Removing center wheel on SW48 to remove tracks.

[Idaho Living]

How are you SW48 folks removing the center wheel per the manual’s instructions to prepare to remove the tracks? I have sheared off a bolt behind the center wheel that the shock spring gizmo attaches to and I’m never going to get at it with the wheel on.

 

[jflarin]

Normally I'd jack the machine to remove the weight on the wheels and track, unscrew the cap at the center of the wheel (the grease cap), remove the cutter pin (with a cutter...), unscrew the coronation nut, remove the washer, remove the bearing and then ask help to hold the track up while I remove the wheel.

I did that in the past, but now to remove the track I loosen the track tensionner screw, loosen the rear spindle (4 nuts) and then use a lever to push the back wheel forward. Then I open the track and use the engine and some help to roll it out of the way.

jf

 

[Idaho Living]

Normally I'd jack the machine to remove the weight on the wheels and track, unscrew the cap at the center of the wheel (the grease cap), remove the cutter pin (with a cutter...), unscrew the coronation nut, remove the washer, remove the bearing and then ask help to hold the track up while I remove the wheel.

I did that in the past, but now to remove the track I loosen the track tensionner screw, loosen the rear spindle (4 nuts) and then use a lever to push the back wheel forward. Then I open the track and use the engine and some help to roll it out of the way.

jf

Thanks, I will try that. I removed the front wheel recently and I took off the wheel guides to do it. Trouble is that is a lot of work. The bolt that attaches the linkage from the spring can to the square bar that the rear and middle wheel attaches to has broken. So the middle tire has to come off. My machine has the grease cylinder so I pulled the zerk fitting out and drove the rear wheel forward as you described.

 

[jflarin]

Hi,
I have a J5 from 1960-ish, so it may be a little different. But yes removing the spring can is really difficult for me every time. The can are open in the bottom to allow drainage, so sometime I use that to remove some of the tension on the suspension. I play with multiple jacks and straps to position the front wheel to remove as much tension as possible. And then I ask for some help from family to pry it off or on.
Regarding removing tracks, you might want to watch those videos:

That is where I got the trick to use the engine to put it on and off the wheels.
jf

 

[Idaho Living]

Hi,
I have a J5 from 1960-ish, so it may be a little different. But yes removing the spring can is really difficult for me every time. The can are open in the bottom to allow drainage, so sometime I use that to remove some of the tension on the suspension. I play with multiple jacks and straps to position the front wheel to remove as much tension as possible. And then I ask for some help from family to pry it off or on.
Regarding removing tracks, you might want to watch those videos:

That is where I got the trick to use the engine to put it on and off the wheels.
jf

Thanks for the link to these videos, I appreciate the guy making them and addressing the subject of alternative tires. Ron, the guy who made the video like you has an adjustable screw for track tension. It wasn’t much trouble to release the grease pressure from my system, like I mentioned I just removed the zerk and drove the spindle forward. I too used Ron‘s trick of using the starter to move the track. Thank you for sharing your advice, it frustrating when the manual says to remove the center wheel and provides no direction at all on how that is done with the track still together. I am aware of a tool called a track jack, I will have to improvise one as they are expensive. I recently removed a front tire that was disintegrating without splitting the track. I used an alternative tire replacement like Ron in this video, but I used new Yokohama doughnut spare tires with high pressures inner tubes. In the spring I will replace all my tires returning to air inflated tubes from the foam I have now. I’m unimpressed with the foam, as it’s two hours at least to wrestle the foam off a rim. My plow is a 1967 JW which I think is a J variant.
Mike

 

[Idaho Living]

S

Hi,
I have a J5 from 1960-ish, so it may be a little different. But yes removing the spring can is really difficult for me every time. The can are open in the bottom to allow drainage, so sometime I use that to remove some of the tension on the suspension. I play with multiple jacks and straps to position the front wheel to remove as much tension as possible. And then I ask for some help from family to pry it off or on.
Regarding removing tracks, you might want to watch those videos:

That is where I got the trick to use the engine to put it on and off the wheels.
jf

So I did get the middle wheel off today after I slid the rear wheel forward for some slack in the track. I had to remove the outer wheel bearing for some wiggle room. I used a combination of a farm jack and a floor jack. Now I have to figure out how to reconnect the spring can to the rear square tube the two rear wheels are mounted to. I will probably use a come along to pull the linkage toward the rear. That will be easier than putting the wheel back on.

 

[jflarin]

I always have problem with those spring can. Here is what I am doing now (last and next weekend):

What I am trying this time is to put the spring in severe tension, then jamming it in place with 3 vise-grips. I did put it in tension by removing the jack in the front left (behind the wheel you see here) and moving my jack to the back right (the little blue spot you see in the picture) and jacking the J5. That puts a lot of weight on the front left tire and extends the spring can. I then locked it in place with the 3 wise grips. I am now cleaning the rear «balancier» bearings and will mount it back on, then I'll do the front wheel and suspension bearings.

I cannot tell you yet that it works great because it is the first time I do it this way.

jf

 

[J5 Bombardier]

It was mentioned in a previous thread , remove the can, stretch it out and put a wire cable clip on. after everything is assembled , remove the clip.
j5 Bombardier

 

[gabbott3]

Thanks for the link to these videos, I appreciate the guy making them and addressing the subject of alternative tires. Ron, the guy who made the video like you has an adjustable screw for track tension. It wasn’t much trouble to release the grease pressure from my system, like I mentioned I just removed the zerk and drove the spindle forward. I too used Ron‘s trick of using the starter to move the track. Thank you for sharing your advice, it frustrating when the manual says to remove the center wheel and provides no direction at all on how that is done with the track still together. I am aware of a tool called a track jack, I will have to improvise one as they are expensive. I recently removed a front tire that was disintegrating without splitting the track. I used an alternative tire replacement like Ron in this video, but I used new Yokohama doughnut spare tires with high pressures inner tubes. In the spring I will replace all my tires returning to air inflated tubes from the foam I have now. I’m unimpressed with the foam, as it’s two hours at least to wrestle the foam off a rim. My plow is a 1967 JW which I think is a J variant.
Mike

Did you buy the high pressure inner tubes with the tires ????

 

[Idaho Living]

Did you buy the high pressure inner tubes with the tires ????

I did buy high pressure tubes from Alpine Guide, I'm running the tires at the recommended 60psi and they are working fine.