welderwade
New member
it seem like it dont matter how tight i tighten the track it still wants to hook as its coming off the bottom of the gear, any good ideas? thanks
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tighten track on j5
- Thread starter welderwade
- Start date
welderwade
New member
the cleats are hooking in the botton of the gear as it leaves.
Snowtrac Nome
member formerly known as dds
it sounds like a timing problem with your grousers maybe something like they are a little too close together, or the track has stretched to the point they are too far apart. Brad is out on an expedition, looking for kristies that run, he would be the guy to ask about your pitch. maybe pixie would also know.
rcc
Member
did you change anything? as with new drive sprockets they recommend keeping them wet as much as possible to break them in. As with new tracks depending on the plys and PIW. and pitch of holes needs to be very accurate.
OR your drive sprockets are old and squished in wore out so to speak.
OR your drive sprockets are old and squished in wore out so to speak.
welderwade
New member
yes rcc thats whats happen the track is coming up toward the front wheel. what can i do to fix it? will track tighting fix it?
welderwade
New member
no its a different j5 not sure of the height but lower in the front
rcc
Member
Ok so you have more than one J5... me too I have 3 of them and a BR100+...
With your problem on this machine, not knowing anything other than the front of the machine is low than the back, i would loosen the track so the front of the J5 is about 1" higher than the back, you may have the track to tight. The drive sprocket needs to let "go" of the track link (grouser), the sprockets is hanging onto the grouser and pushing it in between the sprocket and front wheel. (The sprocket should only be grabbing 4 - 5 grousers max.).
You may want to check the springs also on this machine as they may be broken or move the "link" to the rear bolt hole on the walker beam, if it is not there already.
Springs should not be "soft". One of my concerns with using passenger vehicle springs (truck or car) is that they are made to be "progressive" soft at first to absorb the bump but then quickly "hard" to take a load or hit. Equipment springs are usually what i would call "wound tight or one pitch one diameter" no soft spot. Look at the design easy to tell the difference.
When i pull a J5 spring to load and lock it to install, it is a hard pull for the 2 - 3" where I lock it (with a U clamp), that is about all you will get unless you have one hell of a pull on it, then good luck and have you safety gear on...!
Sorry to run on about this, hope this is helpful...
With your problem on this machine, not knowing anything other than the front of the machine is low than the back, i would loosen the track so the front of the J5 is about 1" higher than the back, you may have the track to tight. The drive sprocket needs to let "go" of the track link (grouser), the sprockets is hanging onto the grouser and pushing it in between the sprocket and front wheel. (The sprocket should only be grabbing 4 - 5 grousers max.).
You may want to check the springs also on this machine as they may be broken or move the "link" to the rear bolt hole on the walker beam, if it is not there already.
Springs should not be "soft". One of my concerns with using passenger vehicle springs (truck or car) is that they are made to be "progressive" soft at first to absorb the bump but then quickly "hard" to take a load or hit. Equipment springs are usually what i would call "wound tight or one pitch one diameter" no soft spot. Look at the design easy to tell the difference.
When i pull a J5 spring to load and lock it to install, it is a hard pull for the 2 - 3" where I lock it (with a U clamp), that is about all you will get unless you have one hell of a pull on it, then good luck and have you safety gear on...!
Sorry to run on about this, hope this is helpful...
pixie
Well-known member
I'd guess that your springs are weak or it's a light gauge machine.
If it's the lighter gauge metal tub, no amount of tightening the tracks will cure it as the body flexes when power is applied and the differential gets closer to the rear axle mount making the tracks loose. My machine like that; the tracks hit the front wheel bogie often enough to wear right thru the metal !!
If it's a heavy gauge tub, you need new/heavier springs.
If it's the lighter gauge metal tub, no amount of tightening the tracks will cure it as the body flexes when power is applied and the differential gets closer to the rear axle mount making the tracks loose. My machine like that; the tracks hit the front wheel bogie often enough to wear right thru the metal !!
If it's a heavy gauge tub, you need new/heavier springs.
welderwade
New member
pixie....it was ok past 2 years but now i changed 2 tires on both sides and now its slipping on the sprocket. when i back up its ok it stays in the sprocket.thanks
rcc
Member
A few pictures of the problem area would be worth more than a hundred of our guesses... as i mentioned before, something changed.
