• Please be sure to read the rules and adhere to them. Some banned members have complained that they are not spammers. But they spammed us. Some even tried to redirect our members to other forums. Duh. Be smart. Read the rules and adhere to them and we will all get along just fine. Cheers. :beer: Link to the rules: https://www.forumsforums.com/threads/forum-rules-info.2974/

Water problem

D

Dmorency

Member
Hi, I installed a inline heater today on my (new to me) BR110. I have not used this groomer yet, only just to move it around my yard. I installed the heater on the cabs heater line on the right side of the machine, if you are standing behind the machine. After I installed the heater I let the machine idle for about 1/2 hour but the heater in the cab never even got warm. The antifreeze was not circulating. The temp gauge was at 185 degree.
With the motor running I removed one of the hoses from one side of the inline heater and the antifreeze would only run out of the hose if I held the hose below the outlet on the motor.
I thought the antifreeze would be gushing out of the hose? Could I have a faulty water pump, or did I install on the wrong side of the heater hose?Thanks
 
Most of those have a check valve in them. Try installing it on the other heater hose. Lower radiator hose heater works better.
Mike
 
Dmorency said:
Thanks guys, I am getting hot water, but no circulation/pressure.Also what is "Lower radiator hose heater"?
Click to expand...

It's another inline heater you install by cutting the lower rad hose nearest the engine, preferrably the vertical section, and installing it in the hose. If the hose has a spring inside it to prevent it from collapsing you need to cut a section of the spring out.
Mike
 
first the heater you installed uses convection to move the heat through the engine it must be mounted low and some have check valves in tehm to help this if your bombie heater isn't in the right location this heater won't do anything but run up your electric bill get a freeze plug heater it will do the same work as a 1500 watt inline heater with onlt 400 watts they are easy to install work well and are reliable that is all i install and use up here on a smaller engine you can plug it in a half hour before starting than go have a few cups of cofee.
 
dds said:
get a freeze plug heater it will do the same work as a 1500 watt inline heater with onlt 400 watts they are easy to install work well and are reliable that is all i install and use up here on a smaller engine you can plug it in a half hour before starting than go have a few cups of cofee.
Click to expand...

Wiser words could not be spoken. The part that causes problems in cold temps is the friction of cold oil in the rings, pistons, and cylinders. Put the heat INSIDE the engine and warm the cylinders, and the oil film on them. Once this oil is free, engines turn over like summer time....With much less time and electricity as well. Frost plug heaters are OEM on most cold weather prepped engines...

Regards, Kirk
 
Thanks for the replies. But the biggest part of my question is why am I not have circulation of antifreeze? Short Bus said maybe the thermostat didn't open. Shouldn't I have flow to the cab heater at all time?
 
mla2ofus said:
On most engines the thermostat doesn't have to open to get hot water to the heater core.
Mike
Click to expand...

See above. I think you need to remove the heater and try to find why no liquid is running to the heater. If the cab heater worked fine before inline heater installation then something is wrong w/ the installation. Can you post some pics of the heater installation?
Mike
 
Hi again. Trying to upload photos but says failed??
I don't know if heater worked before, because I never used this machine before.Like I said before, when I remove the hose coming from the motor, with the motor running, the antifreeze will only flow by gravity. If the thermostat does not have to be open shouldn't I have flow pressure?Thanks I will keep trying to post photos.
 
It might help to see if there is a shutoff valve on one of the heater hoses near or on the engine. Or if there is a temperature control valve in the cab heater and it's closed and you're taking the return hose loose there will be no flow.
Mike
 
mla2ofus said:
It might help to see if there is a shutoff valve on one of the heater hoses near or on the engine. Or if there is a temperature control valve in the cab heater and it's closed and you're taking the return hose loose there will be no flow.
Mike
Click to expand...
Checked all of that also.May have to run it for a hour to see if the motor gets hot.Don't understand this one.Have installed heaters on most of my equipment and everything has had pressure and flow with motor running. The only thing I can think of, is that the last owner installed the cab heater in a place that the thermostat has to be open to have flow......Or the water pump is not working....
 
