# Runaway Diesel Engine



## Cowboy

Well Just as I thought things couldn,t get worse , one of my all time biggest fears happened yesterday on my new tractor as I was putting down rock in my drive about 1/4 mile away from the house . 

 Like the title says , I was back dragging with the bucket in reverse & looking torwards the rear as I was backing up in a fairlly high gear , When the engine started to runaway at a very high RPM . I hadn,t noticed the smoke pouring from the stack untill I turned to the frontend & put it back in forward gear & headed for the house . I checked the temp & oil guage & they were both normal .

   As I got closer to the house it started running even faster around 2500 RPM I think so I killed the switch & pulled the compresion release & I couldn,t get it to shutoff , I also couldn,t get the trans in a lower gear so I could kill it with braking , nor could I push in the clutch because it even reved higher . I actually dont even know what I finally did to get it to shut off but right in front of the house it finally died . I jumped of & imidiatlly shut the fuel supply off just in case .

  My wife was out front in her garden & watched the whole time because she had never heard me run it at that speed , She said the heavy smoke kept getting worse & eventually flames were shooting out of the exhaust as well as knocking sounds . All of this took place within less then 30 seconds my wife said but it seemed like an hour to me . 

Luckilly since it stopped in Our narrow drive & the only way in or out of our place I was smart enough to never have dropped the 3 point or bucket so I could pull it around to the shop . 


 After finally settling down & drinking a few beers to get my heart pumping again  I checked it over & it didn,t seem overheated , No leaks of any kind , Untill I pulled the oil dipstick & it started running out of the top which I,m guessing was diesel fuel in the crankcase . 

  I haven,t went back out Since & I,m sure the first thing to do will be drain the oil & change the filter . I have no clue if it will even spin over or if or how much damage it might have caused . But It didn,t seem like the engine seized at the time but I cant swear to it . 

  Needless to say I,m still perty upset about this & not thinking quite right so any & all advice , Ideas or even comments of how bad i fucked up will be apreciated  . 

   I was told it was still under warranty when I bought it but never received the paperwork to transfer it & cannot reach the dealer that it was purchased from in Wichita Falls Texas , So I know I,m perty well screwed & now have both tractors down & still tons of work to do . Thanks for reading


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## Snowtrac Nome

I'm guessing that it was a bad lift pump or a injection pump seal if it's one of them new fangled electronic riggs than injectors and o-rings could be the problem any ways not good you might have saved it only an oil change will tell that is your first step next step is find out where the fuel came from i would bet the knock was fuel nock fom too much fuel on the pistons


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## Cowboy

Good info Don , makes sense Thanks . I,m getting ready to go drain the oil & I think I,ll turn the fuel back on & see if its still running out . Tractors a 2009 & only got 135 hours on it , but I dont recon that means much these days Epecially being a YTO made in China .


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## Cowboy

Well I drained a little over 4 gallons out of the crankcase & let it drain for quite awhile . Refilled it with the 7.1 litres it calls for . It fired right up smoke cleared fairlly quick & no noises , or metal shaving in the oil . 

  I just let it run long enough to get it in the shop & the oil level raised a bit so I,m guessing as Don said probablly a seal in the injector pump . I,ll pull the pump & see what I can find but more then likelly will have an expert go through the pump just be be safe , Then drain it a few more times if I think its fixed . Hopefully I lucked out this time .  But I,d still like to here others thoughts on this if they have ever ran into this problem before . thanks


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## waybomb

Turbo seals let go? Dumping oil into the intake side in a fine mist. I've seen it happen. Only way to shut that one down was throw a jacket on the air intake.


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## Snowtrac Nome

Cowboy said:


> Well I drained a little over 4 gallons out of the crankcase & let it drain for quite awhile . Refilled it with the 7.1 litres it calls for . It fired right up smoke cleared fairlly quick & no noises , or metal shaving in the oil .
> 
> I just let it run long enough to get it in the shop & the oil level raised a bit so I,m guessing as Don said probablly a seal in the injector pump . I,ll pull the pump & see what I can find but more then likelly will have an expert go through the pump just be be safe , Then drain it a few more times if I think its fixed . Hopefully I lucked out this time .  But I,d still like to here others thoughts on this if they have ever ran into this problem before . thanks


don't forget if you have a cam operated lift pump to check it first i have seen diaphrams rupture and fill the crank case with fuel both on gas motors and diesel engines.


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## Cowboy

waybomb said:


> Turbo seals let go? Dumping oil into the intake side in a fine mist. I've seen it happen. Only way to shut that one down was throw a jacket on the air intake.


 
 No turbo on this at least that I,m aware of waybomb , unless their makin turbos a lot different then I,m used to on big deisel engines . Which sure could be the case , as I haven,t messed with anything much newer then late 70,s tractors Semi or otherwise for years .  I,ll post some pics of the engine as I should have before , Just in case it would come in handy for anyone else . But yes that would sure make sense as well & Thanks for the input 



dds said:


> don't forget if you have a cam operated lift pump to check it first i have seen diaphrams rupture and fill the crank case with fuel both on gas motors and diesel engines.


 
 I,ll have to check that as well Don Thanks again . I did however notice there is electrical running to the Inj pump as well though so who knows , I seem to be the only one in the states Dumb or lucky enough to have bought one of these YTO tractors , Up till now I,ve been very pleased . When I bought it there were at least 3 dealers in the US that were all hyped up about bringing the YTO to the US market & now they all have seemed to go out of business But for what I spent in comparison to the name brand so called popular tractors that are even less impresive & also made overseas , I knew the risk when I bought it . But I can still bitch about it


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## fogtender

dds said:


> I'm guessing that it was a bad lift pump or a injection pump seal if it's one of them new fangled electronic riggs than injectors and o-rings could be the problem any ways not good you might have saved it only an oil change will tell that is your first step next step is find out where the fuel came from i would bet the knock was fuel nock fom too much fuel on the pistons


 
That was what I was going to say.  You get too much fuel or oil in the crankcase and the crank starts to whip up the oil and then it goes out the breather into the intake and fuels the engine to over reving.

Issue that you may have is that the fuel oil dilutes the lube oil and you can score your cylinders or wipe/score the bearings.  More than likely the seals didn't leak that much that fast and you may have been running the engine for an extended time with the lubrication issues.  

Maybe all is good, but if it were my tractor, after dumping the oil, I would at least pull the pan and a bearing cap to check for any damage, if all is good and you can see the cylinder's from underneath and they look good, then fix the leak and have at it.  If there is damage but at the scratching stage, you can roll new bearings in after polishing the journals if they aren't badly damaged.

Anyway, good luck!


