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Project Dual

Blackfoot Tucker

Well-known member
GOLD Site Supporter
When we started on Thundercat the goals were fairly simple and benign, but one thing led to another... and pretty soon things had gotten well out of hand (emphasis on "well”). In every project I’ve ever done there are "woulda, shoulda, couldas”, essentially things that in retrospect you wish you’d done differently. (A prime example is painting CHUGSzilla green. That’s one I’ll regret until the day I die.)

Some of those decisions can't be revisited, but sometimes one can go back and make changes, and that’s what project dual is all about. Back when we started the project I had a lot more regard for Tucker’s way of doing things, and I wanted to keep some of the “vibe”, so I was okay with a single exhaust running up the passenger front door post.

One of the signature upgrades on Thundercat is all the custom bent rigid steel lines for the front blade, the steering system, the engine oil cooler, transmission fluid cooler and the hydraulic fluid cooler. Then you add fuel supply and return-to-tank lines, and let's not forget the rear hydraulic winch. There are a lot of lines, and they take up a fair amount of space.

Not much room for a dual exhaust system to run out the back.

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But this wasn’t a problem so much with the single exhaust system. However, under hood heat was a big problem and we tried to mitigate that by ceramic coating the exhaust manifolds, exhaust pipes and muffler, and we wrapped the exhaust system under the hood with a thermal exhaust wrap. Those measures might have helped a little, but not nearly what their manufacturers claim.

This is an example of under hood heat. Look at the green plastic of the hydraulic clamp. Yeah, that thermal wrap on the exhaust pipe is really helping…NOT!

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The biggest issue though is the poor engine can’t breathe very well, and that causes more heat, and less performance from the engine.

Anyone who has experienced a Tucker with that exhaust layout knows that with the front passenger window open at all, you get an earful of exhaust noise. And with an engine of almost 500 cubic inches, there is a significant volume of exhaust gasses. After SV 2022 Scott and I talked about modifying the system, but Scott wasn’t in favor and:

A.) It’s a bunch of work.

B.) Lot’s of changes to rigid steel lines

c.) You’re going backward, not forward.

D.) More money.

E.) We have to finish CHUGSzilla and the 1544.

So nothing happened…. Fast forward to SV 2024 and we had the formidable tag team of Travler and PP on our case about the single exhaust. CHUGSzilla and the 1544 are gone and that expensive ceramic coating is flaking off the exhaust… after maybe 30 hours of use (talk about disappointing). So we had motivation….

Ceramic coating...

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It was time to revisit the exhaust system. The present configuration uses 2 1/2” diameter pipe from both cylinder heads that merge into a single 3” exhaust pipe. Thinking back to high school geometry, a 2 1/2” diameter circle has an area of 4.91 square inches. But there are two, so it’s 9.82 square inches. Then we cram that into a 3” diameter tube which has an area of 7.07 square inches. Those exhaust gasses are fighting for space, and choking the poor engine in the process. The plan is to create a true dual exhaust system with 3” diameter tubing. Exiting the exhaust manifolds at 3” instead of 2 1/2” is a 44% improvement in surface area, and as there is no merge, the improvement is 100% in comparison to the existing setup. There is potential for heat reduction and increased performance as well.

To GM’s credit, the exhaust manifold bolt pattern on the Big Block Chevy never changed. Any BBC exhaust manifold will bolt up to the 8.1’s cylinder heads. While that gives us lots of options, none that I have found meet the parameters of our application needs. PP and Travler were strongly in favor of custom stainless steel headers, but those can be accurately described as Spendy. (Capital S!) One of the things we’re proud of is we did the vast majority of the work on Thundercat ourselves. It’s a “built, not bought machine” and a set of custom stainless steel headers gets away from that.

