# SNOW TRAC WHEELS - help me find parts



## nikos

As a new owner of Snow Trac  from North West Greece in a small town Florina, hello everybody in the Forum.
 Nikolaos Speaking. I bought a Snow Trac  ST4 1503, (1971 year) so i began to rest orate, and i need help and advise. My Snow trac is Running, mechanically is in  good condition. 
This Snow Trac it belong to an Electricity Company here in Greece, until 1980.

Fist the rear wheel is completely damaged, so i need one new, or used but in good condition Trelleborg 600X 100 6 ply (Tire and tube).
I need also 4 boogie wheels Trelleborg 400X 4  6ply  (Tire and Tube). 
Can somebody tell me if where can i find the parts.
If  i don't find anything, the Aero Classic 400X4,1, (for the small ones) and the  Good Year 4,5 X 1,6 NHS 6 ply, or the Alpine 4,5 X16 (For the large Wheel) are the right type of  wheels for the SNOW TRAC.
Next step is to replace the *3 section design  trac* with the large wheel. I need a dimensional drawing pattern- for the crawler tracks.
The elastic belts how many reinforced inserts must have?

regards nicktam


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## JimVT

christer@klovsjo.com is your best bet at http://www.klovsjo.com/snowtrac/


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## Snowtrac Nome

on the rear tires you can use a street tread motorcycle tire the composit wheels are a motor cycle rim with an aluminum slug installed the little tires are aircraft tail wheel sizes good luck nice looking st that one has the ambulance door in the rear


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## Doc

Hi Nikos!  Welcome to our internet off topic forums.

Good pics.  That's a nice looking snow trac you got there.  
Do you get much snow?
Enjoy and post often.


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## Lyndon

HI: Welcome to the Forum. Nice ST4! No one even noticed that it's the *AMBULANCE MODEL!*  CHRISTER, ON THE BIG TIRE AND RIM. You might want to tighten(Tension) that track up a bit or it will de-track. I like the Orange paint too.


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## Snowtrac Nome

Lyndon said:


> HI: Welcome to the Forum. Nice ST4! No one even noticed that it's the *AMBULANCE MODEL!* CHRISTER, ON THE BIG TIRE AND RIM. You might want to tighten(Tension) that track up a bit or it will de-track. I like the Orange paint too.


 your wrong lyndon look at my post


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## nikos

Doc, Greece  is not  only for summer vocation, and fun - dancing in the islands.
In my place the snow fault  in the mountains  on December, until April.
We have 2 center Ski,and  also names for the snow, such as Dry, sugar, salt, hard, cold. The mountains round the area are 2100 m - 2450 meter high.
The temperature in the Winter in Florina city, gets - 5 to -20 C.
Doc the Winter, is part of our life's, i like to feel to see, the  changes in every season, the summer, the spring,  but the ST4 is the right transform  to get saved (Ambulance)  inside the winter. 
I will sent some pics from the  winter in my place ok.


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## JimVT

I noticed the lack of vents in the engine hood .Fist one I've seen .
Jim


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## Snowtrac Nome

good point where is the air comming from to cool the engine


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## nikos

dds and  JimVT Look at the pic. The vents for engine hood for the air to cool the machine, are in the front, in the same place as the others ST4.
 The last  pics because the sun light, (no shadows)  we can,t see the shapes with the   different forms of the vents.
The designer  has change the way  of travel air from the  vents.
The way of the air is oposit, in front the windows. 
Here is the pic with the machine and the vents from inside.
Any question?


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## Ice Queen

Have you repainted the snowtrac in orange or was that how you bought it?  I suspect its original colour would have been red.


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## nikos

Ice Qeen you are right. The original color for the ST4 is  RED ok.
The orange was  the color for the operate Recognative vehicles in the Electricity company here in Greece. The previous owner had refress the ST4 with the "original " color of the company. Probably he did not know the international *simiotic RED* color of ST4, and in his mind the orange was the "original".
For me  I prefer  the RED with the white collor in the top with the graffics ok
But in the forum i did not  see any orange  ST4. 
Only the Tuckers and some 1404 IMP. That makes my ST4 unique.
This hapent because  the simiotic colors (RED or ORANGE) have deferents meaning in some countries. Example the White color  in Japan has other meaning than  in Europe, or U.S.
And also there were so many operative ST4 in many countries ( England, France, Italy, etc ) without the original red color.


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## nikos

Guys Thanks for the informations. I found the small boogies  from an Italian Aircraft  Industry. *Now i ll try to find the large one*.
First lay out the belts and i try to  change- replace  the track belt. 
 I think the big problem  is there,  with the 480 holes per side, and *also how many reinforced inserts  must have the  elastic belt*
I send  Pics to see some others differences (doors - instruments , lock case e.t.c).
The glass of the Window is in the floor, because the case infront of the door was broken and the  door open from inside (open Window).


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## JimVT

I noticed you still have the gas heater. Most of us have scrapped them.
Jim


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## nikos

in this pic we can see the rear flat tire in ST4. The previous owner put on a motorcicle Wheel (no insert and ply reinforced) and thats why the tire was completly damaged.
Can someone tell me about where can i find original Trelleborg 600X100 ?

OR informations How it works (the size between tire- rim)  in 

a)  the Alpine Guide  4,5 X16  6 PLY
b) Goodyear    4,5 X16 NHS     6 PLY
c) Continental T9 SIZE 4.00 -16  AS Front.

Are these types  of tires right for the ST4 ? Any address and post?

what about the composit wheel, any informations ?
*
Guys in U.S.A and Europe do you Know anything about the GREEN REVOLUTION from GREECE TECHNOLOGIE called   DEFKALION?
Maybe my ST4  will be the first ST4 with this technology.
Hydrogen + Nicelium. NO GAS ANYMORE.
http://www.defkalion-energy.com/*


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## Snowtrac Nome

to the best of my knowlage none of the 6 bolt wheels were composite you are better off with the steel wheels


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## snowtrac jim

hi Nikos i have st4/1575.had no look finding correct tires.but have fitted two tires at the back. off BMW space saver spare wheel.continental 115/90/16. these are only single ply.but run high psi.cheep at scrap yards maybe better hard foam filled.most of weight is on the front wheels.i fitted puncher proof mobility scooter tires also cheep second hand.ps Iam in England.


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## nikos

Hi Jim :Great idea
10 points for Englandreally !!!!!!!!! for your suggestion.You are great on. 
Look what i find in my garage A BMW continental 115/90/16  Now i have to buy another one for the other rear  side, and then i replace the original Trelleborg. Olny to have a back up, if something happent in the Front wheels.
Next step  is to foam fill both of the 115/90  continentnal tires.
Thanks again JIM. Your opinion was so appreciable
Jim, if you pleased sent me a pic of  yours small boogie tires, (to see the type scooter foam fill tires). I have a close relation with the scooters as you can see.
Scootermania.


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## JimVT

What BMW is that wheel out of? It looks like it may be a good  one to modify  to use on my snowtrac.   
I am not sure what pictures you want.
Jim


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## nikos

Jim VT sorry for the misunderstanding, i ask *SnowTracJIM* from England to send me a pic of his Army ST4 (with the boogie scooter foam fill Wheels). If you read the threads below, you can see the facts. Also the congratulations  are for everybody here in this Forum, because the level of the  Knowledge and the experience that we share out, is the basic cause of this interactive approach, for the progress - Restoration and presentation of the projects  in Snow cats. 

But Jim VT the BMW foam fill  Wheel is a very good solution, because you can find this product - TIRES everywhere, in any country with BMW cars. I think this tire has 3 ply, and it's run in high speed. Thats why i ask Snowtrack JIM to sent pictures to see the total instalation in his Army ST4 in England.


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## snowtrac jim

HI NIKOS hope these are of use.Iam not very good with computa only got one at beginning of year.400x4 tires are off disabilaty electric scooter.the pic of rims are st/4 and BMW.I will get size of stud paten for Jim vt tomorow.think early snow tracs have 5 studs on wheel.


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## nikos

Hi guys. After a couple a days  in silense (Watching- Searching - Learning- wondering in F.F) here i am again. The fist snow in the mountain. So we better hurry.

*LYNDON* ... you are right. Look what  had happend  when i deside to drιve move ahead the ST4 in the garage. 
After a few minutes we put the wheels inside the drivers, and this time with reverse  the ST4  arrived in the garage.


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## Snowtrac Nome

what a place to work i'm in a comercial shop building and it's not as big as thjat place


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## nikos

dds this Shop building it  is a  place close to the National  highway 5th Km Greece to Former Yugoslavia, and it belogs to a close friend of mine. Its not only a vehicle workshop -  servise auto, but also a place for Washing cars, for spare parts warehouse, reprensative car factory, tires, etc.
In the building in which i had parked  the ST4 its was  a warehouse for tructors, farmer vagons, and smal trucks.

The operation its just began, tires, mechanical parts, Lay out the belts.


Here i am Guys.  Nikos in my workshop measuring the holes in 3 schematic belts. Lets Rock n Roll,  Good Luck, and hope God on our side.


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## Snowtrac Nome

puting the tracks on in the air will be hard when you go to put then on uou will want tto be sitting in the tracks than you will want to pull th etop track over to the drive sproket use the starter motor to turn the drive sproket to pull th etracks together than bolt them up it's also how i break them apart also you bear a strong likeness to one of our local preachers good luck


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## nikos

After a couple of days, in this small -scale  restoration Look what i found
The Wild* RED *spirit of mine ST4
Hiddened  -covered in a mix of  mechanicall oils, dirt, and whatever you can imagine.

In a paraphase from the film *Cristine*

It was born in red color
its seductive
it corrupts you
its  irresistible
its pure
Its ST4.
A 1971 WV hidden with dirt and oil from the previous owners.........
The body and soul is singing........ 

 As  I am waiting the varriator Belt to be replaced and some gaskets,i am trying  to rebuilt the floor - inside and under the frame (probably to found any rust - priming- painting etc).


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## snowtrac jim

odd coincidence my little girls middle name is christine met her mom restoring christine replica.now sadly gone to a museum in belgium: sad: photos taken day she was sold


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## muleman RIP

Cute baby and a beautiful 57 Plymouth! Quite a car in it's day. I recognized the bush button transmission buttons before I even saw the car.


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## snowtrac jim

well spotted muleman. 57 made to look like a 58 . rear view mirror the give away.she was lovely to drive propper car .may be one day


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## nikos

What a car 
But SnowtracJIM what a gorgeous lady that you hold in your hand. 
Probably a baby that was born from the flame of this Plymouth.
Nice try The best wishes.
In her wedding day, this is the right think, this car (plymouth) must escore the groom- bride. Christine strawberry girl:


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## snowtrac jim

thank you for the compliments Amelie [ after the french film ] is now a bit biger and the most fun little person to be with.


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## snowtrac jim

hi nikos re:track ajustment front ones are fore drive chains in engine bay .tracks ajust on rear wheels. hope this helps [ get this thred back on to snow trac ]


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## Snowtrac Nome

pics oof the little girl remindes of mine now off in the army working on black hawks but would drive my m37 wth me in parades and shows with me


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## nikos

As i am in process to belting the tracs in the next days pics   132 & 133.
 I need your opinions.
 Can someone  tell me, about the level that takes the axle sprocket, in the process when you have to start tension the Belts.
I have a dissagreement with my friend, and i need your opinion and some pics if it is posible
In my ST4 there are different levels in the right - left axle Sprockets.pics 44 1  & 44


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## snowtrac jim

hi nikos ajusters in your pics are for the drive chains in the engine bay.


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## nikos

**
Does anyone Knew HOW Dangerous ( Fuel - tank, etc ), or not,  is to Worm the cabin with this German gadget.
Any suggestion, how to worm the  place, example  with some *other* extra electric machine.
The two indents from the VW is still working, but i m thinking smthing  more clean, about the hot air, probably with the smells-faints of the  exhaust pipes in front the machine


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## Snowtrac Nome

if your j box heaters are working right a fuel burning heater is un necessary irun mine in a t-shirt at -20 f


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## 300 H and H

It would be nice if you stop and shut down the engine. That is the only time I wuold want one. But from what I have read, those gasoline heaters were more trouble than they were worth in terms of safety as well as reliabilty. There was a pic of an ST with an LP heater with a fan set in the rear corner of the cab. The LP bottle was out side on the racks.. Just need to cut a hole in the floor and put in a hinged door. A second battery for the heater and you could ice fish, from the cab....After you back over your hole.

Regards, Kirk


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## nikos

Here is the gasoline Heater.
Some problems in the forum site, so thats why  i coyldnt add and send pic


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## nikos

I am not a Junky in Restoration, but i had to change the wooden floor,  and refresh the color  from the rust in the chassis.
RED color or smthing else, Red color or Black,


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## snowtrac59

Jag har trelleborg 600x10 orginalhjul till Snow-trac, dom är begagnade men i bra skick. Om du är intresserad kan du nå mej på min mail (snowtrac59@tele2.se ) finns i Sverige.


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## 300 H and H

Translation?

I need some of the small Trelleborg tires 1 of the 12 small tires...

Kirk


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## teledawg

snowtrac59 said:


> Jag har trelleborg 600x10 orginalhjul till Snow-trac, dom är begagnade men i bra skick. Om du är intresserad kan du nå mej på min mail (snowtrac59@tele2.se ) finns i Sverige.


 
Translation Swedish to English... 


> I have 600x10 Trelleborg original wheels to Snow-trac, they are used but in good condition. If you are interested you can reach me at my email (snowtrac59@tele2.se) in Sweden.


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## nikos

Hey Everybody from Greece. 24-12-2011.
The best  *Wishes* for peacefull and nice Christmass time.
The weather  is cold outside, the snow its about 50 cm, the winter came, and the st4 is still in the garrage with others vehicles.




Too much grease and oil.
Fifteen years ago, it probably would be the best vax for my hair.