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## Cowboy

fogtender said:


> That was what I was going to say. You get too much fuel or oil in the crankcase and the crank starts to whip up the oil and then it goes out the breather into the intake and fuels the engine to over reving.
> 
> Issue that you may have is that the fuel oil dilutes the lube oil and you can score your cylinders or wipe/score the bearings. More than likely the seals didn't leak that much that fast and you may have been running the engine for an extended time with the lubrication issues.
> 
> Maybe all is good, but if it were my tractor, after dumping the oil, I would at least pull the pan and a bearing cap to check for any damage, if all is good and you can see the cylinder's from underneath and they look good, then fix the leak and have at it. If there is damage but at the scratching stage, you can roll new bearings in after polishing the journals if they aren't badly damaged.
> 
> Anyway, good luck!


 

More good advice thanks fogtender . I,m about 99% certain this problem came about within a matter of a few minutes if not less time , Because I had just checked the dipstick level right before starting this project & it was right on the mark . 

After refilling & knowing the oil lever once again was right on the mark I only ran it long enough to drive forward about 20 feet turn around & back it into the shop another 30 feet , It ran no longer then 2 minutes . I shut the fuel off for safety reasons & checked the dipstick again & the level is about 3 inches higher on the dipstick in that short amount of time . So Whatever is causing the fuel to leak in to the crankcase is very quick , IMO 

I dont know if that will help narrow down what might be leaking or not but it seems to be far worse then a simple seal to me . 

What did surprise me that even though I drained out over twice as much out of the crankcase then what should have been in there the viscosity didn,t appear to be that much thinner then that of about 10W30 & I had been running 10W40 in it , of coarse thats just a guess . 

I,ll get a few pics in a few minutes as I,m wondering if it might not be some type of electrical issue that might be causing the leaking or something just stuck in the pump posiblly . I,m really not familiar with this type of injector pump at all . Any thoughts are welcome .


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## tsaw

Cowboy said:


> I,ll get a few pics in a few minutes as I,m wondering if it might not be some type of electrical issue that might be causing the leaking or something just stuck in the pump posiblly . I,m really not familiar with this type of injector pump at all . Any thoughts are welcome .



Definitely not electrical. No way. No how. It is 100% a seal of some sorts. That I'm 100% sure of. A electrical issue would never fill the crankcase with fuel. Only a leaking diaphragm or o ring. IMHO.


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## Cowboy

I haven,t had time to mess with this one anymore since I,ve been trying to get my other one going , But I did start it & pull it outside to remove the mower deck & noticed my hydraulics are barelly working at all like its really low on hydraulic fluid . 

  Now that has me thinking since the damn near 4 gallons of oil I drained out didn,t appear to be thinned or smell anything like diesel fuel is it posable hydraulic fluid could be getting into the crankcase & might have caused the problem ? If so how the hell could it have gotten into the oil ? 

 I only ran it for a minute or so & the oil level appeared to be a bit higher on the dipstick & I have no fuel guage to tell if or how much fuel I might have lost . I,m just wondering if I been looking at it wrong , I hate to pull the injector pump in & have it checked if it may ib fact be something else . Any thoughts ? Thanks


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## pixie

You might have an oil cooler and an hydraulic oil cooler . When you get a chance, chase some hoses. I can't imagine what would happen to them but if the engine oil didn't smell like diesel, it seems like a more likely cause.


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## Cowboy

pixie said:


> You might have an oil cooler and an hydraulic oil cooler . When you get a chance, chase some hoses. I can't imagine what would happen to them but if the engine oil didn't smell like diesel, it seems like a more likely cause.


 

  Its sure worth a look , I,ll check into it Pixie , thanks for the reply .


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## darroll

Do you have fuel in the fuel tank?
Diesel engines used to run away when they run out of fuel.


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## Cowboy

darroll said:


> Do you have fuel in the fuel tank?
> Diesel engines used to run away when they run out of fuel.


 

 YesSir I do its got about 8 gallons in it as near as I can tell . I will be adding a fuel guage soon so I can keep better track . Why it didn,t come with one I,ll never know it sure seems to have everything else I DONT need .  . Thanks for the reply though Darroll , it sure could have been something I overlooked .


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## muleman RIP

If it has a common sump hydraulic system you might be getting oil from there. Is the pump mounted to the engine and gear driven? The Mitsubishi engines were known for leaking hydraulic into the engine sump when the seal on the hydraulic pump leaked.


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## Cowboy

muleman said:


> If it has a common sump hydraulic system you might be getting oil from there. Is the pump mounted to the engine and gear driven? The Mitsubishi engines were known for leaking hydraulic into the engine sump when the seal on the hydraulic pump leaked.


 

 I,ll honestly have to go look at the manual & the tractor , i aint had the hood open but a few times & still not familiar with this tractor , but I,m thinking It is a gear driven pump on the engine . Thanks for the Idea Bill . I,ll look & maybe take a few pics .


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## muleman RIP

You may have a relief valve that is not opening when you work your hydraulics to a dead head condition. This will blow the pump seals real quick.


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## Cowboy

muleman said:


> You may have a relief valve that is not opening when you work your hydraulics to a dead head condition. This will blow the pump seals real quick.


 

 I gota say the manuals I have perty much suck , It does show a hyraulic steering pump but doest even cover the engine or show whats where . All I have to go on are what I think & posting pics . 

  It looks to be a hydraulic pump & another pump that goes through the front of the case & looks to connect through the front case there so I,m guessing definatlly gear driven & I,m assuming the front pump is the steering pump & the rest of the hydraulics run from the rear of the pump . But there also appears to be some kind of pump that runs off the rear of the altenator . Hopefully the pics will show better what I,m talking about . Thanks again & all opinions or ideas are appreciated .


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## muleman RIP

Well here is my WAG on what you have. The pump on the alternator may be a high volume self priming pump to pick up oil from the sump and supply it to the main hydraulic pump. The other pump would be for your hydraulics and power steering. Follow the lines and it should allow you to figure out what goes where. The pump most likely has a seal where it is gear driven off the engine. Can you find any info on the pump label? That would be a start to locate the seal. Most main hydraulics are run in steel tube and go to hoses from valve bodies etc.


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## muleman RIP

Here is the website for parts for your tractor.
http://yto-usa.com/Article/Parts/


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## Cowboy

muleman said:


> Well here is my WAG on what you have. The pump on the alternator may be a high volume self priming pump to pick up oil from the sump and supply it to the main hydraulic pump. The other pump would be for your hydraulics and power steering. Follow the lines and it should allow you to figure out what goes where. The pump most likely has a seal where it is gear driven off the engine. Can you find any info on the pump label? That would be a start to locate the seal. Most main hydraulics are run in steel tube and go to hoses from valve bodies etc.