The vast majority of exhaust manifolds are made of heavy cast iron. The stock manifolds on the 8.1 are stainless steel castings and we decided to do some cutting, piecing and welding to create a set of custom manifolds that meet our needs. I’ll also mention that over the years I’ve bought many sets of headers and every single one leaked after a while. Every one. Maybe custom stainless ones would be better, but so far aftermarket headers are batting .000 with me. I swear at them, not by them, and in my experience any performance gains are more than offset negatively by the ass-pain they bring. Finding used 8.1 manifolds on ebay is not difficult, and they aren’t terribly expensive, either. We’re only looking to harvest some pieces anyway, so they don’t need to be perfect.

A set of stock 8.1 Vortec exhaust manifolds.

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Scott and I talked about different options for where to cut, where to join, where do we want the exhaust to dump out... and eventually it was time to start cutting. He was concerned about making a mistake and I was like “If we do, I’ll get another manifold… no big deal”. So out came the angle grinder and cutoff wheel.

You might think that the general manifold layout would be very similar from side to side. That the manifolds protrude the same distance from the cylinder heads and the shape and size of the runners would be nearly identical. But, you’d be wrong. We cut the front cylinder portion off the left exhaust manifold and chopped off the rear cylinder of the right manifold and positioned the components alongside each other. They didn’t match up well at all. We knew it wouldn’t be easy, but still the differences were surprising. So, Scott cut that left front section apart and cut a small pie shaped piece out to better align the respective components. Then he first tack welded them together, and then filled in the considerable gaps to join them.

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The next step will be to figure out exactly where, how long, and at what angle do we want the exit flange to be, and then how best to cut the respective parts to achieve our objectives. It’s kind of fun and challenging, but there is considerable difficulty, too.

Who knows, we may be turning perfectly good manifolds into piles of scrap and end up with those custom stainless headers after all. But we’re going to try our way first. One thing I’ve learned through years of working with Scott is: Never Underestimate The Gorilla!
 

Pontoon Princess

Cattitute
GOLD Site Supporter
thundercat custom headers from the shops of gorilla inc.

remember the whole purpose of this exercise is to BREATHE with ease
 
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Travler

Active member
GOLD Site Supporter
BFT , I looked at my cat this afternoon Steve says he can build some Stainless headers for my cat , he looked at the exhaust on that thing , his comment was how does that thing even breath
 

Blackfoot Tucker

Well-known member
GOLD Site Supporter
BFT , I looked at my cat this afternoon Steve says he can build some Stainless headers for my cat , he looked at the exhaust on that thing , his comment was how does that thing even breath
Having met Steve, he struck me as someone who could fabricate just about anything, and do a helluva good job.

But what's there is, believe it or not, an improvement over the way it left the factory. What follows is from a previous post about the 1544's exhaust system. This was written just prior to SV 2021, the 1544's second trip to SV. It has the distinction of making it to every one!

"So after getting all, this done, fluids topped off, etc we took it out for testing along with the DMC 1450 that we have also been preparing to take to SV 2021. The 1544 ran much better than it had, but the exhaust system seemed way too restrictive. Despite having just replaced the old muffler with one the same diameter, the exhaust seemed to be strangling the engine's attempts to breathe. The solution was to modify the exhaust system using bigger components. But time was incredibly short…
The stock Tucker system uses 2 1/4” diameter pipe and a 2 1/4” diameter inlet and outlet on the muffler. Remembering high school geometry formulas, calculating the area of a circle is Pi x radius squared. Up-sizing to 2 1/2” components gets you a 23.5% increase in area. Hmmmm, is that enough? Using 2 3/4” components increases the area by 49.4%. That seemed better, but I couldn’t find a muffler with the proper sized inlet and outlet dimensions. Going up to 3” yields a 77.8% increase. That’s a hefty increase and we decided to err on the side of going bigger. But all this was determined late on Saturday afternoon and everything had to be wrapped up before we leave for Sun Valley Wednesday morning. Uh Oh…not much time.

