# Fill-Rite Fuel Transfer Pump help ........



## Big Dog

My 1200B 12V wouldn't pump tonight. Just used it 3 days ago, worked fine. Tank is a little low but the suction is at least 12" submerged. Suction is clear and rotor turns but not pulling. Pulled the filter just to remove all doubt and still no go. Pulled the pump cover and carbons look OK and the rotor turned freely.

Soooooooooo anything I need to try or should I just bite the bullet on a rebuild kit ($100)?


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## mla2ofus

Check the suction tube where it attaches to the bottom of the pump. Sounds like a leak somewhere between the surface of the fuel and the pump.
                                  Mike


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## Big Dog

mla2ofus said:


> Check the suction tube where it attaches to the bottom of the pump. Sounds like a leak somewhere between the surface of the fuel and the pump.
> Mike



I did find the joints loose and tightened them. It was getting dark and I just did a hand tighten. When I pull it tomorrow I'll do a closer look and check for cracks/holes etc .... Thanks!


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## pixie

Mine doesn't work either.
I'm hoping the suction pipe fell off or leaks.

Well not really hoping since I either have to remove the (heavy) truck cap or the whole tank to remove the pump...

Hope yours is easier to get to.


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## Alaska Snow Cat

There is a screen in the square block where the standpipe assembly attaches to the pump. You need to remove 4 bolts to take it apart. I somehow managed to suck up a leaf once and it took a while to figure out that was the problem. I've also had the sliding standpipe wear out where there is a teflon seal between the 2 sliding halves. Now I just install the correct length black iron pipe for the tank I am using.


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## Big Dog

Took the pump apart, found nothing out of the ordinary. Put a solid pipe suction on it and put it back together. Works fine, musta been a crack or two in the PVC suction pipe.


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## mla2ofus

Glad you got it fixed. I don't know why they put them on. Why not sell it a little cheaper and advise the buyer to furnish the solid suction pipe of the proper length.
                                         Mike


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## TuthillCorp

I too am happy that you resolved your issue with the pump not pumping.

I would also like to comment as to the reason that we place the steel telescoping suction tube in the box with the DC pumps we manufacture.

The DC pumps are usually placed in a tank in the back of a truck or a drum for transporting fuel to off-site locations.  When someone purchases the DC pump, like the FR1210C, we want to make sure that the customer has all the components needed to install the pump, including the suction pipe.  This suction pipe allows the customer to install the pump right out of the box.  It is needed as much as the hose, nozzle and battery cable that are also included with the pump.


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## 300 H and H

TuthillCorp....

I am impresed. Sounds like you have pump service down to an 'electronic" art!!

Good show I'd say!

Regards, Kirk


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## Melensdad

Damn Dog, I hate you.

My pump was working perfectly . . . I opened this thread . . . now my pump is broken too!

Mine is an OLD pump, worked great up until this weekend.  Its an AC, not a DC pump, sits outside on the tank.  Going to try to take a look at it over the next day or two.


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## mla2ofus

TuthillCorp said:


> I too am happy that you resolved your issue with the pump not pumping.
> 
> I would also like to comment as to the reason that we place the steel telescoping suction tube in the box with the DC pumps we manufacture.
> 
> The DC pumps are usually placed in a tank in the back of a truck or a drum for transporting fuel to off-site locations.  When someone purchases the DC pump, like the FR1210C, we want to make sure that the customer has all the components needed to install the pump, including the suction pipe.  This suction pipe allows the customer to install the pump right out of the box.  It is needed as much as the hose, nozzle and battery cable that are also included with the pump.



  Then why can't you incorporate a compression style seal on the sliding section so once the tube is the proper length the owner can then tighten it down to form a more perfect seal?
                                               Mike


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## TuthillCorp

Stonebreaker,

Thanks for your comment on incorporating a compression style seal on the suction tube.  I can certainly pass this idea on to our marketing folks for further consideration.

Based on your question, can I assume that you have had issues with the suction pipe that we provide with our products?  If so, is the seal at the sliding joint where you have had your issues?


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## Alaska Snow Cat

The seal is the weak link in the pickup tube for sure, I have owned 4 pumps over the years and have bought replacement tubes at least twice. Now I just make my own pickup tube to the correct length. Great overall product by the way.