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## nikos

The floor  under, rust, dirt, dust - faded paint on the chassis.(before- after).

And the front engine frame. (before -after with the foam Shock-deadening material -  deadening composite sheet consisting of two sheets of polyethylene foam with the aluminum sheet)


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## 300 H and H

Looking good!

Good idea to do some sound insulation as well.......

Regards, Kirk


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## JimVT

Looks like one of the original  belts


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## nikos

JimVT Is the original V belt but in some parts, the inserts are in bud contition, so i had to replace the belt with the new one (Good Year).


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## Snowtrac Nome

i like the sound proofing you did don't forget under the hood as a large amount of noise escaping from under the hood wil be transmitted through the glass in the wind shield i had a hard time swalling it till i sound proofed the hood under my cummins powered pickup


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## nikos

Hey *dds* thanks for your, very interesting  informations.
I appreciate your opinion, and always the opinion of others has gravity, and is reckoned when needed to solve a problem.

The large amount of noise escaping from under the hood through the glass is a problem.

Whats your opinion about the insulation - deadening polyethylene foam for the cover the *engine bonnet*.
Does anyone has posted the cover of the engine bonnet with polyethylene deadening foam. Are there any photos.


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## JimVT

now to upgrade your lights.
http://www.forumsforums.com/3_9/showthread.php?t=45099&highlight=bright


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## Snowtrac Nome

nikos said:


> Hey *dds* thanks for your, very interesting informations.
> I appreciate your opinion, and always the opinion of others has gravity, and is reckoned when needed to solve a problem.
> 
> The large amount of noise escaping from under the hood through the glass is a problem.
> 
> Whats your opinion about the insulation - deadening polyethylene foam for the cover the *engine bonnet*.
> Does anyone has posted the cover of the engine bonnet with polyethylene deadening foam. Are there any photos.


 in my experiance the best soundproofing will have led in it this gives you a weight pennalty so the next best thing would have to be some kind of acustic foam i have some stuff i can't seem to get any glue to stick to i want to use on my interior it has seemed to work good on my dodge ctd its about 1 inch thick so it sounds like what you have should work fine for what you are doing


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## nikos

Τhe progress of the work is steady, working out in the engine, and when the work permit repairs and maintains the interior of the cabin. The black color chassis is mixed with primer paint for rust protection.

The black metal parts side of Cabin think to cover it with wood to prevent transfer the cold inside.

I want to improve the internal heat, because the metal surface of the cabinet should emit very cold masses and affect the overall temperature inside the cabin.One reason I do not enter the maintenance process in *red cab *is that, i am thinking to solve the problem of cooling and insulating the inside.

just finished work on the floor the next day, (the association of seating, tank, handbrake lever, and the coating of plastic floor coated, cables for lights) will begin to work through the cabin roof and side items.


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## nikos

The lowest temperature recorded across Europe yesterday, Monday, January 2 *in the town of Florina*, where the thermometer showed -18 degrees Celsius!
According to the news of ET3, this phenomenon is extremely rare, and after Florina followed KEM Port of European Russia and -17, in Ivalo, Finland with -14 and Elkinstantir Iceland to -10 degrees Celsius.
Typical is the picture of the river Sakouleva which has been frozen. Picture beautiful to the eye, but clearly shows the extreme weather conditions in Florina and extreme effects they have, especially in our pocket.
Today, the temperature dropped to -14 degrees up and is currently at -13.


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## Lia

Nikos, the snow trac is just sooo cute; I'd give much to be able to drive one. Awesome looking machine. The pictures that you posted iof Greece are beautiful too; they'd make awesome desktop pics during the winter. Thanks for sharing.


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## Snowtrac Nome

and -35f in nome alaska today


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## nikos

Hey Lia 
Florina is a typical industrial city of northern Greece.
Because of this isolation from the big cities, big mountains that surround it, have created a picture in which people have to combine business functions in a parallel relationship-management with the natural environment.
(lignite extraction - power plants).
Florina is known for three reasons
a) For *low* temperatures especially in winter.
b) For the *wealth* in natural resources - coal, lignite, and natural beauty of both architectural and natural landscape (6 lakes, rivers, wetlands *Prespa*,  traditional villages with stone materials, earth and wood).
c) The designation of the *City of Artists*. It is the city with most artists, painters and sculptors graduate School of Fine Arts at European level in relation to the resident population. The beauty of the natural and architectural landscape has adversely affect, and has motivated a large proportion.

In my family we have 3 Painters, me, my father and my brother. 

I am Professor of Fine courses at the University of Western Macedonia.
In fact, SnowTrac is a vehicle to begin exploring the winter landscape that are difficult to approach otherwise.

Aside from the rides with family and friends, I think that the ST4 is another tool in my work to begin to paint winter landscapes. I hope this year to be able to realize my desire, (ι want to discover and capture the color of winter) because I see that the winter has come early and I have not finished yet the restoration project (Track belting)
Lia Next i send some pics from the places that i want to visit - paint.


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## nikos

After a short recess (Three days), in the New Year's Day, a change in winter temperatures were the best for the body ( all had frozen inside the workshop), I crossed the highway heading to Athens.
The snow and frost, I left behind - 23 C were replaced with temperatures were between 13 and 15 Celsius.
On Mount Olympus, the mountain of the gods.
On the hill of the Acropolis (I got strength,  courage and inspiration)



the next day to return to work (Belting tracks)


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## nikos

start walking 
The marathon has just started - screwing


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## JimVT

Did you have to replace any grousers?


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## nikos

Jim VT Hey 

I  will try to tell you  the image of the state  adout the trucks.
The metall cleats are in very dood condition, just rusty   from  inactivity, have not  worked, and i think that need no form of intervantion. ( I could  do them - galvanized, but because i am hurry to walk  in the snow .....i hope  to understand) 

The rubber belts, are new as the  nuts and the bolts.
What i kept  it from the  old track, among with the metall cleats, are the  segments allouminioum, on which the screws are held, and of course the guides.

In the  left track i had no problem, just at the beginning i started working with Key EU prlug No 13 and had troubles  unscrewing. The  screws are not forced to rotate and making use  cutter ahd this  delay enough.
In the process  i discovered that the  screws were in inches 1/2 and bought new  tools for the impact  wrenches.

We  are currently  working on the right  side, and the olny problem  is that.
Some of the guides are missing (3-4).

At the same  pace  i will continue,in the right  side, BUT CAN SOMEONE IN THE FORUM tell me where can i get *the guides*  that are missing- broken.

If someone are intersting to replaced the *metal cleats*, any sujestions.


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## mackE

Christer Morlind in Sweden have spare parts for the tracks.
http://www.klovsjo.com/snowtrac/


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## JimVT

Can you mix the two kinds of grousers?


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## Snowtrac Nome

Jim you can't mix the grousers the ones you have picturedare for a 2 band track his are for a 3 band track the bolt holes are in the wrong locaton also those stamped grousers are a lot weaker


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## nikos

FULL Metal (Jacket) rubber in -29c.

These jobs (Restoration ) are usually held in the summer, when the weather is suitable and there is time. The impact wrenches, stops and can not work because the air is frozen.


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## nikos

I am working in the right side of the truck.
The left is ok 
Gradually the progress of the work is satisfactory and hopefully on Monday I have finished  the belt tension.


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## nikos

we are ready for the tension.
 The weather has improved it - 10 c . 
The problem is that the track was very hard from the cold, and it is difficult to stretch- tension  it. 
It is different if the temperature is not  appropriate


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## nikos

I hope to finish soon. The weather is appropriate because it preserves the snow in good condition.


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## muleman RIP

I can understand working in the cold building and air tools and hands don't work too well. I use several of theses type of heaters to warm up whatever I am working on. they help a lot.


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## nikos

In fact things were not as positive in terms of weather.
The air machine and the boiler was in the backyard (north side), and the evening,- nights, usually had free time - I worked, the cold air frozed the outer parts.
In the *left part* of the garage that i worked there was no heating, in contrast to other parts heated by the boiler and the daily work to repair the car did not stop at all.

The place I work mainly for parking and storage of agricultural machinery and there is space to have a great luxury.
First of all has *great ceiling*, and the temperature will be transferred to the roof. Fortunately, the ST4 was not placed on the side was the old tractor, (doors windows), because there, the ice was freezed the door.

Any heating appliance will be lost in the huge space. It's like we put a hair dryer to warm a room.


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## nikos

Hi guys

The weather today was fantastic. At noon Monday in an hour, 3 until  4 a.m we finished the stretch - tension  of  the tracks.

In the forums I have attended the efforts stretch of track with the help of appropriate tools (track jack ) and successful attempts with homemade tool (track jack ).

I wanted to build  a homemade tool, and ι bought all the metal parts. 
 I was ready to connect them to use in the tension. 
Eventually I decided to use something different.

The straps with metal hooks, which we use in trucks or platforms for holding loads. The mechanism is simple, by moving the lever tightens the straps and move items of the track.

In our case, each track is positioned left and right straps, and pulled up to come to the two straight edges.
For the best stretch, followed this tactic - approach.

*α)* We left the ST4  up on blocks - jacks and moved the track by   
              hand   onto the   guides.

*b) *We removed the front wheel to be no resistance and within 
             minutes the screws join two edges.

Then once insure the two compounds (6 bolts - screws) to track and making sure that everything is OK,

*c) * place the front wheel in place. To do this we placed a jack on the  
             inside of the box and pushed the track down. 

Pressing the foot on the outer side of the track in two minutes the wheel was placed in position.

In the same way and was left track.

It is a little different way but was unsuccessful. Each method has drawbacks and advantages.
In this case allows us to move it freely and tracks and tighten same loose screws better.

I hope I gave some new ideas on how we tension the  track.


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## Snowtrac Nome

well have you taken it for a ride i went in to the hills with mine on an aanimal veiwing charter last weekend temp was 0 f this morning it's - 20


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## JimVT

I wouldn't think you would have to go far  when it isn't hunting season.
Do you get many tourist?


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## Snowtrac Nome

it was a 2 hour trip not far take some pics of musk ox


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## nikos

The next step is to repair the tank. Outside it has superficial rust, but the problems are inside.
Apparently because of many months of downtime substitutes gasoline have created a black layer. So water vapor in sidewalls. (Rust- dirty) 

I started by placing a chain and bolts left over from the tracks, oil and shake and Shake well.
I think the tank takes much work, but I intend to replace the float and parts supply of gasoline along the way.

Temporarily put an outboard fuel tank to 30 liters of approximately 6.6 gallons in the front near the engine.

believe in this way that I will have time
a) and the ST4 can move without problems with dirty Tank
b) I will have time to repair the original tank.


I've also ordered a spare container with 30 liters of spatiality other - 6.6

*JimVT* tell me your opinion.
  How long and how far away I can cover with these quantities of 13 gallons of fuel


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## JimVT

My last trip I climbed a 6 to 8% grade with 12" fresh snow for 12 miles. Down hill on the way back and my 5 US gallon boat tank had 1/2 inch remaining. My GPS said 27miles total. I have a strong 40hp with a larger carb. Two people and not much gear but two batteries and tools.
I was told those tanks are troublesome .Some times on a hill it will not pull any gas. 
Jim


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## JimVT

It was heavy wet snow I usually get better MPG.


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## nikos

Hi everybody in the forum 

JimVT 
*About those tanks ( outboard fuel tank) are troublesome. Some times on a hill it will not pull any gas. *

The pump gasoline in the engine does not help ?  if the scale climbing hills is rising.

*A naive question? *
From the pictures the red tanks located on the right side. What serves this, with regard to placement on the left side?

Does the placement of the tank on the right side, has to do with the
 direction of the pipes to the fuel pump?


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## JimVT

The stock snow trac tank is what I am told as being troublesome. It May be just when they are old ...They did used them untill the production stopped. The plastic boat tanks work good . I use a 5gal and a small 2.5 gallon boat thank tied on the rear for a reserve. It isn't connected.You can see it on the last picture. 
I usually get 6 to 9 mpg . It depends on if I am just out playing or traveling.
I have seen two tanks one on each side but I don't think the extra fuel line hose would make much differnce if you wanted on the left. Lyndon always unplugged his after running because it syfened down and flooded the engine. I never have had that problem. He said with this setup if you pump gives up it will still run without the pump.
Be sure to open the tank vent.
with the boat tank you have more storage in the rear. I ues a 5 gallon but lyndon like larger sizes and has gone up to 20gallons .
Have you read "it's a surprise"?
Jim


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## Snowtrac Nome

mine has an 18 gallon tank in good conditions i can get about 50 miles on 5 gallons last winter i took a trip to timber about 53 miles from nome with a lot of hills and soft snow pulling a trailer i was about 5 miles out of town when i had to add fuel i hope this helps you i have plans to build an aluminum tank to put back inside as i like the tank lower than the engine as i have had the  needle valve stick open in the past and had fuel siphon through the carb and hydro lock the engine adilute the oil i now have a ball valve i shut off after i shut down the engine a modification i would suggest to all who do it this way i also have a small racore fuel water seperator filter attached so i can keep any water out of the carb


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## nikos

Hi guys

This time I have no specific job in the vehicle. Just wait for the new 40-liter tank about 9 gallons that I ordered.

I also have  ordered the  running lights, and two great headlights on the front, and two small in case of reverse.

Ι will replace three switches with new one, i will put a new battery and i change  cables, fuses, bulbs with problem.

*JimVT, dds,* and of course *Lyndon, Τhe magnificent  in " its a surpise part A"* Thanks for the valuable informations and the fotos.

While i am waiting for the orders (Tank, headlights etc)  I am not in the garage. From my Workshop i do some calculations on the consumption of gasoline - fuel  in the ST4.

