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Track Belting

Blackfoot Tucker

Well-known member
GOLD Site Supporter
Note: While much of the following is Tucker specific, there is a fair amount of information applicable to other brands of snowcats.

Snowcat track belting is an interesting topic, and it seems to come up with some regularity on the forum. Putri - Zilla needs new track belts, and Scott and I are kicking around a possible Thundercat modification... that would require new belting as well. And the 1544’s belts are less-than-optimal. So we're in the market for a whole bunch of new track belting. The standard Tucker belts for decades were two ply, 220 PIW (pounds per inch width) belts. I bought my first Tucker back in 2008, and IIRC a new belt from Tucker then was $225. The last time I inquired about belts from Tucker they only sold three ply 330 PIW belts, and at a significantly higher price. (I think like north of $300 per belt.) If I bought all new belts for Thundercat, P-Z and the 1544 from Tucker, that would be in the vicinity of $15K, so I have a lot of incentive to find a cost-effective belt option!

There is considerable information out there, but I wonder how accurate some of it is? Most snowcats use rubber belts for their track material with aluminum or steel grouser bars bolted to the belts. In terms of belt construction, there are typically two, or more fabric layers separated by a thin layer of rubber, called a "skim coat", as well as a layer of rubber on the top and bottom of the fabric plies. Those top and bottom layers of rubber are called covers. From my understanding, snowcat belting is essentially conveyor belting, though in much narrower and shorter lengths than the typical conveyor installation.

There are many different conveyor belt applications and depending on the application, different characteristics for the belting material are important. For example, some conveyors are installed underground. Those belts aren’t exposed to harmful UV rays, so that’s not a consideration, however resistance to fire is.. Some belts are used in food production - so sanitary concerns are paramount. And some are used in asphalt plants to move hot asphalt, and high temperature tolerance is crucial. Well, in a snowcat we do care about UV rays, but not about sanitation or very high temperatures. We are concerned with cold temperatures, belt stretch, minimum pulley diameters, abrasion/cut resistance and UV tolerance.

Brad, the man behind Minnesota Outdoors was the most knowledgable person I've ever spoken with about snowcat belting. I bought some belts from him and they were high quality, reasonably priced and delivered quickly, but very sadly Brad passed away, and the company is no longer in operation. He mentioned at one point that if you’re looking for what I’ll call generic belting; meaning it does a pretty good job, and can be bought fairly inexpensively, look for grain elevator belting. It works well in cold temperatures and has minimal stretch. Brad told me he bought his belting in Europe and shipped it to the US….

A little bit of history: Goodyear was a major belting manufacturer in the United States, but they sold the division that made belting to private equity company The Carlyle Group back in 2007. Though the products still carried the Goodyear name, the company’s named was changed to Veyance Technologies. However, eight years later in 2015 Continental, AG, bought Veyance Technologies. Part of the deal was that after a limited amount of time they could no longer sell products under the Goodyear name. It’s now called "Conti-Tech”.

The advantage of buying belts from Tucker, or aftermarket suppliers like Fall Line, is that they supply ready-to-install belts with all the holes punched in the belts and the belt lacing installed. But if one is willing to put some elbow grease into the project, perhaps some significant money can be saved. That was my objective when I started down this Rabbit hole. I called Applied Industrial Technologies, a Continental distributor in SLC, to start the process of gathering information… and quickly ran into a brick wall.

I sensed the gentleman I was speaking with genuinely wanted to help me, but when I answered “snowcat” to his question about what the belt would be used for, the tone of the conversation changed markedly. He said he couldn’t sell belting to me for that purpose due to liability reasons, as the belting wasn’t specifically designed for that application. (What’s ironic is Continental’s own website has a photo of a snowcat with aluminum grousers and rubber belts.) He specifically mentioned Fall Line as a belt supplier, and said that though the belting itself might be identical, because I would be buying it from Fall Line, they had the liability for the product, and not them. Really? The other day I needed to blow my nose, and grabbed some toilet paper for the job. Unsurprisingly, it worked well. I wonder if Costco senior management is worried about customers using their toilet paper for other than its intended use? I’m thinking they don’t lose a wink of sleep over it…. (Note: It was none other than William Shakespeare who is credited with the quote "The first thing we do, let's kill all the lawyers".)

I called another Continental distributor in SLC; Kaman Industrial Technologies, and did not use the word “snowcat". But they didn’t seem very eager for my business, and I wasn't holding my breath for their pricing. Now, a month later... they never even called back. Nice. I also talked with a third company in SLC, McGuire Bearing, as well as Capital Rubber and Gasket in Sacramento. I also spent quite a bit of time doing research on Al Gore's Internet, trying to become more knowledgeable about belting. I think most customers buying conveyor belting purchase, what is to us as snowcat hobbyists, HUGE quantities of belting. We are, in the scheme of things, not even small potatoes. That means it’s very likely what a local supplier may offer you are choices of remnants from big customers’ orders. If you look at belting manufacturer's websites you can find a combination of belt fabric material, number of plies, cover material, and cover thicknesses that seem ideal for our application. That's great, except it's pretty much unobtanium for us as far as being able to purchase it in the quantities we need. My impression is Fall Line sells Continental Plylon Plus (a name leftover from the Goodyear days) with Defender Plus covers. Okay, but compared to other Continental cover options, the Defender Plus maybe aren't the optimal covers for snowcat use. The bottom line is if you are looking to buy belting for your snowcat, chances are strong you’re going to be compromising with what’s available, versus what you really want.