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## mla2ofus

TuthillCorp said:


> Stonebreaker,
> 
> Thanks for your comment on incorporating a compression style seal on the suction tube.  I can certainly pass this idea on to our marketing folks for further consideration.
> 
> Based on your question, can I assume that you have had issues with the suction pipe that we provide with our products?  If so, is the seal at the sliding joint where you have had your issues?



  I don't even own one but I've seen enough of them replaced w/ a single length of pipe to know" If it's broke, you need to fix it!!", meaning your design dept. of course.
                                 Mike


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## TuthillCorp

mla2ofus said:


> I don't even own one but I've seen enough of them replaced w/ a single length of pipe to know" If it's broke, you need to fix it!!", meaning your design dept. of course.
> Mike


 
Thanks Mike.


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## Snowtrac Nome

good advice i also equip mine with a 1 way check valve at the bottom of the tube to keep a priming charge in the pipe when the level gets low


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## pixie

I had to do some fishing....
Guess there is just a lot of force in that sloshing fuel.


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## TuthillCorp

Ouch, you are correct though, the force of the fuel sloshing in the tank, can weaken the suction pipe.  Think of standing in a river against the current.  The weight of the water rushing past your legs takes a toll.  Same situation with the weight of the fuel in your tank pushing back and forth on the suction pipe.  The difference is that in the river, the pressure is all directed one way, where in your tank, it is pushing the pipe back and forth.


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## Dargo

TuthillCorp said:


> I too am happy that you resolved your issue with the pump not pumping.
> 
> I would also like to comment as to the reason that we place the steel telescoping suction tube in the box with the DC pumps we manufacture.
> 
> The DC pumps are usually placed in a tank in the back of a truck or a drum for transporting fuel to off-site locations.  When someone purchases the DC pump, like the FR1210C, we want to make sure that the customer has all the components needed to install the pump, including the suction pipe.  This suction pipe allows the customer to install the pump right out of the box.  It is needed as much as the hose, nozzle and battery cable that are also included with the pump.



Wow!  Too cool!!!  A company that still cares about their reputation and delivers customer service!  I can say that I'm a proud owner of 3 of your pumps.  So far, none have failed; even the one I have in my 'transfer' 110 gallon tank that rides in the back of my pickup truck.

It's clear you guys are NOT associated with Home Depot!  I would *highly* advise to never let them sell any of your products.  Thanks for your posts!!!


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## muleman RIP

Throw the tube away and cut the right length of black pipe. Then grind a notch in the bottom end so it never ends up tight on the bottom of the tank. That is how we always setup farm and portable tanks.


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## Big Dog

I'd be more than willing to pay an extra $10 for a solid pipe without having to make a separate run at a inopportune time! I had to cut 3" of a 4ft piece.


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## pixie

I got a 1"x30" black iron nipple and cut it 3/8 short of the bottom. If I need to, I can park leaning over and pointed downhill 

Thanks to TuthillCorp for offering a new suction pipe.


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## TuthillCorp

Big Dog,

The reason that we don't use a solid pipe is because it would more than double the size of the box to get the pipe in the box.  That doesn't work to well for stocking the pump.



Big Dog said:


> I'd be more than willing to pay an extra $10 for a solid pipe without having to make a separate run at a inopportune time! I had to cut 3" of a 4ft piece.


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## Melensdad

GOT MY ANCIENT PUMP WORKING TODAY.  

Turned out to be a wire that broke.  Simple fix.


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## TuthillCorp

Very nice.  Thanks for the update.

If you have anything else that you need assistance with, just let me know!



Melensdad said:


> GOT MY ANCIENT PUMP WORKING TODAY.
> 
> Turned out to be a wire that broke. Simple fix.


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## TuthillCorp

Big Dog said:


> My 1200B 12V wouldn't pump tonight. Just used it 3 days ago, worked fine. Tank is a little low but the suction is at least 12" submerged. Suction is clear and rotor turns but not pulling. Pulled the filter just to remove all doubt and still no go. Pulled the pump cover and carbons look OK and the rotor turned freely.
> 
> Soooooooooo anything I need to try or should I just bite the bullet on a rebuild kit ($100)?


 
First, I just want to be sure that you had replaced the suction tube.  I noticed that you thought you had some cracks in the PVC pieces, so I am assuming that you replaced the tube with a black iron pipe or something similar.