According to information filed by JimVT and the DDS

*JimVT Says*  6-9 miles per Gallon for his ST4

This mean  +- 7,5 miles per gallon.
                1 gallon = 4,5 Litre
                1 mile  = 1,600 Km
                7,5 miles = 12 Km
*for   12 Km  JimVT needs 4,5 Litre or 1 gallon.*

*dds says *  that he need 5 gallons for 50 miles

 This  mean   50 miles = 80 km
           for    80 km needs 5 gallons
                   5 gallon = 22,5 litre
* For 80 km dds needs 22,5 litre.*

With simple calculations I thought that JimVT your  engine (1200 cc)  consume a little more gasoline than the dds.
Probably you climb high mountains - hills, in contrast to the dss that can moves around on flat ground.

 It is interesting to deposit and other experiences related to the consumption of gasoline fuel in Snowtrac


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## JimVT

I do run in the mountains  and also play some.  We have that  fuel that is mixed  10% of ethanol.


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## nikos

JimVT my friend 
I know that the snow is out there, and waiting for us.
If someone want not  to consume gasoline - fuel, would be better to sit in front of a fireplace and its beter to  thrown woods  into the fire.

We chose to have fun in another way during the winter time.

The discussion is to figure out and understand, + - about the size of the distances I have during a walk in the snow with family and friends. 
I do not want to start and find ourselves without fuel in the middle of nowhere.

Of course everything depends on factors such as
  a) The distance you need to go.
  B) The scale ascent (mountain, hill, valley).
  c) The load will carry.

and of course a number of other factors having to do with the maintenance of the engine, how we drive the ST4, how big is the  tank that we have       ( gallon- litre), and of course if we have fuel  supplies. (Another small tank with us).

Ι Do these calculations because I think, i am just before the end, to test the capabilities of ST 4 in the snow. ok


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## nikos

hI Gys
Wednesday 8 -2-2012 
The materials I have ordered just arrived. Since the weekend the weather has changed. There is heavy snowfall across the region.

Big problems from heavy snowfalls are all areas in the Balkan countries (Yugoslavia, Croatia, Montenegro, Romania, Bulgaria, and northern regions of Greece). Snowing continuously for five days.

I returned to the garage and started work
I placed the tank (40 litres - 9 gallons) on the left side, and I connected the fuel supply line  to fuel pump.

Along with the electric technician  began to connect the cables for the new headlights and replacements to the old switches and fuses etc.

I hope the problems of connecting cables may not be large. We use the designs with colored wires and try to find an edge.

Subsequent reports, questions and queries you have to do with wiring problems ok.

Regards nikos


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## nikos

It,s still alive 
After some hours  checking  out the electronic circuit, we changed the damaged cables,  bulbs, and fuses.

The first impression is that no serious damage to the electronic facility (rust - wire cutting), and the stream from the new battery normally carried in the circuits - instruments.     
Of course where you need replacement equipment (switches, cables, fuses) will put new materials,  to support both headlights front and two behind the door.

What will be difficult is that we do not  know yet, in what condition is the wiper mechanism - Motor Bosch 12v. 

Τhe heating of the F4 function normally, but I wiil  remove it. I have some ideas but at this stage would not dare to implement them. Maybe this summer I will have more time.


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## nikos

HEY Guys

I have a dumb question. *How do - work the rear lights.*
 Inside there are three bulbs ok.
     a) The Medium is the choice of right or left direction.
     b)The top if I'm not mistaken is for running lights.
     c) The lower bulb is the stop (especially in light of the truck when   
         we  press  the brake pedal).

In the brake mechanism in ST4 we have not something special (a sensor) to transfer the order or the appearance of the vehicle wants to stop,  in the back light.

So how it does work the third lamp ?

Regards Nikos


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## 300 H and H

nikos,

There should be a preasure switch to turn on the brake lights on or near the brake master cylinder on the firewall ahead of the drivers seat. When you press the brake peddal, you create preasure in the brake lines. This closes the switch, and your brake lights come on. Brakes are very important in a Snow Trac. Some day if you do not have brakes, you will run into something....

nikos, your machine is far to nice to have a big dent from a tree or rocks, ect. Make sure your brakes work well. You will be needing them soon, it looks like.

Best regards, Kirk


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## Snowtrac Nome

s mine is an off road vehicle with no brakes yet i never added brake lights i have plenty of other lights to announce i.m not moving as fast as the other traffic when i'm on the road


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## nikos

Hey Kirk,and dds thanks guys.
I had already replaced the  entire brakes system with entirely new components.(brake shoe - sping)
I dont want to have my  ST4  without  brakes and lights.

*a funny*
Imagine that you have no brakes in your ST4  and you want to stop the vehicle,  and there is no tree or rock around, what do you do in this case.
Reply. 
You open the back door and throw the anchor

So after careful study  (fotos ) of the area in front of the driver's seat at last discovered America *The master cilynder *
I will try to detect if I let the brake cable offline.

The best regards Nikos.


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## Snowtrac Nome

there's a reason i have no brakes i have a size 12 us add on propeer foot gear for this reagon there is no way with out curse words or other way im getting muy foot on the brake or gas peddal with out putting my foot on both some day i want to set up a braking system with a hand brake for now i just shut down the engine and let out the clutch in a lower gear or coast a short distance to a stop


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## nikos

hey Don  
It's a practical solution, without much damage, just the *inertia* of the vehicle immobilizes the vehicle itself. 
The Don extensively exploiting the advantage of flat surfaces because these surfaces inertia works in the best way.
Has adapted to the needs of ST4 on environmental conditions and thus no reason to increase the braking system.

And I know that, wy ST4 will be released in the mountain and not on the highways.
Who will see me turning OFF ROADS  and see the brake lights  when I press the pedal ?.
Possible wild animals, not bears, wolves and deer trained in traffic.
All this in the context of *vanity *to function properly.
And we become unhappy, angry if a bulb does not light up and wait a week to get a genuine bolt from Canada or Germany to say that we did the right thing.

In nature, however we must be more practical to survive, so they say the rules of survival, to find ways and means to adapt.
If, however, will have been combine practical solutions with the proper use of tools that humans have combined with the technology even better.
Don Thank you for the lesson (practical physics), once applied, and showed us that there are other ways to treat a ride on the ST4.


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## JimVT

The snow trac is gear low and compression   is about all you will need for stopping or slowing. About the only time I use mine is putting it on a trailer or holding on a hill with the engine running.
I forgot you had an ambulance  model.


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## nikos

Hey JimVT

Yes it s an ambulance model, but  tell me something. Whats your opinion?

Where are the differences  in the desigh, mechanically,  and *specifically* in the   hole operation of the electrical system in companion with the rest of ST4 ?, exept  the shape of the tailgate (with no small window), and the 3 or 2 belt schematic.
Especially  with the military style snow trac, I know that there are significant differences in overal structure. (Reinforced construction for the needs traction on the front and reinforced components in the chassis for portability  transport the ST4 eg Ships or large Military Vans - Vehicles etc).


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## 300 H and H

I kinda feel differently about the bakes on my ST. I have used it to pull kids sledding up the local sledding hill. Invariably one or more kids gets into trouble and looses their grip on the tow rope mid hill. I use the brakes to stop from running backwards over kids, some that are mine! Gotta have them working or I wouldn't do this...

The other day in a friends timber we lost the trail. I thought it went up a very steep hill and decided to try going up.... I spun the tracks about halfway up. Had time to get my foot on the brake peddal, and did. Glad they helped slow me down as I rolled backwards down the hill, right at a tree. They saved me from who knows what kind of damage...

I know that all you have to do is turn the key off and the engine will stop it on most any grade. But my instincts are to use the brake not the key switch. Yup the peddals are small and my feet are big, but I still manage to find the brake peddal when needed. I also remember Lyndon saying most ST's have front end damage from no brakes and hitting things to slow or stop them. I made sure this fall they were alive and well. Replaced master and wheel slave cylinders, no leaks and they are working well after I scotchbrighted the drums and degreased the brake pads. They really work good for now anyway. For me anyway, they have to be in working condition.

It's easy to think you don't need them, untill a situation presents itself that you had not thought of. Then you will wish they work....

Best regards, Kirk


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## Snowtrac Nome

don't get me wrong i have plans to get mine fixed too but i just won't deadline it for that as in most cases i never need them and when i do there is a work around the times i want them most is while decending a hill with one of them heavy loads i'm always pulling a brake would work well to slow me and the load down as it is now i must shift into the verry lowest gear so i don't risk overspeeding the motor and take my time my brake will have to be a hand brake as there is no way to get my feet in there with the boots i wear in the winter


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## Snowtrac Nome

the millitary models differ in that they have two charging systems, some one correct me ifi'm wrong about this next part. i believe that the generator only runs the fan and  is un used .the second alternator on top runs the 24 volt charging system my guess is tha it's a split system like the cucv's that the army used with the chassis electrical being 12 voltdrawn from 1 battery, and the starter and radio and ms stuff being 24 volt.  the reason for 24 volt starting system is with the higher voltage it takes less amperage to do the same amount of work this way you get better cranking at low temps.


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## nikos

Kirk said 
* ....for me anyway, they have to be in working condition.

It's easy to think you don't need them, untill a situation presents itself that you had not thought of. Then you will wish they work....*

If i do know  the trails and the slopes of the mountains in my area, because  i walked there, it will be  completely different case- situation,  when you have weight (Family- friends) in the ST4.

Apart the *deceleration*  of the ST4, that has  been in the snow, and because of friction, and many accessories that interfere with movement (Gear, Chains, no good lubrication in the wheels, sled, etc), when  letting go  the ST4 without pressing the pedal, or the hand break, and find the right condition, (eg not sliding but low speeding downhill) it can run down  the hill like a train.
A wild mystery train  on tracks

I changed the old ties both the handbrake  and footbrake. I did the same  for the brake and the cylinder brake. I hope the new material, give me the opportunity to feel  confident in the moments that i need them.

I will try to test them  in the first exit.

best regards Nikos


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## JimVT

nikos said:


> Hey JimVT
> 
> Yes it s an ambulance model, but tell me something. Whats your opinion?
> 
> Where are the differences in the desigh, mechanically, and *specifically* in the hole operation of the electrical system in companion with the rest of ST4 ?, exept the shape of the tailgate (with no small window), and the 3 or 2 belt schematic.
> Especially with the military style snow trac, I know that there are significant differences in overal structure. (Reinforced construction for the needs traction on the front and reinforced components in the chassis for portability transport the ST4 eg Ships or large Military Vans - Vehicles etc).


I cannot give a good opinion on the two models.I never had one with the wide doors. I only one time needed a larger door and that was last weekend when the generator seen in one of the rear sleds was 1/2 inch to wide to fit inside. I also have differnt style tracks.
Is that you in the picture?
this was my heavyest tow load so far.


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## nikos

hey guys 
Here some pics from the electric restoration.
It took nearly a week of work to replace the damaged cables and place the new lines for the lights and switches, new battery, new  cables, fuses etc.
Inside the console ST4 is   the technician, Just working. 
Outside  I check the contacts for the rear lights (brakes light, tail lamp,  and direction  indicator).
I believe that all is OK. 

In the end I have to place the number  plate  Lamp, and the original tank after I have cleaned from slag and dirt with the help of thick chain, oil, water and acid.

LAST Friday evening I filled the tank and the engine began- start,  to see how the electrical system  work (battery, coil, etc.) We are ready for the fist RIDE:


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## nikos

Αll instruments- electrical equipment  on the console was in operation (temperature, tachometer speedometer, switches,  the instrument  of gasoline tanks, heater), also the interior lights of the cabin.
Console of ST4 
1    Heater  - micro Switch 
2    Windshield Wiper Switch 
3.   Starter Switch
4    Revolution counter rpm 
5    Fuel gauge  (External tank – is running) 
6    Fuel  gauge  (Original tank  - out of servise)
7    Speedometer
8    Head lamp
9    Horn Switch
10   Choke control 
11   Throttle Control 
12   Ignition  lock
13   Side Direction  indicator switch
14   Oil Temperature Gauge
15   Oil presure control lamp + Charging Control Lamp
16   Headlamp Switch
17   Counter  of working hours
18   Plug
19   Head light Switch
20   Head  tail light switch
21   Fuse Box N2
22   Speaker  (I use it for CD player)


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## muleman RIP

Well done on this restore. You should have enough snow to run for a while. Now get out there and have some fun. See what breaks or needs tweeking next summer.


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## nikos

*ELVIS HAS LEFT THE BUILDING*

The first walk around the area. The snow was wet. It was a fantastic ride. After 4 months in the garage, the feeling was very special.
Its times that you can not describe them as the stress to go all right, to operate properly, the tracks, oil, engine, electrical power is  dominant.

Its times when anxiety about the success of the goal does not make you be glad, or enjoy your creature. The greatness of the creative in restoration.

The ride was about 5 miles. During this time I placed 3rd and 4th gear .. It  had to work very long. The engine sounded very good. 
At first everything crackling, but then was better. 
The first  breaths. 
The first smell of the engine. The first frozen flakes of snow .... and is only beginning.


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## Snowtrac Nome

looks good now have fun with it


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## nikos

Hi guys
March 31 - 1st April . 
The snows have melted at low levels in Florina, and we can meet- find over the 1400 m, in large quantities. I believe in thin tops of the skicenter, the snow will last until April -May.Throughout this period up to green fields the snow  rides  with the ST4 was a very interesting experience. It was Something else.

The walks around the area was at a low altitude of 600 meters because  I have not yet found a suitable trailer  to move to higher levels.
So the rides were both the day and especially at night,were the snow was harder.Throughout this period there was no mechanical problem and everything was ok. 
The only thing I missed, were some parts of the track, a couple of drivers.
I visit the local workshop to  make -construct about 10 drivers to have for spare.

