starter problems

[MNoutdoors RIP]

thought I would post this to help others in the future. we just got in a machine a Bombardier Bombi and 50% or more of the time when you would go to start it it would just click. OK normal thinking would be low battery or bad starter selonoid. as it turns out someone had redone the wiring to the start switch and used to small of wire so when you would go to start there was enough of a voltage drop that if the tooth on the starter drive was right infront of the tooth on the ring gear that it would not have enough power to push in the spring on the drive and let it push its way by the tooth and make contact to spin the starter. they had used a 18 ga. wire so what we did was increase the wire to a #10 and the problem has been solved this is not the first time we have run into this.

 

[Snowtrac Nome]

havn't seen that one what i seemore of is the use of a solid wire or romex and the use of wire nuts which in the vibration of a vehicle they will break or come loose

 

[northeastheavy]

When I had that bombi I never would have thought one wire was the problem. I also would have never found the problem!!!!! I had charged the battery in the unit, out of the unit and had the local shop check to see if it was good !! Checked contacts. Glad it was something simple (for you)!!! I was starting to think it was the generator causing the problem!! That unit came from Nat Grid. in Massachusetts. I think units that are out in the field for repairs get whatever wire they have at the time. This is a good one to remember!! Never realized how important wire size is. Thanks!!!!!!

 

[JimVT]

Thanks for the tip. I'll check my wires. But it only has done what you said twice in the last year. It looks to be original but you never know.
Jim

 

[MNoutdoors RIP]

Thanks for the tip. I'll check my wires. But it only has done what you said twice in the last year. It looks to be original but you never know.
Jim

Jim, we have found that the wire from the factory was borderline and that over time and going through the plug under the dash there is just enough to cause that. switching to a one piece run not through the plug and sizing to #10 makes it much better.

 

[benz9]

Brad,
Was this also the case on SW-48 / J-5s? I'm currently having to constantly boost mine to get it started. I suspect a bad battery since it starts fine with a boost and with a new voltmeter, it shows 13.5 VDC once the engine is running (so it's charging, confirmed with a VOM). All wiring from the starter to the battery is 6 AWG and the "starter" signal wire is 12 AWG. On a side note, is there a starter replacement for the Chrysler 251 flathead? Mine works fine, just wondering?

 

[MNoutdoors RIP]

Brad,
Was this also the case on SW-48 / J-5s? I'm currently having to constantly boost mine to get it started. I suspect a bad battery since it starts fine with a boost and with a new voltmeter, it shows 13.5 VDC once the engine is running (so it's charging, confirmed with a VOM). All wiring from the starter to the battery is 6 AWG and the "starter" signal wire is 12 AWG. On a side note, is there a starter replacement for the Chrysler 251 flathead? Mine works fine, just wondering?

seems like the Sw/J5 were wired a little stronger, and have seen this in them.
only only the Bombis

The starters are available new same as the Canadian Power wagons

 

[aulen2002]

^ I used a NOS starter from a 230 and mixed and matched parts, installing a bushingin in the bendix drive to fit the smaller shaft. We'll see how long it lasts with my limited use.

 

[Snowtrac Nome]

i will add some snow trac starter info the early model snow tracs had a 6v starter and 180mm fly wheel when installing a larger engine the clutch can slip so a 200mm clutch is needed those only came in 200 mm flywheels and 12 volt starters 2ways to fix this one is to have the starter ring ground off and install a 6v ring gear that will match the bell housing and starter the other is to open up the bell housing some to acept the 12 volt starter ring and install a 12 volt starter and bushing. caution never put a 180 mm fly wheel on a 1600 cc motor it fits but won't work right the clutch will slip while pulling hard and the step on the fly wheel isn't right and the fly wehhl can come loose alst the crank seals differently and you can have an oil leak at the rear of theengine looking like a rear main. snow tracs are grounded to the body i ran my ground cable all the way back to the engine bell housing and to dte the new 6 volt starter i ave has worked fine but there guys out there building hybryd starters to replace the 6 volt starter with a 12 volt model. hope this info helps

 

[nlbombi]

anypne know where to order a starter for a bombi with the ford 1600 engine or what it is ir who makes it it is nor a ford product apparently thanks

 

[Bradwiller]

I have a J5 with the same symptoms. I installed a new Optima Battery which is far better than any ordinary battery. I also cleaned the Battery Cable Clamps. Now she turns over like mad!! Optima Battery cost me $190, but I need her to start every time.

 

[cranman]

I never had the problem with 251's in Buggies, J5's or bombardiers but sure did with my little Suzuki Samurai plow truck. On the zuke site I learned one user set up a relay similar to the ones you use to run extra lights so that the power going to the solenoid was clean and #12 wire, and I haven't had a problem in years.

 

[Tahoeskier]

This is great news for me. I have been having that exact problem with my bombi. The previous owner replaced the selonoid and had the starter rebuilt. He also replaced the wire to the selonoid but used too small of a wire. So it still just clicks some of the time. I sure hope that putting in a new larger wire finally gets this fixed.

 

[brbergmann]

Any chance at a manufacturer or a part number for the starter for a flat head?