We decided to go for it and cut off the existing exhaust system at the point the crossover pipe from the left manifold intersects with the pipe from the right side. I would hopefully find an exhaust shop on Monday that could bend the tube to basically match what we had, but using 3” diameter pipe. Then we’d install it Monday evening. I was most fortunate to find a shop that met the challenge and they did a nice job. The chances of everything fitting perfectly were close to zero, so we anticipated we might have to do some minor tweaking, and that proved to be the case. But we got it all wrapped up, though there is no heat shield installed as yet.
My description above makes it sound pretty simple, but I assure you there’s a fair bit more to it to get everything aligned just so. There is also the issue of grafting on a 3” diameter pipe to where two smaller pipes met. Scott solved the problem by using his acetylene torch and a pair of pliers. He would heat the area of the pipe intersection until red hot and carefully bend the edges to get them as close as possible to a round 3” diameter. As long as any irregularities were small, he could make that up in the welding process…and he did exactly that

Here are pics after it was complete.

Front view. Note the old exhaust system laying on the trailer deck in the foreground. That’s what I took to the exhaust shop.

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Side view

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And here are some pics of the exhaust system the way we got the machine.

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Taken at SV 2020.

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Blackfoot Tucker

Well-known member
GOLD Site Supporter
I received some PMs and texts after my first post. There is no doubt that with deep pockets, one can build a better machine.

But this project has been done without opening the checkbook (too much), and the vast, vast majority of the work has been done by Scott and me, not a group of professionals. This is what two admitted knuckleheads could do with the limited resources they had.

The bent steel lines I showed in a pic in the first post were bent without the benefit of a power bender. They were done with a hand bender and Gorilla arm strength. It took us a ridiculous amount of time to make those, but we (Scott) did them, and that’s typical of just about everything. Here’s a pic of a similar bender.
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Starting day two on the project, we took a hard look at the right exhaust manifold setup installed on Thundercat, and discussed where, and at what angle we wanted the exit flange to be positioned on the new manifold. Then more discussion of the best way to do that.

Scott had previously cut off the rear cylinder’s runner as well as the outlet flange. On the right exhaust manifold, GM had incorporated a protrusion in the casting near the outlet flange for a connection to the exhaust gas recirculation system. We had removed that system entirely from the engine prior to installing it, and had no use for the connection port. Scott used an angle grinder and cutoff wheel and chopped off that connection port and more of the residual outlet flange casting to get it closer in shape to what we needed. Then he cut away parts of the newly modified exhaust manifold to mate with the outlet flange casting. Larger pieces at first, followed by increasingly smaller pieces to get the two components to fit together. If I said “chopping followed by whittling”, that would be an accurate description.

The modified manifold after some additional cutting. You can see the EGR port to the left. (With a block off plate we had made before we abandoned the stock manifolds several years ago.) I should mention that these posts, and the pics, are of the "sausage making" process. Rest assured, the final installed product will look different than what you see here. There are many steps involved, and at times things look pretty ugly.
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Chopping and whittling. The outlet flange casting is on the left.

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To give some credit where it's due (“some” was used so Scott’s head doesn't swell even more) I was stunned by how closely he got the parts to fit. No big gaps to fill at all.

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Another view.

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Then it was a matter of welding the two together. He did some clean up of the welds, but most was left for me to do. (Note, this is how it looked when we stopped on day two, but we subsequently went back and made some revisions. Those will be discussed in a later post, along with a pic of the re-modified manifold.)

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I’m good with that as I’ll spend more time trying to finesses the blending of the multiple components. The Gorilla largely doesn’t care about the look, as long as something works… and I care about function and how it looks. If you’re old enough to remember the TV show MASH, you might recall a term Hawkeye Pierce once used to describe what they did at the MASH 4077th: “meatball surgery”. Well, Scott is the able meatball surgeon, and I’m the cosmetic surgeon who cleans up his work.

Incidentally, I normally write my posts in draft form and share them with Scott prior to posting. He takes exception to my use of the term “meatball surgery”. He thinks of himself as a "precision surgeon”. No, I’m not kidding. I can just picture a woman coming to "Dr. Scott” to have a small mole removed from her face. After later removing the bandages she’s horrified to see a crater where the mole had been. “Dr. Scott’s” reply? “Ah just use a little more makeup. No one will be able to tell.” “Precision surgeon”, indeed….