So after  that fun, I went back to the garage (ten days ago)  for a* last act*.
The  end It will a bit strange - an upside down  act in the overall project of the restoration.  
Some  pictures for the events.

the best regards Nikos


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## louis

Hi Nikos,

You did a great job with your snowtrack restauration ; i've been to Greece a couple times back in 1998 working on Bombardier CL215 Water bomber; i have visited Athens and worked at a military base in Tanagra and Elefsina; it was very hot there (100+ degrees). Never saw snow overthere


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## nikos

The metamorphosis (camo) has began.
 Ιs the last act, and then i will  move with Trailer the snow trac for the final destination. My garage.


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## muleman RIP

Looks good. When you say cammo, are you meaning like a winter troop transport design? Love the step you are using also!


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## nikos

A week ago.
I was thinking to   put a third gray shade  ( spots)  between  the two basic colors, the white 70 % and the black 30%. 
But It needs more time and more  surface coverage. I have been delayed, and i must leave the shed,  to provide hangar space for the big trucks which come in for maintenance.


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## 300 H and H

First class Nikos!!

You are going to have a very very nice ST4 when you are done. My compliments Sir!

Cann't wait to see the paint job finished....I like the snow cammo theme.

Regards, Kirk


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## Snowtrac Nome

the only snow cammo we need around here is all white and in the fall when we hunt red and yellow fit in nice with the dieing veggitation


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## nikos

dds has given me a great idea to use it in the future in the Snow Trac  .
As an artist ι must discover - invent a special color (like the toys  HOT WHEELS) with hot and cold water.
So that when it snows the color start change -  become red. When the temperature begins to rise and the snow melt , the color must  change in  camouflage.
The summer when the sun is above and the girls are pretty,  the color of the Snow trac  must change in  the colors of our hart. The paradise  of colors. like this VW


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## nikos

Hey guys
It doesn't matter if  the fields are green and the flowers bloom.
it doesnt matter  if the spring  arrived.
The summer season is a stage adaptation for the big return of winter.

I hope  all this time until the winter time, to be a  creative and productive for everyone in the Forum.

I almost finished but I left a some  unfinished details (logo-mirrors), and  also I need to add some items into the cabin.
The maintenance will be enhanced incremental as needs arise, in summertime. 
The result with camouflage paint,  satisfy me, and I believe in this level maintenance made so far in the ST4,  I can check out for years the damage and be to quiet for a problem that may arise. There will always be solutions. 
Besides, thats  why friends are for. 
Ι would like to thanks,  all known - unknown friends in the forum for the valuable informations they shared with me and helped me to utilize all the tools of knowledge (Photos and experiences and skills) to reach the goal.
I feel really grateful for the help that   I had  received and the joy I feel for the final result.
This whole ordeal and the effort,  made me feel a different man, more productive, more creative and especially practical in solving problems.
Soon I will send some photos (New thread) from an abandoned Ratrak (Next Mission) who will need help to work on snowy mountains.

the best regards NIKOS......................................to be continued


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## Snowtrac Nome

Nikos it looks good and i'm not even a big fan of cammo but it does look good and is distinctly yours but you have to watch out for the hecklers they gave me a bad time about the white rims on my snow trac


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## JimVT

I  have always wanted to be seen in mine on the trail. We have lots of tight corners and fast snowmobilers. If it wasn't for that  a camo  would be my choice.
I agree with don ,It looks good.


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## nikos

Hi guys
It's summer time and in the free time I try to advance - improve the overall picture of the snow TRAC by adding materials which make the difference. 

a) I First  placed a  new signs  in the ST4  

b) I registered a new version drive licence  in case the vehicle
      moves around in   the asphalt road,  especially on a Saturday and Sunday.
     Daily I can move freely, in gravel roads, trails, and the plains, without any   
      problem.
c)  I have until   to December (six months) Road safety - protection.
     I have the right to take issuing ( Road safety )  only during the winter   months, 
     when the  snow trac there will  not circulate the remaining time.

d) I did record the club of the Hellinic Federation for the  Military vehicles which are  
    antiques. (Thats why I had to do the try, to transform the ST4 in camouflage, only 
    to justify in Hellinic tax authorities, the purchase of the "Military" vehicle.)

e) I  placed on the rear two new reflectors, 
    New rivets  - bolts to support  the two  rear doors.
    Stronger lock for each case.

Alongside i visit   the local metal working machinery,  and  made  a new pair of snow deflector  similar to what was in the ST4. 
Along the way, I feel  that i can utilize the authentic snow deflectors, and i proceeded to restore them. I  placed them in a small press - vise and in 30 min  they  had the previous form.

I preferred to utilize the original pair of snow  Deflectors and now I have a new pair in the store.
If anyone interested I can supply new snow  Deflectors along with pair metallic  bases mounting on the boogie  wheels.
Lynton puts -  says  in his books - bible: The snow is not as soft as it looks.


*Don* about the white rims  in my ST4. 
I think that the colors in the  rims do not play an important decorative role. I noticed from the pictures in the forum  that all the rims (Red - yellow, black, green etc)  in ST4 in the  winter, is covered with a lot snow.

So i had the same color in my  rims, in the winter, the same in the summer.
I look like a white (Wild)  sheep in green fields


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## 300 H and H

Nikos,

You now have one of the best looking Snow Tracs here on the forum!!!!

I hope you enjoy it very much in the comming years, and many of those !!

Very, Very NICE!!

Regards, Kirk


----------



## Snowtrac Nome

there you go kirk some one else with evinrude white wheels youu ain't giving him a bad time


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## muleman RIP

That looks great Nikos. Real cool design of the camo should blend in real well in the winter. Just don't get stuck or they won't find you without a beacon light. The countdown to next winter has begun.


----------



## 300 H and H

Hey but....dds,

He as winter cammo not factory red.....Beside I have a feeling the "boat is comming in" with some thing for you, and someday I'll be sayin the same to you.....

It's summer for crying out loud. Buy a can of black paint and black those wheels while you still can!

Regards, Kirk


----------



## JimVT

Are you going with some kind of ambulance markings on it? 
you never have shown  us a picture with both doors open.
Jim


----------



## the old trucker

Great rebuild on your machine but I don't like the color. I think you should have went with the red & black scheme. Just my nickels worth.

OT.


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## nikos

Hey guys
*Kirk* Thanks for the compliments, but i think, i have a lot of things to do, before i finished the all project. Especially  inside the cabin - decoration with the wool material.
If i had the right to vote, i think the most  best looking Snow tracs are: *Arlow's and Louis or Louis and Arlow's.*

*Muleman* I have already bought the Beacon Light, a magnetic one,  with cable from the plug.

*Jim,* About the Ambulance Marking, you have to wait, and see what i'm thinking. I Have something on my mind.

*Don * I Like the colors of our wheels, are the best.


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## muleman RIP

It sure looks good. You are ready when the snow comes back.


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## nikos

Hey Guys
Last month Ι had to move the Snow Trac (in the same way that i had to pick up, in the last September from the first place )  to the new base - home, in my Father's village in a altitute 1450m, at the foothill of the mountain VITSI (2100m).
Because for some reason the damages they do not stop,  a small boggie wheel completely destroyed and i had to replace it with a new one. For this reason I had need  the hand made Villy's tool , and now everything is OK.
Also we made a small metal base on the roof of the ST4 to fit a handmade magnetic beacon light.
Yesterday and today 13 /14- 10 -2012  the "ST4 as an ambulance"  appeared as another support vehicle at a major mountain bike race "*Drosopigi race 2012 Semi Marathon mountain bike* "  that took place in our mountain village. Athletes camped in tents in the countryside, on the field of football play  and the  presence of the ST4 attracted the attention - interest of visitors and the athletes themselves surprised about the type of ambulance. Of course there was a doctor and real  ambulance which had to take an athlete to the hospital. .. I am just Counting the days and  I watch - οbserve the clouds. 
Regards Nikos.


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## 300 H and H

Nikos,

I like the machine your refered to as well (louis's)...the tow behind camper is over the top!!

Your machine is an eye popper too especiall for us single door guys...It would be really nice to have the rear access you do for anyone's needs. With your talents I will be watching closely what you end up doing on your interior, and you mentioned wool... Not to mention with those doors working on the inside would be nicer too...

It would seem the attraction to the Snow Trac is universal. I have taken mine to several car shows and old tractor shows, and it draws alot of attention at those, as well as on the snow!

It's the time of year here soon for me to be getting mine out and ready. New drive sprockets would be in order, as mine are getting about worn out.

Regards, Kirk

Keep up the good work and keep us posted.


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## muleman RIP

All you need now is some snow. You could ship it over here as they are predicting heavy snowfall this winter for the northeast U.S. Since we had almost none last winter it is overdue.


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## JimVT

I like the jack. A folding one would be nice and you could carry it.


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## nikos

First a correction about  the altitude of the village is 1045 not 1450 m ok.
Last year, in the mountain bike semi- marathon 2011, it  held on the same date, it was raining in the village and at an altitude over 1450 m had snowfall.
Regarding this year's climate behavior of seasons, I have not received the necessary information and evidence. There are some people in my area who deal exclusively with empirical meteorologi - like counting the signs (Temperature – moisture etc) in the first 15 days inside a month, or  watching and observing  the clouds in the nights, and they know exactly + - the day that there will be snow, heavy or light.in the region.
The announcements of these people are one or two months before each climatic phenomenon. I didn't meet with anyone of these  meteorogists  yet. 
The fact is that the rest of the people are seeing us,  to  supply with woods our houses for the winter, and understands that the heavy winter comes. *We are the indians not the empirical meteorologists.* I don't know what weather will occur this year compared with last years harsh winter. What Ι really know is that. In  this mountain Vitsi had recorded  large snowfalls.
We shall see.  I wish to have more  time to entertain the season of snow, than last year (inside the garage). I also wish for all those who didnt  fulfilled their last year  wishes because the small amount of snowfall, I wish  to find the way for  the snowy trail to reach the top of the mountain. ( including me ).


*Kirk* as long as  there are friends, with the right tools, there are always solutions to small or large problems encountered during a rebuild. I am a painter, also an educator, and dealing with sculpture (metal construction). I have little mechanical experience. But I have ideas that can be applied.
I have important friends involved in construction - repair, maintenance and various vehicles so the support is generic. But as long as there are tools, and  friends, they'll appear and good ideas.

Regards Nikos.


----------



## nikos

Hey guys

The winter this year is too mild and snow that fell in the mountains it was very wet- not soft, and the ST4 had struggled on the closed turns.
After the walks in the uphill snowy paths I had to make some fixes - adjustments to SNOW Track.
First I noticed the overheats of the motor ( I don’t Know perhaps  the soft-Winter ), and I decide to 
A)	 Tight the Variator belt.
B)	Open some holes in the aluminum frame, under the engine.
The holes were made at selected points on the engine cover, which emit - collect the heat in the area around the engine.
Three main holes in the front area of the exhaust, and other 2X3 holes, on the  left and the  right, in points, that  accrued heavy amounts of heat, which are  produced by the pipes who carries the air heat into the cabin.
I also noticed a few openings in the metallic compounds - between the angles of air duct which i had to close them. Obviously the absorbance, amounts of hot air, for cooling the engine does not help.
I placed it a new rubber barrier on top of the air duct below the point which is the vent,the next year I will lubricate the engine with Aeroshell.
In fact, the restoration work did not stop. You begin to adjust one part, and something happened - appear from the "next door", mechanical and operational problems that need solutions.
The whole effort to understand and adapt  of the way which is better to operating the engine based on climatic conditions (wind, snow- altitude), is an approach that will take a long - long time.

to be continued....
Regards Nikos


----------



## 300 H and H

Nikos,

Tighten the variator belt. The snow in the pictures shouldn't be causing you any trouble to turn in at all. Make sure the sheeves are free of any grease or oil. 

Does your machine have the front tin ware over the muffler intack?? You want the heat of the muffler to exit holes underneath of it. Is the pipe from the muffler going out, inside the belly pan? if so turn it down and out of the engine bay, through the skid shield under the engine. This alone will help alot...

On my machine if I don't let the heat from the engine from left cylinder bank come into the cabin, it dead heads and causes the oil to heat up more. I have a damper on the left hand cylinder bank I can close off.

Regards, Kirk


----------



## SnowTrac Hunter

Nikos,

Two questions - 

Did the holes in the skid plate make a major difference in heat???

Can you scan your drawing for the wheel jack???

I am considering drilling holes in my skid plate as well to reduce heat. I definitely could have used a wheel jack when I worked on mine last fall. Major pain in the butt, had my son helping or would not have been able to do it. Same concept just 2x4's, and the wood got chewed u quickly.

Thanks,
Joe


----------



## 300 H and H

One more thing the tension of the fan belt. Mine was slipping, untill I found I could turn the alternater by hand...

Regards, Kirk


----------



## nikos

Hey guys 
I hope the difference of the + - ten hours between the hemispheres is not a barrier to discussion. Maybe there is a delay but I will answer all the questions.

*Kirk*
the Sheaves are free now of any grease- oil.
The snow in the pictures is ok for rides, but i had troubles in the low altitude. The snow isn't ice, and the tracks sink into the snow grooves on the tight turns. I had to turn the ST 4 two or three times back - front ect.
As for the questions
Yes i have the front tin ware over the muffler.
also i want 
a) The heat of the muffler to exit from the holes underneath of it 
b) To mix the hot air inside the engine bay, with fresh air, from out side.

I don’t have damper on the right cylinder, because there is the Starter. I have only on the left cylinder, and i use it us well, close of, ect.

Probably i must turn down the left pipe out through the skid shield. It’s a goof idea. Thanks
As long i watch the F.F., I am learning how to learn.

