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Thiokol Tilting Trailer Repair

Blackfoot Tucker

Well-known member
GOLD Patron
When I bought TUG (DMC 1450) the package included a factory-supplied tandem axle, tilting trailer. But as is often the case there were issues, and working through those was a genuine pain in the neck. Trailers come with a VIN sticker or plate which has the manufacturer as well as the serial number, and usually other pertinent data such as the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) and the date of manufacture. But no such sticker or plate could be found. If you are (logically) wondering how that could be, the original purchaser was the .gov, and the rules that apply to us don’t seem to apply to them. Imagine that?

The trailer's damping or cushioning cylinder for the tilting action was missing, though you could see exactly where it mounted. Without any cushioning or damping it was essentially a teeter totter, totally depending on gravity. That’s truly a less-than optimal-setup, and loading or unloading the snowcat can provide an "unwelcome level of excitement” (How’s that for phraseology?).

I knew a company called Maxey, out of Fort Collins, CO builds tilting snowcat trailers, and I reached out to them first. The parts lady was initially very helpful, but when it turned out the trailer wasn’t a Maxey, help dried up fast. I then contacted Peterson Equipment in Logan, UT as they were a Thiokol/DMC/LMC dealer for many years. That parts lady was also helpful, and she emailed me a copy of the original order sheet but that only said “4-ton Trailer, pintle hitch” and the serial number. In our conversation she told me a trailer company in Nevada had supplied trailers to Thiokol/DMC/LMC per Thiokol’s design. She thought the name of that company was Southwest Trailer but also said they had gone out of business many years ago. She suggested I reach out to Bailey Hydraulics for help. I called them and yet another nice lady tried to help. She said “It would be a custom cylinder, they start at $1,000, and there is a 31 week lead time”. That wasn’t going to work….

Scott and I took multiple measurements from the trailer and laid out the trailer’s cylinder mounting dimensions along with the hinge point on his CAD system. That allowed us to determine the optimal hydraulic cylinder configuration and see exactly how the geometry worked. Then lots of time spent doing Internet research. Many cushioning cylinder setups use a standard hydraulic cylinder with an external hose running between the two hydraulic ports with a valve to regulate the flow of fluid. But the original cylinders have no hose or valve and I preferred that setup. Fluid has to flow back and forth through the piston as the trailer tilts up and/or down. More research, more dead ends, and I finally found a trailer company that offered a tilt trailer cushion cylinder - though the cylinder dimensions wouldn’t work for our application. Still though, this was a step in the right direction, and they might have some information... so I called 'em. The parts guy was very nice and when I explained our situation, he told me the name of the company that supplied their cylinders. Progress at last!

I then reached out to them, and they too were very helpful. The gentleman looked over drawings of their cushion cylinders, and I was stunned when he said the size of the orifice was .035. That is downright tiny! In fact, in my drill index the smallest drill bit I have is.038. I was very concerned about the difficulty of drilling such a hole with what is basically a very delicate drill bit. I ordered a new cylinder, and after confirming it fit properly on the trailer, we disassembled the cylinder to drill the piston. The piston itself is roughly an inch thick and Scott pointed out while the orifice had to be .038, we could drill most of the way through the piston with a larger drill bit with only a small portion of the piston being .038. And that's what we did. Honestly, my concerns were for naught as the drilling process (using Scott’s drill dress) was uneventful. The cylinder reassembly went smoothly and then we had to add hydraulic fluid. We used ATF, but the question is how much fluid to add? We extended the cylinder to the proper dimension with the trailer tilted up and filled the end of the cylinder without the piston rod, then added a small amount of fluid to the other side. Then we installed the cylinder and it came time for the moment of truth…would it work?

And…. it dampened the tilt considerably, but part of the tilting action went pretty fast while most was nice and slow. We concluded there was too much air and not enough fluid in the cylinder, so off it came to add some more fluid. I wish I could tell you we precisely calculated the amount of fluid, and added that exact amount. But the reality is we used the tried and true TLAR method: (That Looks About Right). And after adding more fluid and reinstalling the cylinder - the tilting action is smooth and controlled.