You can also check the bypass valve.  It is behind the large nut on the side of the pump.  If there is something stuck behind the plastic poppet, that is holding the valve open, the pump won't generate vacuum, so it can't pump.

You can also remove the pump from the tank by removing the 4 bolts on the inlet flange and check the screen at the inlet.  At the same time, you can place your palm over the inlet of the pump and turn the pump on to see if there is any vacuum.

Make sure that the battery cable is on the right connection to the battery.  If you reverse the polarity, the pump will run backwards.  It sounds like it should be working, yet it can't pump if the motor is running in reverse.

If all the above fails, then yes, you should rebuild the pump.  It will replace the rotor, rotor cover, rotor key, vanes, bypass valve, screen, and all gaskets.  You could have a gasket that is just not sealing very well and is allowing air in.

Keep me posted on what you find.


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## Big Dog

TuthillCorp said:


> First, I just want to be sure that you had replaced the suction tube.  I noticed that you thought you had some cracks in the PVC pieces, so I am assuming that you replaced the tube with a black iron pipe or something similar. *Correct!
> *
> You can also check the bypass valve.  It is behind the large nut on the side of the pump.  If there is something stuck behind the plastic poppet, that is holding the valve open, the pump won't generate vacuum, so it can't pump. *Did that found nothing!
> *
> You can also remove the pump from the tank by removing the 4 bolts on the inlet flange and check the screen at the inlet.  At the same time, you can place your palm over the inlet of the pump and turn the pump on to see if there is any vacuum. *Did that found nothing!
> *
> Make sure that the battery cable is on the right connection to the battery.  If you reverse the polarity, the pump will run backwards.  It sounds like it should be working, yet it can't pump if the motor is running in reverse. *Used the tractor battery and my jump starter, doubt I crossed them both times but hey I'm old.*
> 
> If all the above fails, then yes, you should rebuild the pump.  It will replace the rotor, rotor cover, rotor key, vanes, bypass valve, screen, and all gaskets.  You could have a gasket that is just not sealing very well and is allowing air in. *Running fine since replacing the suction pipe.
> *
> Keep me posted on what you find.



See answers above and thanks for the concern!


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## TuthillCorp

Big Dog,

Thanks for your reply.  It sounds as if there is no vacuum being generated by the pump, hence it can't lift the fuel (actually, the atmospheric pressure can't push the fuel to the pump in the absence of a vacuum).

You mention that you have a 1200B.  Just how old is your pump?  We haven't manufactured the "B" series of pumps for over 10 years.  If you have never rebuilt the pump, I am sure that doing so now will help.

If you are going to consider replacing the pump, I just want you to be aware that we have a couple of different options that will give you a higher flow rate.  The 4200 series will do around 20 GPM, and our new 3200 series will do around 25 (both will depend on what accessories you add to the pump).

If you choose to get the rebuild kit, I would like to know the length of your vanes.  It will make a difference in which kit you need.  Toward the end of the "B" series pump, we made the cavity in the pump a bit deeper, so the vanes had to get a bit longer.

Let me know what you decide to do.


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## Big Dog

Thanks for the reply! I'm surely not in the position to purchase a new pump when I have one that works. I really don't need much when all I do is fill a 15 gallon tractor tank.  As far as the age I haven't a clue, purchased it with the tank from a forum member (BCzoom). What are the vane lengths? The ones I have are approximately 1 1/4 inch.


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## TuthillCorp

Big Dog said:


> Thanks for the reply! I'm surely not in the position to purchase a new pump when I have one that works. I really don't need much when all I do is fill a 15 gallon tractor tank. As far as the age I haven't a clue, purchased it with the tank from a forum member (BCzoom). What are the vane lengths? The ones I have are approximately 1 1/4 inch.


 
The length of the t vanes are 1.2485" and 1.1245, so you have the longer vane.

The rebuild kit is 4200KTF8739.  This kit will also contain a new shaft seal that is located behind the rotor.  If you don't have a leak (you would see fuel coming out the weep hole by the bypass valve cap if you had a leak), don't replace this seal.  Just keep the new one in case you ever do get a leak.

You will also get a new rotor cover in this kit.  Please use the new rotor cover with the new rotor.  We went from rotors and covers that were not hardened to hardened ones, and then back.  If you install a rotor that is now not hardened and you have a hardened cover, you will wear the rotor out in a very short time, so replace both the rotor and cover that you get in your kit.