My clock counts hundreds of hours in training method through FF. Watching - learning and counts equivalent hours of practical training in the garage, but only a few hours behind the wheel of ST4. (About + - 50 -60 miles)
I have no major problem, just adjust the ST4.  in the climatic conditions, for better functioning.
In the course of the winter, there are ways to seal the holes ok

Regards Nikos


----------



## nikos

*Hey Joe.*
I have not even test the Snow track  and  i do not know yet the result of  the adjustment. (In theory it works, but i think that it will work the same in reality.)
Many times on Saturday - Sunday the  social or the  professional obligations do not allow me to drive at the mountain snow trails. But I will soon know and i will inform you guys about the Heat dispute.
Joe As for the holes on the skid plate the consept need something nice- easy and quickly. I did not use wheel jack in the picture to put the skid plate, thats why i use the wood under my butt.

Regards Nikos


----------



## Lyndon

That's one beautiful "RIG"! I couldn't help but notice the *BOTTECCHIA* banners. You showed your ST4 at a Bicycle meet? I own a Bottecchia. Nice bike, also the first Italian to win the Tour de france. 

I thought I had generated an article on the ST4 tires a long time ago, but it must be in with some other aspect of Snow Trac history that I generated earlier.
The little tires were always a weak aspect of the design. This actually led to the modification of the Large front tires on later models. It's also why other manufacturers went to larger wheels. There are very few substitutes for the small tire. I tried everything. So did MT. Snow, in Vermont. They had a whole fleet of ST4's and I remember seeing various attempts at substitute wheels that did not fare so well. I have even seen a guy in Alaska that made his own layered plywood wheels. Substituting Solid Casters for the second position from the front worked well on several of my machines. There is an aircraft tire that is made for Gliders, that works, but is hard to find and expensive. It's more ply's and can be inflated to higher pressure. The Canadian Phone companies had a tire manufacturer in Calgary that made solid tires for them. Probably Bandag. They also had Brass front sprockets made by someone in Calgary. As the Canadian Phone people purchased and operated about one fifth of the entire production of Snow Trac, Snow Master, and Trac Master's they got pretty good at modifications and improvements. Besides producing their own tires and sprockets, they were responsable for the later exhaust designs and some suspension improvements. They were possibly the only end user that by-passed all the dealers and delt directly with Westermaskiner. Some of the photos in the sales literature are of their machines. If you are going to stay with pneumatics, the original Snow Trac tire is the one I recomend. They are lighter and quieter, (16 on a Snow Trac, and 18 on a Trac Master), but if you want reliability get them foam filled. As the rear wheel is only for tensioning and rarely carries weight foam filling it is a good ideal and doesn't impair the ride. Always carry a spare big and little tire, check the air pressure regularly, and check to see that one has not frozen and isn't turning especially after sitting overnight. I've seen several machines with a destroyed tire and rime from being driven when they were not turning. One can also substitute a solid tire or caster for the "Top" tire, the one the track returns on to the back wheel. This also does not affect the ride or reliability.


----------



## redsqwrl

Lyndon are you implying the original 300-100 Pneumatic tire is available?

Mike


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## Snowtrac Nome

the origionals are available as aircraft tail wheels you can get them up to 6 ply and from time to time aviall has blems for sale. i have seen them as cheep as 30 bucks a tire .so far the big wheel conversion i did on mine has worked well just don't need axked rated at 1000 pounds per axle i think 750's would be a better choice.


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## nikos

Lyndon - Lyndon.
The Boggie Wheels of the ST4  = Weak aspect or the Achilles Heel. A month ago when I,  and my friends try to ride in a snow trail, for some how, I dont know, (Maybe of some hight  pressure in that point - hard ground ) one small wheel, the tube broke on the right side.
I have pneumatic tires, and i didnt have not  curry any extra tyre or the villy tool with me.
But at this point i have been lucky because, the front suspension system with the double small wheels, it turned over.
As you imagine it is something that you dont have seen everyday.
I thought that something barrier broken.
The front - top suspension system with the damage small tire just staying upsidedown, with no any other work inside the guides.
Only the second suspension double system in the right side is working (with the big and the real Wheel of course).
When we try to turned over, to change the position, inside the guides, the rig, broke also the tire. We realise that we have serious problem. The ring after the damage of the small wheel, it try to damage the rubber truck.  We drive the ST4 in a position that it was easy to turned over the top suspension system again -upside down. ( I have Video of this procedure).
After that we continued  with the 3/4 of the small wheels, without any other problem about 25 miles. 
The result - lesson  of  this story is always carry someone with you.
I have now the villy tool, some tools and a solid caster tire with me. In the summer i try to find a better solutions with the foam filled tires. 
Until then, what ever happent and did not kill you, it makes you  more strong.

Regards Nikos


----------



## villi

Great tool the villi tool nice Snow Trac there, greatings from the snow in Iceland. Villi


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## nikos

hey Villi from Iceland

Yes you all right.
The VILLI TOOL is a tool with brand name.
Regards Nikos


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## nikos

Hey Guys 
Here is the Video. 
My 2st Snow Ride with the ST4, 5th of January 2013.
Location: VITSI mountain
Distance: 28 Miles. 
Look at what happent In the 3rd mille, with one of the boggie Wheel.  

http://youtu.be/q-Xy1TP7Qnw


----------



## Sno-Surfer

Looks great! It didn't seem like that flipped boggie caused you much trouble. I don't have shocks on mine yet either so I've been wondering how that would happen. Do you know how it happened, hit something, or too fast or ?? How do you turn it back over? Did it hurt anything?

thanks for the video! Always cool to see where others take theirs.


----------



## nikos

hey Surfer

This happened in the first 3 miles, cause the hard road ground.
I dont have any trailer yet,   that's why, and i have to drive the ST4 1 mile on a asphalt, and the other 2 milles on the ground, to find the snow trails.
Something hit the front boggie wheel (rock a curve - cavity and happened).
We stop to check the MT bike trails, and i realize that the front suspension system, it turned over. We found another curve there, and push the track from above to turn the suspension system "in the right place"
That was the real problem, because all the force, the weight, just in few minutes damaged the front flat boggie wheel.
Again we found another  curve - cavity, and we turn over the  front suspension system.
Nothing happened in the next 25 miles as you can see, on the snow trail.
Only the front wheel and the tube. Again we found hard ground about 3/4 mile, in the place, with the guys with the Jeep's, and in the village, 1/2 mile asphalt.
We drive the Snow trac 25 miles with 3/4 of the suspension system.
The track as tight as it is, if you found a cavity, a vacuum, it's easy to turn over, (of course with some force),  the front suspension system.
In a cavity the weight of the rubber trac, fall down or take place inside the cavity, and  if you push the boggie wheels, the system turn over.
Now i m ready for another "expedition". but i need to find a trail to go there.
The snow is too much  there. 
Too much.
Regards Nikos


----------



## JimVT

Gravel road is hard on the tires. last week I drove the same distance as you with rocks flipping into the tracks. This is what happened. I used  the jack setting on top to change it.


----------



## nikos

Hey Jim'
The same problem. I don't know maybe we should place a system of mirrors and cameras, (like the Big Trucks)  to know what happens every second with small wheel.

On the mountain there is to mush fresh snow and I can not move, drive the ST4  on the stone ground.(no trail). The weather in February it rains constantly, and on high altimeters is  snowing every day. (the last 10 days).+ six feet.
In normal condition with  snowfall, I could drive the ST4  until the top of  the  Vitsi mountain, a distance 12 km.
Today the weather has created two levels, a) autumn landscape with rain and the other b) with  heavy snowfalls.
 I must call for a helicopter- ambulance REALLY.

Regards Nikos.


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## Snowtrac Nome

the flipped boggies can be a real problem when opperating on tundra or crossing rutts in the trail or larger rocks if your snow track came with out shocks you can improvise with some limiting straps or chains tied off to the frame.


----------



## Sno-Surfer

Ok Nikos, I see how you flipped it back over. I took another look at the video. 

JimVT, where do you put that jack to jack the boogie up? I can't see how that would work? How fast are you going to ruin a rim with a flat? If one had to, could you drive a while with a flat boogie?

Just this morning I notice the same boogie on mine and the bead had come out of the rim. They are foam filled but went ahead and took it off and put an air filled on on and it's working fine so far. Took it out again today for about 12 miles or so. 4 adults and four kids. Had a great time.


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## JimVT

I have a hydraulic scissor jack and 300lb chain ratchet. they both have several uses.
the jack has it's own case that is nice. I put the jack on the inside close to the guides lifting on the spring and turned it some so the axle bolt would slide out. It tilted the wheel some when jacking so the chain ratchet pulled the outside spring straight just enough to make it easy. 
If I only had one the chain ratchet would be it. They are very small and work good. $40 at harbor frieght. Way better than a cable wratchet


----------



## JimVT

I have a hydraulic scissor jack and 300lb chain ratchet. they both have several uses.
the jack has it's own case that is nice. I put the jack on the inside close to the guides lifting on the spring and turned it some so the axle bolt would slide out. It tilted the wheel some when jacking so the chain ratchet pulled the outside spring straight just enough to make it easy. 
If I only had one the chain ratchet would be it. They are very small and work good. $40 at harbor frieght. Way better than a cable wratchet


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## nikos

Good Day 

I am in the process to replace the wheels of the ST4.
4x600x100 and the 10X boogie wheels with those with  foam Filled in the next months.(April - May).
I want your opinion, especially from those who have foam filled tyres in their ST4. 
From the research that I've done on the local market, I have two simple question.
Which is the right speed of the ST4 with the foam filled tyres?
(Not over than 20Kmph or 13 mph.). Is that right?
and 
What about the condition of the shape on a foam filled tyre. 
Any problem?. When they start to destroyed?

Regards Nikos


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## utahwilson

nikos said:


> HEY Guys
> 
> I have a dumb question. *How do - work the rear lights.*
> Inside there are three bulbs ok.
> a) The Medium is the choice of right or left direction.
> b)The top if I'm not mistaken is for running lights.
> c) The lower bulb is the stop (especially in light of the truck when
> we  press  the brake pedal).
> 
> In the brake mechanism in ST4 we have not something special (a sensor) to transfer the order or the appearance of the vehicle wants to stop,  in the back light.
> 
> So how it does work the third lamp ?
> 
> Regards Nikos



I like these doors that swing open to both sides.


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## Hale Motorsports

What did you use to make the new belts on the tracks? 
I just started a full rebuild on an 1969 ST4 and would like to replace the belts on the track.

Thanks,
Randy


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## Snowtrac Nome

Randy what is your location


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## Snowtrac Nome

snow cat belting is usually pre stretched and cold weather rated . on a snow trac with it's limited horse power you would likely get away with out using pre stretched belt. you do want a 3 ply belt thicker isn't always better as the thicker belt will suck up valuable horse power. I do have a pdf of the punch pattern for the 2 band belt some place I will have to look it up don't use the old belts which have already stretched as a pattern later on you will find timing issues.


----------



## Hale Motorsports

I'm in Old Saybrook, CT.  I am building the Snow Trac for a customer in Lake Placid, NY.  I have it down to a bare frame and all the body work is at the media blaster, should have it back by the end of the week.  I am going through it and making it like new.  I will start a new post later this week with some pictures.

 Thanks for the help, I'm sure I'll some more questions as I go along.

Randy


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## Snowtrac Nome

ok I can't help you with a source, you might try Brad at minnasota out doors he would likely be a good source for the rubber. getting your supplier to cut the bands is the only way to go they have the shear and its painless. trying to cheap out with a skill saw will leave you with many reasons to repent come sunday.


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## 3512b

I believe this it the trac pattern for mine Should work for you
there was a belting place in Hartford we use to get our belting 
Don can confirm it is the correct track pattern. this is the one that been converted to inches instead of metric
Can find a sourse for the belting for ya if you don't have one
My friend Duffey will know
If you need any fabricated parts a friend of mine in east Gramby Ct mite be able to fab it for you. He's got a pretty good machine shop and sheet metal equipment,


----------



## Snowtrac Nome

3512b said:


> I believe this it the trac pattern for mine Should work for you
> there was a belting place in Hartford we use to get our belting
> Don can confirm it is the correct track pattern. this is the one that been converted to inches instead of metric
> Can find a sourse for the belting for ya if you don't have one
> My friend Duffey will know
> If you need any fabricated parts a friend of mine in east Gramby Ct mite be able to fab it for you. He's got a pretty good machine shop and sheet metal equipment,


that would be it I have suppliers up here but Alaska is a long way from where you are. I was fishing for weather you were east coast Midwest or west coast. Alaska rubber and supply in anchorage has the belt specs for both the 3 band models and 2 band models I have to build a template some time for the snowtrac I made one already for the Thiokol before I put on the new belts I had for it.


----------



## nikos

Hey Randy

This link is for you (3 belt schematic) Just for the beginning to replace the belts.
I dont know if "your" ST4 has 2 bands or three.
http://www.forumsforums.com/3_9/showthread.php?t=50568&highlight=serial+number+ST4

Nikos


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## JimVT

sprockets should be the same. my factory schematics have 100mm wide belts the 7.5mm holes are 15 from sides 70 mm between center holes.
86.5 is the hole spacing
this is a 3 hole wide belt. dated 10 6 59
this should still be available on this forum someplace.

 I also have the factory schematic of the small ,medium and large bushings. I think it is useless because many times the bushings wore down and they were made oversize with larger ones.
jm


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## nikos

HEY GUYS 

The best - warmer wishes for the NEW YEAR


Well after some hard homework in different periods (from summer till now), i have made progress and improvements in my ST4 and i would like to share with you guys.

First of all
Thanks to *Tele Dawg* i set, the extra tubular strut, that brace bracket between the frame and the bolt on the Bell Housing. I forgot it (left it behind)  in the big garage with some other thinks spare parts.


----------



## nikos

As i told you before i had some heater problems, not serious but always a problem is a problem.
Thanks to *KIRK*, i change the Muffler  rubber Intake on the Air Horn, and now the engine hood is closed, much better on the air horn.
Now the outside air is coming thru the hood, and not from the inside from the engine


----------



## nikos

Step n3 

I set a new Fire Wall inside of the Grid.