When it comes to belting itself, the strength comes from the fabric, and very little comes from the covers. The cover’s purpose is actually to protect the fabric. Typically, a top cover is a multiple of the bottom cover’s thickness. It seems the most common multiple is 3:1, hence 3/16 top cover and 1/16 bottom cover on snowcat belting from Fall Line. But there are other cover thickness options available. A significant consideration for snowcat belting is the minimum pulley diameter rating of the belting. As a general rule, more fabric plies and thicker covers require larger pulley diameters. And, those same extra plies and thicker covers add weight and require more power to pull the belt around the pulleys. Brad of Minnesota Outdoors had mentioned “balanced covers”, which I took to mean the top and bottom covers were the same thickness. Talking with one belting representative, he told be "balanced covers" means the top cover is twice the thickness of the bottom cover. “Equal covers” means the covers are the same thickness.

Before starting to do research I thought “Gee, the belts on P-Z are 43 years old. In that time technology has advanced significantly in terms of fabrics and rubber compounds, I’ll bet there are some much better belts available with Kevlar fabric, for example”. I asked one supplier about that and he said aramid fabric belts (Kevlar is actually a Dupont brand name.) have great strength but he said they stretch quite a bit and the aramid fabric doesn’t stay adhered to the rubber covers as well as poly and nylon fabrics. That was a surprise! But there is now a trend toward using fewer plies of stronger fabrics. In a single ply belt, sometimes called mono ply, the fabric is woven differently as well. People I spoke with said a single ply belt actually has greater puncture resistance than a two ply belt. Another advantage to single ply belts is they are thinner in cross section and they weigh less. Cool! That may be an option.

At this point I started getting calls back on pricing, and I was pleasantly surprised. The first call was from McGuire Bearing, a SLC company whose belt shop is in Idaho Falls. Their available 220 PIW belts were 12” wide and they’d slit it to my desired width of 4 5/8”. You could get two 4 5/8” belts out of a 12" wide belt, but I’d have to pay for 12”. The price was $7.37 per foot for the 12" wide belt and a $50 slitting charge. (That might work, but let's see what else is out there.) Capital Rubber in Sacramento are very nice folks, and you can actually say “snowcat” and they don’t treat you like you have a third eye in your forehead! They gave me pricing on two different 220 PIW belts. One was the somewhat standard belt with 3/16" and 1/16" cover thicknesses, and the other had 1/8” and 1/16” cover thicknesses. Both numbers were less than $3 per foot.

The single ply 225 PIW belt turned out to be more expensive, though not egregiously so. However, the real problem is the somewhat standard method of attaching belt lacing with Flexco's special bolts for either their 375 or 550 series belt lacing is not recommended. They suggest using a completely different method of attachment involving riveting the lacing, and of course that requires some very expensive special tools. Pretty much not an option for us….

Okay, let’s stop for a second. P-Z’s tracks have 31 grousers and they’re spaced 6 1/16” apart. That requires a belt length of 31 x 6.0625 = 187.9375”. Let’s round up to 16 feet. Three bucks a foot times 16 feet is 48 bucks for a belt. No, it’s not punched and it doesn’t have belt lacing, but compared to Fall Line’s price of $225 per belt, that seems downright reasonable. Belt lacing adds up, but still that price difference is compelling.

The Capital Rubber representative (Andrew) asked where I lived, and when I told him he said shipping costs were going to be expensive, and I might be better off buying locally, or at least closer than Sacramento. I explored those options. But of the people I spoke with, Andrew was the really good; knowledgeable, friendly and helpful. I value customer service highly and if the final prices are close Andrew will get our business. I have since called California Industrial Rubber in Carlin, NV and Ram Enterprise in Elko, NV. I also called Ram’s SLC office, but they never responded to my voice mail message.

I eventually did speak with the Ram representative in Elko and he asked that I email him my requested belt specifics. I did so, and asked for pricing on all three belt options. When I did get an email with a price quote, they only quoted one of the three. No comments on the other two. Okay, I have never worked in sales, but this doesn’t strike me as difficult. If a customer requests pricing on three items - you give them pricing on three items. Yes it’s a cliche’, but I believe in the saying "You never get a second chance to make a first impression”. And, their quote was "FOB Sacramento”, which completely defeated the whole purpose of calling them. Incidentally, the pricing on the one belt they did quote… was almost twice that of Capital Rubber.

California Industrial Rubber's pricing was roughly a penny a foot more than Capital Rubber’s pricing. However, their delivery time to get the belting to their Carlin, NV location was estimated at about a month. The representative I worked with was Tommy, and he was great. Very knowledgeable and helpful, excellent pricing. I liked him, and wouldn’t hesitate to buy from him.

I placed the order with Andrew at Capital Rubber.

