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Tucker purchase

tomfarrell3

New member
I am going to look at a early 80's tucker. It has rubber tracks. What should I look at closely before buying her? I am very mechanically inclined but dont want to buy something I have to do alot of work to. Thank you in advance.
 
I'm no tucker expert but from what some others have posted trunion wear , fithwheel wear and body rust seem to be quite common in the older tuckers like that. the other thing i would look close at is the frame welds ,electrical system condition, and the track rails ie. (road wheels berings and sprokets and belts) good luck i'n certain some tucker owners will chime in soon you are in the right place
 
I am going to look at a early 80's tucker. It has rubber tracks. What should I look at closely before buying her? I am very mechanically inclined but dont want to buy something I have to do alot of work to. Thank you in advance.

Tom,

I realize you are just looking for some tips, but could you give us the particulars about the machine as far as model, power train, options, hours etc.

Pictures would be especially helpful...
 
Don has good points.

Others are:
engine condition, careful visual inspection of everything in the compartment, pull a compression check, preferably differential comp check, this will tell you all sortsa information, listen to intake, exhaust, also at the oil filler in valve cover. This will indicate different types of wear ( worn rings, burned valves, hole in piston,which valve is damaged ) Run engine to operating temps then diff check each cylinder. Check for start up oil pressure, then warm oil pressure. Look at spark plugs at same time, tells a lot.

R&R the oil filter, cut it open and inspect for metal, same on the hydraulic tank.

Belt condition.

Hyd hose condition.

Electrical check, battery, wiring, does it charge, pull an amp check on the battry,turn on all electrics, condition of insulation, shorts, burned or loose wiring, is everything nicely bundled or was it slopped in, tells me a lot about previous owners or mechanics.

Hydraulics, cold ops and warm/hot ops. Noises ?
Does it act sluggish or as it should ?

Oil/lube in transfer case, differentials, transmission, look for making metal
Correct viscosity ?

Does it look like it's been greased ?

U-joints, same check. I prefer to see grease on all fittings , some think little grease is a good thing, I don't. I'm not concerned with gittin grease on me when I work on equipment, I'm a mechanic, but some folks are,... ahh, cleaner than me when we work...


Service records, when, what, how often if repeated, does it reflect maintenance intervals ? How many hours on machine ? Partial hours on components ?

What type of use did it see ?

Who is the owner ? Does he/she seem conservative about how machine was operated or one of them " less see what this thing can do " kinda folks.

Price ? Do some homework on what comparable equipment goes for.

lots of things to look at, keep ya busy for awhile. Plan on a full day, maybe you'll see the things that say " Not this machine "
 
Don has good points.

Others are:
engine condition, careful visual inspection of everything in the compartment, pull a compression check, preferably differential comp check, this will tell you all sortsa information, listen to intake, exhaust, also at the oil filler in valve cover. This will indicate different types of wear ( worn rings, burned valves, hole in piston,which valve is damaged ) Run engine to operating temps then diff check each cylinder. Check for start up oil pressure, then warm oil pressure. Look at spark plugs at same time, tells a lot.

R&R the oil filter, cut it open and inspect for metal, same on the hydraulic tank.

Belt condition.

Hyd hose condition.

Electrical check, battery, wiring, does it charge, pull an amp check on the battry,turn on all electrics, condition of insulation, shorts, burned or loose wiring, is everything nicely bundled or was it slopped in, tells me a lot about previous owners or mechanics.

Hydraulics, cold ops and warm/hot ops. Noises ?
Does it act sluggish or as it should ?

Oil/lube in transfer case, differentials, transmission, look for making metal
Correct viscosity ?

Does it look like it's been greased ?

U-joints, same check. I prefer to see grease on all fittings , some think little grease is a good thing, I don't. I'm not concerned with gittin grease on me when I work on equipment, I'm a mechanic, but some folks are,... ahh, cleaner than me when we work...


Service records, when, what, how often if repeated, does it reflect maintenance intervals ? How many hours on machine ? Partial hours on components ?

What type of use did it see ?

Who is the owner ? Does he/she seem conservative about how machine was operated or one of them " less see what this thing can do " kinda folks.