Here's a pic of the installed cylinder.

IMG_2141.jpeg


When all is said and done we probably have 12 hours of time and a couple hundred bucks in sorting out this issue. Will a customer pay more for having a damping cylinder on the trailer? Probably not, and they certainly wouldn’t pay market rates for our time. But knowing that we’re selling a trailer that’s considerably safer to load and unload provides enough compensation for us. Details matter, even if they’re not always appreciated….
 
Great things to know! In the Ag world we have hydraulic fittings with different sized orifices but I like your way of keeping it OEM… Does it matter if the hole is placed on the way top, side, or bottom? As the bottom should have no chance for air passage…?
 
I have been watching this thread a bit.
Actually....IMHO A pressure rated hydraulic line between the two cylinder ports with an adjustable flow control in the line (Bidirectional) would be perfect.....

The needle valve type (Non check valve) would allow the flow to be adjusted to suit the particular load......Start with the valve almost closed and add the load........Adjust the control to get the trailer deck to drop at the desired speed......

These valves have a set screw that secures the adjustment......And there are some that require a screw driver and have a hex nut to lock the valve once it is set....

I prefer the ones with the knob.. as in the piccy

Only one thing to take into consideration......The rod end of the cylinder has less capacity than the non rod end.....

This can be compensated for by adding a small accumulater on the rod end to allow the extra oil a place to go....


This will allow both sides of the system to be air free......As the rod end fills up (Deck collapsing) the extra oil can enter the accumulator after the cylinder is full.....No air pockets and not unexpected sudden drops....Fill the non rod end full .....

This system will give you a broad range of cylinder choices (As long as the length is correct.....No special cylinder required.

Use Field serviceable (Non crimp fittings) Easy to assemble with a vise and hand tools..... Choose the size and style needed to fit the location.

Connect the Flow control solid the the rod end port and use a 90 degree fitting on the other end. Build your hose to allow enough extra to assemble......DONE DEAL
install the small accumulator in the line as room permits


Just some thoughts......The system becomes stable for a wide variety of loads/weights
 

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Great things to know! In the Ag world we have hydraulic fittings with different sized orifices but I like your way of keeping it OEM… Does it matter if the hole is placed on the way top, side, or bottom? As the bottom should have no chance for air passage…?
You ask an excellent question!

While we were trying to determine what we needed for a cylinder, Scott brought up that issue and we discussed it. But after the process of drilling the piston went so smoothly, in our excitement to reassemble the cylinder we ah, er, ah… forgot to index the hole in the piston. When we removed the cylinder to add fluid, Scott asked where the hole was and I gave my best “I dunno” response (of course he didn’t know either). We considered disassembling the cylinder to verify the orientation of the hole (and move it, if necessary, but we decided to add the fluid and see if that worked before going through the process of taking the cylinder apart and putting it back together.

Apparently we got lucky, because the tilt action is smooth and controlled.
 
I have been watching this thread a bit.
Actually....IMHO A pressure rated hydraulic line between the two cylinder ports with an adjustable flow control in the line (Bidirectional) would be perfect.....

The needle valve type (Non check valve) would allow the flow to be adjusted to suit the particular load......Start with the valve almost closed and add the load........Adjust the control to get the trailer deck to drop at the desired speed......

These valves have a set screw that secures the adjustment......And there are some that require a screw driver and have a hex nut to lock the valve once it is set....

I prefer the ones with the knob.. as in the piccy

Only one thing to take into consideration......The rod end of the cylinder has less capacity than the non rod end.....

This can be compensated for by adding a small accumulater on the rod end to allow the extra oil a place to go....


This will allow both sides of the system to be air free......As the rod end fills up (Deck collapsing) the extra oil can enter the accumulator after the cylinder is full.....No air pockets and not unexpected sudden drops....Fill the non rod end full .....