I also shopped the Flexco belt lacing. Flexco offers two styles of bolt-on lacing; the 375 series lacing is rated for 190 PIW, and the 550 series is rated for 300 PIW. Pricing is close, so I ordered the 550 style. The 550 lacing is available in different materials at different price points. They also offer different lacing widths and different fasteners for holding the ends of the lacing together. We use 5/16-24 Grade 8 bolts, so whatever means of holding the lacing that comes in the Flexco box doesn’t get used. I shopped for steel lacing with the cheapest method of holding the lacing closed. The vendor I bought from was MRO Supply in California. I also bought belt punches from them. They had the lowest prices and their customer service has been top notch. That’s a winning combination.

On the 2-ply, 220 PIW belting, Tucker used 3/8"-24 x 1 1/4” Grade 5 bolts and NyLok nuts. We go a different route, which we think is better. We use 3/8"-24 x 1 1/4” Grade 8 bolts and 3/8"-24 Class G Lock Nuts (think of them as flanged Stover nuts). Tucker uses no washers, either under the bolt head or under the nut. As I mentioned, we use flanged nuts which spreads the load in a larger area than a nut alone. We also install flat washers under the bolt heads, If track bolts get loose, the hardened bolt heads tend to wear into the grouser's steel surface. Using a washer spreads that load over a greater surface area. If you've ever watched a rubber belted Tucker’s tracks as it slowly moves over hard ground or a packed trail, you can see the grousers rock back and forth as they transition from one idler wheel to another. That rocking action accelerates the wear a bolt head makes into the grouser, or similarly what the nut does to a backing plate. Adding washers isn’t expensive, and it seems to offer an extra measure of protection. We use Grade 8 flat washers, either standard thickness or thick washers, depending on the application. Here again, we're purchasing significant quantities of fasteners, so it’s prudent to seek cheaper pricing. My supplier of choice is Redding Fasteners in Redding, CA. They have great selection and their pricing is excellent. I worked with Martin, and he was great.

At this point everything has been ordered, and once it arrives we have the task of punching all that belting (760 lineal feet) and installing the lacing.
 
I just finished rebelting a tucker and a Bombardier ski dozer 252 and have one more tucker to rebelt as I picked up a set of 30" grousers mine currently has 24". The minimum pulley size has a lot to do with the plys of course but we can usually choose this easily as the 220 PIW or the 330PIW is quite common. The thing that I found that varied a lot was the cover thicknesses as the top cover thickness changes a lot depending what the belts are designed to carry material wise for wear and longevity . My son and I picked up some 330PIW with a 1/16 bottom layer but it had a 1/2 inch thick maybe a little more top layer. We got this belt for next to nothing so we figured we had nothing to loose. I have a 16" 2hp planer. We cut the belt to the proper width which was 12" for the ski dozer and 9 1/2 for the tucker if my mempory is correct. We were anly using 2 belts per track and not 4 as that is what our machines currently had . We ran the cut belts through the planer and took down the 1/2 inch thick side to about 3/16. It did take a few passes and you need sharp blades but it worked very well. We have been running the belts on the ski dozer for 2 years and the tucker for one year. They are holding up perfectly. They bend around the idlers nicely and seem to rotate around very easily. This option may not be for everyone but if you do need new belting and some comes available that has too thick of a cvover it can be reduced to a useable thickness using a planer. I figured I would put this out there in case someone reading this and may have access to an otherwise undesireable belt due to its top cover thickness. On one machine I used the flexco fasteners the other we overlapped by 3 cleats. of course the fasteners make it a breeze to remove and reinstall the belts but they are quite pricey at least they were for what i could find locally
 
I just finished rebelting a tucker and a Bombardier ski dozer 252 and have one more tucker to rebelt as I picked up a set of 30" grousers mine currently has 24". The minimum pulley size has a lot to do with the plys of course but we can usually choose this easily as the 220 PIW or the 330PIW is quite common. The thing that I found that varied a lot was the cover thicknesses as the top cover thickness changes a lot depending what the belts are designed to carry material wise for wear and longevity . My son and I picked up some 330PIW with a 1/16 bottom layer but it had a 1/2 inch thick maybe a little more top layer. We got this belt for next to nothing so we figured we had nothing to loose. I have a 16" 2hp planer. We cut the belt to the proper width which was 12" for the ski dozer and 9 1/2 for the tucker if my mempory is correct. We were anly using 2 belts per track and not 4 as that is what our machines currently had . We ran the cut belts through the planer and took down the 1/2 inch thick side to about 3/16. It did take a few passes and you need sharp blades but it worked very well. We have been running the belts on the ski dozer for 2 years and the tucker for one year. They are holding up perfectly. They bend around the idlers nicely and seem to rotate around very easily. This option may not be for everyone but if you do need new belting and some comes available that has too thick of a cvover it can be reduced to a useable thickness using a planer. I figured I would put this out there in case someone reading this and may have access to an otherwise undesireable belt due to its top cover thickness. On one machine I used the flexco fasteners the other we overlapped by 3 cleats. of course the fasteners make it a breeze to remove and reinstall the belts but they are quite pricey at least they were for what i could find locally
That's interesting, and a clever way to make the belting work for a snowcat application. I'm not sure I would have ever thought of running the belting through a thickness planer!

I found significant variance in the pricing of Flexco belt lacing. SIGNIFICANT!

