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Skidozer 252 Rear end circ pump

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Dwmaster

New member
Thought I was going to drive my new to me full cab today, nope. I Just needed to grease it and refill the rear end. Unhooked the return line to Check the flow, no flow. Appears main shaft seal leaks, I imagine preventing suction. It's a Webster pump stamped 29YBO12-2LA➡️D806. Where do I get a rebuild kit or a new pump? I blew the air out of the lines and with what came out, its evident the pump wasn't pumping.
 
MNoutdoors
Member formerly known as 'boggie'

Here is the man you need to talk to, and a member here as well.

Send him a private message and he will get back with you asap..

Regards, Kirk
 
Thanks, will do. I see a pump on eBay that looks identical except all the numbers don't match. But that part off the stamping could be dates or????
 
Pretty sure I jumped the gun ordering a new pump, upon close inspection of the pump it appears to be in very good condition. I would say it simply wasn't up to the task of circulating what appears to be 80/90 that had mistakenly been put in the rear end. I speculate it simply couldn't circulate the thick oil.

The only other unknown is the 2 inline valves. Can anyone help me with their purpose. I'm thinking check valve, pressure valve, temperature valve????? I really need to get a owner/parts manual.
 
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I got the new pump on, fluid changed and took it for a drive. Took on a little water during the trip. Lol, kinda back to square one. Plus I was over heating for some reason, mostly when idling.
 

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My Father would say, That'il learn ya durn ya" but I won't say that!
It just happens to us all now and then! Clean it out super good and do it again!
 
Some oils, particularly marine type are very good at settling the oil out after you do something like that. You can get them into a warm place and drain the water out.
 
All in fun. I brought it directly back to the heated shop. I was surprised, I pulled the plug about 24 hours after I put it inside, it had not separated at all. It is Cat power shift oil, it's like the oil absorbed the water and made ice cream. I would imagine left alone long enough it would. Now to try's and get the system clean again. Probly use some diesel and try and get my hands on some used atf to flush it through the lines and cooler.
The overheating has me miffed. I will check cap, thermostat and timing. Exterior of the radiator is clean. I'm going to convert to EFI, so,that will help possibly. It was about 30 degrees, chosen gear didn't seem to affect, like I said it was once i stopped is when it would heat up, but it would run 220 while driving got to 230 when stopped according to the gage which I'll check with a gun. I believe it because while it didn't fully boil over it was dribbling coolant out the overflow over the coarse of the trip.
 
Overheating at idle can be an airflow issue. If the hot air is circling back to the front of the radiator it will get hotter and hotter. If it cools down facing into the wind or if you block the air from circling, that is the issue.
 
Dwmaster said:
... it's like the oil absorbed the water and made ice cream. I would imagine left alone long enough it would...
Click to expand...

that oil is EMULSIFIED,.... and the water will never settle out.

An emulsion is a mixture of two or more liquids that are normally immiscible (unmixable or unblendable).

find the water entry point and correct it,, drain , flush, and refill
 
I got it flushed out. 2 rounds of diesel fuel then new oil. It looks good but I will change it after a couple runs when its still warm I will drop it.

Squawker, the operator needs to prevent the rear end from falling through the ice and being under 2' of water. Start there.

All good, discovered a broken water pump/alt belt. Apparently a tattered belt had missed my preflight. Might have been slipping.
 
Looks like all you had was a good scare, and some wounded pride. We've all been there. Glad you're safe, and the cat's ok.

JP
 
I'm don't wanna come across as a snake oil salesman, but I had over heating issues too. I tried everything I could think of including multiple thermostats, fan shrouds, clutch fans etc.... In the end I was amazed with the coolant additive "water wetter". http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=74
Make sure your glycol/water ratio is not heavy either way. I recommend 50/50. Look at water wetter on YouTube. They do a great job explaining how and why it works. It's cheap too!
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=pApWgZdozQA

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
 
Dwmaster said:
All good, discovered a broken water pump/alt belt. Apparently a tattered belt had missed my preflight. Might have been slipping.
Click to expand...

Do you have 2 water pump belts? Mine does. It was a PIA getting two belts that were close enough in size to tighten evenly. Even then, they fit better one way what than when swapped.
 
Just one belt belt. I'll check that stuff out. Everything checks out pretty good with a heat gun. Part of reason I felt it was overheating is the gauge shows its 220 most of the time which the head may be but the the rest of the block is as it should be. Radiator is as it should be. Will take heat gun with me next extended run. Someone put a electric fuel pump right inside beside your knee, it vapor locks when idiling. But that's all going away, replaced with EFI.
 
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