----------



## nikos

Step n4 

New heater lines (Left and right)


----------



## nikos

Again

Step n4 

Nen Heater lines (Left and Right)


----------



## nikos

To be continued.......


----------



## JimVT

doesn't the hot air exit out the front? it should be open.


----------



## nikos

JimVT said:


> doesn't the hot air exit out the front? it should be open.



*JimVT *the hot air exit is an issue BUT the main reason that i have put the metal sheet with the small holes, is that i want to protect the generator from situation with icy snow entrance. (This metal sheet is very easy to put it, or to take out from inside without any screws, Just some plastic sticks)
Anyway this metal sheet with the small holes, it allow the cold air to come inside in decent amounts every time. The same happen with the hot air from inside.
The main hot air exit, is not the upper part of the grid, where is the fire wall, but i think in my ST4, is the other part which is down. 
JimVT all the hot air from the engine, and the cold air from out side, is coming thru the down part of the grid.
I dont know if i am right or wrong, i am just trying to figure which is the best solution for this idea. 

Nikos


----------



## 300 H and H

Nikos,

I am thinking you are right, the heat exits from the lower part of the front grill below the bumper. That is why there is a piece behind the bumper dividing the top from the bottom, to the front of the bumper. There the heat can get away, without comming in the top of the grill... Have you drilled the large holes on the front of the belly pan below the muffler? Lyndon says they will help the most to let exhaust heat concentrated in the muffler out, even though with out being pushed hot air rises.... I am of course assuming you have the lower tin work infront of your engine above the muffler....

Looks good and I bet it heater works better too!!

Regards, Kirk


----------



## nikos

*Kirk* as you can see from the pictures, i spent a lot of time under the ST4 looking the lower part of the engines (Try to find some oil leaking from the engine, and to see the condition of the muffler). My next step in the next year is to chance the muffler with a new one.
Anyway you can see the holes on the belly pan, and the lower tin in front of my engine.
But the heater problems always depend many times not only from what we are doing in the ST4, where we drive, flat or mountain areas, BUT the main reason is the condition of the whether, if it enough cold -15C or 5 F, probably the air that comes to the engine, is much colder than the condition with warmer situation with 0 C or 32 F.

Nikos


----------



## Cidertom

Interesting view of the belly pan.  I will get a pix of mine.  It has large slots (appx 1"x4") where the holes are in Nikos trac's  They appear OEM.    My original engine a 1600 cc industrial did NOT have lower tin on it.  I couldn't determine if that was OEM or not.  But the airflow from the cylinders is fairly strong out the slots.  The lower tin would force the airflow to the front (of the trac)  which seems counter intuitive to me as it would be away from the large slots and against the motion of the trac.

A funny about my belly pan: When I took it off I used several swear words.  There was bolts with nylock's and wood screws into small blocks of wood.  Most of the welded nuts were drilled out and the belly pan edge looks like "swiss cheese" with all the extra holes that have been drilled into it.  The previous owner(s) didn't bother to repair the reason it didn't fit they just made more mounting holes.


----------



## Snowtrac Nome

I run mine with out all the lower tin I have removed the transition plate between the body and belly pan, and also have holes drilled under the cylinders  I have had no over heat problems even while running on 80 degree days going across the tundra. removal of the transition plate at the back of the belly pan will let a lot of heat out.


----------



## 300 H and H

Cidertom said:


> Interesting view of the belly pan. I will get a pix of mine. It has large slots (appx 1"x4") where the holes are in Nikos trac's They appear OEM. My original engine a 1600 cc industrial did NOT have lower tin on it. I couldn't determine if that was OEM or not. But the airflow from the cylinders is fairly strong out the slots. The lower tin would force the airflow to the front (of the trac) which seems counter intuitive to me as it would be away from the large slots and against the motion of the trac.
> .


 
Tom if I remember correctly your is a very late machine...

Lyndon says the Snow Trac engineers never really cured all the heating issues, and on the late machines there were factory cut slots on the belly pan. He is not sure they helped, but a one parked outside in a snow storm could end up with the engine compartment full of snow....

I don't have heat issues, and my pan had no holes untill I put in four directly under the muffler, across the pan from side to side.. I can feel the heat in the lower half of the grill, not moving fast, but it is there. I figure that they intended for it to exit ahead of the bumper, and rise up before it goes back in the upper part of the grill. Not to mention it should help melt snow on top of the bumper to some degree..

We need snow here...

Regards, Kirk


----------



## nikos

Snowtrac Nome said:


> I run mine with out all the lower tin I have removed the transition plate between the body and belly pan, and also have holes drilled under the cylinders  I have had no over heat problems even while running on 80 degree days going across the tundra. removal of the transition plate at the back of the belly pan will let a lot of heat out.



*Don* if i remember well, you dont use your break in your Snow trac anymore.
You have break but you dont use it.
If we revome the belly pan, the break systems didnt work.
So if we cut the belly pan ( photos1 and 2 ) and set only the front part where is the holes that hold the motion of the brakes, all the heat go out, and we can use the break as well.

(I dont know if want to cut the belly pan, because i had the opportunity to paint it several times with the camo colors, and i didn't. The colors, red and the orange, is something that reminds me the OEM parts. Also the red was the factory color).

Nikos


----------



## Snowtrac Nome

don't cut the belly pan my brakes have never worked you have different brakes as your are internal and mine are on the outside hubs you have plenty of room for air movement I think I just would leave the transition plate out. if your engine is getting too hot check jetting on the carb you may be running too ritch or too far advanced on timing. also while the belly pan is off look up behind the push rod tubes between the cylinders you should have a deflector plate on each side if those are missing you are have cooling issues with the engine, also remove the fan tower there are supposed to be deflectors in side the tower these are attached to a lever and thermostat the thermostat doesn't need to be operating but those deflectors need to be inside the tower and locked open or once again you will have cooling problems.


----------



## 300 H and H

Nikos,

Yes don't cut up your belly pan!

You have done several things that should help out alot. Why not give them a try before you cut out your pan...

Like Don said, check to make sure your air deflectors are open and letting air through. Then try it out with the intact belly pan. My bet is that if you still have issues, check the timing and the carb to make sure these are correct. 

Regards, Kirk


----------



## nikos

*Don *forgive me, I miss that you have the Snow trac with external drum.
No i don't cut the belly pan. Sometime i am thinking too loud. 
When i was under the ST4 and i was looking very close for some small leakage, coming from Push Rod Tubes. I took this picture, which seen that the deflector plates in every cylinder - each side, are there.
Now i must call my engineer to check again the advance on the carb. 

Nikos


----------



## Nikson

Good going...


----------



## Snowtrac Nome

nikos one problem is you have the bus duct on your machine, unbolt it and get rid of it. once it is removed ,you will be able to see your push rod tubes and the little deflectors between the cylinder jugs. they are just little butterfly wings snapped in to the case studs.as for push rod tubes there is a good fix for them you need to remove the engine and heads buy new stainless tubes and seals there is 2 part adhesive called pro seal or fire safe.it is intended for aircraft fuel tanks,get b-1/2 that will give you a half hour pot time.b-2 can take up a week to dry ,sealyour tube seals with the pro seal and they will never leak again.this is a trick I learned from a dc-6 mechanic. do not try to buy the 2 piece tubes just more places for leaks.


----------



## nikos

Snowtrac Nome said:


> nikos one problem is you have the bus duct on your machine, unbolt it and get rid of it. once it is removed ,you will be able to see your push rod tubes and the little deflectors between the cylinder jugs. they are just little butterfly wings snapped in to the case studs.as for push rod tubes there is a good fix for them you need to remove the engine and heads buy new stainless tubes and seals there is 2 part adhesive called pro seal or fire safe.it is intended for aircraft fuel tanks,get b-1/2 that will give you a half hour pot time.b-2 can take up a week to dry ,sealyour tube seals with the pro seal and they will never leak again.this is a trick I learned from a dc-6 mechanic. do not try to buy the 2 piece tubes just more places for leaks.



Hey guys 

Sometimes many things (like engineering) is like Greek to me.

 But i will find the problem, thanks to the community of the snowcat lovers.

Happy New Year. The best Wishes for the 2015.

Nikos


----------



## Cidertom

Not a great pix, but it shows the late model slotted pan.


----------



## nikos

Step n5


New reflectors in the rear, for any case (Now I am just like a Christmas tree)


----------



## Cidertom

I think I'm missing something here.  First he paints it snow camouflage, then puts high intensity reflectors on it???


----------



## DAVENET

"Hide & Seek"


----------



## nikos

Cidertom said:


> I think I'm missing something here.  First he paints it snow camouflage, then puts high intensity reflectors on it???




Obviously you all right, but in the other way, nothing is missing, and nothing is wrong  in the all history. Everything is just what the Greek law says.
It's not so complicated if you think that: 

*a)* I dont have a trailer (yet).
*b)* I have to run 2 or 3,5 miles in the main road, before i run in the snow trail. (This is a problem).
*c)* I have a drive licence for the ST4 which i renew it every year, and i always keep the vehicle registration plates on the ST4.
My registration says that i must have these reflectors and the bacon light, when i have to drive the ST4, in my way.

So it's not so complicated i you think that:
When i want someone to see me on the road (these 3,5 miles), i want to look like, like a christmas tree.
BUT when i am in the snow trails, my camo - Ambulance ST4, it must be looking like a tree.

Nikos


----------



## Snowtrac Nome

I drive mine on the roads too a twin sonic light bar and smv triangle on the back with dot reflective tape all over it mainly for snow machines to see me when parked along side a trail.


----------



## nikos

Snowtrac Nome said:


> I drive mine on the roads too a twin sonic light bar and smv triangle on the back with dot reflective tape all over it mainly for snow machines to see me when parked along side a trail.



Don, in Greece we dont have so many snow machines arround the trails. The 95% of them, are in the Ski Centers. So i dont have so many problems with the snow machines. The problem is on the road. Sometimes i have to run the ST4 with 15 or 20 mph, in the right - right  side of the road, with the right track touching not the asfalt, but the soil in the ground.

Nikos


----------



## nikos

The point  for reflectors is that, i didn't want to use something usually, or something to buy from the market, like what the trucks are using. I wanted to made something by my self - by my hand, in the dimension that i need it. So i used the red and the yellow reflective tape on a plexiglass plate.

Nikos


----------



## nikos

Step n6
All the boogie tires (10) are now SOLID. Next year I will try to do the same (Solid tires) to the others especially the front tires (Trelleborg).

Nikos


----------



## 3512b

Nikos, just want to say I like your work! great job
I did notices on the last picture the way your spring are tied together with one solid piece of flat plate
think that is a better way to support the spring instead of the way mine are with 4 straps
think I will up date mine that way also
was this original?

here my bogies ready to go on I I have one wheel assm I want to replace
Plus I have to update my welding skills….


----------



## nikos

3512b said:


> Nikos, just want to say I like your work! great job
> I did notices on the last picture the way your spring are tied together with one solid piece of flat plate
> think that is a better way to support the spring instead of the way mine are with 4 straps
> think I will up date mine that way also
> was this original?
> 
> here my bogies ready to go on I I have one wheel assm I want to replace
> Plus I have to update my welding skills….



*
3512 b*
Yes it's the original piece. In my tool box i have 2 new pieces - srews supporter for the spings.(Just in case)
Anyway Why did you have reinforce the boogie wheel assembly?
Keep working.
Its interesting (for the history) if we are able to see the way with the 4 straps.

nikos


----------



## redsqwrl

Nikos, Thank you for taking the time to document your maintenance. 

I very much appreciate it,.

In n1 the teledawg brace, did you notice a performance improvement or was that do for strength purpose.

Mike

The reason i ask, I recently bought a snow trac that sat for many years. the pin nearest the brace was rusted tight and prohibited the machine from turning to the right.

I dissassemble the pins and freed all of them and the steering is very good now but there is alot of stress on that pin indeed.

Mike


----------



## nikos

redsqwrl said:


> Nikos, Thank you for taking the time to document your maintenance.
> 
> I very much appreciate it,.
> 
> In n1 the teledawg brace, did you notice a performance improvement or was that do for strength purpose.
> 
> Mike
> 
> The reason i ask, I recently bought a snow trac that sat for many years. the pin nearest the brace was rusted tight and prohibited the machine from turning to the right.
> 
> I dissassemble the pins and freed all of them and the steering is very good now but there is alot of stress on that pin indeed.
> 
> Mike




*Mike *i am not a PRO, i know your case with the pins.

But with the Teledawg brace the things are much - much better. Before that I had to clenched the screws A1 + A2 in the same amount from the beginning (the screws are by that turned counter-clockwise) for the tension of the variator belt. I think the brace reinforce the all body.
Now the performance of the ST4 on the snow is just like, when you cut the butter with a knife. I am very satisfied.

My opinion is that. If you dont have the bracket dont worry. Nothing happened. But if you have the chance to built a bracket by your self, or in a machinery - workshop,  just do it.

Nikos


----------



## 3512b

nikos said:


> *
> 3512 b*
> Yes it's the original piece. In my tool box i have 2 new pieces - srews supporter for the spings.(Just in case)
> *Anyway Why did you have reinforce the boogie wheel assembly*?
> Keep working.
> Its interesting (for the history) if we are able to see the way with the 4 straps.
> 
> nikos



It look like streinghing the sides has been one of the updates done to the
bogies. I seen it done with just a pice of angle weld on. ii felt the 1 inch angle welded on making a trangale will be stronger with the same effort

 you can see the angle on the bogies in the pic
 plus I had the steel kicking around and a Saturday night with nothing to do,,,


----------



## nikos

Working in my project 
Step n7

I built my homemade Tool Box (right side)

nikos


----------



## nikos

step n8  - EXTRA Snow Deflectors.

No One says that:

Ever after a snow ride with the ST4, it's necessary to clean the snow that was gathered and sat on the bar of the chassis, (Fotos N1, N2 ,N3, N4) because all the snow will probably melt in our store house or in the garage.