At this point the night was still young, so why not start removing the exhaust system and manifolds from Thundercat? As I mentioned in the first post, the under hood portion of the exhaust piping had been wrapped with a thermal heat wrap. Installing the wrap in place was a PITA job as you were working with a long length of material that had to wrapped around and around and around the pipes as each successive wrap overlapped the previous one. We anticipated removing it would be another PITA task. Very surprisingly, the stuff broke apart easily and there was no unwrapping to speak of. It literally came apart in our hands. If you are considering using this stuff, you probably would reconsider after seeing how badly it had deteriorated.

A pic of some thermal wrap scraps. (There are a bunch of smaller pieces on the floor.)

IMG_0440 2.jpeg


But then things took a turn for the worse. We needed to remove the exhaust manifolds from the engine. The 8.1 Vortec engine is known for having issues with the fasteners that secure the exhaust manifolds to the cylinder heads. Knowing this, I had bought ARP fasteners for the job. ARP claims their fasteners are “substantially stronger than Grade 8 fasteners”. The forward bolt on the right side did not cooperate. Scott started to loosen it and it stuck. He tightened it a bit, and then stopped midway between stuck and tight. Right now that's where we’re stopped. We sprayed the bolt liberally with WD-40 before calling it a night. While grabbing food after working, we talked about how best to proceed. I don’t care so much about the existing exhaust manifold, and I’m fine sacrificing it if that helps us get the problematic ARP bolt out without damaging the cylinder head. Scott wants to save the manifold. Why?

Stay tuned for the next update. Will the less than dynamic duo prevail over the recalcitrant bolt? (When I wrote “recalcitrant", why did I automatically think of The Infamous WBJ1?)
 

Travler

Active member
GOLD Site Supporter
BFT , Steve and i studied 1544 for a while today we are figuring out the air flow now and about how much back pressure it will need , we are also thinking a set of try wy headers will work the best , they generate more low end torque , you and scott are welcome to come to the shop and check it out any time we should have the Bronco finished in about a month
 

Blackfoot Tucker

Well-known member
GOLD Site Supporter
BFT , Steve and i studied 1544 for a while today we are figuring out the air flow now and about how much back pressure it will need , we are also thinking a set of try wy headers will work the best , they generate more low end torque , you and scott are welcome to come to the shop and check it out any time we should have the Bronco finished in about a month
Thanks Travler,

That's a very kind offer. Scott actually has a first generation Bronco, so I think he'd be especially interested in yours. But getting him to go somewhere can be difficult. I'll start the process of trying to coax him into a trip....
 

Blackfoot Tucker

Well-known member
GOLD Site Supporter
On day three the two ebay exhaust manifolds showed up. (One several days early, no less!) But after unboxing them, we turned our attention to the stuck exhaust manifold bolt on Thundercat. The ARP bolts have a 12-point head, and I brought some 12-point sockets, as well as an assortment of extensions and ratchets from home. Scott and I are at opposite ends of the tool spectrum. I hate not having the right tool on hand when I need it, so I have what I'll describe as a healthy toolbox. If I see a tool that I think might come in handy, I’ll pro-actively buy it…just in case. (Two such examples are courtesy of Track Addict’s posts, and yes, both have been used!) Scott on the other hand, has a smaller toolbox and it’s frustrating for me when he lacks something that I have at home. He, of course, delights in harassing me, but it sure is nice to have what you need, which can mean having multiple options to tackle a problem.

Anyway, I put a 1/2” drive, 12-point socket with a breaker bar on the offending bolt and… it turned…fairly easily. I switched to a 3/8” drive setup with a ratchet and the bolt spun out without a fight. We were both A - Mazed! It was a feeling like we had just experienced the mechanical equivalent of cheating death. So we finished removing the right side manifold and moved to the left side, hoping our unusual luck would hold…and it did.