 

 I tried to read the label on what I belive to be the main hydraulic pump but what I could see was in chinese & I cant see worth a shit , but I,m sure theres at least numbers or posablly a model number stamped into it . I,ll check further & see if my wife can make it out later or tommorow . 

  The last pic I posted is what I,m sure is the hydraulic tube right below the frame & the line from it runs directlly to the back of the pump itself . But I think this may be the problem or at least I,m hoping so . 

  I,ll see what else I can read or see & narrow down what goes to where & either post back later tonight or tommorow , Not that i expect a reply anytime soon . But I do appreciate the help & opinions because I,ve been afraid it may be far more serious then what it might be .


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## Cowboy

muleman said:


> Here is the website for parts for your tractor.
> http://yto-usa.com/Article/Parts/


 

 Thats either where the tractor came from or there right in the same neighborhood & so far I haven,t had any response from them & the dealer has since went out of buisness . But I,m still hoping , Im not sure I tryed that particulsr phone # yet . But thanks for the link .


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## Cowboy

OK , I got the # off of the hydraulic pump , I still am not sure of brand but here is what I have found , in trouble shooting from the chinese link . I,m not sure what might have been lost in translating though . It makes mention of the fuel tank a few times . 

This is the pump . Mine is a CBN-E310L . I cant find any breakdown on it for seals or parts though . 
http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=zh-CN&u=http://www.xxyy-cn.com/%3Faction%3Dwareshow%257Cxinxing%257C1238%257Ccn%257C1851,1590%257C2&ei=Ii6GTIH1IsKqlAfwgIGpDw&sa=X&oi=translate&ct=result&resnum=6&ved=0CCsQ7gEwBQ&prev=/search%3Fq%3DCBN-E310L%26hl%3Den%26rls%3Dcom.microsoft:en-US%26rlz%3D1I7GPEA_enUS293


  I found this pump at Affordabletractors website Thats allmost the same # CBN-E314-200

http://www.affordabletractorsalesco...?cid=1225&catid=106&picid=2776&category=Parts Center&sub_category=Hydraulics&scid=100&PHPSESSID=d97135d724272d201e40f13619cd0e42

hydraulic pump repair kit here , but not sure if it would be the same as my pump or not , Hell I aint even sure its my problem . 

http://www.affordabletractorsalesco...?cid=1243&catid=106&picid=1397&category=Parts Center&sub_category=Hydraulics&scid=100&PHPSESSID=d97135d724272d201e40f13619cd0e42





http://translate.google.com/transla...n&rls=com.microsoft:en-US&rlz=1I7GPEA_enUS293 




现象​ Phenomenon 
产生原因​ Cause 
排除方法​ Troubleshooting 

外渗漏​ Extravasation 

1、密封老化或损伤​ 1, seal aging or injury 
更换密封​ Replace seal 
2、进出油口连接部位松动​ 2, loose joints and out of the oil port 
紧固螺钉或管接头​ Fastening screws or fittings 
3、密封面磕碰​ 3, sealing surface bump 
修磨密封面​ Sealing surface grinding 
4、外壳体砂眼​ 4, shell body trachoma 
更换外壳体​ Replacement shell body 
油泵​ Pump 

吸不​ Do not smoke 

上油​ Oil 

或无​ Or no 

压力​ Pressure 
1、原动机与油泵旋转不一致​ 1, the original motive is inconsistent with the pump rotation 
纠正原动机旋向​ Correct rotation of the original motivation 
2、油泵传动键脱落​ 2, oil pump drive key off 
重新安装传动机​ Reinstall the transfer motive 
3、进出油口接反​ 3, reversed out of the oil port 
按说明书选用正确接法​ Choose the correct method according to the instruction received 
4、油箱内油面过低，吸入管口露出液面​ 4, the oil surface within the tank is too low, exposed surface suction nozzle 
补充油液至最低油标线以上​ Add oil to the oil standard above the minimum 
5、转速太低吸力不足​ 5, lack of speed is too low suction 
提高转速达到油泵最低转速以上​ Increase speed to pump more than the minimum speed 
6、油温过低，使油粘度过高​ 6, oil temperature is too low, so that the oil viscosity is too high 
加温至推荐正常工作油温​ Heating oil temperature to the recommended work 
7、吸入管道或过滤装置堵塞造成吸油不顺​ 7, suction pipe or filter blockage caused by suction ring true 
清洗管道或过滤装置，除去堵塞物，或更换过滤箱内油液​ Cleaning pipe or filter, to remove blockages, or replace the oil filter box 
8、吸入口过滤器过滤精度过高造成吸油不畅​ 8, intake filters caused by excessive oil absorption poor accuracy 
按说明书正确选用过滤器​ Choose the correct filter according to the instruction 
9、吸入管道漏气​ 9, inhalation of leaking pipes 
检查管道各连接处，并予以密封、坚固​ Check all pipe joints and to be sealed, rugged 
10、小排量油泵吸力不足​ 10, small-displacement pump suction less than 
向泵内注满油​ Fill the oil pump 

流量​ Flow 

不足​ Inadequate 

达不​ Tat 

到额​ To the amount of 

定植​ Colonization 
1、转速未达到额定转速​ 1, speed does not meet the rated speed 
按说明书指定额定转速选用电机转速​ Rated speed specified by manual selection of motor speed 
2、系统中有泄露​ 2, the system has leaked 
检查系统，修补泄露点​ Inspection system, repair leak point 
3、由于油泵长时间工作、振动使泵盖螺钉松动​ 3, due to oil pump to work long hours, shaking loose the pump cover screw 
适当拧紧螺钉​ Tighten the screws properly 
4、吸入管道漏气​ 4, suction pipe leakage 
检查管道各连接处，并予以密封、坚固​ Check all pipe joints and to be sealed, rugged 
5、吸油不充分​ 5, oil is not sufficient 

