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No Clutch - Stuck in gear

C

Cltjones

Member
Clutch was not working properly. Hard to get into gear when first starting. Once warmed up it was pretty good until today. Started in 1st with clutch in and it started but moved with clutch fully engaged and stalled now stuck in 1st will not go into neutral. I am not familiar with Clutch setup
 
If it won’t start pull around with something , and have someone in the machine depressing the clutch and try to create resistance
by steering. It most likely has rusted to the pressure plate, most come loose this way but not all.
 
Ditto for the above except put it in the highest gear. When it will be parked for months make up up a stick to hold the clutch in the disengaged position and this won't happen again. If it has steering clutches while holding clutch disengaged disengage both steering clutches and when it gets moving quickly re engage both steering clutches.
 
Couple questions. When you step on the clutch pedal does it feel like there is resistance like it's actually moving the pressure plate or is it moving easily which would indicate broken linkage or hydraulics?

It might be stuck in first because of the loading of the gears. Similar to putting your car in park on a hill and have some resistance when shifting it. Do you have a winch? Can you winch it forward enough to unload the drive train? You can also try setting the parking/foot brake, push in the clutch and bump the starter. It might bust loose IF it is indeed a clutch disc stuck to the flywheel or pressure plate.
 
When I step on the Peddle it does not feel like any resistance. Last year it did the same thing but would start working after a few tries.. Yes I have a winch and can probably pull it forward a bit.
 
Mine is an auto trans so I'm not sure, but do those have a hyd activated clutch? Out of fluid, air in the system?
 
Master cylinder was empty. Bled the system and got it out of gear. It still is not right and only the bottom 2 inches before the floor is where the clutch starts to work. Not sure how to adjust the Clutch.
 
You probably don't have all the air bled out. If a HF store is nearby their hand actuated vacuum brake bleeder works very well.
 
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Second on the vacuum bleed. Run a bunch of fluid through to get all the air out and report back.

Next question answer is where did the fluid go? Might be on your interior fire wall like mine.
 
You have to bleed at the slave not just the master. And yes like TA mentioned where did it go.
 
Finally got around to checking it again and the Master Cylinder is empty again. Checked the brake line it is good. After the master cylinder where it attaches to the linkage there is a cylinder where you bleed the line it is leaking out of the boot. Is it hard to change or rebuild?
 
It's easiest to just buy a new one. Those type cylinders have a knack for getting rust pits in the bore so a kit still won't fix them. Learned that long ago on drum brake wheel cylinders. Still have the little hone for them that comes in handy for other things.
 
Don't know about yours as I've never worked on one, just familiar with clutch slave cylinders like yours. Some pics might help.
 
All those parts should be off the shelf. Numbers will be on them somewhere .

Just did master, slave, brake, caliper, pads all stocked items depending .

We can help with some pics and part numbers
 
I've used JB weld to fix the pits in cylinders before, the original, not the quick stuff. Not perfect but it gets you through till you can find a new one sometimes.
 
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