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Tucker 1543b

Tye one on

Tye one on

Member
Bought a 87 1543b last season and put it in the shop for some TLC. Can anyone tell me if the factory electric fuel pump is available anywhere? It's an autopulse 2142. I assume it's only there for redundancy? I'm a purest so I'd like to replace it with original if possible. Cheers!
 
They are very complicated inside and don't trust anything that would be used unfortunately. I feel scolded so I'll post a couple pics....
 
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Last picture is where the fuel pump was before I removed it and plumbed around it.
 
Oh it's that time get it in the shop and get ready for McCall!!!!!! Guess I better get started too!!!!!
 
Tye one on said:
Bought a 87 1543b last season and put it in the shop for some TLC. Can anyone tell me if the factory electric fuel pump is available anywhere? It's an autopulse 2142. I assume it's only there for redundancy? I'm a purest so I'd like to replace it with original if possible. Cheers!
Click to expand...

If you can't find a nice Autopulse unit, the Carter rotary vane pumps, such as their model P4389, have a similar look to them. The other good thing is the original Autopulse pump probably wasn't designed for ethanol fuels, but the new Carter pumps have been updated.

I don't want to hijack your thread, but my Snowcat buddy and I are presently refurbishing a 1980 Tucker 1643. If you'd be interested (or anyone else) I'll start a thread on that...
 
Would the Carter allow fuel flow while in the off position? This pump seems to be there as a back up in case mechanical pump fails.
 
Your electric pump is for steep hills. As your fuel tank gets lower on fuel and the terrain gets steeper a lot of the mechanical pumps don't have the suction to keep the motor running. If we started swathing on the farm in the morning we had to fill the tank up in the afternoon or the swathers would quit on the steep hills, until we put electric pumps on. I put a new electric pump on the Tucker that Logger bought from me but never turned it on, the mechanical would keep it running on any hill I had. That pump was a rotary and the mechanical could suck thru it, so I never ran it.
 
teamster said:
Your electric pump is for steep hills. As your fuel tank gets lower on fuel and the terrain gets steeper a lot of the mechanical pumps don't have the suction to keep the motor running. If we started swathing on the farm in the morning we had to fill the tank up in the afternoon or the swathers would quit on the steep hills, until we put electric pumps on. I put a new electric pump on the Tucker that Logger bought from me but never turned it on, the mechanical would keep it running on any hill I had. That pump was a rotary and the mechanical could suck thru it, so I never ran it.
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I thought it might be for higher elevations. My family was really into Jeeping back in the 60s-70s in Colorado and when you would get in the higher elevations the fuel pumps on the Jeeps and Broncos would vapor lock pretty regular.

My Spryte would too here in Alaska when I ran tours in Hatcher Pass and I put an electric fuel pump on and solved that problem. I always thought it was heat soaking at the fuel pump location but now I wonder if the extreme steep slopes I was on had something to do with it.

BTW even though I'm not really a Tucker fan this particular model you have here Tye One On is my favorite. I think a gas engine with the auto trans makes driving in the snow much easier.
 
Little more progress today! Radio and com system installed with portable radio charging station. Seal roof and new sound foam inside and she's ready for the trail. 12" last night so we are well on our way! Cheers!
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I have a feeling that may be a hard find. That style was popular in Wayne, Ward and Carpenter school buses of that period, but all three are out of business. And a combination of huge decrease of sales from those three manufacturers, as well as the white typically looking like crap over time, caused the switch producers to drop production significantly - ETA included.

I would recommend the upgraded marine switches like Track Addict used, or if you are locked in to 'as is' refurbishment, Cole Hersee / Littelfuse still has a similar switch in the 56000 & 57000 series. Almost everything now uses the 58000 series which is more common (=less expensive), weather resistant, and LED illumination.

http://www.littelfuse.com/industries/commercial-vehicle/cole-hersee/switches/rocker-switches.aspx
 
Transfer case seal leaking is dripping. Can I change that by removing the yolk and replacing the seal? Or do I have to split the case to get it out?
 
I believe it can be pulled after you pull the yokes off, pretty sure the seals go in from the outside.
 
If it's like the other Tucker transfer cases pretty easy job once the yokes are off as stated above. You may also find some leakage out of the bolts that mount it in the frame of not asks properly.

Some like the self changing oil leak. Myself not so much
 
Seals are pressed in from the outside and locked in with a couple washers and screws. I replaced mine but it was out of the cat so it was pretty easy. Fixed the leaks at the seal but had a bigger leak through the spline and out the yoke. I put heavy grease on the spline and a bunch of blue silicone sealant behind the yoke nut and washer. Now I see I have a leak at the mounting bolts that are drilled and tapped through the case. Need to pull them out and reassemble with blue silicone as well.

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I figured that rock crushers in a reduced capacity don't spell so gooder. But yes I knew what you meant!!! And be careful what you wish for if it keeps raining over here I might just have to come help you work on your cat.
 
The seals can be changed from the outside. Be sure to check the wear on the OD of the yokes. A stainless steel Speedi Sleeve can be used if the seal surface is rough. Right on about the oil migrating out the splines and mounting bolts. Silicone them.
 
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Huh? In this instance I can think of many many things that "b" stands for!! Pertaining to a Tucker I'm not sure either.
 
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