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Snow trac Variator oil level check and add

hendog

New member
Hello all, I was hoping to find these answers in Lyndons post, but no luck. I am sure its there somewhere. But anyway, a few question that I cant find answers to ..

1) how do I check the variator oil level in each tower, is this oil connected to the tranny volume or are they separated by a seal, hard to tell on part breakout.


1B) are the variator towers filled completely with oil or only to the normal tranny level?

2) How do you add oil to the varator, ( is the only way the zirk fitting) or am I missing something? It looks like there was a hand pump for adding it through the zirk or is this grease only.

3) I do have a slight seap in the sprocket seals and I was hoping to change them next spring... Guess from Lyndon notes that your best in pulling the variator, anyone do this with the varator in place? Suggestions? The trap door just does not expose the area enough. I appreciate your wisdom!!!

Thanks for all your help in advance!

Hendog
 
Hello all, I was hoping to find these answers in Lyndons post, but no luck. I am sure its there somewhere. But anyway, a few question that I cant find answers to ..

1) how do I check the variator oil level in each tower, is this oil connected to the tranny volume or are they separated by a seal, hard to tell on part breakout.
The gear oil in the transmission also lubercates the lower bearings and bevel gears in the variator. It is all one oil supply so there is no oil check on the variator towers.

Be sure to use a synthetic GL-4 gear lube so you don't corrode the brass syncro rings.

1B) are the variator towers filled completely with oil or only to the normal tranny level?
They are only filled to the same level as the transmission.

2) How do you add oil to the varator, ( is the only way the zirk fitting) or am I missing something? It looks like there was a hand pump for adding it through the zirk or is this grease only.
You add oil to the variator through the transmission oil fill hole. Bring up the oil level until it just runs back out of the hole. The zerk fittings are for lubercating the upper variator bearings and sheeve spline slip-joints.

There will be one of the zerk fittings on the end of a hose that goes to the steering-gear box. Don't put grease into this zerk. It is for gear oil only. I painted it yellow on my machine to help remind me not to put grease in it.

3) I do have a slight seap in the sprocket seals and I was hoping to change them next spring... Guess from Lyndon notes that your best in pulling the variator, anyone do this with the varator in place? Suggestions? The trap door just does not expose the area enough. I appreciate your wisdom!!!

I think that will have to pull the variator to be able to get the sprockets and shafts out to repair those seals. That would be a good over the summer job. :biggrin:

Thanks for all your help in advance!

Hendog
 
Thanks so much for your help. Silly question is that gl-4 oil you stated the cert grade or the weight. What weight should I use since I do hit below 0 often.

another one,, what kind of oil gun do you use that uses the zirk for the steering box. Only thought that zerks were for greese.

Hop all is well thanks

ps- how are your rigs running?
:smile:
 
Thanks so much for your help. Silly question is that gl-4 oil you stated the cert grade or the weight. What weight should I use since I do hit below 0 often.

another one,, what kind of oil gun do you use that uses the zirk for the steering box. Only thought that zerks were for greese.

Hop all is well thanks

ps- how are your rigs running?
:smile:
GL-4 is the spec for syncromesh transmissions. Some GL-5 is also rated to cover the GL-4 spec so double check. I use 75W-90 Amsoil synthetic in my rigs.

I got an additional cheap grease gun and put gear oil in it to top off the steering gear zerk. It is a little messey for sure, but it works.
 
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