Now it was back to modifying the left side exhaust manifold. The 8.1 exhaust manifolds as installed in a vehicle had form-fitting heat shields bolted to the manifold. We think heat shields are a good thing, and plan to modify them as necessary and bolt them to our custom manifolds. Unfortunately, it’s very common to find used manifolds with those shield mounting bolts broken off in the manifold, and we needed to remove one such culprit. We started by tackling that less-than-fun task, but Scott was successful at drilling out most of the broken bolt and carefully using a hammer and punch to remove the residual pieces. Then a quick re-thread with a tap (brought from home).

We had made a fixture prior to working on the right side manifold - a length of pretty heavy steel channel with holes drilled for the bolts that secure the exhaust manifolds to the cylinder head. The fixture would allow us to accurately position the different manifold pieces, and hold them solidly in position while welding.

Having been pretty successful with the right side, we had the strategy down, and Scott started cutting. Then the process of whittling, and checking position, then more whittling, trying to get the pieces to fit. Remember when I said the pieces on the first side didn’t line up well? The left side was even worse….

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Here’s another angle. Yeah, that’s not to work….

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A simple cut, tilt, and weld wouldn’t do the job. We needed to cut the runner, and add a section from another runner to space the curved portion of the runner to better align with the manifold. Fortunately, we had lots of manifold components to cut a piece from. But as we needed to adjust the angle somewhat, a spacer piece wouldn’t have parallel cuts, it would be wedge shaped; more difficult.

Here’s the runner cut apart showing the wedge-shaped gap, with the curved end tack welded in position to the manifold.

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Scott welded in the wedge shaped piece, and also completed the top of the weld where the runner intersects with the manifold (sorry, no pic).

That was it for progress on day three. But it was a great night, as the exhaust manifold bolt issue turned out to be a non-event.
 

Travler

Active member
GOLD Site Supporter
there is no doubt in my mind that any thing you do will make it FAR better than the way it came from Tucker , I am very happy with the hard work and thought that was put into 1544 maybe we can add to that , I hope
 

Blackfoot Tucker

Well-known member
GOLD Site Supporter
I’m certain you can. You and Steve have the knowledge and skills to do just about anything.

Scott and I are in agreement that fuel injection and an automatic transmission are two major upgrades for a Tucker. The trend in the automotive world has been transmissions with more and more speeds. An eight speed transmission today is no big deal, and 10 speeds are surprisingly common. The benefit, as you know, is that with that so many gears to choose from, the engine can operate at its most efficient in terms of power output and economy - at just about any speed.

We think the AT545 is an excellent transmission. But it’s a four-speed, and first gear at 3.45:1 is quite low. It would be nice if it had more speeds to choose from.

In our experience, the AT545 spends the vast majority of its time in third gear. Fourth isn’t used much as it takes a lot of engine torque to “hold” fourth gear, especially in deep snow, at higher elevations, or when you start to climb. If fourth isn’t used much, having overdrive gears really wouldn’t be of much benefit. The other issue is that when you get over about 15 MPH in a rubber belted Tucker, it’s just not a pleasant experience. Snow is flying everywhere and the rotating mass from all those grousers is disconcerting. As PP says, “How much horsepower do you need to go 5MPH?”

But for discussion purposes, let's look at options.

In our case, the 8.1 Vortec, as installed in GM pickup trucks, was paired with the Allison 1000 transmission. That’s a six speed, but fifth and sixth are both overdrive gears, and deep ones at that: 0.71:1 and 0.61:1 respectively. Ratios in third and fourth are identical to the AT545, so upgrading to an Allison 1000 doesn’t do anything meaningful for us.

The newer GM 8L90 also has two overdrive gears (0.85:1 and 0.65:1). Seventh might come in handy on rare occasion, but first through sixth are non-overdrive. Those ratios are: 4.56:1, 2.97:1, 2.08:1, 1.69:1, 1.27:1, and 1.00:1.

The 10L90 offers two more gears still, and three of the ten are overdrive. Eighth is 0:85:1 (same as seventh in the 8L90). One through seven are: 4.70:1, 2.99:1, 2.15:1, 1.80:1, 1.52:1, 1.27:1, and 1.00:1

For comparison, the AT545 ratios are: 3.45:1, 2.25:1, 1.41:1, and 1.00:1.

