SW48 w/Ford 300 will not turn over

[donald73d]

So I just got things together (rebuilt carb, etc) to try and start the SW48. I had turned it over a few times with plugs out to blow out the MMO I had squired down each spark plug hole. Now nothing.

I turn the key to on and lights come on along with engine fan, turn the key to start, the lights and fans go off, but it does not turn over. And it had been turning over a few days ago. Charged the battery, and cleaned the battery posts and clamps. Still nothing.

Measured the voltage with the key in START and its 12V.

Any fuses to check before I go measuring voltages at the key switch and starter solenoid?

I would really like to get it started, move it to my barn and work on boat.

 

[Snowtrac Nome]

first I think look how the battery is grounded, it must be grounded to the engine block. if it is grounded to the body or frame you must have a ground strap between the engine and the part the battery is grounded to. also have you put a wrench to the crank to see if the engine is in fact free. the way a ford starter system works is there is a high amperage solenoid that will pass current from the battery to the starter when the coil is energized the contact disc makes connection, the coil is energized by the switch through the small wire on the solenoid ,some times on automatics running through a neutral start switch hope that helps.

 

[jask]

Have someone else crank it and use th DMM to measure the voltage drop on the battery.

 

[Snowtrac Nome]

I posted the ground issue because I chased one just like that on a snow trac the other night where some one had grounded a battery to the body.

 

[jask]

I posted the ground issue because I chased one just like that on a snow trac the other night where some one had grounded a battery to the body.

Have I got a picture for you the battery in 193 is grounded the same way and the dash wiring is butchered so badly I am going to need to pull it all and redo it all.

The reason I suggested checking the battery under load ( cranking ) is because I usually like to see 12.3- 12.8V on a good battery- I have seen too many dead ones that will show a surface charge voltage of 12V that could not put out 5 Amps without the voltage crashing. If the voltage holds up under cranking I would do the same thing... check out the ground path or run a temporary ground wire from the block to the battery.. then the starter solenoid.

 

[Snowtrac Nome]

the description given about the thing cranking than nothing is just what happened on the snow trac also the same thing 99 percent of the time is the result of loose or dirty battery terminals arcing. I tend to assume every one has a heavy duty battery charger with a boost mode and a hydrometer and load tester there for I usually assume the battery has been checked.

 

[donald73d]

I did check the voltage with the key turned from ON to START and no change in voltage. The battery is a year or two old and was fully charged. The battery terminals and clamps where just cleaned.

Should the OIL light come on with engine not running but key in ON?

Should the gauge lighting go out when the key is turned to START?

 

[mla2ofus]

I did check the voltage with the key turned from ON to START and no change in voltage. The battery is a year or two old and was fully charged. The battery terminals and clamps where just cleaned.

Should the OIL light come on with engine not running but key in ON?

Should the gauge lighting go out when the key is turned to START?

Did you read post #2?
Mike

 

[jask]

Yes on the oil light, it is designed to show no or low pressure, and by illuminating with key on/engine off to show it is not burnt out or malfunctioning... No sure about that machine but I doubt the dash lights should go out.
Like Don pointed out, the most likely cause is a poor ground path from the engine back to the battery. If you can run a jumper cable from the block to battery negative and it starts easily you can be sure that is the problem.