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When engine compartment gets hot, motor shuts down.

N

Nate b

New member
So it's time to start fixing the bugs from last year on my skidozer 252. It has a ford 300 with points. I'm sitting here at work thinking which may not always be a good thing.

My issue.

When running the cat last year the engine compartment would get really hot then the cat would die, after about 10 minutes she would fire back up and be good to go for awhile before repeating the process.

I had came to the conclusion that it was vapor locking, so my plan was to run metal fuel line outside the frame rail away from the engine compartment heat back though the frame rail to the carb. Bam cool fuel should solve my issue. The carb intake is drawing cool air from outside and the carb stays nice and cool.
Does this sound like it should do the trick?

So like I said I'm sitting here thinking, and wondering if it's not a vapor locking issue could it be the distributor, coil, or points overheating- all three were new last year- creating similar symptoms?

My other thoughts for cooling the engine compartment even more was to reverse the engine fan and blow the air out the front of the cat through the radiator drawing cool air up around the engine to keep my engine compartment cooler. I would of course have to move the rear diff cooler and trans cooler.

My other issue is the rear diff gets hot enough you cant put your hands on it after about 30 minutes. Has anyone put a belt driven pump on the engine to circulate the diff or does the driveline pump work just fine at keeping things cool.
 
And everyone likes pictures.
 

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Nate b said:
So it's time to start fixing the bugs from last year on my skidozer 252. It has a ford 300 with points. I'm sitting here at work thinking which may not always be a good thing.

My issue.

When running the cat last year the engine compartment would get really hot then the cat would die, after about 10 minutes she would fire back up and be good to go for awhile before repeating the process.

I had came to the conclusion that it was vapor locking, so my plan was to run metal fuel line outside the frame rail away from the engine compartment heat back though the frame rail to the carb. Bam cool fuel should solve my issue. The carb intake is drawing cool air from outside and the carb stays nice and cool.
Does this sound like it should do the trick? what some have done is change the fuel pump to one with a return line on it to keep recirculating fuel keep it cooler

So like I said I'm sitting here thinking, and wondering if it's not a vapor locking issue could it be the distributor, coil, or points overheating- all three were new last year- creating similar symptoms?

My other thoughts for cooling the engine compartment even more was to reverse the engine fan and blow the air out the front of the cat through the radiator drawing cool air up around the engine to keep my engine compartment cooler. I would of course have to move the rear diff cooler and trans cooler. You would need to get a different blade just turning or around it will still move are the same.

My other issue is the rear diff gets hot enough you cant put your hands on it after about 30 minutes. Has anyone put a belt driven pump on the engine to circulate the diff or does the driveline pump work just fine at keeping things cool.
Click to expand...
make sure you driveline pump is actually moving oil if not primed
And air purged it may not be moving oil.
 
boggie said:
make sure you driveline pump is actually moving oil if not primed
And air purged it may not be moving oil.
Click to expand...

Ya that's on my list, I got it all primed last year then forgot when I had the tracks off to run it and see if it was pumping. This will be one of the first things I look at.

We got a little snow on the tops and I'm getting ANSI.
 
Boggie gave you some very good advice, answering your questions. The fuel pump with a return line is a very good idea. I would like to add one more item to replace. The ignition coil....I just replaced one on a truck with the same issue you describe. Warm it may not start, only dies a few times while in service. Changed out the tank fuel pump first and that didn't do it. Turned out the coil for the ignition was the culprit. Nothing on the outside looked out of place, and it worked well untill the heat of the engine compartment came up... This was a goose chase to figure out, untill the service guys tell me they keep a spare coil in the service truck cause they see this enough to keep one there to keep the wrecker from having to tow a truck in.....

It may not be your issue, but I know it could be as well...

I have seen first hand a Ski Dozer pinion gear that didn't have oil going to it, so make darn sure your drive shaft pump is working well. If it isn't you will have quite the adventure replacing the ring and pinion gears...

Hope you figure it out, winter is comming for sure!

Regards, Kirk
 
I agree kirk had the same problem with my 76 cj the coil would get hot and shut down throw some water on it and it would start back up
 
I have a 1970 Thiokol Spryte 1201b. When I would run it in weather warmer than 50 degrees, the thing would just want to quit on me after it was warmed up. If I kept the RPMs up over 3000, then it would continue to run, but as soon as it dropped below 3000 RPMs, it would want to die out. I thought about what could cause this and started with the vapor lock idea.

I bought one of these for like $30 to $35: http://www.designengineering.com/ca...ineering-inc/line-hose-protection/heat-shroud

($29 shipped on Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DEI-HIGH-TE...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4613dda1ba&vxp=mtr)

and installed it on the fuel line that goes from the pump to the carb (which runs right across the front of the engine on my machine).

For me, this solved my problem. It was an easy fix since you can velcro it right around the fuel line without having to take anything off the engine.

It is a relatively cheap way to see if it is a vapor lock issue.

Good luck.

Jim
 
Thanks guys, really appreciate the good info. I do carry a spare coil so I will have to try and switch it out and see if that will make the difference. Today I'm getting the first chance to tinker on her in awhile so I will definitely look into the rear diff pump as priority.
 
my 76 spryte didnt have a diff pump or cooler when i got it so i instaled a diff pump from summit and used a small cooler i had laying around, i also installed a temp probe before the pump so i could see how hot the rear was getting. as long as i am in decent snow there is enough thrown up against the cooler to keep it around 150-200 degrees.

i also second replacing the coil to fix your running problem
 
I am working on a SV 300 with a 300 ci ford I have found a flex fan that will move a lot more air than the stock fan. I like the fuel pump return idea, I think I will do the same thing. I do not have a diff. pump or cooler on mine, is that something I should put on, If so what is the easy fix. Clair
 
Sounds like your going to be ready for a track party in Leavenworth. The 2014 "Snowcat Jamboree" is going to happen again in Jan.

My Diff OC12 runs under 180 F anything over that isnt good. I carry a laser to check the temp on bearing the diff and my wife when I get too far from home Thats when I know its time to turn around LOL
 
Were you able to isolate the issue to the coil or fuel issue? I am having the same issue with an '86 LMC 1200. It happened last season too. (at temps of 30 degrees plus) It appears to be getting fuel as I have removed the fuel line at the carb and fuel flows out while turning motor over and using manually operated electric fuel pump. (I use electric one to prime system if cat has been sitting)

Just before Christmas I went to the Cabin and when it got warm (temp was 34 degrees) it shut down so checked fuel delivery and also removed metering (?) unit from front of carb. (that fuel line connects too) Now the carb will not hold an idle at 700 RPM, but if you pull the choke out a little (1000-1200RPM) it will not kill.

Any suggestions what to try next? Thanks.
 
I installed a non filtered mechanical pump, but we haven't had any snow yet to test it.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
Thanks for the reply. We have about 3' of snow in the Stevens Pass area. When you get to try it out, it would be appreciated if you could let me know the results. In the mean time I will try replacing the coil and ballast resistor to see if I get "lucky".

My Cat has Ford factory electronic ignition. Are there any other suggestions on things to check when I change the coil and ballast resistor? Because of the electronic ignition do I need a special coil or ballast resistor? The Cabin is a 2 hr drive and I would like to have as much "stuff" with me to avoid duplicating trips for more parts. Thanks again for your help.
 
I have put a oiltemp sensor in my differential so that i can keep track of whats going on i have olso moved the drivetrain pump so it is now driven directly on the engine. I belive that will make the cooling a bit more effective.
 
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