Thiokol 1202 engine seized-repair or replace?

[timbo]

Hello all,
Long-time lurker here. I've learned lots through the collective wisdom here.

I think the engine finally went out on my cat, after limping along for several years. It got to the point where the family wouldn't ride in it with me, because we inevitably ended up walking. Looking to get this thing reliable again.

The question is whether to rebuild or replace the Ford 170 motor. Or upgrade to 200 or 300? I know there might be bell housing issues with the latter and the 4-speed tranny. OC-12 rear end BTW. Some have suggested a diesel swap, which would be cool, but that'd require an adapter and fabricating motor mounts--plus, I'm leery of fuel gel issues.

So, I'd appreciate everyone's thoughts & ideas. Right now it's dead on top of 2+ feet of snow, 2 miles from the highway, so I'm getting a guy with a dozer to drag it out. Ugh.

Thanks,
Tim

 

[300 H and H]

Welcome to the forum.

Sorry to hear this about your situation. Don't feel your alone. I think anyone who is in this hobby has had their day.

With the OC-12, I would be thinking the 300 would be the kicker. Were it me the C6 auto would be behind it, especially in the mountains.
Big fan of the later 4.9 TPI Ford 300. Computer is simple and has altitude compensation as well. They make more torque than any other factory Ford 300. But they take more room both in width and height to accommodate the intake manifold.

Just my 2 cents...

 

[timbo]

A "simple" computer? Sounds like an oxymoron, but that'd be great for easier starting. Maybe no more cans of starter fluid? Will a C6 bolt in without fabrication? Also, if I take the head off, can I get the engine out the top and through the door? Or out the front? Or do I have to take the cab off? That would suck.

Thanks for the input!

 

[300 H and H]

Is a 1202 a Sprite or a Super Imp?
Regular Imps don't have OC 12 rears.

 

[timbo]

Spryte. Mid 70's vintage.

 

[300 H and H]

WTS - Ford 300 CID Straight-6 industrial

Not sure if someone can use it in a Snowcat of some sort but posting it here just in case. It's located in W. PA. Engine model: C5PF-6005A Ford 300CID. Name plate says NAT GAS but currently running on gas. Pretty sure it's from 1971 or 1972. History: It's from an Onan 30EK genset. (30KW). It's...

www.forumsforums.com

The C6 should fit fine. By the early 80's they were factory installed in some.
You might want to check, but I am thinking that the entire cab of your machine maybe mounted on a hinge assembly.

 

[Cidertom]

Welcome to the forum.

Sorry to hear this about your situation. Don't feel your alone. I think anyone who is in this hobby has had their day.

With the OC-12, I would be thinking the 300 would be the kicker. Were it me the C6 auto would be behind it, especially in the mountains.
Big fan of the later 4.9 TPI Ford 300. Computer is simple and has altitude compensation as well. They make more torque than any other factory Ford 300. But they take more room both in width and height to accommodate the intake manifold.

Just my 2 cents...

What he said. yep if it were mine. the 300 is about as bullet proof as you can get. c6 and go play.

 

[timbo]

WTS - Ford 300 CID Straight-6 industrial

Not sure if someone can use it in a Snowcat of some sort but posting it here just in case. It's located in W. PA. Engine model: C5PF-6005A Ford 300CID. Name plate says NAT GAS but currently running on gas. Pretty sure it's from 1971 or 1972. History: It's from an Onan 30EK genset. (30KW). It's...

www.forumsforums.com

The C6 should fit fine. By the early 80's they were factory installed in some.
You might want to check, but I am thinking that the entire cab of your machine maybe mounted on a hinge assembly.

To my knowledge, it is NOT hinged. Sorry for the repetition of the question and thanks to those who replied so far.

What is the best way to remove the engine? Possible through a door with the head off? Out the front with radiator out of the way? Or does cab need to come off? Thanks.
Tim

 

[mtncrawler]

The Ford 170 inline six was the factory engine for the A-Model Sprytes. If you have the OC-12 rear and the Ford manual transmission you have a B-Model which came with the 200. Any change to a larger inline is going to require fabrication. I don't know why removing the cab would suck unless yours is some custom build.

 

[redsqwrl]

Yes, if the cat in your signature/advantar thing is your cat. you can separate the top half of the cab easy enough.

the motor will come out the door easy enough as well.

Back to the motor choice. Is your intake manifold cast as one piece with the motor?
is your shifter next to the seat or behind the motor?

a 170 in a B or C model would be somewhat unique. the 200 / 170 is a dynamite motor and revs happily.

the 240/300 is a much bigger engine and is known for its torque. ( much longer stroke)

My word of advice if you are not points and carb literate, is to check the gap of your points before sending a dozer up to get it. I have service quite a few pcs of equipment given up as dead only to find the state of tune so out of whack they just couldn't perform.
If the rods are not hanging out of the motor, ( and it can still spin) Those little fords will run......

 

[timbo]

Thanks redsqwrl--It had new points, distributor, carb cleaned, etc. Ran strong. However, we found aluminum shavings in the oil. So, my mechanic friend suggested I run it for a bit at altitude to see how it did and then we could inspect the oil. It did well...for about 20 minutes. Then it spontaneously lost all power. It would idle and run (barely) in 1st gear. Confirmed it was getting fuel. So I was trying to get back, crested the top of a hill and it quit. Would not re-start. Weird starter sound, like solenoid only? It's about 2 miles off road, 30 miles from my house. So, tough to diagnose long-distance.

 

[redsqwrl]

I apologize, I see the seized part of the subject line now..