Thanks!


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## iceman93

We have a 1200 model . Was working great until we decided to change the filter then turned out the suction tube in the tank came off . I replaced it with a 24" 1" pipe . Don't understand what happened to it . The filter is dry , the tank is full what can I do besides replace the pump ? Everything inside looks good and turns easy . Any ideas asap ?


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## Jim_S RIP

Iceman, welcome to the forum!  

You should pm tuthillcorp.  He's great at helping with pump problems.  He can get you part numbers for anything you need.

First I would check the new suction tube length to make sure it's not touching the bottom and blocking the inlet.

Jim


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## TuthillCorp

Hello Iceman,

TuthillCorp here.  Sorry to hear that you lost your suction pipe in the tank.  That does happen from time to time.

As Jim mentioned, you do need to make sure that your suction pipe isn't down by the bottom of the tank.  We recommend that it be at least 2 to 3 inches above the bottom of the tank to ensure good fuel flow.

Another thing to check is to make sure that the threads on the new suction pipe are sealed.  If there is any possibility of air getting in, the pump will pull in air.

One other thing to do to try and get the pump to prime is to either remove the nozzle (I am guessing that you are using an automatic nozzle, like at a gas station) and see if the pump will prime.

The automatic nozzles have a check valve in the spout (where it connects to the nozzle body), and if there is air trapped in the pump, the pump won't generate enough air pressure to open the check valve in the nozzle.  If the air is "trapped" in the pump and can't be discharged, nothing will happen.

Of course, the last thing (or maybe the first thing) is to make sure that the voltage to the pump is connected correctly.  If the wiring is reversed (+ on black and - on red), the pump will run in reverse and nothing will pump.

I am currently traveling out of the country, but I will check my e-mails from time to time, so let me know if you get your pump back up and running.

Best Regards,
Tuthill Tech Support


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## Melensdad

iceman93 said:


> We have a 1200 model . Was working great until we decided to change the filter then turned out the suction tube in the tank came off . I replaced it with a 24" 1" pipe . Don't understand what happened to it . The filter is dry , the tank is full what can I do besides replace the pump ? Everything inside looks good and turns easy . Any ideas asap ?



First off WELCOME to the forum, but secondly don't lose faith in the pump.  All of us here who have used these pumps have an issue from time to time and Fill-Rite/Tuthill have come along and helped every one of us.  

Try the suggestions above, and if those don't work, repost, with photos and more information.  Most likely it will be made to work again.


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## Snowtrac Nome

I have a fill right pump problem I have to pack the cavity's of the pump with grease to get it to pump once it is shut off you have to re prime it again the veins look good but do have some wear I don't know how much is too much the relief valve has been removed and cleaned same problem the data plate says  style fr4200d


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## TuthillCorp

Thanks Don,

TuthillCorp here.  Sorry to hear about your issue with the FR4200D series pump not wanting to prime.

You mention that the vanes are worn.  If they are worn, then the rotor is worn as well.  If they wear enough, there will be a gap between the rotor cover and the rotor, which will decrease the vacuum the pump can generate.

Can you tell me how old the pump is?  On the data plate, in the bottom left corner, you should see 4 numbers stamped into the plate.  The first 2 numbers are the week we manufactured the pump, and the last 2 numbers are the year.

It could be that you simply need to replace the rotor and the vanes, along with the rotor cover, rotor cover gasket, and the rotor key.

Also, on the vanes themselves, one side is smooth, and the other side will either have 1 large notch in it, or 3 notches.  If you can tell me which one, I can let you know what options you have for parts.

Best Regards,
TuthillCorp



Snowtrac Nome said:


> I have a fill right pump problem I have to pack the cavity's of the pump with grease to get it to pump once it is shut off you have to re prime it again the veins look good but do have some wear I don't know how much is too much the relief valve has been removed and cleaned same problem the data plate says  style fr4200d


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## bczoom

TuthillCorp said:


> Thanks Don,
> 
> TuthillCorp here.  Sorry to hear about your issue with the FR4200D series pump not wanting to prime.


You guys are awesome.  Not even an hour elapsed before you were helping.

I'll keep buying your pumps. 

