• Please be sure to read the rules and adhere to them. Some banned members have complained that they are not spammers. But they spammed us. Some even tried to redirect our members to other forums. Duh. Be smart. Read the rules and adhere to them and we will all get along just fine. Cheers. :beer: Link to the rules: https://www.forumsforums.com/threads/forum-rules-info.2974/

SW48 - Help with operations and maintance

A

a1tipster

New member
Hi Team:

I just purchased a couple of SW 48's. Looking for some expertise on how to correctly operate and maintain these machines.

Units are:

1979 SW48 F - 6 cyl gas with the automatic tranny, 4 way plow

1981 SW48 H - 4 cyl diesel with hydrostatic forward and reverse, 6 way plow

Both units are fully operational (BTW: the gas burner is faster in a race) Both units need some new tires. I'm planning on doing a full fluid change on them.

Looking for advice on:

Correct adjustment of brake bands
How to remove and re-tension the track
Should i stick with the solid tires?
Do these blades have a float setting?
The 1891 has a big hydraulic pump on the back. Does anyone know the specs for pressure / volume on this?
Tips on how to drive these things safely.
Any other recommended items i need to know about.

Thanks!

Mike

ps. I've attached two photos because I know you love them.
 

Attachments

  • 1979 SW48.jpg
    1979 SW48.jpg
    61.8 KB · Views: 1,351
  • 1891 SW48 Diesel.jpg
    1891 SW48 Diesel.jpg
    50 KB · Views: 1,156
Welcome to this forum !

Good looking machines. I didn't realize they used tracks like that on them.

Sorry I can't answer your questions but I'm only familiar with older machines.
 
Welcome to the forum!! My first snowcat was a sw48 with 6cyl ford /auto trans!! Great machine!! Scary, the places it used to go in the mountains here. You should have no problems using it on the level.
Best to get a service manual, as you have two machines, for all your answers, Try Minnesota Outdoors on a manual!! Nice both units having modern tracks!!!!! Good luck!!
 
Correct adjustment of brake bands
How to remove and re-tension the track
Should i stick with the solid tires?
Do these blades have a float setting?
The 1891 has a big hydraulic pump on the back. Does anyone know the specs for pressure / volume on this?
Tips on how to drive these things safely.
OK, I have a 1988 with the 6 cyl Ford, but have only had it a year. Track should have 3-6" of movement at top center when a strong man pulls on it. You can change tension by releasing or pushing in grease into the tensioner - accessed between the wheels. It takes a half tube of grease to take out a couple inches of slack. Supposedly the blades have a float position - achieved by putting blade down, then pushing handle even farther to release pressure. Does not seem to work for me about half the time and my drive pays the price. No reason why solid tires are not superior as far as I can tell. Mine had a hydraulic pump on the back to - used to turn a salt spreader. I do not think it had as much power as you would think given its size. Maybe yours is different. I need to adjust my brake bands as well - probably reline, but have not gotten the courage yet and it will now wait until snow season is over - where did the summer go?

I am in Syracuse NY. I have parts and operations manuals but not repair/maintenance. Where are you?
 
I am bout 45 minutes West of Syracuse. The tracks are tensioned with a grease fitting which is ahead of the rear tire. You will see the tension pull the tire(s) away from the front as you pump some grease into the tensioner. If you have too much slack, I suppose that you could unbolt the track and reposition the track into new tighter holes. Not sure what movement you get when grease is pushed through the tensioner. Solid tires work pretty good, but over time, they will split in the center, and slowly pull apart. I was lucky enough to have purchased a carriage with all 6 wheels & sprockets on it, but now as I have removed a track and pulled one good wheel off, I see that the 2 other wheels have slight cracks in them, so just a matter of time. STill 3 other wheels on the other side. We'll see what they look like one I pull the other track off. Anyway, the undercarriage came with the differential, and steer bands, supposedly new. I also have the pump on the back of the engine. My machine is '88 vintage. Runs pretty good, but I suspect a bad lifter or valve since it has developed a tapping sound when warmed up. Donno what the brake pad adjustment is supposed to be. I should tighten mine a bit. Peddle goes a long ways before any serious braking is done. Hope I helped a wee bit!!!! Any luck in getting a manual?
 
Meanjean - I am actually in Skaneateles - where are you? Sorry, but I have no spare parts. I went to fire it up for the upcoming plow season and it is dead - I suspect the solenoid or some rusty ground.
 
Forgot to mention-take a look at a BR110. That's what I am shooting for!!! Pretty cool, eh? Looks like the front drive sprocket was not moved out. I am looking to increase the "float" on deep snow. Have a look! Thanks for getting back to me.


<a href="http://www.freeimagehosting.net/6735b"><img src="http://www.freeimagehosting.net/newuploads/6735b.jpg"></a>
 
Last edited:
I only have one SW48. I know the tracks you want, but have no idea where you might find any locally. Parts for these things are outrageously priced too. I'll tuck your info away - never know what I might find. Mine was owned by the local Community College. Used a lot but maintained. I want mine only for my long rural driveway. Worked great last year, but never got to the summer maintenance - now it is not starting.
 
Hey! I was lucky to have found a complete undercarriage locally, but I know what you mean with parts. Engine wise, pretty straightforward, but anything Bombardier, and you are treated like a municipality: money's no object!!! I called Pinroth this morning for some track belting for my track project; 5" wide belting, and 4 are needed to do an entire machine: $404 each!!! I am just going to call a conveyor belt distributor and get it for much less... What's up with your starter? Have you checked the basics: clean battery poles, ground cable corroded, bad starter solenoid, tapped on the starter with hammer handle, etc.
 
Meanjean - Starting problem was bad ground and solenoid, then gas was not flowing to carb because check valve was stuck. Fixed that to find the alternator had siezed - burned a belt up. Have the new alternator, but need the belt yet. I'll get there before plow season.

Tractor Supply Store has the belting - used for all kinds of drive belts. Sold by the foot.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top