Where would I find a tapered ball joint stud?

[Sno-Surfer]

Well folks I thought I'd entertain you with my latest break down. Last week I replaced the front 5th wheel due to the roller breaking through the rolling surface. That was fun, lots of fun, so fun that this week I decided to remove the rear 5th wheel from the cat. We are really pushing the fun to the limit now....
This weeks repair is due to a broken tie rod. First time for me. In order to get the nut off since I really don't have the right tool for it I had to remove the whole rear end. Anyway I won't bore you with every detail since I've been boring the heck out of the mafia already but I can't seem to find a replacement. In fact I can't get the end off the hydraulic ram either.
So my two questions for now are, where would one look to get a new tie rod end and anyone know the size or taper of it? Seems when I'm looking online there's a few options but none that seem to be right for my purpose. Ps, this is not the normal tie rod I've seen on the Tuckers since this one has the independent steering so you have two hydraulic rams, one for each 5th wheel.
The other question is how do you hold the hydraulic ram when trying to get that other part off (don't know the name but it's in the picture the orange greasy thing). I've used vise grips with a towel so far but it's not holding it. Yes I loosened the clamp thing.
Sure appreciate any help on this. We have a ton of snow left here and I'm trying to get back out there. Thanks!!

 

[Cidertom]

the orange thing is threaded onto the ram. It should have a locknut as well. as to holding the ram, I've used a pipe vise with a chunk of rubber stall mat to keep it from marking it. you may need some heat on it since the lock nut is missing it may be bottomed out and real tight/seized . gmoose, Mill666er has one they may have better insight

 

[Sno-Surfer]

the orange thing is threaded onto the ram. It should have a locknut as well. as to holding the ram, I've used a pipe vise with a chunk of rubber stall mat to keep it from marking it. you may need some heat on it since the lock nut is missing it may be bottomed out and real tight/seized . gmoose, Mill666er has one they may have better insight

Thanks Cidertom. I have the clamp loose but don't see any lock nut. Been spraying it down with broil for the last few days too. Maybe I need to try the pipe wrench method. Anyone know what that orange thing is called? It might help with finding the tapered ball stud.

 

[Cidertom]

Look at this and next two pages, maybe help?

542 Cab Forward Restoration

…… hello G,... yes, the 1010 is one of the rare engines , that all 4 sleeves are attached to the top plate ,... when we did ours, we had a hell of a time getting them out, pretty sure it hadn't been apart before,.... I was actually asking about the engine you had hanging off the loader...

www.forumsforums.com

 

[Sno-Surfer]

Look at this and next two pages, maybe help?

542 Cab Forward Restoration

…… hello G,... yes, the 1010 is one of the rare engines , that all 4 sleeves are attached to the top plate ,... when we did ours, we had a hell of a time getting them out, pretty sure it hadn't been apart before,.... I was actually asking about the engine you had hanging off the loader...

www.forumsforums.com

Thanks Cidertom! That's real helpful. I forgot that his was also independent steering. I did end up getting things apart already with a consult from the Mafia. It all makes sense now. That was a perfect thread for my issue though thanks!!

 

[DAVENET]

While it's out take it to a hydraulic shop to get it freshened up with new seals. They will almost certainly have info on getting what you need for the clevis(?) as well.

 

[Track Addict]

Hey surfer,

Think you have a 7/8 taper on the table connection but your rods being hooked to a piston are different. Like a ball for this setup. Check out my 68 442 a new to me thread for part numbers. Those look like the same piece but removed from the joint part which slips into the piston fitting you were trying to get apart.

Looking at your pics I would pull the table and springs apart and rebush what’s worn while it’s out.

Swap those bronze table sliders to lifetime UHMW blocks.

I would be a shame to be that deep in and not address a future issue which is most likely there.

I have some UHMW for you if that helps!

 

[Sno-Surfer]

Hey surfer,

Think you have a 7/8 taper on the table connection but your rods being hooked to a piston are different. Like a ball for this setup. Check out my 68 442 a new to me thread for part numbers. Those look like the same piece but removed from the joint part which slips into the piston fitting you were trying to get apart.

Looking at your pics I would pull the table and springs apart and rebush what’s worn while it’s out.

Swap those bronze table sliders to lifetime UHMW blocks.

I would be a shame to be that deep in and not address a future issue which is most likely there.

I have some UHMW for you if that helps!

Thanks Track Addict. I'll take a look at your thread. You are right on the type of ball stud I'm looking for. I was all over today probably hit at least 10 places from Hood River to Portland and no one has a clue and I can't believe how tough it is to find it. As far as tearing it down more, I just replaced the front 5th wheel last week and now I'm into the rear one and none of this was planned so I'm just trying to get it back to gather so I can get out there more since we have a ton of snow here still. I don't actually plan to rebush or put the UHMW pieces in now, I'm way over my head already but things appear to be in good shape at the moment other than this stud I can't find. Thanks for chiming in and those threads are super helpful at a time like this for me. Thanks for documenting them!

 

[Sno-Surfer]

Trackaddict, when you say 7/8 taper, is that the actual taper metric I should use? I was thinking it was degrees like 7 degrees? OR maybe this is the diameter and if that's the case I think that is the larger ball joint but mine is the smaller version. Seems to be what the crab steering cats came with. My old 68 had the larger ball joints but this one is smaller diameter. I'm pretty lost on finding the part but I'm sure it's partially because I don't know what I'm looking for.

 

[Pontoon Princess]

and with your fairy god pontoon princess on speed dial, all is good at tucker mafia tonight, surfer dude is sleeping well

fyi, the snow cruiser is all back together and ready for action...

 

[DAVENET]

Hopefully a replica of said part can be reproduced at a future date to avert other back woods calamities?

 

[Sno-Surfer]

and with your fairy god pontoon princess on speed dial, all is good at tucker mafia tonight, surfer dude is sleeping well

fyi, the snow cruiser is all back together and ready for action...

Yes the Princess was called multiple times a day and I think I was getting close to getting blocked, lol! Seriously, I'm a little lost on the Sno Cat repairs. I was basically a cotter pin and roller replacer up until a couple weeks ago. Now I think I'm close to getting some sort of 5th wheel certification from the Mafia. But yes, I have it back together just in time for our 80 degree weather and loads of snow left on the mountains.
But the million dollar question, where did I find the tapered ball shaft? Well after a couple calls to Moog I found a helpful soul and he took the time to tell me which balljoint assembly I could cut apart to get the right one. Ends up being from a Nissan truck and the Moog part# is K9347 and the Napa equivalent #10423. The threads are a bit larger so I had to use the castle nut on it instead of the large nut Tucker used. But now I can remove this with out taking the rear end off because my limited socket set fits this nut better. Still looking for a source for just the piece but was happy to have this option for now.

 

[Pontoon Princess]

Hopefully a replica of said part can be reproduced at a future date to avert other back woods calamities?

they are in stock at tucker mafia...just the tapered ball shaft with nut: part number: seaN