_Still wish you had a hand-crank that for a 55-gal that can handle alcohol._


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## Snowtrac Nome

there is a single depression in the vein just like the larger blackmear pumps I work on  the date code is 05-05 when I got the pump it was sealed with silicone I cleaned all the crap out of it and installed a o-ring from my cat kit. it may be the o-ring is too big to finances are tight right now it may be I just need to buy a rebuild kit for it


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## Snowtrac Nome

good info replaced the o-ring with a softer thinner silicone type sucks like monica Lewinsky now


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## Snowtrac Nome

bczoom said:


> You guys are awesome. Not even an hour elapsed before you were helping.
> 
> I'll keep buying your pumps.
> 
> _Still wish you had a hand-crank that for a 55-gal that handle alcohol._



you are right the tech support side is awesome, not like some company's that say it must be abuse or what do you expect out of a product that is 10 years old. this pump is a keeper I will eventually rebuild it and continue to use it for product transfer as my 110 volt dispenser pump is just too heavy. and also has a water block filter for final delivery into the truck.


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## EastTexFrank

Snowtrac Nome said:


> good info replaced the o-ring with a softer thinner silicone type sucks like monica Lewinsky now



God, I wish that I'd said that!!!!

For TuthillCorp, I've had one of your 110v pumps for the 12 years and it's still going strong.  The 12v pump is only a few months old but I expect that it'll see me out.  Thanks for a great product ... and customer service.


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## TuthillCorp

Thanks for the kind words gents!

Feel free to contact me anytime.

Best Regards,
TuthillCorp


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## juniormarbles

*Where to find a Rotor Key for a C1200?*

This message is directed to Mr. TuthillCorp, but also others who may be able to help:

I am desperately in need of the rotor key that affixes the rotor to the motor shaft of my Fill-Rite 1200C transfer pump (build date: 18/08). 

I have not been able to source just the key, and as all other parts in the pump work perfectly fine and there is no corrosion or debris build-up (less than 1/2 hour total service on the unit), I do not need an expensive rebuild kit. Just a replacement for the fiberboard key I lost!

Can you help? I live in the Portland, OR region.

Thanks, JM


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## TuthillCorp

*Re: Where to find a Rotor Key for a C1200?*

JM,

Thanks for the private message on this issue.

I will be able to help you out!

Best Regards,
TuthillCorp



juniormarbles said:


> This message is directed to Mr. TuthillCorp, but also others who may be able to help:
> 
> I am desperately in need of the rotor key that affixes the rotor to the motor shaft of my Fill-Rite 1200C transfer pump (build date: 18/08).
> 
> I have not been able to source just the key, and as all other parts in the pump work perfectly fine and there is no corrosion or debris build-up (less than 1/2 hour total service on the unit), I do not need an expensive rebuild kit. Just a replacement for the fiberboard key I lost!
> 
> Can you help? I live in the Portland, OR region.
> 
> Thanks, JM


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## juniormarbles

I am elated! Thank you so much for your help.

It's been a long time since I have received such dedication from any representative of a company! I've followed Mr. Tuthill's previous responses to other Fill-Rite owners' queries, and can only hope that Tuthill's management recognizes what a difference his service makes for the company's image and reputation.
This kind of customer service influences my future buying decisions.

JM


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## juniormarbles

Pump works again, thanks to Mr. Tuthill's superb customer service. 

I can heartily recommend the Tuthill company's products, just for the fact alone that its customer service is absolutely tops!
JM


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## crhabeck

My 12v pump's rotor spins freely so the fiber key needs to be replaced.  How does it come off?    The rotor spins freely but does not slide off.  Do I need to remove the center screw?  If so, how since the motor turns with the screw?  CanI get only the fiber key?  The pump is a couple of years old but has only been used a total of 45 minutes.


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## TuthillCorp

Thanks for your post on your 12 VDC pump.


I a man a bit confused to your reference of a "center screw".  We do not have any screws inside the pump.  There should only be the rotor, the vanes (they slide in the slots in the rotor), and the fiber rotor key. 


If you can send me a picture of the center screw, that would also help.


You should be able to remove the vanes and slide the rotor off the motor shaft and clean out the broken rotor.


If you private message me with your address, I can get you a new fiber rotor key.


Thanks again for your post.