油箱内油面过低​ The oil surface within the tank is too low 
补充油液至最低油标线以上​ Add oil to the oil standard above the minimum 
入口滤油器堵塞或通流量过小​ Import filter plug or through the small flow 
清洗过滤器或选用流量为油泵2倍以上的滤油器​ Wash flow filter or use more than 2 times the oil filter pump 
吸入管道堵塞或通流量过小​ Pipe plug, or through inhalation of the small flow 
清洗管道，选用不小于油泵入口通径的吸入管​ Cleaning pipes, pumps used not less than the entrance diameter of the suction pipe 
油粘度过高或高低​ Oil viscosity too high or high and low 
选用推荐粘度工作油​ Recommended viscosity oil selected work 
压力​ Pressure 
生不​ Health is not 
上去​ Up 
1、油泵不上油或流量不足​ 1, no oil pump or flow less than 
同前述排除方法​ Exclusion method with the above 
2、溢流阀调整压力太低或出现故障​ 2, the pressure relief valve adjustment is too low or failure 
重新调试溢流阀压力或修复溢流阀​ Re-commissioning or repair of pressure relief valve pressure relief valve 
3、系统中有泄露​ 3, the system has leaked 
坚持系统、修补泄露点​ Adhere to the system, repair leak point 
4、由于油泵长时间工作振动，使泵盖螺钉松动​ 4, due to pump vibration of long working hours, the pump cover screw loose 
适当拧金螺钉​ Appropriate gold screws screwed 
5、吸入管道漏气​ 5, inhaling pipe leakage 
检查各连接处，并予以密封、紧固​ Check all joints, and be sealed, fastening 
6、吸油不充分​ 6, oil is not sufficient 
同前述排除方法​ Exclusion method with the above 
过度​ Over 
发热​ Fever 
1、油温过高​ 1, high oil temperature 
改善油箱散热条件或增设冷却器油温控制在推荐正常工作油温范围内​ To improve the fuel tank thermal conditions or additional cooler oil temperature control oil temperature in the recommended range of normal 
2、油粘度太低，内泻过大​ 2, the oil viscosity is too low, excessive diarrhea within 
选用推荐粘度工作油​ Recommended oil viscosity selected work 
3、工作压力高高​ 3, high work pressure 
降压至额定油箱液面以下​ The following step-down to the nominal fuel tank liquid level 
4、回油口直接接到油泵入口​ 4, back to the oil port directly to the pump entrance 
回油口接至油箱液面以下​ Back to the oil port connected to the fuel tank below the liquid level 
振动​ Vibration 
过大​ Too large 
1、泵轴与电机轴不同心​ 1, shaft and motor shaft misalignment 
重新安装达到说明书要求精度​ Meet the specification requirements to re-install precision 
2、安装螺钉松动​ 2, mounting screws loose 
拧紧螺钉​ Tighten the screws 
3、转速或压力过高​ 3, speed or pressure too high 
调至许用范围以内​ Adjusted to be within permissible 
4、吸入管道漏气​ 4, inhalation pipeline leak 
检查管道各连接处，并予以密封、紧固​ Check all pipe joints and to seal, fastening 
5、吸油不充分​ 5, oil is not sufficient 
同前述排除方法​ Exclusion method with the above 
6、油液中有气泡​ 6, there are bubbles of oil 
补充油液或采取结构措施把回油口浸入油面以下​ Add oil or to take structural measures to return oil port immersion oil surface the following 

1、吸入管道漏气​ 1, inhalation of leaking pipes 
检查管道各连接处，并予以密封、紧固​ Check all pipe joints and to seal, fastening 

2、吸油不充分​ 2, oil is not sufficient 
同前述排除方法​ Exclusion method with the above 

3、泵轴和原动机轴不同心​ 3, shaft and prime mover shaft misalignment 
重新安装达到说明书要求精确​ Reinstall meet the specification requirements accurately 

4、油中有气泡​ 4, oil bubbles 
补充油液或采取结构措施把回油口浸入油面以下​ Add oil or to take structural measures to return oil port immersion oil surface the following 

5、泵转速过高​ 5, pump speed is too high 
选用推荐转速范围​ Recommended speed range selection 

6、泵压力过高​ 6, pump pressure too high 
降压至额定压力以下​ The following step-down to the rated pressure 

7、轴密封处漏气​ 7, shaft seals leak 
更换油封​ Replacement seals 
​​



​


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## muleman RIP

I would try pounding the phone numbers on that site. They are the oldest tractor company in China and somebody should be able to set you on the right path. If you could not smell diesel in the crankcase oil it is most likely a pump leak causing the oilpan to flood which led to the runaway.


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## Cowboy

I also did a search on the engine & came up with that its the same engine as used in some Jinma tractors & i can by a complete engine out of Texas ready to install for under 3 grand , Not that i would need to it just made me feel a little better about finding parts in the US . 

http://www.affordabletractorsalesco...?cid=1540&catid=106&picid=1674&category=Parts Center&sub_category=Engine TY395&scid=115&PHPSESSID=d97135d724272d201e40f13619cd0e42


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## Dargo

Cowboy said:


> I also did a search on the engine & came up with that its the same engine as used in some Jinma tractors & i can by a complete engine out of Texas ready to install for under 3 grand , Not that i would need to it just made me feel a little better about finding parts in the US .
> 
> http://www.affordabletractorsalesco...?cid=1540&catid=106&picid=1674&category=Parts Center&sub_category=Engine TY395&scid=115&PHPSESSID=d97135d724272d201e40f13619cd0e42



You can probably get it less if need be.  That's Tommy's place.  A few years ago I was looking to possibly buy a cheaper 80ish hp tractor to leave at some property I have about 20 miles up the road.  Tommy mostly sells Foton tractors, which is the exact same Rural King sells.  The difference is that Rural King moves a heck of a lot more iron than Tommy.

I don't recall the exact numbers, but close.  I think Tommy wanted pretty dang close to 30k for a 82 hp Foton with a Perkins knock-off, cab, A/C, 4X4 and FEL.  Rural King had the absolute exact same machine on "closeout" (even with the exact same loader) for $19,995.  Tommy explained that I wouldn't get the same service from Rural King as I'd get from him as to why the difference in price.  I'd agree if I didn't live over a thousand miles from him.  It eluded him that his service, as good as it may be, meant nothing to me.  Both he and that Ken Sweet guy (sells tractors and implements on that other place) got rather rude with me when I questioned their price after I'd already had a price considerably lower elsewhere.

Tommy is getting up into the range of the 2nd tier tractor prices on his Fotons.  I can't see anyone spending the same money on a Foton as on a Mahindra or Kioti or one of those re-badged Kiotis.   The Chinese tractors sell on price alone.  I learned that when I was looking at them.  Most sellers bluntly told me that I'd need to turn a wrench if I wanted to save the cash and buy Chinese.  That being the case, I'd have to think that there are all sorts of places where you can buy Chinese parts.  I don't know about Jinma, but Rural King alone has put a butt load of Fotons out in the fields in this part of the country.  And, being that most owners have read up on what they need to keep an eye on, I haven't heard too many complaints.  Good luck to ya.  I'd keep shopping on parts prices.