For standard Tucker 4 5/8" wide track belting you use four one inch sections at each end of the belt, so you need to order the lacing in multiples of four inches to minimize waste/leftover lacing. My recollection is I paid just over a C-note per box of 36" Flexco 550 series lacing from MRO Supply. Amazon's price was roughly $118, plus tax. Capital Rubber's quoted price was $122, plus tax and shipping. And to be fair, I found several vendors higher than that.
 
To update the thread with some more information, the punches I ordered from MRO Supply were Flexco model HP3 punches. If you go to Flexco’s website it says “Bolt Hole Diameter (in.) 3/8””.


Silly me, I’ve always thought 3/8” is 3/8”, or in decimal format .375. So imagine my surprise when I made a test punch in some old scrap belt and the diameter of the punched hole is .415. Huh? How is .415 equal to .375?

I measured the punch itself; the OD is .477, and the ID is .426.

I called Flexco and I was told the punch was made for a specific Flexco fastener. I said "Okay, then why does the product description on your website say 3/8”?” That stumped the customer service representative. I got a callback from someone else at Flexco saying “...the punch is made for their 3/8” fasteners, and that some belts are especially gummy and tend to close up after punching. The increased diameter accounts for that". That’s great, but on the belting we’re using the punched hole is excessively large and won’t work for us.

At this point I'm not sure what we’re going to use to punch the holes, but it won’t be a Flexco HP3 punch.
 
Why dont you just make one? - the one I use is based on flexco's design and took just a few minutes with thin angle grinder disc to make from an old VW valve stem. I have drilled over 2000 holes with this and it works a treat - each belt (246 holes) takes about an hour and the drill does all the work!
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CT,

Thanks for the suggestion. Scott and I talked about that very idea . When I spoke with Flexco I was told the HP2 - 5/16" punch would make a .345 hole.

Puckle,

Thanks also for your suggestion, and for sharing your belt punching experience. The one hole I punched with the Flexco tool was super easy, and that reinforces your experience. Your punch jig looks easy to make and that it would last a long time.

Doing some Googling after talking with Flexco, I found several suggestions to use a hollow paper punch bit. I found a set of three used ones on ebay and bought them. It will be a week or so before they get here, but I'll report back how they work. If they don't work well, Plan C is to make a couple on a lathe to our specifications.

Doing the math on three Tuckers worth of belting, we'll be punching north of 3,000 holes. Scott and I (much more Scott than I) have been working on a design for a device to use his Ironworker machine to do the punching. The idea is to punch two holes simultaneously. But after seeing Puckle's jig and how fast he was able to punch belts, perhaps we'll go that route. If we could achieve his proficiency and speed, each of us could punch three belts in an hour. That would only be eight hours to punch all 48 belts....
 
my jig is like Puckle's except I have an edge guide as well as index pins. I used an air drill with the hp-1 punch and it did very well. Every two or three holes I would dip the bit into a cup of silicon oil which helps move the slugs out. BTW the slugs come out hot enough to leave a mark. produced nice clean holes and the heat seemed to seal the cording as well.
 
I also had made a punch tool like Puckle's after seeing a flexco origional and seeing how easy they were to make . The nice thing about them is the piece that has been punched out does not stick in the tool like a regular punch. With a drill it drills super easy and placing the jig that we made out of a piece of 16ga metal took as long as punching the holes. On our jig one thing we did do was put a few tabs down the side of it to bump up against the belt. This made it easy for placement and kept the holes perfectly aligned to the edge of the belt. We also found it useful to drill a small hole in the jig at the far end and use a smalll sheet metal screw to ensure the jig does not move on the rubber belt being drilled. It made the accuracy much better as it doesnt take much movement to start to get things out of wack. We could drill a complete track with 2 people in an evening easily without working very hard. They get easier the more you do as you learn the little tricks by the time blackfoot tucker is done with all of his he should be down to minutes a track LOL
 
All the supplies for the re-belting process finally arrived….

Scott and I ended up using punches of our own design and manufacture. We also made our own punching jigs to get the hole layout correct. We started with two small pieces of leftover 1/8” thick steel sheet Scott had on hand. He welded a piece of 1/2” square tube along one side of the steel sheet to act as a locating fence for the belting. I have a milling machine with a DRO (Digital Read Out) at a second home and that allows one to be really precise. I took the pieces of steel there to layout and drill the holes. I also took a short length of some steel bar stock and machined some 3/8” thick collars with a hole in the center slightly larger than the punch's OD. The idea was to weld the collars to the steel sheet so they would help keep the punch oriented perpendicular to the belt during the punching process. I also drilled holes for two locating pins on the punching jigs.

Our punching setup has a piece of leftover 1/2” plywood laying on top of the big steel table at Scott’s shop. Then we lay a length of belt on top of the plywood. The punching jig is positioned so the first two holes for the grousers are about 4” from the end of the belt, and of course the jig’s fence is aligned with the edge of the belt. Then we use a sheet metal Vise Grip (they have pads on the ends of the arms) to hold the jig, belt and plywood in proper alignment to the steel table. At that point we punch the first two holes Next, the Vise Grip is released and the jig is positioned with the two locating pins placed in the two newly punch holes. We hold tension on the jig pushing it toward the end we started from, and re clamp the Vise Grip. Then we punch the next four holes in the belt using the four locations on the jig. And the process of releasing the Vise Grip and moving the jig repeats…and so on.

