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Sunk my JS 72, now what?

Y

YukonDean

New member
I sunk my Bombardier JS 72 in a kuskeg bog. The water was right up to the sear level inside the cab.
I am a new owner and have no expirence with these machines but have access to good mechanics and shop.
It ran ok once we got an excavator in to pull it out, th n bogged down with debris clogging the fuel system. It has a 1972 S10 GMC 6 cylinder motor. The fuel system is good now but there are many issues with it freezing. It is -10 here in the Klondike today.
The transmission is frozen solid, so I believe the is water in it through the vent tube in the cab.
The very least I need is a maintenance manual. Does anyone have one that I can receive electronically?
We have managed to get it into a heated building, but what is next.
All help or comments greatly appreciated
 

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Send me a private message with a email I will send you a manual. Just grease the track components and as long the differential is sealed well and and no water is in the oil you should be good. I go to the boards every time I go out:yum: In the pick I cut some black spruce as a base and drove out even though it weas pushing water into the cab:w00t2:
 

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OOPS. I didn't read completely. Your differential is frozen and will need to be heated and drained. Diesel flush and oil replaced. I use CAterpillar oil for bulldozers, it is expensive but my machine turns better. Dont drive until its completely thawed because the pinion will break the teeth off. I'm sure Bogie has sold a lot of differentials because of this.
 
Thanks, we have several cats here D8, D9, D10, and the 50 gallon an hour burner D11
I will get the mechanics to drain it and use the cat oil. Is it regular oil, do you know the weight, like 15W-30 or is it hydraulic oil
Thanks
 
TO4 Caterpillar wet brake differential oil will be the best. Several folks on this forum use it for its superior wet brake steering properties.
 
Deans JS 72 data plate. IS the machine 72 inches wide and the year a 1971?
 

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It is 72 inches wide, I don't know the year.
I am not that far from you.
I am at a gold mine in the Klondike, about 60 miles south of Dawson City, Yukon. My neighbor is Parker Schnobel of Gold Rush, he is finished for the year today.
 
I think the last two digits on the chassis is the year number. Bogie would know more about that. Not far away at all. Let me know if you ever want to get rid of your machine we could be meet half way.
 
Yukon, the fluid that akimp is referring to is for the front differential which contains the brake bands for steering. I would change that fluid as well but it sounds like your transmission is what is/was frozen with water and that will take "regular gear oil" with a lighter weight for real cold temps if you prefer. I use to use a 75w synthetic gear oil in a Bombi I use to own but your mechanics should have what you need.
 
Yes I was referring to the Differential because he mentioned vent tube. The transmission doesn't have a vent that I ever seen and would be difficult for water to get in their unless it went through the seals were the shifters are or into the output shaft. Pain in the A@@ to change the oil on the transmission. You have to pull the cover and the shifter forks are bolted to it. Once you get that off a pump will be needed to suck out oil. No drain that I could see and I believe the manual says to suck out.
 
Now that I hear you, I think both where frozen.
The unit would not go into gear, the shifter would not move.
I tryed to start it but it sounded like the very slow turn over cause by a weak battery, so I charged the battery, still the same.
Out of desperation, I tried starting with the foot clutch in and it fired right up. As soon as I tried to let the clutch out, it stalled.
So I put some heat on the gear shifter and rods, not much, just a 110 volt space heater with a metal prospecting pan over it to keep in the heat. A few hours latter, I was able to shift it, but now it would not turn. The levers moved full travel but to no affect,
I got it inside and I will check it later but I believe that both the transmission and stealing clutch thing where both frozen.
 
YukonDean said:
It is 72 inches wide, I don't know the year.
I am not that far from you.
I am at a gold mine in the Klondike, about 60 miles south of Dawson City, Yukon. My neighbor is Parker Schnobel of Gold Rush, he is finished for the year today.
Click to expand...

I have family that mines across the border near Chicken. I love it up there.
 
Sinking those machines is not a big deal as long as you get the water out of the diff and transmission then flush with deisel. The problem is freezing them hard the. Dumping the clutch. Hard to say what's messed up now. My buddy did that to his J5 and the diff froze in my driveway. I went to move it and it started fine. But then I let the clutch out SLOWLY and the engine loaded up right at the clutch engaging point. Tried it again with no change. Shut it down and scratched my head until the frozen diff idea came to me. Tarped the machine, heated it up. Drove it into my shop. Drained, flushed, new oil, and no harm done. Where r u at now with it?
 
it is inside now and arm for a few days.
I understand there is a drain plug for the transmission but I have not gone looking for it yet.
I am unsure how to tackle the transmission as I understand there is no drain and it has to be sucked out.
Has anyone done this before and could give me a few pointers?

Thanks
Dean, in the Klondike
 
I tried to type fast before dinner. Here is camp, diner is 7:30 sharp.
I understand the differential has a drain plug, I have not gone looking for it yet, the transmission is the one I am puzzled about
 
The drain for the differential is on the bottom of tub, right hand front side, kinda under the drive sprocket. Angle the J5 so that's the low point so as much of the water drains as possible sooner the better everything rusts sitting in water. The transmission is no big deal. But you need a suction pump. The machanics at your work have them just ask. Or Napa has hand suction pumps for $30. You just remove the 6 bolts out of the transmission cap. Just take note how your shifting forks are positioned. It's not complicated, then you take you suction pump with a hose and snake it down to the bottom the the transmission case and start pumping the gear lube / water out. Again...sooner the better. Flush with diesel.
 
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