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Where to buy centrifugal clutch

pixie

Well-known member
I'm finding few sources for an in line centrifugal clutch.
Even fewer ( like, none) prices.

Does anyone have any leads or experience with an inline clutch on the front output shaft of an engine ? This is a Chrysler 230; similar to the 251 , if that matters. It's used to engage the hydraulic pump for the plow.

I can't even find a picture that resembles it and I can barely see it under the rear engine shroud :rolleyes:

Modifications coming up !!! I'm thiinking clutch with sprocket, chain and 'remote' pump. I have the 'infrastructure' just need another bracket of some kind ...

Thanks for any leads :flowers:
 
Hi Pixie!

How about one of those 12v. aux. hydraulic units? I had one on a home made tractor to lift the plow and it worked great....I got it from northern years ago...

Good luck!
 
Dreamin' here, so please feel free to ignore this:

Several brands of lawn mowers use an electric clutch to engage the mower deck. I've seen them on a 19hp, but I'd bet they're used on bigger ones too. Perhaps some pulley setup off the engine to a clutch that engages the hyd. pump??
 
The other thing I wondered: should I match the HP listed with the clutch to the ultimate ( ie BHP ) of the engine or to the HP I expect the pump to work at ? And then what happens ? Does it slip ?

I considered electric but I can't find Any specifications; neither the size ( Depth) or the HP limits...

The clutch that's on it seems done: all floppy and I will need to almost remove the engine to change the seals in the pump I have now, so I'm hoping for a long term solution.

Since the motor has the front shaft output and my experience with pulley driven pumps is not good, I'd like to have the direct drive or sprocket drive.
 
I had a friend set up a plow truck, 10-ish years ago, using an electric clutch driven off the accessory drive on a new Dodge-Cummins 1-ton cab and chassis.

This whole setup was done by an upfitter that also put a contractor dump box on the chassis.
 
Pixie her's what i have done to run the plow on my dodge 1 ton i use a vickers vtm remote resivior pump with an airconditioning air compressor clutch the pump has an 6 gpm ring with an 1800 psi relief valve the hydraulic shop i got the parts for the pump from also had an aluminum 90 degree mounting bracket for it every thing worked creat for the last 15 byears till the bolts for the magnet rattled loose this spring i still havn't gone in to see if i can fix the damage or if i'm going to have to buy a new clutch. don'y worry about the horse power rating of the clutch anny ac comperssor will work fine on one of them smaller pumps as i can stall the pulleys if i want
 
You might look at an old municipal plow truck. A lot of those had front mounted pumps and a separate reservoir tank.
 
Thanks for the ideas. I'm familiar with plow pumps and set ups and have some lying around but there is no room for them.

This is in my J5. The set up is there with a nice resovoir. There is no room to mount anything to a belt.
The pump needs rebuilding. The way it's in there, I need to undo all the engine shrouds and the the engine mounts so I can lift the engine an inch to get the pump out. I'm not amused.
I'd like to either put it back together with a different pump that would go in easier OR still use the output from the engine and a different clutch and move the pump and use a chain drive. The clutch that's in there doesn't look like it's in very good shape so as long as it's apart, I'd like to replace it but I can't find an inline clutch.
 
If it is in a J5 you won't have many choices without making some big changes. Not much room for sure. Might be better off to upgrade the alternator and use a 12volt pump.
 
Nneeverr miinnd .....

Thanks for your ideas !

I was told it was a clutch and ran with that... turns out it's a double sprocket shaft end adapter with a double chain holding it together.
Matters weren't helped by the drive shaft pulling out of the pump and not the adapter.... so it looks like I'm starting from scratch.
 
Pixie a lot of old tractors had flex couplers like the rag jiont on a steering shaft but most of the time they are replaced qith PTO ujoints that way you dont put the stress on the pump shaft
 
Hey, Dick ! Thanks for the reminder about the rag kind of flex joint.
That might be just the thing as the engine has rubber mounts and the pump doesn't and is mounted to the frame/tub. I was thinking that even a Lovejoy-type coupling probably could not deal with the possibilities for movement.
 
do you have any pics sounds like it's a crank driven pump if so pumps are available and it just takes a shaft if you want a turn the pump on and off feature than look at a pump that you can equip with a dry valve basicly the same as an unloader valve on an aircompressor
 
Here's a pic.
Engine is mounted a little strangely and we just won't discuss the part of the mount that's welded to the machine......
Pump is mounted to tub/frame.
 

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Even if you pull the pump out, that part of the coupler on the motor could be a bear to get off. Not much room for a puller with the pump mount in the way. You might be able to use a low tolerance lovejoy to replace it. John Deere uses a coupler on their older front mount pumps that might work also. My old 401C and the early 310 series backhoes used a coupler that had rubber bushings around bolts.
 
I've had the pump out and the shaft and coupler came out of it.

Not very worried about removing the other coupler because it slides on it's shaft. Think I just need to file down the beaten up end of the shaft and maybe find some set screws and it should slide off.

Pump shaft
 

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the pump looks like a little vickers vtm also looks as if the coupler was welded to the end of the shaft.the good part is that parts are cheap for these pumps except for the housings about 300 bucks.there are many different sized rings from about 1/2 gallons per miniut to 8 gpm if your housing is one of the smaller ps housings you will have to drill out the outlet hole to the right size to match the larger ring. good luck
 
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