I colored ratios between 3:1 and 1:1 in blue, and you can clearly see how the 8L90 and 10L90 transmissions give you more options between those ratios.

But a major issue we’d have to deal with is transmission length.

Tucker had a standard duty transfer case and a heavy duty version. The 1544 and CHUGSzilla came with the standard duty model, whereas Thundercat came with the H-D one. It’s thicker, and to install the 8.1 in Thundercat we had to move the front fifth wheel plate and axle assembly forward two inches so the oil pan would fit, and that’s using a short-as-possible custom drive shaft between the transmission and transfer case. The 8.1 engine is 30.72 inches long, and the AT545 is 27.2 inches long.

The 8L90 in 2WD configuration are almost two inches longer than the AT545 at 29". They are also electronically controlled, and that’s something we have no experience with. There are companies that specialize in re-programming, such as Speartech, and they can offer advice on other aspects of the swap, but this is a rabbit hole we're going to stay out of. If you're thinking "Ah, come on BFT, just move the transfer case back a bit", well there isn't much room because the steering cross shaft is there. It's just not do-able without a serious amount of work.

Here's a pic.

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But CHUGSzilla has the thinner transfer case, and the L94 is almost two inches shorter than the 8.1 (28.75" vs 30.72") and I’ve read that the 10L90 is the same length. But that’s another rabbit hole we’re going to stay out of.
 

Travler

Active member
GOLD Site Supporter
BFT , VERY good and correct about the thought process on the transmissions , IMHOP , the tracks are limiting as far as speed , I also believe that the overdrive transmission doesn’t gain any thing , the Snowcat is nothing like rock crawling, We have put the 6R80 in several of our older Bronco’s with very good success, we also use an AtLas 2 speed transfer case , as you said about going down the Rabbit Hole , It becomes How much do you really want to spend , as well as what PP says to go 5 MPH , my wife and I really enjoyed the view and the people at the serenade just cruising and hanging out 😀
 

Pontoon Princess

Cattitute
GOLD Site Supporter
my my my silly boys, bless your heart...

may I suggest, you should completely abandon your TUCKER based go faster quest and turn you MAD KNUCKLEHEAD GENUIS skills to basing your go FASTER SNOW CAT on the Howe Brothers, "Ripsaw" and with that, you might come closer to satisfying your need for SPEED!

to refresh your memory, I have been heard to say, "how much horsepower ( money ) do you need to go 5 mph?"
 
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redsqwrl

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Dont dismiss the 1000 yet. I can speak to a duramax powered 1642 in the midwest. Allison 1000 programed by user. There are different 1000 and 2000 gear sets not all have the dbl overdrive.
Ill see if i can get bryces specs. But he is the only tucker guy close to keeping up. We ran into a vehicle speed sensor issue.(while running with a 1200 cc kristi for the laugh factor] As the final tire size is a 14-17 in diameter the controller thought the vehicle speed was excessive. And cut his rpm.

Ill get his recipe its a specific trans.
 

Blackfoot Tucker

Well-known member
GOLD Site Supporter
PP Debbie was looking over my shoulder when i read this as i was laughing , she looked at me and said
she has you figured out DO NOT MESS WITH MY SNOW CAT Ilike it just the way it is
Travler,

Mrs. Travler, aka: Debbie, totally earned my respect and admiration at SV 2024. I hate it when people play the victim card, and give excuses why they can’t do something, and especially so when they don’t even try. But she was the complete opposite. She refused to be limited by various situations, and went for it. And this despite seriously major surgery six weeks earlier. That was impressive and inspirational, and I’ll bet few people even knew of her surgical backstory.

She is a very impressive lady!

I’m glad she has seen the light, and claimed the 1544 as hers. I guess that relegates you to the DMC….
 