Price ? Do some homework on what comparable equipment goes for.

lots of things to look at, keep ya busy for awhile. Plan on a full day, maybe you'll see the things that say " Not this machine "
those are all good points when inspecting equipment i always like to see grease at the u-joint seals rather than rust also if you take it to the extent of aa leakage test than don't forget to pop the cap off the radiator bubbles in the radiator while doing this test will indicate a bad headgasket on that cylinder or a cracked head
 
WOW thanks for the responses! He said he just had it in the shop getting some small wheels replaced and the turning radius support re welded. Is this a normal cracking point? What should I look at on the pods? Are they similar to a bulldozer as far as wear?
 
All of the above ^^^^,

...plus try to find out if it was a groomer or private-use cat. Groomers will have a lot more 'wear-n-tear' than a private-use cat. Take a look at the cat from a short distance and see if the frame is sagging or twisted. At the same time, look at the front and rear tracks & frames to make sure they are parallel, (not towed-out or towed-in) and that the axle housings are straight. If the axle housings are straight but the tracks appear to be 'leaning' to the inside, then the track-frame pivot bushings on the ends of the axle housings are probably shot.
 
Picture of the tucker

Any input:
Model #
Value
 

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Anything that says "TUCKER" on it is going to be expensive to replace; i.e.- wheels,sprockets,journal brgs.,trunion pins,trans.case,- just to name a few. Good Luck.
 
Don,

I don't think so... I have to turn my head (or the computer) 90 degrees but I only count 5 idler wheels which would be the mid length (1500 series) tracks.

To the OP,

I would suggest you start by measuring the width of the frame rails across the cab. I think that machine is a mid seventies machine and I believe Tucker built both 48" and 52" inch wide cabs. I've owned both and the four inches makes quite a difference. I definitely prefer the wider cabs.

It looks to me like it was a groomer. The signage on the door looks like it was covered up by some new paint. Looking at the very back of the machine it looks like some hydraulic lines just above the pintle hook.

Definitely not a "cream puff". If this was used as a groomer I would suggest that you look it over VERY carefully. If it was a groomer and it wasn't maintained well you could be looking at a whole bunch of worn parts. The vast majority are still available from Tucker, but the prices of those parts add up very fast. I would not be surprised to see some frame cracks.

I'd look at the grouser bars and see if many look like they've been repaired (signs of hard use). Obviously check the condition of the track belts, the drive sprockets, the idler wheels. I would grab the drive shafts close to the transfer case and try to shake them (checking for looseness in the transfer case). I'd also look for cracks, (either unfixed or welded) for more signs of hard use on the fifth wheel plates, the carriers, etc.

I've seen some absolutely pathetic "repairs" done to Tuckers and if I saw a few of those I would strongly suggest you run away.

I'm guessing the price would be fairly cheap, but this machine is a two door (less desirable than a three or four door), has mid length tracks (less desirable than the long ones) probably spent at least part of it's life as a groomer (red flag).

Good Luck!
 
All parts above the tracks are available at most auto parts stores,not so much regarding tracks,carriers and turntables. A few welding skills always help with these older cats. Let us know how it goes!:smile:
 
my mistake as i'm no tucker expert but i thaught the five wheel models were long tracks. well i learned something again frame cracks are not limited to tuckers and all snow cats should be checked for cracks in the frame which just goes with use on un even surfaces and as long as you don't have rust issues a guy that is good with an arc welder can fix just about any problems that arise.
 
Some great advice in the above posts.

My 2 cents - The cat appears to be a '76 or '77 1542. I own a '78 1642, on the '78 hoods the downward sweep on the hood is lesser, almost flat. In '75 the front hood area was a bit rounder at the top corners.
 
That is a former Mad River Glen groomer.
I have been in touch with the seller on and off and he uses it for
winter logging and compacting the snow on his long driveway.
They seem to take good care of it and are very willing to answer any questions. PM me if anyone wants his contact info, as I'm a little too busy right now to make any kind of purchasing decision. Here are some additional pics from the owners facebook page, asking 8K and some implimenents are available as well :
183804_10150152508415127_5367364_n-1.jpg



tucker.jpg


183708_10150152508940127_7095577_n.jpg
 
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