Best Regards,
TuthillCorp




crhabeck said:


> My 12v pump's rotor spins freely so the fiber key needs to be replaced.  How does it come off?    The rotor spins freely but does not slide off.  Do I need to remove the center screw?  If so, how since the motor turns with the screw?  CanI get only the fiber key?  The pump is a couple of years old but has only been used a total of 45 minutes.


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## crhabeck

Hi,

Sorfy about the delay.  Mixed up two different items.  I do need a new key though.

How do you send a private message?

Thanks


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## TuthillCorp

No problem crhabeck,

I sent you a private message.  You can access it by clicking on private messages at the top right of the page in the grey box that says Welcome crhabeck.

Best Regards,
TuthillCorp


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## Snowtrac Nome

mr tuthill I have a pump had a bad o ring in it I installed a new one from an o ring kit that was the wrong size I cracked my pump housing is it cost effective to order a new pump assembly or is it just good for parts now


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## TuthillCorp

Hello Snowtrac,

Ouch, the pump housing actually cracked?  If possible, I would like to see a picture of what cracked.

To answer your question though, we do not provide the pump housing casting.  On many of our models, the pump casting is actually part of the motor assembly. Trying to remove it creates an issue with the explosion proof rating of the pump as it compromises the flame paths that we need to build into the pump to get our explosion proof approvals. 

So, bottom line, your pump is now good for parts.

Again, I would like to see a picture if you could.

Best Regards,
TuthillCorp



Snowtrac Nome said:


> mr tuthill I have a pump had a bad o ring in it I installed a new one from an o ring kit that was the wrong size I cracked my pump housing is it cost effective to order a new pump assembly or is it just good for parts now


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## Snowtrac Nome

TuthillCorp said:


> Hello Snowtrac,
> 
> Ouch, the pump housing actually cracked? If possible, I would like to see a picture of what cracked.
> 
> To answer your question though, we do not provide the pump housing casting. On many of our models, the pump casting is actually part of the motor assembly. Trying to remove it creates an issue with the explosion proof rating of the pump as it compromises the flame paths that we need to build into the pump to get our explosion proof approvals.
> 
> So, bottom line, your pump is now good for parts.
> 
> Again, I would like to see a picture if you could.
> 
> 
> 
> Best Regards,
> TuthillCorp



going to teller this morning when I get back I will put it up  I know of another pump with a bad motor but it is locked up and that crew hasn't been back to town for years  I know you don't want to hear it if I can get my hands on that one some day I will replace the motor with mine .


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## TuthillCorp

Snowtrac Nome said:


> going to teller this morning when I get back I will put it up  I know of another pump with a bad motor but it is locked up and that crew hasn't been back to town for years  I know you don't want to hear it if I can get my hands on that one some day I will replace the motor with mine .



Hello Snowtrac,

I understand where you are coming from.

Just let me know if you have any further questions!

Best Regards,
TuthillCorp


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## bczoom

Tuthill - Hope you're still around.
I have your FR1211C 12v pump with manual nozzle.
Want to switch to an auto nozzle.
I'm pumping gas.
I think your N075UAU10 nozzle looks like what I need but hoping you can confirm or provide a more appropriate model.

Thanks in advance!


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## Willazz2003

Hello,
I have a model 700 pump that was working fine on my diesel tank. The problem is when i installed it on a gasoline tank it worked about 4 times and it quit.  What is does is that it hums. So i removed the cover for the veins and rotor. And turned it on and it spins. When i put the cover it will only spin if i dont tighten the bolts. So basically is looks like the vein and or rotor is being compressed when the cover is on. Can someone help me out and give me an idea on what is causing this. I though maybe the gasket on the cover shrank but no it is slightly popping out of the opening it goes into. Is it possible that the shaft the rotor goes on could have moved out of place?


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## bczoom

There's a repair/rebuild kit available for that pump.
I "think" this would work on your pump (confirm!) but here it is at Home Depot for $120.








						FILL-RITE Overhaul Repair Kit - 700 Series AC Fuel Transfer Pumps (V Series) 700KTF2659 - The Home Depot
					

Built into every fuel transfer pump is over 50 years of experience along with the pride and workmanship associated with the FILL-RITE brand. We use only the most durable materials to insure long life and dependability. FILL-RITE branded products deliver superior performance time and time again...



					www.homedepot.com


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