----------



## Cowboy

Dargo said:


> You can probably get it less if need be. That's Tommy's place. A few years ago I was looking to possibly buy a cheaper 80ish hp tractor to leave at some property I have about 20 miles up the road. Tommy mostly sells Foton tractors, which is the exact same Rural King sells. The difference is that Rural King moves a heck of a lot more iron than Tommy.
> 
> I don't recall the exact numbers, but close. I think Tommy wanted pretty dang close to 30k for a 82 hp Foton with a Perkins knock-off, cab, A/C, 4X4 and FEL. Rural King had the absolute exact same machine on "closeout" (even with the exact same loader) for $19,995. Tommy explained that I wouldn't get the same service from Rural King as I'd get from him as to why the difference in price. I'd agree if I didn't live over a thousand miles from him. It eluded him that his service, as good as it may be, meant nothing to me. Both he and that Ken Sweet guy (sells tractors and implements on that other place) got rather rude with me when I questioned their price after I'd already had a price considerably lower elsewhere.
> 
> Tommy is getting up into the range of the 2nd tier tractor prices on his Fotons. I can't see anyone spending the same money on a Foton as on a Mahindra or Kioti or one of those re-badged Kiotis.  The Chinese tractors sell on price alone. I learned that when I was looking at them. Most sellers bluntly told me that I'd need to turn a wrench if I wanted to save the cash and buy Chinese. That being the case, I'd have to think that there are all sorts of places where you can buy Chinese parts. I don't know about Jinma, but Rural King alone has put a butt load of Fotons out in the fields in this part of the country. And, being that most owners have read up on what they need to keep an eye on, I haven't heard too many complaints. Good luck to ya. I'd keep shopping on parts prices.


 

 Good to know Dargo thanks , much appreciated . Nope dealers or service aint worth squat to me as long as I can find the parts cuz I work real cheap  . 

   There aint much I cant do as long as I know where to start , Bad thing is parts of the high dollar name brand tractors are more then likelly the same damn thing as mine , but the dealers like to keep it a secret . It just takes awhile to sort through the bs is all , Worst case is my parts have to travel a lot farther away but I aint got nothin but time as long as I at least got one tractor runnin .  

 Yep Bill I,ll do some phone callin as I have a few more lines on some things now , as well as I ran accross a Chinese tractor forum that 3 different guys had exactlly the same problem with their Jinma,s that has exactlly the same setup . 

  Bad thing as with most forums , People just join them when they have a problem , as soon as they get the help they need they dont even post back to say thanks or if its fixed , just disapear until the next time . I like to follow up on mine so it might help others . But thats just how us arrogant assholes are


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## Cowboy

I thought I better update this again . I got my other tractor going & got most of my mowing done so I,m more able to focus on this tractor . 

  I had to go back & rethink exactlly what took place when the problem started before the engine rpm,s went way to high on its own . I had allready moved a bunch of rock with the loader & I had noticed the response was getting a bit slow before I started back dragging with the bucket , I put a lot of downward preasure on the loader bucket & obviouslly just blew the damn seal , allthough I,ve done it on other tractors for years without any problem . 

 I was just guessing it was fuel causing it to run away but have since found out any kind of raise in the crankcase can cause that . I checked the fuel again & its still damn near full so noway it pumped 2 gallons or better in the crankcase & even if it did it woulda had to go through the injectors & would have took a long time for that much . 

 I also found theres 2 different dipsticks for the gear oil , the one one the main case didn,t appear low at all which is another reason I was thinking it was fuel . but The vent on the rear above the PTO is also a dipstick that comes out after finally looking at the parts manual & its at least a gallon or so to low . So I,m 100% sure it is the seal on the hydraulic pump as its the only way it could get into the crankcase . 

  I just have to see if I can find a seal kit , but worst case scenerio I can buy a brandnew pump for less then 200 bucks , If need be thats the route I,ll go . Then Drain everything & change all filters & fluid which I probablly should have done when I bought the darn thing , Other then taking the guys word he had allready done it . 

  So thats where I,m at , looks like I lucked out this time & it wont be near as expensive as I feared . I,ll update again when something changes or I get it fixed , but many thanks to all for the help .


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## Dargo

I'm sorry that I no longer have the links to the Chinese tractor sites (I deleted them when I opted not to buy one), but I am relatively certain that besides draining and flushing all fluids a few times and replacing all the filters when you first get them, there were a dozen or so different seals that the guys 'in the know' highly recommended changing out to higher quality seals.  You may have just found one of them.

The guys who take the time to do all these things when they first get a brand new Chinese tractor (I thought the manufacturer did these things, but I suppose it's common knowledge that certain Chinese manufacturers do not) seem to be rather content with their tractors and seem to get great service out of them.  They like to say that half of the tractor was manufactured in China and that they did all the finish work when they bought one.  You may want to Google and browse some of those sites.  Most things they said were "required" just took time; not a lot of money.  Good luck to ya!


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## Cowboy

Dargo said:


> I'm sorry that I no longer have the links to the Chinese tractor sites (I deleted them when I opted not to buy one), but I am relatively certain that besides draining and flushing all fluids a few times and replacing all the filters when you first get them, there were a dozen or so different seals that the guys 'in the know' highly recommended changing out to higher quality seals. You may have just found one of them.
> 
> The guys who take the time to do all these things when they first get a brand new Chinese tractor (I thought the manufacturer did these things, but I suppose it's common knowledge that certain Chinese manufacturers do not) seem to be rather content with their tractors and seem to get great service out of them. They like to say that half of the tractor was manufactured in China and that they did all the finish work when they bought one. You may want to Google and browse some of those sites. Most things they said were "required" just took time; not a lot of money. Good luck to ya!


 NP & thanks Dargo , I apreciate the input . Actually I just joined the chinese tractor association yesterday but I,m waiting for approval 

http://www.ctoa.net/modules/newbb/

 I found that by searching ( runaway diesel ) & did quite a bit of reading on it . I,m hoping to locate any parts I might need there as theres also several dealers Including Tommy that post there quite a bit But then again I might not get approved either   Thanks again .


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## fogtender

Cowboy said:


> I thought I better update this again . I got my other tractor going & got most of my mowing done so I,m more able to focus on this tractor .
> 
> I had to go back & rethink exactlly what took place when the problem started before the engine rpm,s went way to high on its own . I had allready moved a bunch of rock with the loader & I had noticed the response was getting a bit slow before I started back dragging with the bucket , I put a lot of downward preasure on the loader bucket & obviouslly just blew the damn seal , allthough I,ve done it on other tractors for years without any problem .
> 
> I was just guessing it was fuel causing it to run away but have since found out any kind of raise in the crankcase can cause that . I checked the fuel again & its still damn near full so noway it pumped 2 gallons or better in the crankcase & even if it did it woulda had to go through the injectors & would have took a long time for that much .
> 
> I also found theres 2 different dipsticks for the gear oil , the one one the main case didn,t appear low at all which is another reason I was thinking it was fuel . but The vent on the rear above the PTO is also a dipstick that comes out after finally looking at the parts manual & its at least a gallon or so to low . So I,m 100% sure it is the seal on the hydraulic pump as its the only way it could get into the crankcase .
> 
> I just have to see if I can find a seal kit , but worst case scenerio I can buy a brandnew pump for less then 200 bucks , If need be thats the route I,ll go . Then Drain everything & change all filters & fluid which I probablly should have done when I bought the darn thing , Other then taking the guys word he had allready done it .
> 
> So thats where I,m at , looks like I lucked out this time & it wont be near as expensive as I feared . I,ll update again when something changes or I get it fixed , but many thanks to all for the help .


