# Need Help cutting 8"x8"



## 79bombi

I am in the process of building a timber frame woodshed.  I'll post that later.  My circular saw has a blade that is not capable of cutting thru a 8"x8".  Any ideas how to cut it and get a straight cut?  My local rental place does not rent a big circular saw that timber framers use.

79Bombi


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## Jim_S RIP

how good are you with a chain saw?

Or, use your circular saw and a framing square to line things up.  Cut all four sides and then use a hand saw for the middle.


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## Spiffy1

jim slagle said:


> how good are you with a chain saw?
> 
> Or, use your circular saw and a framing square to line things up. Cut all four sides and then use a hand saw for the middle.


 
The former was my first thought too; I've had pretty good results even on railroad ties.  I'm not sure if I'm that bad with a framing square or just always find twisted and warped wood, but while only having tried it a couple times, I've never had the second method to come out with less than a blade width of error.

Now if you need perfection, I've never seen it done, but a little carpentry with your circular saw & a hole through your chainsaw bar might make for a neat "chainsaw miterbox" !  For slightly less precision a couple upright 2X6 guides on whatever base might do the same for you without drilling your bar - if you don't get off and chew them up on the first 8X8!


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## XeVfTEUtaAqJHTqq

jim slagle said:


> how good are you with a chain saw?
> 
> Or, use your circular saw and a framing square to line things up. Cut all four sides and then use a hand saw for the middle.


 
I've done both of these.  You can get a pretty good cut with a Chainsaw if you practice a little.


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## jwstewar

What about a recip saw? I've gotten pretty goods cuts before with one and a 12" blade. Just draw a line completely around so that you can see where you are supposed to be.


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## Av8r3400

My FIL has a timber saw, so I didn't need one on the Log House.

My neighbor (Building a Timber Frame House) just bought one, then plans on reselling it on Scam-Bay when he was done with it.  According to him, this is very common with the timber frame builders.  EBay


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## Spiffy1

Av8r3400 said:


> My FIL has a timber saw, so I didn't need one on the Log House.
> 
> My neighbor (Building a Timber Frame House) just bought one, then plans on reselling it on Scam-Bay when he was done with it. According to him, this is very common with the timber frame builders. EBay


 
Waaayyy off topic, but I had to do a double [more like triple] take on this  "Beam Saw" in your ebay search. I'd never seen one; not a bad likeness of the Poulan. No, I'm not bidding on it. Carry on.....


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## XeVfTEUtaAqJHTqq

jwstewar said:


> What about a recip saw? I've gotten pretty goods cuts before with one and a 12" blade. Just draw a line completely around so that you can see where you are supposed to be.


 
Might just be the operator but I've had a lot of bad cuts from reciprocating saws.  If you do go with a reciprocating saw get a good stiff blade and watch for the bending.


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## Jim_S RIP

PBinWA said:


> Might just be the operator but I've had a lot of bad cuts from reciprocating saws.  If you do go with a reciprocating saw get a good stiff blade and watch for the bending.



That's the problem with long blades and thick material on a recip saw


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## 79bombi

jim slagle said:


> how good are you with a chain saw?
> 
> Or, use your circular saw and a framing square to line things up.  Cut all four sides and then use a hand saw for the middle.



This was one of my thoughts I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing the obvious.  I figure I can use the first cut to start the second cut, etc...  It is pressure treated oak also.

79Bombi


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## Spiffy1

79bombi said:


> This was one of my thoughts I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing the obvious. I figure I can use the first cut to start the second cut, etc... It is pressure treated oak also.
> 
> 79Bombi


 
You might want to try the framing square to mark it out.  Again, maybe it's me or the lumber I've used, but for me while bad enough if it's marked: after rotating something 3 times [using the end for the next start], I'm lucky to come close to hitting the 1st starting point.  

Pressure treated oak?!   That can't be cheap!


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## 79bombi

Spiffy1 said:


> Pressure treated oak?!   That can't be cheap!



It is costing me a couple of drinks.  I have a friend in the lumber biz.   The rest of the wood is oak and ash I cut and had a local small sawmill cut.  I think pine would have been a billion times easier but I didn't have it.

http://www.motherearthnews.com/Green-Homes/1995-08-01/A-Timber-Frame-Woodshed.aspx


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## Erik

Here's a link to the Prazi Beam Saw attachment - lets you attach a 12 or 14" chain saw to your circular saw.  http://www.praziusa.com/beamcutter.html  good luck!


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## k-dog

I would do a combo of circular saw and recip saw.  Cut as deep as you can  with circular saw and finish with recip saw or do all the sides with circular saw and then do middle with recip saw.  I've never had good luck just using recip saw.  It seems the longer blades dance all over the place and bend pretty easy, even the better name blades.


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## mbsieg

I have pretty good results with my Alaskan mill..


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## Erik

actually, my gransberg mini-mill & my beam machine do a good job of cross cutting big stuff, too.  (different chainsaw attachments, good for ripping, but require a straight 2X to be nailed to the log as a guide)


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## cabinboy

I have a prazi beam cutter and it works great for cutting log or beams. the one I have is mounted on a dywalt skill saw . it has been used for three cabin and is being used by my a friend to cut beams on his cabin. This saw has worked great. You could even make dovetailed corners for your building and they would look great.


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## 4xbill

The old fashion way, hand saw it.


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## Dargo

4xbill said:


> The old fashion way, hand saw it.



I was going to suggest that but while using an old miter box to keep the cut straight.  I have an old miter box from my grandfather they used when building his house.  All it does is keep your handsaw straight.


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## spencerhenry

if you are trying to make a cut for the end of a beam that is visible, a portable band saw works excellent. if you dont have the dough or cant rent one, a skil saw from all four sides and then a sawzall, and then a grinder with a sanding disc to clean it up. 
 if you are making a cut for a joint, like the top of a post, or a splice, it is a combination of tools. say you are cutting an 8x8 for a post. draw square lines around all four sides, hopefully they all line up when done, if not try again. using a skil saw cut all four sides. then with a chainsaw cut about a half inch longer than needed and cut the piece off. now take the chainsaw in from each side at a slight angle, removing the half inch long part, but do not get the chain into the area already cut. you will be leaving the 2 inches or so around the outside as is and cutting the center of the piece a little bit lower. you can also do the dishing out with a grinder with a sanding disc. cutting the center of the post below the skil saw cuts allows for easy fitting of the pieces. there is still plenty of bearing, but no high spot in the center to open up your joint. i have done a fair amount of structural and architectural timbers and that has always worked well for me.


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## lowell

There is an attachment that just clamps onto the bar then you use a 2x4 as a guide but you need to get a different chain with a I beleive a 15 deg. angle on the cutters , if you try to use a reg. chain it will load up on you as when trying to rip with a cross cut . jmo


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