The layout of the holes on the jig is virtually “dead nuts” accurate but our first attempt left a bunch of holes in less than desired spacing. Huh, how can this be? And that's why we revised our technique to hold tension on the jig until the Vise Grip has been clamped. Once we did that, we punched a belt for the 1544 and measured the distance from the start of the first punched hole to the start of the last. The 1500 series belting was ordered at 13’ 6”, but they all have been at least 14’ so far. The belts were long enough that we punched an extra set of holes. There are 26 grousers, but we punched for 27. That means there are 26 spaces between the punched holes in the belt. The grouser spacing is 6 1/16”, so the distance should be 26 x 6.0625 = 157.625”. The actual measurement was 1/16” less at 157.5625. That’s pretty darn close.

Thus far we have only punched eight belts, so we’re still building proficiency. None the less, we measure each belt before starting the punching process and then we roll up the punched belt and secure it with some rebar tie wire to set in a pile. We’ll go back later and add the belt lacing which will involve cutting the belting to the proper length on both ends, punching smaller diameter holes for the belt lacing's fasteners, and installing the lacing. Thus far, it seems to take us about 15 minutes to punch one belt with all the grouser holes for a 1500 series machine. We intend to made a jig to punch the holes for the belt lacing and also give us a cut reference length for the belting. Once we have that done I estimate it will take us no more than 10 minutes to cut the belts to exact length, punch the holes for the belt lacing and install it. But let’s be conservative and say 15 minutes. That means a total of 30 minutes for each belt.

I’m mentioning all this, and going into considerable detail, because I want to give others the confidence that they too can do this.

Here’s some incentive: The total cost for the delivered belting was $2,400 and the cost of the belt lacing was about $685. Those numbers are for 48 belts; 16 x 1500 series belts, 16 x 1600 series belts, and 16 extra long 1600 series belts. But simply adding up the cost and dividing by 48 yields a cost per belt of $64.27. And that’s an all-in cost (though it doesn’t include the cost of the steel involved in our punches or jigs). IIRC, Fall Line charges $205 for a 1500 series belt and $225 for a 1600 series belt, but those numbers don’t include sales tax or shipping. $205 - $64 = $141. So we’re saving $141 per belt and we can conservatively do two complete belts per hour. Add shipping and tax to Fall Line’s belt prices and we’re saving $300 an hour, though there are two of us, so it’s half that.

If two certifiable knuckleheads can do this - you can too!

Here are some pics.

This is our punching jig. You can see the two locating pins at the top, the four collars to align the punch and the worn area between the four collars is showing the effects of the Vise Grip clamping.

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This is a view of the bottom showing the locating pins and the side fence.

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This is a first generation punch. I'll explain more about that in a thread update.

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As an update, Scott had cataract surgery to replace the lens in one eye, and he’ll go back in a few days to have the lens in the other eye replaced. Whenever I have surgery, I am a very compliant patient. If the doctor says “Do this” or “Don’t do that”, I follow the instructions. Some of you have met Scott in person, others only know him by my descriptive words in various threads, but suffice it to say he is less compliant than good ol’ BFT. My guess is this surprises absolutely no one. Our re-belting progress has been slowed appreciably.

I had made four punches at the time I made the grouser hole punching jigs. As I mentioned in the first post, we punched only eight belts, and the punch we used was showing ill effects. Based upon that there was no way we’d be able to punch all 48 belts with the four punches. I talked to my machinist buddy back in Vermont for his thoughts on making punches that would actually hold up. He suggested using 4140 steel for the punches, and to harden them, heat them to red hot and keep them there for a few minutes, then quench them in oil to cool them. I made two new punches from 4140 steel and Scott heat treated and quenched ‘em in oil.

Version two.

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Getting heat treated. You can see the second punch to the right of the Vise Grip after heat treatment and quenching.

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In the meantime, we also a bunch of measurements and designed the jig that we’ll use to cut the punched belts to their correct length and punch the holes to attach the belt lacing to the belting. Just like with the other jig, I drilled the holes on the mill and we added collars for improved punch alignment.

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We worked last night and punched 14 belts in just about three hours. We used one of the new punches, and it’s holding up well. That completed the grouser hole punching on the 1544’s belts, and we're now doing CHUGzilla’s. Speaking of punching…

I think most forum members remember the 2000 Presidential election and how the outcome came down to Florida. There were issues with punched paper ballots, and we learned the punched pieces were called “chads”. Scott of course started calling the punched pieces of rubber belting chads. They’re a bit of a pain in the neck as they have to be removed from the punch and they tend to go everywhere. (I think Scott will be finding errant chads in his shop for months.) How appropriate that these obnoxious little things are called chads... and The Infamous WBJ1’s first name is…Chad.

Hundreds of Chads. Trust me; a lot got away!

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Scott had surgery on his second eye and it seems (most thankfully) that was successful as well. He's pretty much back to his usual self; poking poor ol’ BFT at any, and every, opportunity…in the best (or worst) tradition of The Infamous WBJ1….