If you have enough hose to do it, take both hoses off the engine and hook two good hoses to engine and put them in a bucket slightly higher than the engine. Start it up and if you get no flow then that narrows the problem down.
For adding pics, click on "post reply", scroll down below text box and find "manage attachments", open this and it's pretty simple to post them. The pics will need to be downsized(640x480 is what I use all the time. The easiest resizer I've found is " microsoft powertoys" picture resizer". Small download and easy to use.
Mike
 
if you have no flow with the heater removed you most likely have air lock and the waterpump by pass does not have enough volumme to overcome it i always like to pull a plug behind the thermostat or at the top of teh engine and fill the cooling system till water comes out than re install the plug or sensor i removed i still say ditch the tank heater for a soft plug heater.
 
DDS, I agree on the soft plug heater. I just suggested the lower rad heater 'cause they're usually easier to install. I just put a soft plug heater in my Nissan OHC 4 banger because, having the external oil pump, it wouldn't pick up the oil @ -10 F. I'll get a chance to find out if it works tomorrow nite. If not then I'll have to get a pan heater for it.
Mike
 
mla2ofus said:
DDS, I agree on the soft plug heater. I just suggested the lower rad heater 'cause they're usually easier to install. I just put a soft plug heater in my Nissan OHC 4 banger because, having the external oil pump, it wouldn't pick up the oil @ -10 F. I'll get a chance to find out if it works tomorrow nite. If not then I'll have to get a pan heater for it.
Mike
Click to expand...

Question, if oil is at -10 what difference does it make if the pump is internal or external? And if there isn't a significant difference, then why would and internal pump with the same oil, be able to pick up oil when an external pump won't?

I must be missing some thing here I didn't know? IS the pump lots higher above the oil relative to an internal one??

Regards, Kirk
 
I will guess the pump is 3-4 inches above the oil level. I think it's the distance the oil has to travel in order to reach the pump, approx 3/4 the length of the block. It's -11F as I type so I'll find out in a little while how it's working.
A good friend,who is quite knowledgeable about engines of yesteryear, said Ford quit making the 427 sideoiler for this reason.
Mike
 
Update: I went out and started it and it picked up the oil maybe a second later than normal.
I apologise for the hijack, Dmorency. Now let's get back to your problem.
Mike
 
here's the scoop on the oil pump all chrysler big block v8 had then as did the 225 slant 6 and amc 6. the difference between than and now is the new motors have tighter clearances, allowing for lighter oil and lesss friction in the engine this means you now don't need that huge cone and pick up tube so, the pick up tubes in newer engines have gotten smaller. some of the newest engines are using 0w 30 or ow20 oils as a recomended cold climate oil and 5w20 or 5w 20 for hot enviroments. at only -10 you may be using the wrong oil and definantly so it you have teh old 10 w 30 or 40 oils every body used to swear by.
 
mla2ofus said:
Well, Morency, any progress on your problem?
Mike
Click to expand...
No Mike, I haven't had time in the last couple of days to check anything. I hope I will get a chance tomorrow to try the things you guys suggested.
I will post back when I know more. Thanks again Don
 
Ok, yesterday was long enough to finaly get most of my little jobs completed.
I found out I was air locked, when I cured that problem I plugged in the heater, only to find I had it installed on the wrong side of the motor and it was sending heated antifreeze into the radatior.
Don't understand what happened but the lighting in my garage started to turn RED.
Then I decided to put a T on the input hose line and install a input nipple on the motor next to the thermastat. Drained the antifreeze, installed the T, then relized I had to move the hose because I had too much slack. Was moving the hose but a electrical wire was in my way.Said to myself "what the F is this".Traced it to find a block heater where I had seached 10 times before, traced the other way and found the plug on top of the cab.
My lighting turned RED again and tools started to fly around my garage.
 
So now you are good to go. Get a short length of baseboard heat tube and make a nice foot warmer for under your workbench with the one you bought.:clap:



:yum::yum: I have to laugh as I bought a magnetic heater and when I went to stick it on my Gehl skid steer found the same thing. The wire and plug were shifted way in under the motor from ramming into dirt piles.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top