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steering brake slave cylinders kits
- Thread starter bctimber
- Start date
If you have a caliper or inside micrometer and get an accurate bore size you should be able to get them at a parts house like NAPA. Find someone who can still look in the books and not the computer to find the right bore size. You will most likely find it is from a vehicle of the same vintage like late 60's.
I suggest you contact fellow forum member Snowcat Pat. He builds his units out of stainless steel!
you could just go to the local hydraulic supplier and pick them up, then the best thing you could is get rid of the Brake fluid and go to ATF fluid and forget about the rust then. we have been running ATF in steering cylinders
and have had no issues. and no rust either or bubbled paint etc. etc. if operating in extreme cold -30 and below use the blue hydraulic fluid used in cold climates for plow trucks.
What type of ATF fluid do you use Boggie?
Type F works the best, but Dextron/Mercron 3 will work fine brake fluid attracks moisture rust is the killer on master and slaves the seals today handle the oil just fine.
almost time for the land of OZ!
Snowcat Pat
Active member
Boggie, Will the ATF adversly affect the rubber seals/cups in the master cyls? I understood that Mineral oil in the manual brake system is considered a big no-no, but your the expert. I've been using DOT-5 silicone brake fluid to be on the safe side, but its expensive.
bctimber, we have both hydraulic and brake fluid OEM kits in stock if you have trouble getting what you want locally. Bore size is 2.2500 inch.
-Pat
bctimber, we have both hydraulic and brake fluid OEM kits in stock if you have trouble getting what you want locally. Bore size is 2.2500 inch.
-Pat
Well, I don't claim to be no expert.... we just know it works for us. as we have been rebuilding machines for over 25 years and Todays seals will handle it. 25 years ago no, they would not, but if you are going to redo your system
the current technology allows it.we strive to improve things as do you, so why should anyone have to worry about rust.
Just a note on that if it is not to late it is best if you are going to do a switch of fluids that you do it with new seals and clean lines some of the old seals after having brake fluid in them and going to ATF will want to swell
Could you post part numbers? I have a Kaman Bearing locally. Thanks.
hi i go back to camp neex week will get the # for you.did't work out as pland but i made due. i ended up using just stright hydraulic fluid . been good all season a little stiff at -30 but after some pulls its fine
glad to here the oil worked out for you when you go back pull the cap and see if you have any formed any surface rust inside the cap
Ok sorry about the wait. for the thin ring on the puck its hard to read TS 226 or T8 226 had to buy a bag of 15. now the wide ring the ones i got did not work for me (580-328) the OD and width was good but the ID was to tall a machinist could turn down the depth of the ring land it would be perfect . but what i did was used the TS 226 and put a round o ring beside it to take up the side clearance of the wider ring land 3 months no leaks . let me now how you make out .Shane