We finished the grouser hole punching on all 48 belts with the second generation punch made from 4140 steel, and it held up well. Scott sharpened the punch a few times, but that was no big deal. The punch is designed to self eject the chads and sometimes that works, and sometimes not. We dip the punch in water between punches to keep it cool, and when the chads self eject the punching process goes MUCH faster. The 1544 has 26 sets of grouser holes per belt and CHUGSzilla has 31, so it does take a bit longer. But when the chads self eject it takes only about 10 minutes to punch all the grouser holes in one of CHUGSzilla’s belts. Thundercat’s belts were ordered extra long on purpose, and Capital Rubber cut them longer still. Basically we start at one end and punch holes all the way to the end of the belt, not counting how many sets of holes we’re punching., Then when I roll up the punched belt I’ll usually count the holes, and some belts have as many as 40 sets of holes. It obviously takes longer to punch 40 than 26 but the process went smoothly.

We’ve started the process of cutting the belts to the proper length, punching for the belt lacing and then installing the lacing. We are still refining our procedure/technique so that also means we’re slower than we should be. We’ve done four of the 1544’s belts and there’s not much to report. We do one end to completion and carefully count grouser holes to ensure the finished belt will be the correct length before working on the other end. We also make sure we install the lacing and bolts on the correct side of the belting (thicker rubber cover to the outside).

The Legendary RedSqwrl sent me some pics of what he uses to punch belts which include some plug cutters for wood and some hollow punches for leather/gasket material, as well as an assortment of different size Flexco punches. Flexco makes a tool to install the nuts used to bolt the lacing to the belting. He uses one of those. We use a standard 1/4" drive, deep six point socket that I cut the end off square on my lathe and chamfered the end somewhat to allow the socket to reach deeper into the tapered part of the belt lacing. (I'll try to get some pics posted in the next update.)

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Tucker carriers have an adjustable end. One end of the carrier slides in and out from the carrier to adjust belt tension. That’s done with a 3/4-10 “bolt” with one end turned down in diameter and chamfered. I put bolt in quotes because it’s really a length of threaded rod with a nut welded on the end. There is also a second nut used as a jam nut to hold the bolt at the proper length. Over the years these adjusters can get to look pretty ugly. I don’t know why, but on our 1544 we've had issues with broken adjusting bolts. We discovered one was broken when we got the machine, another basically came out at SV 2021, and a third broke afterward. That same machinist friend I mentioned above made me a set of beautiful stainless steel adjusting bolts for Thundercat. I thought I’d make some new adjusting bolts for the 1544 and bought some stainless steel threaded rod and nuts for the project. When I made the second generation punches, I also did the machining operations on the stainless steel threaded rod and Scott then tig welded nuts onto the ends of the threaded rod.

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CHUGSzilla will get a set as well. But perhaps we should soak those in a solution of hydrogen peroxide, vinegar and salt to create a rust patina matching the ugliness of the green paint?
 
Great work and wonderful write up as usual!

There's just one part that doesn't add up! The ole Sweet WBJ1 just sits by nice and quietly and just constantly gets picked on. This makes me wonder if Scott being the harasser is truly accurate.... I suspect poor ole Scott is just beat up on constantly from BFT harassment, but he just keeps on taking it. Have we possibly uncovered a new thing here?? "Battered Gorilla Syndrome"????
 
Great work and wonderful write up as usual!

There's just one part that doesn't add up! The ole Sweet WBJ1 just sits by nice and quietly and just constantly gets picked on. This makes me wonder if Scott being the harasser is truly accurate.... I suspect poor ole Scott is just beat up on constantly from BFT harassment, but he just keeps on taking it. Have we possibly uncovered a new thing here?? "Battered Gorilla Syndrome"????
Hah! “Battered Gorilla Syndrome”. That’s preposterous!!!

WBJ1, I’m sure you excelled in “creative writing” classes, because you are certainly creative, and you have a very fertile imagination. VERY!

BTW, I read your post to Scott and he didn’t just chuckle at the Battered Gorilla Syndrome comment, he gave a full, deep, belly laugh. Of course he also took it as motivation to double-down on poking good ol’ BFT.
 
We got into a production rhythm in completing the various track belts. The first night we did four, and the second night we got a late start, but seemed to hit our stride and cranked out 12. We finished the last two 1544 belts, and then installed all the new belts on the 1544. Once that was complete, we turned our attention to CHUGSzilla’s belts. We did all 16 in one night!

For some period in the 1544’s life the machine was operated with loose grouser bolts. I mentioned this previously, but when that’s done the hardened bolt head wears away part of the grouser and also part of the bolt head. That means when it’s time to remove the bolts, there is less bolt head for a wrench or socket to grab. That’s bad enough, but after many years the nuts and bolts have rusted a fair bit and it can take some torque to loosen the nuts. Now that smaller bolt head is a problem - because in some cases there just isn’t enough for a wrench or socket to get a satisfactory grip. The result means Scott is using his cutting torch to cut the problematic fasteners.

Here’s a pic of one of those loose grouser bolts depicting damage to the grouser and the bolt head.

IMG_2967.jpeg


Previously, I mentioned that the more-or-less standard belt lacing used on Tuckers is Flexco 375 series lacing. In this project we opted for Flexco’s 550 series lacing instead. The price difference is minimal, but we think the advantages are enough to justify the change.

The 375 series lacing comes in strips of various lengths and in is designed to be used in one inch increments. A Tucker belt is 4 1/2” - 4 5/8” wide, so one would use four inches of lacing on each end. The 375 series lacing is rated at 190 PIW (Pounds per Inch Width). Quick math: 190 x 4 = 760 pounds.