An easy way to remove the snow is the extra snow deflectors. (Fotos N5, N6, N7, N8, N9, N10)
I tried it and the results it depends from the quality of snow (Wet, icy, sugar etc).
There are cases that the snow fall down without any force for me, and sometimes i have to remove (especially) the wet snow before i store the ST4 in my garage.

Nikos


----------



## nikos

Hey guys

Under serious economic issues- Crisis in Greece- Capital Controls and the worries about the future, I would like to post my progress in the project " NO MORE OIL LEAKS" which it started last November.

a) First of all i had to replace the old and brocken 12v Bosch Generator with the new one. Between a new 12v Generator i choose a 12v Alternator.
(including  New Alternator pedestal - new backing plates, new pulley).


----------



## nikos

The truck to tow the ST4.
On the road, Inside the oval circle you can see the leaks.

In the way to the big Garage, where the Good Guys working.


----------



## nikos

The first Night - treament receive, and the cheaking into the (hospital) sorry the Big Garage 

Nikos


----------



## nikos

The first night - treatment receive, and the cheaking into the (hospital) sorry the big garage.
Sometimes the ambulance need service

Nikos


----------



## nikos

The days of the preparation ( before the surgery).

I choose to pull the engine by this way. At least i change all the old and rust bolts.

Nikos


----------



## nikos

The days of the preparation ( before the surgery) 
I choose to pull the engine by this way. At least i change, all the old and rusty bolts. 

Nikos


----------



## nikos

From the beginning, thanks to you guys, we knew, where the problem was
and the first thing was to change and replace these parts (Engine seal Kit).

a) The Valve covers of the heater box with the new valve cover gaskets
b) The Oil Cooler Seals
c) The main Oil Seal in the Clutch
d) New Oil sump plate,
e) and the seal of the pupm cover behind the crankshaft pulley.

Nikos


----------



## nikos

The parts the covers, and the engine.

Nikos


----------



## nikos

The Valve cover, the rocker arms that hold the pushrod tubes, and the bolts of the  remouving metal wire spring.

Next step : Clean up all the surfaces on the engine (cylinder head and the case)

Nikos


----------



## nikos

Step by step

After we had to remove the old seals and replace the old push rod tubes
the installation of the new parts (seals and push rod tubes) Everything is putting back together. The adjustment of the rocker arms and the right measurments on the metal wire spring in both of the cylinders.

Nikos


----------



## nikos

Next step : Clean Up the surface on the crankcase.
Replace the old Oil Cooler Seals and the Pump Cover seals with the new one.


----------



## nikos

New seals on the Oil Sump plate, after we clean the filter from the mud.

NIkos


----------



## nikos

The Lady and the Duke

Nikos


----------



## 3512b

Great job! Once you get started it hard to stop!
As soon as I get my Tracy and varator done going to start on my engine


----------



## nikos

3512b said:


> Great job! Once you get started it hard to stop!
> As soon as I get my Tracy and varator done going to start on my engine



Hey Steve from Anchorage
How are you? 
I know about your progress on " So What have you done with your Snow Trac today" 

http://www.forumsforums.com/3_9/showthread.php?t=72203

My progress has started on January 20th.  November - December and twenty days of January, the ST4 was sitting, next to the shed with the tractors.
The Winter was Wet and Worm.
The repairs of the Seasons, The project "No More Oil Leaks" finished on May 2016. Sooner or Later, step by step, Everything has a beginning and an Ending.
*Thanks to you guy*s, thanks to the amazing source of information, of the knowlege,  the ideas, and the specific restorations - maintenance, in this FORUMS, everything is possible.

Nikos


----------



## nikos

The Black beauty.


----------



## 3512b

I doing good now!
No hello rides in my future for now!
Thanks for the oi slump no platforms for a bit!

But Tracy going together today and I got a set of drive sprockets from Mike that was in my yard at one time when the Keini Kat was on its way south
At least a part of it got back to Alaska!

Looks like the chains were run loose pulled the Sprockets a bit
I working on getting some spares remade we see how much money it takes

Hers the pictures you mite have to flit em


----------



## 3512b

And the sprockets


----------



## nikos

3512b said:


> I doing good now!
> No hello rides in my future for now!
> Thanks for the oi slump no platforms for a bit!
> 
> But Tracy going together today and I got a set of drive sprockets from Mike that was in my yard at one time when the Keini Kat was on its way south
> At least a part of it got back to Alaska!
> 
> Looks like the chains were run loose pulled the Sprockets a bit
> I working on getting some spares remade we see how much money it takes
> 
> Hers the pictures you mite have to flit em



Steve Thank you for the picture


----------



## nikos

In the meantime, next to shed, i was working on the ST4,  cleaning the area close and inside the bell housing, and of course to take a look on the Starter (gear etc) when i pulled it out.  Also a checking at the small bronze cylinder Bushing Kit on the bell housing. 

Next The chain and the sprockets. Everything was ok
The only think i didn't, is to pull the variator discs, to check and to pull the bearings out. (Too busy maybe some other time)

Nikos


----------



## nikos

Next to the shed.
Fitting the cables and the other parts. 

Nikos


----------



## nikos

How it looks


----------



## nikos

New rotor,  new cable distributor, the Cup, and The* Good Guys* in the garage (Vangelis and Aris )

Nikos


----------



## redsqwrl

Great update and nice work.


----------



## nikos

Some new parts on the exhaust pipe


----------



## nikos

From the stock
The new arrival. A pair of Trelleborg tyres 4.00 X 4
I need to order another one pair  (next months)

Nikos


----------



## nikos

The New Tyres BKT 8181 4.50 - 16   4 Ply.
(Two months ago).


----------



## nikos

For the new tyres i need a Track Jack.
A homemade Track Jack, something like these.

Nikos


----------



## nikos

In the local Machinery Workshop (Two Weeks Ago)
A small sketch with the right measurements and dimensions, 
and the homemade Track Jack is here.

Nikos


----------



## nikos

How it looks
My Homemade Track Jack. 

Nikos


----------



## nikos

Removing the rubber track to comming off.

At this Time i am working on the rubber track, ( Guides) left side,  trying to find the damages, some of them are broken and they need to be fixed in a straight line ( Not to damage the new tyres).

Nikos


----------



## nikos

The process on the rubber track. 
In the circles the broken parts.

Nikos


----------



## nikos

Working on the Guides. After a closer look i realize that:
Five or Six of them, had some old steel - weld residues, and its necessary to grinding the surfaces, because they can damage the new tyres
And also some of the guides (two or three), are broken.

The left side is ok. 

Nikos


----------



## nikos

Using the the optical  method of the perspective lines and the vanishing point to find the damaged guides. 

Nikos


----------



## Beartooth

nikos what material was used for your track jack? looks like 1inch square with either 1/2 all thread or 3/4 all thread, how did it work? i was thinking of welding one nut hard and fast so that a ratchet or power could be used to tighten  the all thread bolt.

doug


----------



## nikos

Hey Doug
Sorry for my late reply. Forgive me It's summertime but i know .......
 the Winter is comming.

The material of my  Homemade Track Jack

1) Two metal square bars A + C       4cm
2) Two Stainless Steel threaded bar nuts B1 + B2     2cm
3)  Four Nuts      4cm

The one metal square bar A, and the two stainles steel threaded bar nuts B1  + B2 are attached together (Welding) in one piece.

The second metal square bar C is forced by the two NUTS in a paraller motion.
We have two forces. F1 +F2.    
F1 against F2 and it works perfectly.

Nikos


----------



## undy

Beartooth,
You may already know this, but Acme thread would be the ideal thread for this.  I'm not sure where you are, but I get it cheap from Surplus Center in Nebraska.  
As you suggested, I always weld one nut onto the threaded rod and it makes it easier to use.


----------



## nikos

Sorry i think we use four types of forces
The plan sketch shows the forces F1, F2,F3,F4.

F1 = Vertical Force
F2 = Ground Reaction Force
F3 = The effect of the F1 + F2
F4= The horizontal tensional Force

F1+F2+F3 are stable and they reacting from the horizontal motion of the  tensional force F4.

 F4 acting to F1+F2+F3

Nikos


----------



## boscardi

Hello to all, I have the exact same vehicle here in La Thuile, Italy.  I use it for advertisment for our bar on the slopes, named Lo Ratrak -look us up on facebook.  Unfortunately I lost - or someone stole - a whole wheel during the summer rim included, so I need to replace it ASAP before the first snow. If any of you has one available, please let me know, I really need it, Thank You! PS: if available, I also need a variator belt because the one I have mounted is on its way out! Contact me directly if preferred, onlyski@lathuile.it


----------



## boscardi

Hello, I would like to know if spare parts are still available for a snow trac t4 I believe, in particular I need wheels and a variator belt. Couild you let me know, thank you!


----------



## nikos

About the Mysterious Wrench D. 

A = Villi's Tool
B= Homemade Track Jack
C= Homemade Hand Crank
D= The "Unusual" Wrench

*THANKS to NWERRING*

Well  i think  it works fine on both of the variator Nuts -Screws. With this tool, its easy to count how many turns (in the same amount) you can make, on each Nuts- Screws. 

(photos) How the Wrench, Fits on the Upper and the Lower Nut - Screw.

Nikos


----------



## nikos

The EXTRA ADD - SIDE EXTEND on the main exhaust pipe 

When i had to replace the Trelleborg - Big Wheels with the new ones, i realized that the source of the old tires, the three of them were OEM, and the other one, as you know is coming from the BMW Spare tire ok.
The Fourth OEM tire, that it was missing, it was behind the exhaust pipe.
We made a discussion with the "Guys" in the garage, and the conclusion is that.

After a long period in a face close to the hot fumes, the forth trelleborg tire getting hard, losing the elastic characteristic and broke in many place, through the movements among the guides.

So with the new tires BKT, an extra add it was necessary, a side Extend on the main pipe Exhaust, in the way to the back.

Nikos


----------



## SnowTrac Hunter

snowtrac jim said:


> hi Nikos i have st4/1575.had no look finding correct tires.but have fitted two tires at the back. off BMW space saver spare wheel.continental 115/90/16. these are only single ply.but run high psi.cheep at scrap yards maybe better hard foam filled.most of weight is on the front wheels.i fitted puncher proof mobility scooter tires also cheep second hand.ps Iam in England.



Do you have the model # for the rims? I am in bad need of a replacement. My drivers side wheel had a major meltdown. 

Thanks,
Joe


----------



## nikos

SnowTrac Hunter said:


> Do you have the model # for the rims? I am in bad need of a replacement. My drivers side wheel had a major meltdown.
> 
> Thanks,
> Joe



Dear Joe 
I know how you feel about the broken rear rim in your ST4.
I am thinking that your problem, it will become (its possible)  and my problem in the next years. So i must try to find something that is similar or equivalent with the original equipment manufacturers (oems) of this type of rims. As you Know I am not leaving in the North Countries with so many Snowtracs, and sometimes i am  looking like a lonely Cow Boy in my Country. At this moment i didnt have any answer, not either some any extra sources. But i will find a solution for the rims ( soon ) from the agriculture manufacturers in my home town.

As for the BMW Tyre, the type is  CONTINENTAL 116/ 90  R16. 
The rim also in the photo it  is only  for the car. (You can see the difference) 

Joe i hope that i help you.

Nikos


----------



## SnowTrac Hunter

Thanks Nikos. Working with Don a.k.a. SnowTrac Nome to replace what I have currently. 

Is this the E46 tire that is on Ebay for UK? Can't seem to find it available in the U.S., although it seems to be readily available in Europe. 

Tried contacting the Anchorage BMW dealership, but have not had any reply yet.

Thanks,
Joe


----------



## SnowTrac Hunter

nikos said:


> Dear Joe
> I know how you feel about the broken rear rim in your ST4.
> I am thinking that your problem, it will become (its possible)  and my problem in the next years. So i must try to find something that is similar or equivalent with the original equipment manufacturers (oems) of this type of rims. As you Know I am not leaving in the North Countries with so many Snowtracs, and sometimes i am  looking like a lonely Cow Boy in my Country. At this moment i didnt have any answer, not either some any extra sources. But i will find a solution for the rims ( soon ) from the agriculture manufacturers in my home town.
> 
> As for the BMW Tyre, the type is  CONTINENTAL 116/ 90  R16.
> The rim also in the photo it  is only  for the car. (You can see the difference)
> 
> Joe i hope that i help you.
> 
> Nikos



 Just spoke with BMW of Anchorage - Tire is not available in U.S. - Aargh, frustrating.


----------



## nikos

*BRAKE ISSUES - BRAKE FLUID LEAK*

Last winter in the end of the season, i realized that the brake pedal was sinking toward to the floor.
The fluid level in the reservoir was little bit low.
I didnt have the time and the opportunity  to fix the problem. (Only first Aid)
But now these days, on September the weather and the temperature are perfect so the project began.

1)  Thanks to the guys (Lyndon and Cidertom) I tried to find the solution, AND 
what i have to deal with on.

http://www.forumsforums.com/3_9/showthread.php?t=9181

http://www.forumsforums.com/3_9/showthread.php?t=69660

I have to remind you that i have the model - 
the Νew Style with the Big Wheel - 3 Belt Snow trac.
The problems on the brake system are:

 a) in the master cylinder ( the Gommet rubber plug seal is broken)
 b) The right rubber hose to the wheel cylinder (this part in years became a solid part)  

so the rubber lines in the both sides of the drums didnt works.

to be continued.....

Nikos


----------



## nikos

I fix the rubber line BUT the Drum didn't work. Only the Handbreak. 
( I think, both of  the brake cylinders, and also the Master Cylinder needs to be replaced) 

SO Two Days ago.
a) I remove the Skid pan from the bottom, and the plates - the firewall panels fits in front of the engine on the ST4.

b) Then the Muffler.

nikos


----------



## nikos

The left Brake centre, with the brake shoes, the brake lining in good condition.