 
Cool, sounds like you have a good insite on what caused the runaway.  If you replace the seal to the Hydraulic pump, you can put a better one in it than what was factory if it is Chinese.  Buying a new pump to replace one that works well is a waste of money unless you can't get a seal for it.

Seal should cost about $20.00 bucks tops, more like five or so, but you can get a double lipped one that may serve you a tad better.  

If you pull the pump off, you can take it to a hydraulic repair company and maybe they can test it to ensure it is a blown seal, and replace it if you aren't able to do so.  Most seals aren't part of the High pressure side in the pumps, they do have a slight oil pressure behind them, but there is a drain to back to the intake side so they don't blow out the seal.

Another issue is that the Relief Pressure on the pump or valve body may be set higher than it is suppose to (was it new or used, don't remember if you posted that).  Sometime people jack the pressures up to get the system to work faster, which relsults in system failures like you discribed...

Good luck!


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## Cowboy

fogtender said:


> Cool, sounds like you have a good insite on what caused the runaway. If you replace the seal to the Hydraulic pump, you can put a better one in it than what was factory if it is Chinese. Buying a new pump to replace one that works well is a waste of money unless you can't get a seal for it.
> 
> Seal should cost about $20.00 bucks tops, more like five or so, but you can get a double lipped one that may serve you a tad better.
> 
> If you pull the pump off, you can take it to a hydraulic repair company and maybe they can test it to ensure it is a blown seal, and replace it if you aren't able to do so. Most seals aren't part of the High pressure side in the pumps, they do have a slight oil pressure behind them, but there is a drain to back to the intake side so they don't blow out the seal.
> 
> Another issue is that the Relief Pressure on the pump or valve body may be set higher than it is suppose to (was it new or used, don't remember if you posted that). Sometime people jack the pressures up to get the system to work faster, which relsults in system failures like you discribed...
> 
> Good luck!


 
Thanks fogtender , It was almost new when I got it less then 40 hours . But now I,m thinking it might have allready had a few issues & the pump might have taken some abuse , Thats why I,m just going to get a new one but I will get the seal kits for the old one & if it looks ok when I take it apart I,ll use it & save the new for a spare . 


  I,ve also found out that a popular problem for the seal blowing is due to the cheap chinese quick disconnects , according to a few of the dealer mechanics I,ve spoken to . So I will be replacing those with new ones , Mainlly because I allready have several sets  . 

 I,m also draining & flushing all of the rest of the fluids because most likelly it still has the junk chinese fluids in it . Something I should have done when I bought the damn thing . 

 I still haven,t pulled the pump , but will be as soon as all my parts & new filters show up . I,ve been busy using my other one since I got it back up running & it screwed up on me last night AGAIN so I have both tractors down again & I have 30 more ton of rock coming tommorow as well as several loads of clay to line my pond with . 

 I,ll update this when I get it going , but I,ll be starting a new thread on my new problem & its really got me puzzled . Thanks again


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## Cowboy

I finally pulled the pump & was glad to see that the seal in fact has blown see first 2 pics . My parts will hopefully be here today & hopefully I will be back up & running within the next day or so . I,ll update with the good news I hope .


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## fogtender

Cowboy said:


> I finally pulled the pump & was glad to see that the seal in fact has blown see first 2 pics . My parts will hopefully be here today & hopefully I will be back up & running within the next day or so . I,ll update with the good news I hope .


 
For what it is worth, the seal isn't a pressure seal, that is suppose to be drained back into the intake side of the pump, so you may have damage in the pump itself, so pulling it apart may be in order for a closer inspection.

There may be some scoring/cracks on the interal parts that will cause a high pressure leak to the low pressure side as well.

Good luck!


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## Cowboy

fogtender said:


> For what it is worth, the seal isn't a pressure seal, that is suppose to be drained back into the intake side of the pump, so you may have damage in the pump itself, so pulling it apart may be in order for a closer inspection.
> 
> There may be some scoring/cracks on the interal parts that will cause a high pressure leak to the low pressure side as well.
> 
> Good luck!


 

  So your saying that seal being screwed up couldn,t cause hydraulic fluid to leak into the crankcase fogtender ? I,m not talking about a small leak either , probablly 3 gallons or so in a matter of a few minutes . 

   I know the pic dont show it very good but the lip of the seal is pushed out in that one area & looks to me like it must have taken some perty high preasure to cause that . 

  I appreciate your input because I want to make damn sure I have found & corrected any problem that might have caused this . My parts should be here today . I also took apart the air intake as much as I could & cleaned all of the oil out of it & found some metal shavings in there as well . But as much metal I found in the hydraulic screen that dont surprise me to much , I,m told thats typical coming from the chinese factory 

  I,ll tear the pump apart & look for other damage & report back . Thanks


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## muleman RIP

I would think Foggy has called it right. The high pressure circuit was leaking to the suction side of the pump hence the loss of hydraulic power and the seal blowing out. That seal on the input shaft of the pump is most likely to keep crankcase oil from entering the pump.


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## Cowboy

muleman said:


> I would think Foggy has called it right. The high pressure circuit was leaking to the suction side of the pump hence the loss of hydraulic power and the seal blowing out. That seal on the input shaft of the pump is most likely to keep crankcase oil from entering the pump.


 
  Thanks Bill , Ill tear into the pump & have a look then . I,ll post some pics afterbit .


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## Cowboy

OK I tore the pump apart & all of the aluminum & hard parts look fine , The only thing that I can see that could have caused the problem is where the o ring is missing a piece in pics 2 & 5 which seems to have disintegrated inside of the front cover . 

I,m guessing that was enough to cause the outer seal to blow . What could have caused the oring to do that though I still have no clue . Could that caused what you both have mentioned for that much fluid to leak into the crankcase & any ideas of what caused the failure ?  . Thanks


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## fogtender

Well either it was abused by smacking stuff with the hydraulic accessories which would give some pretty hard shots to the system and is transmitted all the way to the pump, or the bypass relief valve is set too high and the excess pressure just blew it out... But that would do it!


See how good your are!


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## Cowboy

fogtender said:


> Well either it was abused by smacking stuff with the hydraulic accessories which would give some pretty hard shots to the system and is transmitted all the way to the pump, or the bypass relief valve is set too high and the excess pressure just blew it out... But that would do it!
> 
> 
> See how good your are!


