the Quadrotrac to the new shop:











Got the mill all set up:






Resurfaced the new cast surface plate:


----------



## Steinbruchsoldat

Then i started building a post mounted jib crane, that`s 4x4" solid stock in that saw:
























































And this is where i`m at today:


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## 3512b

Was just wondering where you have been!
Good workout he shop
I respect your skills jealous of your shop and think some of the art work you have on the shop walls are great!
Keep up the good work!


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## DAVENET

Hummmm, other than the German connection, Why did this immediately make me think of you?  

https://www.facebook.com/faxxentv/videos/973105872726173/?fref=nf


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## undy

Oh Sweet Jesus!  I'm laughing my ass off!  Really.  I have no ass left, thanks to that video.

I'll be passing that one along...


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## Steinbruchsoldat

Haha, thats awesome.

Btw. I was in Norway, and now i'm in Japan for some skiing, so no time for the Quadrotrac right now...


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