This system will give you a broad range of cylinder choices (As long as the length is correct.....No special cylinder required.

Use Field serviceable (Non crimp fittings) Easy to assemble with a vise and hand tools..... Choose the size and style needed to fit the location.

Connect the Flow control solid the the rod end port and use a 90 degree fitting on the other end. Build your hose to allow enough extra to assemble......DONE DEAL
install the small accumulator in the line as room permits


Just some thoughts......The system becomes stable for a wide variety of loads/weights
You make some good points. (In my research I looked at needle valves on good ol' Amazon.com.)

Whereas most trailers have a universal quality about them for multiple different loads of varying weights, this trailer is built specifically for a DMC 1450. Rather than a flat deck, it has two what I'll call ramps covered with expanded metal decking and it's hollow between the ramps. The ramps also have a vertical flange on the inside edge of both ramps to keep the machine close to centered.

We will sell this trailer as a package with the snowcat, and our objective is to make it as user-friendly as possible. We don't know who the purchaser will be, or what experience they will have with snowcats, or with tilting trailers. But in our opinion, simpler is better for the inexperienced. We think having the orifice sized correctly for the application takes a variable out of the picture.

To expand on our rationale a bit: To some people a brake-steer snowcat is no big deal. But for I think the majority of people, it's not intuitive at all compared to an automotive vehicle with a steering wheel and a foot brake. With no damping or cushioning cylinder, and no experience driving a brake-steer snowcat, the first time they unload the machine will be scary. Not might be: will be.

That will also cause trepidation when they have to load it for the first time. That trailer deck angle is pretty steep and once they pass the tipping point, and the trailer deck slams down abruptly, will they have the situational awareness to pull back on both steering levers, or might they have another reaction and drive the machine forward right off the front of the trailer and into their tow vehicle, or even worse, into a bystander?

How would Scott and I feel if we'd sold the machine and that happened? We'd feel horrible. No, it wouldn't have been our "fault", but by making the effort to fully rectify a potentially dangerous situation we think we're acting responsibly. The Golden Rule applies.
 
I agree with the ideology on this 100%

Ber sure to do a run through to the buyer.....Get them in the cat in the passenger seat and go through a load and unload procedure...Then get them in the command chair.....

It will all be fine.....
 
I agree with the ideology on this 100%

Ber sure to do a run through to the buyer.....Get them in the cat in the passenger seat and go through a load and unload procedure...Then get them in the command chair.....

It will all be fine.....
THAT is a heck of a good idea. Thanks for suggesting that!
 
You betcha......
As old hands at loading trailers with stuff ....most of us take for granted the subtleties that go with the procedure.

A newbie can certainly find themselves in "BUTTPUCKERVILLE" REAL QUICK .....and as mentioned, end up in trouble.....

A good check ride should be plenty to assure they will be able to gitterdone

Might also advise to chock the rear wheels on the tow vehicle during loading....especially on any type of grade ......I have seen some rigs start to slide if the loading gets a tad wild.....
 
When I had my 1404 with the same type of tilt trailer that BFT is working on, my hydro cylinder didn’t lower the machine slowly, but rather allowed it to slam down. With the 1404’s manual transmission, your only option was to go for it when loading. I would lower the jack stand so that the slamming of the trailer didn’t bust a leaf spring on my truck!
 
I like Snowy River's idea and have a slight variation. I would go to Surplus Center and order the cheapest chinese hydraulic cylinder that will fit. Then get a hydraulic lever control valve and plumb it between the retraction side and the compression side of the cylinder. When loading I would pull the it over-center on the trailer bed (center of gravity forward of the bed pivot). Get out and lower it forward using the hydraulic valve. Get back in put it in it's final fore/aft position on the bed. Opposite for getting it off. Bleeding the air out of it will be a beach, but a little air in the system is not a disaster, it will just make the tilt system a little springy. That may not be all bad. Basically the same system as Snowy River and replace the adjustable orifice with a hand operated hydraulic valve.
 
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