 Thanks again fogtender , Much appreciated  . When you say bypass releif valve are you talking about the one on the loader controls ? 

  That is the only place I can find that looks to have any type of adjustment on it . I,m also wondering if the guy I bought it from might have messed with that setting . I haven,t pulled the screw cover off yet , but I,m thinking about maybe trying to turn the preasure back down just a bit just to be safe , Then turning it back up as needed when I get it back together after I get all of the air out of the system . I,m assuming turning the adjustment screw counter clockwise would turn down the preasure & turning it clockwise would increase the preasure , does that sound correct ? 

  I dont have the manual for this Koyker 165 loader but Its much like the koyker 155 loader on my other tractor & I may be able to find the manual for it I,m not sure it would have the proper settings in it . I,ve been told I would need to have a hydraulic preasure guage to set it properlly but I dont know where to get one or how I would even check the settings correctlly . 

  My parts did not come yesterday so I,m hoping for today , Thanks again


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## muleman RIP

You need to find out what the system pressure is supposed to be maxxed out at. The loader is independent of that. You may have to take a line off and put a T with a cap on one port and a gauge on the other. Whatever the spec is I would set the relief at least 100 psi below max to prevent this from happening again. A good hydraulics shop should be able to help you out with a gauge and T.


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## Cowboy

muleman said:


> You need to find out what the system pressure is supposed to be maxxed out at. The loader is independent of that. You may have to take a line off and put a T with a cap on one port and a gauge on the other. Whatever the spec is I would set the relief at least 100 psi below max to prevent this from happening again. A good hydraulics shop should be able to help you out with a gauge and T.


   Thanks Bill , I,ll have to do some more looking , so far I cant find anywhere on the tractor that has any type of valves or settings on the hydraulics , other then the loader itself . 


  OH CRAP ! Scratch that    Duh the sumbitch has got a set of rear remotes I aint even looked at those yet , because I aint got anything I would need them for yet . But I cant imagine the other owner did either , but I better check anyway . 

  Thats the problem having 2 imported tractors tore down at the same time , I spend most of the time with my head up my butt


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## muleman RIP

If you have rear remotes you can plumb a gauge onto one of them.


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## Cowboy

muleman said:


> If you have rear remotes you can plumb a gauge onto one of them.


 Gotcha Bill , I,ll look into that . thanks


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## Cowboy

Well I got the gears & shaft switched in the new pump so it would turn the right direction . Got it installed , everything back to gether & refilled . I ran it for short intervals to recheck levels or leaks & listen for unusual engine noises , Its been down so long now I dont even remember WTF normal is 

All appears good so far but haven,t really pushed it much . I had one new disconnect leaking at a fitting that is a sumbitch to get to , While trying to tighten it with my 2 biggest wrenches 1 wrench slipped off & I took half my fuckin right thumb off plum to the bone  . 

After cleaning it with whiskey , flushing with peroxide & covering it with antibacterial ointment , A few butterfly bandages ta hold it back together & liquid skin ta seal it back up , its damn near back to new again this morning , allthough twice as big as ussual  . Biggest thing is I got the mess cleaned up before my wife got home except for my new rubber mats 

Worst thing is the damn fittings still leaking & I aint going to feel like trying to tighten it anymore for a few days , so I recon my test run & mowing will have to wait a few days  I,ll update when I know more .


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## muleman RIP

Ouch on that! I had to get my neighbor down to help me get the one extendahoe hose off my backhoe. Case makes them suckers way tight at the factory. We ended up with pipes on each wrench to break them loose.


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## Cowboy

muleman said:


> Ouch on that! I had to get my neighbor down to help me get the one extendahoe hose off my backhoe. Case makes them suckers way tight at the factory. We ended up with pipes on each wrench to break them loose.


 
 Yep , I was surprised I was able to get all 3 QD,s loose without any help But I,m used to having to do things by myself . Just pisses me off its even leaking , I used thread sealer & teflon tape & thought I had it plenty tight , Its just in an awkward location that I have to try to tight it from underneath so I,m not able to use any kind of cheater bars . 

  My farmer neighbor would give me a hand but he,s been busy trying to get the rest of his soybeans in so I hate bothering him . I might see if he,s around tommorow , I sure need to get some mowing done if it is fixed


----------



## muleman RIP

Don't forget to check the system relief pressure or it might take out the new pump.


----------



## Cowboy

muleman said:


> Don't forget to check the system relief pressure or it might take out the new pump.


 
  Yep , I have no real clue how to do that or what guage I would need & I am having no luck finding anyone that knows to come out & check it for me . The tractor shops I,ve talked to said I would have to bring it to them & that aint going to happen . Any Ideas ? because I,m perty much at a loss right now, thanks


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## pixie

Glad things are looking up ! Hope you heal up fast.

You can get a pressure guage at Surplus center or maybe even an auto parts store. SurplusC was $12. 
Plumb it in to the output line (Ts) and read it when that line is in use. Relief should occur at the end of cylinder travel ?? 

I recently put 2 in my Muskeg but can't see one of them when the circuit's in use ...silly me.


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## Cowboy

pixie said:


> Glad things are looking up ! Hope you heal up fast.
> 
> You can get a pressure guage at Surplus center or maybe even an auto parts store. SurplusC was $12.
> Plumb it in to the output line (Ts) and read it when that line is in use. Relief should occur at the end of cylinder travel ??
> 
> I recently put 2 in my Muskeg but can't see one of them when the circuit's in use ...silly me.


 

  Thanks pixie Much apreciated , that sounds simple enough I,ll look into it


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## Snowtrac Nome

Cowboy said:


> Thanks pixie Much apreciated , that sounds simple enough I,ll look into it


 you need a gauge that will read about 3000 psi and plumb in a few t conections with a jic port where you will hook up the gauge and cap it when in use than have a hose guy make you a 3 foot whip with a female jic on it so you can uncap and tap in to different places to test for pressure  a cool way to do this is with qd fittings but they are kind of expensive.


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## Cowboy

dds said:


> you need a gauge that will read about 3000 psi and plumb in a few t conections with a jic port where you will hook up the gauge and cap it when in use than have a hose guy make you a 3 foot whip with a female jic on it so you can uncap and tap in to different places to test for pressure a cool way to do this is with qd fittings but they are kind of expensive.


 

  Good to know Don , I have rear duel remotes could I not just plug into one of those quick disconnects ? Or would I have to tap into the loader hydraulics , Thats where there seems to be a valve that could be adjusted , I just want to make sure the previous owner didn,t set it to high . 