Flexco’s 550 series lacing also comes in strips but it comes in 1.44" increments. So on that same Tucker belt one would use three segments and they would be 4.32 inches wide. The 550 series lacing is rated quite a bit higher at 300 PIW. More quick math: 300 x 4.32 = 1,296 pounds. That’s a whole lot more strength! The belting we’re using is rated at 220 PIW, and it’s 4 5/8 inches wide. That means its strength calculates as 4 5/8 x 220 = 1017.5 pounds. The belting is 34% stronger than the 375 series lacing. However, the 550 series lacing is 27% stronger than the belting.

Additionally, the 375 series lacing has a lot more “fingers” or “teeth” that interlock with the lacing on the other end of the belt. When installed, one side of the lacing must be slightly offset so the two ends of the rubber belt are slightly offset from one another. It’s not a big deal, but it doesn’t look “right”. The 550 series lacing has fewer teeth that interlock and they're offset. So when one end of a belt is secured to the other end, they line up and the belt ends match more closely.

Some pics.

A section of 550 series lacing.

IMG_2959.jpeg


The tapered nut that fits into the tapered part of the lacing.

IMG_2960.jpeg


The modified socket to fit into the tapered part of the lacing.

IMG_2961.jpeg


We install all new hardware when replacing belts. Here you can see extra-thick Grade 8 flat washers under the bolt heads. This keeps the bolt heads from sinking into the previously sunk-in areas around the bolt heads.

IMG_2966.jpeg


A completed and installed track assembly.

IMG_2965.jpeg


However, there are a couple of drawbacks to the 550 series lacing I should point out:

The longer width of the 550 series lacing means the bolt head and the nut would protrude a bit past the belting. That’s mostly okay between the two belts on each side of grouser center, but you definitely don’t want anything protruding on the drive sprocket side of the belting, and we prefer not to have anything sticking out past the belting on the outside. That means one needs to trim away about .060 from the Flexco lacing on certain sections. We do it with a cutoff wheel on an angle grinder.

The bolts used to secure the two ends of the lacing together also require a little work. For belts with 375 series lacing, we use 5/16-24 Grade 8 bolts 4 1/2" long and Stover nuts. Easy-peazy. With the 550 series lacing 4 1/2” bolts are too short. It seems 4 3/4” bolts are not made, or at least none of the suppliers I use carry them. So we buy 5” bolts and cut them down, then slightly chamfer the bolt ends. We install the bolts from the outside in, meaning the two nut ends are next to each other.

IMG_3007.jpeg


So, yes the 550 series lacing requires some extra work. We think it’s worth it, but others may not.

I have previous written that changing rubber belting is a PITA… and it is. I’ve also written that doing this on the ground is tough on the knees, and the lower back. That’s also true. The big steel table at Scott’s shop has been occupied with shop projects - so we’re working on the floor. Ugh!

Except we positioned the track in a serpentine pattern on its side on the floor. We’re on opposite sides of the track and we work together on the same fastener simultaneously. For example, Scott can be holding our socket tool on a grouser bolt head while I’m using the impact wrench on the nut side. We’re both pushing but the opposing forces cancel each other out. This would only work with two people working together. We'll work on the top two belts at the same time, and then turn the track over and do the other two belts. In the process we sit on low stools, or ones with wheels, so we're not on our knees. This is way, way better than having the track laid out flat on the floor.
 
To update the thread with some more information, the punches I ordered from MRO Supply were Flexco model HP3 punches. If you go to Flexco’s website it says “Bolt Hole Diameter (in.) 3/8””.


Silly me, I’ve always thought 3/8” is 3/8”, or in decimal format .375. So imagine my surprise when I made a test punch in some old scrap belt and the diameter of the punched hole is .415. Huh? How is .415 equal to .375?

I measured the punch itself; the OD is .477, and the ID is .426.

I called Flexco and I was told the punch was made for a specific Flexco fastener. I said "Okay, then why does the product description on your website say 3/8”?” That stumped the customer service representative. I got a callback from someone else at Flexco saying “...the punch is made for their 3/8” fasteners, and that some belts are especially gummy and tend to close up after punching. The increased diameter accounts for that". That’s great, but on the belting we’re using the punched hole is excessively large and won’t work for us.

At this point I'm not sure what we’re going to use to punch the holes, but it won’t be a Flexco HP3 punch.
I used "paper drills" off amazon. Stupid cheap and several sizes.
 
We got into a production rhythm in completing the various track belts. The first night we did four, and the second night we got a late start, but seemed to hit our stride and cranked out 12. We finished the last two 1544 belts, and then installed all the new belts on the 1544. Once that was complete, we turned our attention to CHUGSzilla’s belts. We did all 16 in one night!

For some period in the 1544’s life the machine was operated with loose grouser bolts. I mentioned this previously, but when that’s done the hardened bolt head wears away part of the grouser and also part of the bolt head. That means when it’s time to remove the bolts, there is less bolt head for a wrench or socket to grab. That’s bad enough, but after many years the nuts and bolts have rusted a fair bit and it can take some torque to loosen the nuts. Now that smaller bolt head is a problem - because in some cases there just isn’t enough for a wrench or socket to get a satisfactory grip. The result means Scott is using his cutting torch to cut the problematic fasteners.