Are the new tires to specification, are the sprockets wore out, spring problem? if the front is lower than the back you have a problem.
I have both, the older light gauge machine and two heavy gauge machine, both are strong as can be, no such flex, the old 1959 pulls a T6 trailers loaded with a small excavator (or hard wood) into the cottage over very rough rocky and mud (clay) terrain here in Ontario, all three machines work the same and all parts except the wheel axles & bearings are the same.
Look forward to you finding out what is going on with you machine and sharing it with us.
Are the new tires to specification, are the sprockets wore out, spring problem? if the front is lower than the back you have a problem.
I have both, the older light gauge machine and two heavy gauge machine, both are strong as can be, no such flex, the old 1959 pulls a T6 trailers loaded with a small excavator (or hard wood) into the cottage over very rough rocky and mud (clay) terrain here in Ontario, all three machines work the same and all parts except the wheel axles & bearings are the same.
Look forward to you finding out what is going on with you machine and sharing it with us.
welderwade
New member
rcc...yesterday had to walk out of the woods 8 km to get jack which i forgot, then tighten the track some more then tried to get out of the woods very slowy because the track kept jumping the the sprockets. but when i go in reverse it stay in the sprockets...........yes rcc the front is lower the the back. my camera dont work thats why i got no pics on sorry..... help me please
rcc
Member
Ouch! That makes for along day!
If you keep tightening the adjuster the back wheel is going to come off the walker beam! How much more adjusting can you do? If all the axle bearing are good, wheels straight and the sprocket in good condition, I would suspect your track(s) may be rotten and pulling apart. What is the condition of the rubber tracks?
If you keep tightening the adjuster the back wheel is going to come off the walker beam! How much more adjusting can you do? If all the axle bearing are good, wheels straight and the sprocket in good condition, I would suspect your track(s) may be rotten and pulling apart. What is the condition of the rubber tracks?
rcc
Member
Also, you should be looking at the springs (cans) and links that connect the walker beam to the front wheel axle assy. If you are low on the front that mean the spring(s) are broke or cracked.
Question do both tracks what to come off or just one side?
At this point I would look at;
Tracks - overall condition any tearing, they rot from the inside, if they are original continuous tracks with steel internal strands, it is hard to notice, other than you continually adjust until the break... Keep a few short 1/4" or 5/16" chains and some bolts to lash them back together to get out of the bush.
Springs -as mentioned above
Wheels are straight, looking from the back of machine.
Drive Sprockets are in good shape.
That's about everything that I can think of. Hope this is helpful.
Question do both tracks what to come off or just one side?
At this point I would look at;
Tracks - overall condition any tearing, they rot from the inside, if they are original continuous tracks with steel internal strands, it is hard to notice, other than you continually adjust until the break... Keep a few short 1/4" or 5/16" chains and some bolts to lash them back together to get out of the bush.
Springs -as mentioned above
Wheels are straight, looking from the back of machine.
Drive Sprockets are in good shape.
That's about everything that I can think of. Hope this is helpful.
welderwade
New member
thanks rcc....my tracks are in good shape all new bearings. sprockets are not great but not too bad,and the wheels are straight. now if much be springs.thanks for all your help.
Snowtrac Nome
member formerly known as dds
question on your new tires are they foam filled, I noticed my foamed pos tires would compress under every guide now that I have perma groomer wheels up front there is no compression on the wheels. the guys at alpine guide tires told me the biggest problem with foamed tires is it is not injected under enough pressure making the machine operate like it has low tire pressure. I was told if foaming snow cat wheels they must be filled to 90 nt0 100 psi
rcc
Member
Yes alpine guide is right on with that... all my PU filled tires are filled to 90psi same as my air filled tires, under heavy load you need the 80/90 psi. Even my BR100+ runs best with 80/90 psi air with the rear PU filled to 90psi.
When i have had flats the track did not peal off the drive sprocket.
When i have had flats the track did not peal off the drive sprocket.
welderwade
New member
none of my tires are foam filled they all have tubes..i have it all apart now making cans with ford ranger springs,will let you know when done how its all complete.