I dont know what about the brake cylinder and the rust Push rod screw.


----------



## nikos

Then the right brake centre.
The only problem was the right castle nut,............. but with this type of wrench Number 32, its ok.

....next mission the master cylinder.

I will check in which condition are the brake cylinders, 
(The new set cost 60 Euro) but i have good friends

to be continued ..........

nikos


----------



## luvthemvws

That master cylinder looks just like an early 1960s VW Bus item. Pretty cheap at most parts outlets. I suspect the slave cylinders have a similar provenance.


----------



## nikos

luvthemvws said:


> That master cylinder looks just like an early 1960s VW Bus item. Pretty cheap at most parts outlets. I suspect the slave cylinders have a similar provenance.



The Master Cylinder and the brake Cylinder.

Nikos


----------



## JimVT

I remember just buying a couple brake kits and using the needed parts.


----------



## nikos

JimVT said:


> I remember just buying a couple brake kits and using the needed parts.



Me Too.
A couple of packages  in my store (VW spare parts)  that i bought only, for any occasion to use.

Nikos


----------



## sno-drifter

This is what a serious collector does, good show.


----------



## nikos

The Surgical team 

a) An Architect withMaster's degree - Designer, and  3d printer constructor. (Black Blouse)
b) A Truck Driver (Red Blouse)
c) An Assistant (Indigo blue blouse) 
d) And Me of Course.

From the beginning we decide not to move the Pulleys and the variator belt, so we started to remove the parts behind them.
The most difficult part was the spring, how to remove it from the master cylinder. 
Then the base of the Master cylinder. There is no space between these parts. You have to remove first the base and then the Master cylinder.


----------



## Cidertom

After the second time I had to get in there, I removed the cowling and installed stainless steel rivnuts in the body.  Now it takes about 5 minutes to get that piece of sheet metal out of the way.  About that long to re-install.


----------



## nikos

In the local Truck Repair - Brake Center shop.

In the workshop, before i started  to order the new spare parts, i decide to check the condition of the master cylinder and also the brakes cylinder. 

The results of this meeting were very interesting. 
1) The master cylinder was not  in great condition. We removed all the parts and as you can see, :
 A) Return Spring 
A1) Check Valve
B) Stop Plate
C) Lock Ring
D) Piston
D1) Secondary Cup
E) Washer
F) Main Cup
G) Washer.

Except the dirt inside the housing, we decide
1) to replace the Main Cap, 
2) to Fix the Check Valve
3) To replace the Secondary Cup on the Piston.
4) and of course to clean  the Housing.

After that treatment, the brake cylinder works like new.


----------



## nikos

Next the brakes cylinders.

Both of them were in bad condition, and it was necessary to replace them.
The damage as you can see with the oval shape, inside the cylinder.


----------



## nikos

The Brake System - Circuit before photo A+B 
and after (C+D) with the new Brake Cylinders. 
The Brake Shoes are in good shape, but i had to replace the broken right Connecting Link in A + D  photo, and to clean the all the parts, like 
(The return spring and the area close to the adjuster screw and the anchor block ).
I like that color,  in the brake system. I had the opportunity to refresh the  color but i didn't.


----------



## nikos

The Brake Cylinder and the Brake Center installation.


----------



## nikos

The Summer is Here.
Sunny Weather in Greece, almost 37 C and no clouds.:shitHitFan
Anyway after the fall of equinox the days are not longer than nights,  (The Winter is comming. )  So i am in the process to assembly this time the Webasto Heater in the Snow trac. I am working in this project since last year. The Heater is working fine with no problem, only i have a subject with the Fuel Pump. The Hardi E57 12V Fuel Pump needs a new selenoid diaphragm and now i am trying to find and replace with a new one.  Any Ideas what kind of rubber material can i use if i can't find the same diaphragm in the market ?

Have a nice time.

Nikos


----------



## nikos

Last Summer in my workshop


----------



## nikos

I am not good  with the electrical systems, Fuse, cables, switch etc  (Nobady is perfect )  so a friend of mine, helps me in this way.  The photo with the deferent parts of the Webasto Heater.

A = The electric Fuel pupm Hardi E57.
B = The Fuel covernor - Fuel regulator with the fuel electro - magnetic valve.
C = Control Switch.
D = Front Envelope.
E = The cover of the overheating switch.
F = J unction box with the Fuse box.
G = Casing - Outlet Hood.
H = Base 
I = The Heat exchanger, the electric motor with the air blower, 
       also the intake pipe the exchaust pipe.
J= Heater plug.
K = Thermo switch.
L = Rear envelope.


----------



## nikos

The Fuel covernor - Fuel regulator with the fuel electromagnetic valve.


----------



## nikos

The Overheating Coil on the Overheating Switch.


----------



## nikos

Juction Box with the Fuse Box.


----------



## nikos

Cable conection (Overheating Coil )


----------



## nikos

The electrical Fuel Pump. It works pertect, but i need a new selenoid valve.


----------



## nikos

The Webasto Heater. Today. Thanks to my Friend Sakis. I hope to find the right missing part for the fuel pump in the next days, weeks or months. 

Nikos.


----------



## nikos

Yesterday 
Snowfall from Storm "Sophia"  in Florina Greece.

Nikos


----------



## nikos

Heavy Snowfall. January 2017.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NKmyM60A6Yk"]snow trac  night ride in 2017 0001 - YouTube[/ame]

Nikos


----------



## nikos

The Problem with the OMG VDO Speedometer in my Snowtrac.

My Odometer has stopped working (Since Last Year) but the speedometer still works.

I had to remove the VDO from the dashboard,  tried to understand  how it works  and then to find the failure.

You can see the Removing parts (Retaining outer Ring, The housing, the odometer drive with speedometer mechanism, the drive shaft the metalic worm gears and the worm wheels).

After that i realized that the main failure point was the on the metalic worm Gears  (B) even it works fine, it doesn,t  connect and turn the worm wheel D the drive shaft of the odometer.

I fix the problem with the screw A that hold the Worm Gears B and C, and also lubricate the wheels and the Gears. 

Yesterday  i place the VDO on the dushboard and everything works fine.

Nikos


----------



## nikos

Hello Guys. 
In this Video there is the final test of the VW Eberspacher gazoline heater after the fully restoration. The main problem was on the fuel pump (dry Diaphragm). I had order a new one, and after the cleanning and painting of the inside - outside parts, the electro mechanical technician got it in Fire up (Two Weeks ago) and here are the results.
The fumes are too clean, everythings works fine  and the temperatures a) of the exhaust out let and b) of  the hot air  out let were in the right level. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rokmHNjUjvs&t=4s


Nikos


----------



## DAVENET

That's awesome you got it all sorted!


----------



## nikos

DAVENET said:


> That's awesome you got it all sorted!



The parts of the Eberspacher Gas Heater.

A = The electric Fuel pupm Hardi E57.
B = The Fuel covernor - Fuel regulator with the fuel electro - magnetic valve.
C = Control Switch.
D = Front Envelope.
E = The cover of the overheating switch.
F = J unction box with the Fuse box.
G = Casing - Outlet Hood.
H = Base 
I = The Heat exchanger, the electric motor with the air blower, 
also the intake pipe the exchaust pipe.
J= Heater plug.
K = Thermo switch.
L = Rear envelope.

Thanks to my Friend Sakis the heater is now Fanctional. I am very Satisfied of this restoration, even it took me 1 and 1/2 years to find the right diaphragm  for the fuel pump. As you can see the other parts of the Eberspacher Heater are in good condition. (The Fan , the heater plug, the electomagnetic  valve, the swithes of the housing, the  compustion and the precondition chumper in the casing, works fine.) 

I Know this type of Heater has techology and design from late of 70s, and it has nothing to do with the new models  llike Webasto 12 - 24Volt heaters, that we can find in the market.   

When i bought the Snow Trac in 2010 -11 The eberspacher Gas heater was there inside the cabin. Today is still there, but it works now. 

Nikos


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## nikos

In the Final Test we noticed that there was a small leak of fuel in the end of the Fuel Pipe,  close to the fuel Governor - fuel Regulator. 
The next movement was to replase the old fuel pipe with a new one.

Next to my door, there is a Refrigerator Repair Service, and another friend help me, with his Knowledge.
No Cost.

Just too many Friends = Too many Snow Adventures with the Snow trac 

Nikos


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## nikos

The Heater installation inside the ST4 Cabin.


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## nikos

.....and of course the Shield ( fom the hot fumes +-130C of the eberspacher  exhaust ) under the left fender.

Nikos.


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## nikos

Thats all guys with the  happy end Story of the Eberspacher Gas Heater. 


........................but the SUMMMER in GREECE is Just MAGIC. 

to all my Friends on the Forum. HAVE A NICE TIME with your Family and your  close friends.

THE WINTER IS COMING 

Nikos


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## nikos

The Summer in Greece is too Hot. Today 42 C
I need a cooler

....and of cource Vocation.

BTW. The fotos are from Chalkidiki.  North Greece. 

Nikos.


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## nikos

i think is better now.

Nikos


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## nikos

nikos said:


> i think is better now.
> 
> Nikos



 i miss The Foto


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## PJL

You look like you are managing just fine at the beach.


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## JimVT

PJL said:


> You look like you are managing just fine at the beach.



could it be the snow trac?


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## nikos

PJL said:


> You look like you are managing just fine at the beach.




As possible as i can.
Sun Care protection, Sexy women's fashion swimsuits, great sea food, light and sweet types of wine, cold drinks, swimming etc.
The Sun is  shining, the light and colors are also bright. Its a great season.

But i prefer and i feel more comfortable in the winter time, when i am covered like this.  By the way i am living in a mountainous region. 

From the Sea level 0 feet, to the top of the mountain 6100 feet.

Nikos.


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## nikos

JimVT said:


> could it be the snow trac?



Jim Yes it could be. 
I have great plans for the Snow Trac in the winter. 
I have found too many trails on the mountains area, with the snowmobile, and i will try to approach some of them with my friends. 
With the snowmobile i feel more safety, because if something happend with the ST4 in the trails (Flat tyres, fuels, etc ) i will have the opportunity to fix it.

Nikos


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## nikos

I am thinking. 

Stainless Steel Flue Pipes or ...........


Nikos


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## nikos

The Air Sheet Metal Duct of the  Eberspacher Heater  Before / After.


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## nikos

An Extra Air Outlet Pipe. 

I'll cut the pipe, its too long and also i have to adjust at the end a Rotating Ball Type Air Outlet.


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## nikos

The Project (Heater Eberspacher ) is still in progress.

A) An Extra Steel Gus Tank  3 Litr
B) A new Fuel Line (including a Fuel Filter, a Fuel tank Robinet, and Some Swivel Hose End Fittings. Just in Case ).

Nikos


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## JimVT

nikos I want to message you but your message box is full.


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## nikos

Just checking the steering, the bearing carrier, the bearings and the grease port.

Nikos


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## Snowy Rivers

Looks great....

I love the little heater unit....

The should be quite adequate to make the cab toasty warm


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## nikos

Snowy Rivers said:


> Looks great....
> 
> I love the little heater unit....
> 
> The should be quite adequate to make the cab toasty warm



About the Heater, it works, and makes the cabin too warm.....Well at this point  ....
 it's time to start a new thread, which has to do with the insulation inside the cabin.


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## nikos

Few mounths ago as you can see above in the fotos, i checked the left ballbearing 51110 on the variator and everything  was OK. Now i want to check and if is necessery to replace  the right ballbearing 51110 N54 under the bearing holder N56 in the RIGHT side of the variator.

I want your opinion. 
Which is the best procedure - method to do it

Just  To separate the two Link arms (ST1033) N49 and to unbolt all the nuts, the bushings the split pins, and the washers......or something else

Thanks Nikos


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## nikos

Thanks Thomas Williams, for the quick reply.

Thomas told me to remove first the pin 50 and then the others nuts, to separate the Link Arms.


This part, (the right side of the pulleys) on the Variator it was the only part that i haven’t checked till yesterday.

I noticed that the Variator isn't working properly. I saw that the ball bearing holder, rotates along with the pulleys, and compresses the belt.

I sign of a damaged ball bearing ( 51110).

As you can see, (Foto n2) the race inside the ball bearing holder is a little bit abused from the rolling elements.
I used a propane torch to separete the rase from the upper variator pulley. (Foto n4 )

After replacing the new ball bearing, (51110) I cleaned all the parts, and installed them on the Variator as it was before.
(You can see the sign on the bearing holder from the Link Arms.  - Foto n6 ). 

Nikos.


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## nikos

Test Drive.


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## nikos

I am almost ready to hit the Slopes
The perfect Ski Rack for my Snow Trac.
The fotos are from last year. 
Now i have another ski rack in the right side.  

Nikos


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## Snowy Rivers

Nice looking rack setup.
Looks like you have about everything you could want strapped onto the rack as well as Skis.


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## nikos

Snowy Rivers said:


> Nice looking rack setup.
> Looks like you have about everything you could want strapped onto the rack as well as Skis.


I didn't put all the nessecery equipment onto the Ski rack, like the Ski boots and some other things. 
The fuels are more comfortable and safe there.  
I have also the Roof Rack for use.
The Left side onto the ski rack is for the Fuels and the Right side is for The tools and the Phama Box -First Aid Kit

Nikos


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## nikos

Where is the Snow right now?


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## DAVENET

Finally getting our first measurable snow (4-6") this morning in southern NH.  Definitely been a slow start this year . . .


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## PJL

nikos said:


> Where is the Snow right now?


Right here.








						Washington's Snoqualmie Pass just shattered a 20-year snowfall record
					

Washington's weather system sure gave us an end to 2021 that we'll never forget, and snowfall on Snoqualmie Pass just broke a record.




					curiocity.com


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