Here’s a pic of one of those loose grouser bolts depicting damage to the grouser and the bolt head.

View attachment 165899

Previously, I mentioned that the more-or-less standard belt lacing used on Tuckers is Flexco 375 series lacing. In this project we opted for Flexco’s 550 series lacing instead. The price difference is minimal, but we think the advantages are enough to justify the change.

The 375 series lacing comes in strips of various lengths and in is designed to be used in one inch increments. A Tucker belt is 4 1/2” - 4 5/8” wide, so one would use four inches of lacing on each end. The 375 series lacing is rated at 190 PIW (Pounds per Inch Width). Quick math: 190 x 4 = 760 pounds.

Flexco’s 550 series lacing also comes in strips but it comes in 1.44" increments. So on that same Tucker belt one would use three segments and they would be 4.32 inches wide. The 550 series lacing is rated quite a bit higher at 300 PIW. More quick math: 300 x 4.32 = 1,296 pounds. That’s a whole lot more strength! The belting we’re using is rated at 220 PIW, and it’s 4 5/8 inches wide. That means its strength calculates as 4 5/8 x 220 = 1017.5 pounds. The belting is 34% stronger than the 375 series lacing. However, the 550 series lacing is 27% stronger than the belting.

Additionally, the 375 series lacing has a lot more “fingers” or “teeth” that interlock with the lacing on the other end of the belt. When installed, one side of the lacing must be slightly offset so the two ends of the rubber belt are slightly offset from one another. It’s not a big deal, but it doesn’t look “right”. The 550 series lacing has fewer teeth that interlock and they're offset. So when one end of a belt is secured to the other end, they line up and the belt ends match more closely.

Some pics.

A section of 550 series lacing.

View attachment 165900

The tapered nut that fits into the tapered part of the lacing.

View attachment 165901

The modified socket to fit into the tapered part of the lacing.

View attachment 165902

We install all new hardware when replacing belts. Here you can see extra-thick Grade 8 flat washers under the bolt heads. This keeps the bolt heads from sinking into the previously sunk-in areas around the bolt heads.

View attachment 165903

A completed and installed track assembly.

View attachment 165904

However, there are a couple of drawbacks to the 550 series lacing I should point out:

The longer width of the 550 series lacing means the bolt head and the nut would protrude a bit past the belting. That’s mostly okay between the two belts on each side of grouser center, but you definitely don’t want anything protruding on the drive sprocket side of the belting, and we prefer not to have anything sticking out past the belting on the outside. That means one needs to trim away about .060 from the Flexco lacing on certain sections. We do it with a cutoff wheel on an angle grinder.

The bolts used to secure the two ends of the lacing together also require a little work. For belts with 375 series lacing, we use 5/16-24 Grade 8 bolts 4 1/2" long and Stover nuts. Easy-peazy. With the 550 series lacing 4 1/2” bolts are too short. It seems 4 3/4” bolts are not made, or at least none of the suppliers I use carry them. So we buy 5” bolts and cut them down, then slightly chamfer the bolt ends. We install the bolts from the outside in, meaning the two nut ends are next to each other.

View attachment 165905

So, yes the 550 series lacing requires some extra work. We think it’s worth it, but others may not.

I have previous written that changing rubber belting is a PITA… and it is. I’ve also written that doing this on the ground is tough on the knees, and the lower back. That’s also true. The big steel table at Scott’s shop has been occupied with shop projects - so we’re working on the floor. Ugh!

Except we positioned the track in a serpentine pattern on its side on the floor. We’re on opposite sides of the track and we work together on the same fastener simultaneously. For example, Scott can be holding our socket tool on a grouser bolt head while I’m using the impact wrench on the nut side. We’re both pushing but the opposing forces cancel each other out. This would only work with two people working together. We'll work on the top two belts at the same time, and then turn the track over and do the other two belts. In the process we sit on low stools, or ones with wheels, so we're not on our knees. This is way, way better than having the track laid out flat on the floor.
I just spent 12 hours taking apart one track....by myself, on the ground, sitting on a stool most of the time. I can hardly move now, pretty much all stove up. Put the track on its side, serpentine as you did. The only way to get access and see what you're doing. Can hardly wait to do the other track....ughhh.
 
I just spent 12 hours taking apart one track....by myself, on the ground, sitting on a stool most of the time. I can hardly move now, pretty much all stove up. Put the track on its side, serpentine as you did. The only way to get access and see what you're doing. Can hardly wait to do the other track....ughhh.
Boy Toys,

I feel your pain. But on the bright side, think how long the existing belts lasted. This should be a "once and done" task....

Sasquatch,

We tried the paper punches/drills and they did not work at all well for us. The Flexco punches, as well as the ones of our own design, are sharpened on the outside of the punch. In that fashion, it cuts a plug the diameter of the inside of the punch. The paper punches I bought were sharpened on the inside, so they cut a hole equal to the outside diameter. The rubber plug is larger than the inside diameter and now fits tightly in the punch’s hollow shank. Removing the plug was a definite PITA, and in punching complete sets of belting for three Tuckers, there were literally thousands of plugs. The shank was also a very thin wall and deformed easily.

I’m glad they worked for you, but our experience was unsatisfactory.
 
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