  Its got about 140 hours on it & I put 100 of them on it & this was my first problem . Thanks


----------



## Snowtrac Nome

i'm not familiar with your loader most pumps will have an internal relief valve with a pistion and spring in it and i would expect your pressure to run about 1800 to 2500 psi but you don't want to exceed what the pump is intended to do or you could split the housing wide open. if you hook up to your supply hose it should work for you and to check relief pressure will drop a but when the cylinder moves and will spike a bit as the cylinder stops and settle back at the regulated pressure. the reason for taps through the system is later on if you have a problem it will simplify trouble shooting


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## muleman RIP

You should be able to just buy a male end that fits your rear remotes. Are they American standard? Does your neighbor have an old hose from a plow or disc that you could try in it? Then all you would need would be a gage and whatever fitting to make it fit the hose.


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## HarryG

Cowboy,
Thats a Yangdong engine on a China unit right? I have the same engine and a Koyker FEL too. I'm betting the hydro pump front seal blew and is pumping hydro fluid into the crankcase and the overfilled oil is getting sucked/pushed into the cylinders. This has happened on a several units.
Check the oil sump for the hydro and rear diff and if its low thats your culprit.


Oops I replied after reading page one and didn't realise you had found the problem.


----------



## Cowboy

dds said:


> i'm not familiar with your loader most pumps will have an internal relief valve with a pistion and spring in it and i would expect your pressure to run about 1800 to 2500 psi but you don't want to exceed what the pump is intended to do or you could split the housing wide open. if you hook up to your supply hose it should work for you and to check relief pressure will drop a but when the cylinder moves and will spike a bit as the cylinder stops and settle back at the regulated pressure. the reason for taps through the system is later on if you have a problem it will simplify trouble shooting


 

  Yep I gotcha Don , I dont think the preasure has been changed but I just want to make sure . 


muleman said:


> You should be able to just buy a male end that fits your rear remotes. Are they American standard? Does your neighbor have an old hose from a plow or disc that you could try in it? Then all you would need would be a gage and whatever fitting to make it fit the hose.


 
  Thats what I was hopin Bill , Yes its american standard & I have a hose with a male disconnect allready & I have all kinds of fittins so I should just need to plum a guage to it sounds like . I,ll round up what I do have & report back . 



HarryG said:


> Cowboy,
> Thats a Yangdong engine on a China unit right? I have the same engine and a Koyker FEL too. I'm betting the hydro pump front seal blew and is pumping hydro fluid into the crankcase and the overfilled oil is getting sucked/pushed into the cylinders. This has happened on a several units.
> Check the oil sump for the hydro and rear diff and if its low thats your culprit.


 
  Yep Harry sounds like the same setup basicly , You are correct the front seal was blown & the cuprit as I posted early on in the thread , I replaced it with a pump that is a bit bigger that this loader actually calls for the way I understand it . I just want to make sure the preasure valve hasn,t been cranked up . Good to know someone here at least has the same motor  . Thanks to all of you once again . First thing I gota do is fix that leak in the fitting to the QD which is a day away till this damn thumb heals up a bit . Then I,ll make sure I have everything straight on how to check & what the preasure should read .


----------



## fogtender

Take and post a photo of the valve control body, there should/may be a relieve valve there for the pressure control if not one built into the pump itself.

Will have a cap over it, and under it will have a allen head looking bolt with a nut on it to lock it down.  If you loosened the lock nut and backed off the allen screw that would lower your working pressure until you can find out what it is set at, for cheap insurance.


----------



## Cowboy

fogtender said:


> Take and post a photo of the valve control body, there should/may be a relieve valve there for the pressure control if not one built into the pump itself.
> 
> Will have a cap over it, and under it will have a allen head looking bolt with a nut on it to lock it down. If you loosened the lock nut and backed off the allen screw that would lower your working pressure until you can find out what it is set at, for cheap insurance.


 

 Thanks again fogtender . Heres a few pics of what I,m guessing are the adjustments on the loader as well as for the remotes . Theres not one on the pump itself that I could see . If you need better pics I can get them  I like the sound of backing it off as I haven,t got a preasure guage yet .


----------



## fogtender

Cowboy said:


> Thanks again fogtender . Heres a few pics of what I,m guessing are the adjustments on the loader as well as for the remotes . Theres not one on the pump itself that I could see . If you need better pics I can get them  I like the sound of backing it off as I haven,t got a pressure Gage yet .


 





I the above photo, the cover over the Allen head adjustment is directly below the rubber boot. Make sure when you take the cover off, you have a wrench on the lock nut below it so you don't try to take them both off at the same time and score the threads..

Once the cover is off, loosen the lock nut with a wrench on it and the bigger nut below that one so you don't pull the relief assembly out and possibly mess up that O-ring. Then after the lock nut is loose, back off the Allen head (May have a screw slot) thread one turn, they put everything back. When you do get a gauge, you can then check it for the right pressure.

But it will lower your pressures until you can get the right pressure set in it. That will at least get you operating at a lower pressure until all is well.


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## Cowboy

Gotcha fogtender , I,ll do that afterbit , Thanks .


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## Cowboy

Well all apears to be fine at this time , I turned down the preasure on the loader valve just to be safe untill I can get a preasure guage to check it properly . I,ve just been running it for short periods of time , each time being longer & just got in from mowing for about an hour & all seems to be ok so far . 

  The engine really still has me a bit concerned , but its running normal temp & the oil preasure is better then ever . It just seems to be knocking a bit more then I remember , but I,m hoping thats just my imagination  . I,ll run it another hour or so then change the oil & filter 1 more time & change it one more time to be certain its flushed good . I,ll report back if anything changes I just wanted to update & thank everyone again for the help & ideas . 

  I,m also looking into buying a Kubota L2500 with loader it has 150 hours on it & quite a few attachments , Ive known about it since before I bought this YTO but it has been help up in divorce procedings & I,m hoping to get a really REALLY good deal on it .


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## fogtender

Cowboy said:


> Well all apears to be fine at this time , I turned down the preasure on the loader valve just to be safe untill I can get a preasure guage to check it properly . I,ve just been running it for short periods of time , each time being longer & just got in from mowing for about an hour & all seems to be ok so far .
> 
> The engine really still has me a bit concerned , but its running normal temp & the oil preasure is better then ever . It just seems to be knocking a bit more then I remember , but I,m hoping thats just my imagination  . I,ll run it another hour or so then change the oil & filter 1 more time & change it one more time to be certain its flushed good . I,ll report back if anything changes I just wanted to update & thank everyone again for the help & ideas .
> 
> I,m also looking into buying a Kubota L2500 with loader it has 150 hours on it & quite a few attachments , Ive known about it since before I bought this YTO but it has been help up in divorce procedings & I,m hoping to get a really REALLY good deal on it .


 
Well if it is any help, when I fly my plane out over open water, the farther out I am from the shore, the more "Funny" noises it makes until I turn around or get to the other side....

Worried about your engine after such an ordeal will keep you on your toes for a bit!


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