Blackfoot Tucker

Well-known member
GOLD Site Supporter
my my my silly boys, bless your heart...

may I suggest, you should completely abandon your TUCKER based go faster quest and turn you MAD KNUCKLEHEAD GENUIS skills to basing your go FASTER SNOW CAT on the Howe Brothers, "Ripsaw" and with that, you might come closer to satisfying your need for SPEED!

to refresh your memory, I have been heard to say, "how much horsepower ( money ) do you need to go 5 mph?"
It’s really not a quest for higher top speed. It’s the ability to run in a higher gear at slower speeds. For example, instead of second gear at 3,500 RPM, having enough torque to run at that same MPH but in third gear, which would be 2,200 RPM. (Those are actual numbers, but assume no torque converter slip; so somewhat bogus, but you have to start somewhere.)

This winter, taking CHUGSzilla, the 1544, and Thundercat out to Cedar Hollow and playing around in reasonably deep, fresh, untracked snow was seriously fun. A Tucker with a multi-person cab lets you share the experience with others, and that makes it even better. We spend an obscene amount of hours working on these machines, and getting some time using them, in the conditions they were made for, makes it worthwhile. I think 1BG and Track Addict have it figured out. They work on their machines and they enjoy them. But we’re knuckleheads, so it takes us longer to figure things out.

I wish I could say it more eloquently, but there is genuine satisfaction in taking something, and making it run better.

I don’t want to put words in Scott’s mouth, but it was a foregone conclusion the 8.1 in Thundercat was going to make serious power, and it was the same with the L94 in The Hideous Green Menace (CHUGSzilla’s name when The Infamous WBJ1 is driving). But we fought with the stock Chrysler 360 Industrial in the 1544 trying to make it run well. We weren’t winning that battle until we installed the Edelbrock ProFlo 4 system. That was a game changer in the way the engine started and ran. It was very satisfying for me, and I think Scott as well.

As upgrades go, it’s not cheap, and it’s not (regardless of what you may read elsewhere) a weekend project. But it was transformative, and significant bang-for-the-buck.

Work on Project Dual is temporarily suspended as other tasks have become higher priority. However, I would really like to get it done, get the new exhaust system installed, and take it out and see how it works while there is still snow for testing.

I realize some may be thinking “BFT, have you lost your mind? It’s almost May - you’ve got to be kidding", but I’m not. This time of year we’d have to go high in the Uinta mountains, but there is still snow there, and should be for weeks to come. (The Trial Lake SNOTEL site shows 61” of snow depth, as of yesterday.)

The very first time we took Thundercat out was… May 19, 2016, so it’s more than a pipe dream.
 

Blackfoot Tucker

Well-known member
GOLD Site Supporter
Dont dismiss the 1000 yet. I can speak to a duramax powered 1642 in the midwest. Allison 1000 programed by user. There are different 1000 and 2000 gear sets not all have the dbl overdrive.
Ill see if i can get bryces specs. But he is the only tucker guy close to keeping up. We ran into a vehicle speed sensor issue.(while running with a 1200 cc kristi for the laugh factor] As the final tire size is a 14-17 in diameter the controller thought the vehicle speed was excessive. And cut his rpm.

Ill get his recipe its a specific trans.
Redsqwrl,

Please don't go to any trouble. While an Allison 1000 with a different ratio set might be a worthwhile upgrade, it's about 2" longer than the AT545, so it won't fit within our space constraints.
 

redsqwrl

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Redsqwrl,

Please don't go to any trouble. While an Allison 1000 with a different ratio set might be a worthwhile upgrade, it's about 2" longer than the AT545, so it won't fit within our space constraints.
under stood, BUT you are glancing past the fact that it is installed, running and operating and the transfer case is not moved. ( and the radiator is still under the hood..... It will be no trouble to get the recipe. I frequent his neck of the woods and am welcome there :cool:
 

Travler

Active member
GOLD Site Supporter
BFT , thank you for the kind words about Debbie , she is a very special lady , as well as far tougher than me , Lisa is a very nice person also We know both of them have to be strong to put up with US
Debbie is doing good she drives her self to Heart rehab 3 days a week and is getting stringer every day , she is excited about next year , she told Steve not to let me work on her snow cat , we both like it a lot
 
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