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New to forum... DMC 1450 Super Imp questions

KorryKraft

New member
I'm thinking of acquiring a dmc 1450. I know that it needs a lot of work. But I was wondering if anyone could tell me what year and if it would be worth my time to try and find all the parts to get it going again?
 
I'm thinking of acquiring a dmc 1450. I know that it needs a lot of work. But I was wondering if anyone could tell me what year and if it would be worth my time to try and find all the parts to get it going again?
Can you post more details? Photos?
Lots of experts here, but additional info is needed.

Not model specific to the “Super Imp” you are looking at, but here is a nice history of DMC

 
Sorry, I'm 55 and not tech savvy. Tried to load pictures, but having troubles.
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Sorry, I'm 55 and not tech savvy. Tried to load pictures, but having troubles. View attachment 172355View attachment 172356View attachment 172358
Based on the data plate I believe that is a 1980 model. I think the wide track versions used belts that are 9 1/2" wide, so it looks like that is a 1980 Wide track 1450. The factory blade would increase the value.

Without being disrespectful, to decide if it's economically viable to get it in operating condition, one would need to know what the acquisition cost is. If (big IF) you can get it cheap enough, it may be worth it. But if you value your time highly, that is less likely. And without personally inspecting it, or knowing how far you want to go (marginally operational or full restoration) it's impossible to say.

It looks like both front idler wheels will need to be recovered or replaced. If the latter, they run about $500, each. The tracks are draped over the drive sprockets, so they aren't visible. If they're bad, figure about $600, each to have them recovered. What shape are the tires in?

The close-up of the track belting shows it to be pretty weather cracked. If the pic is representative of the track belts, I'd plan on new belts. You can buy them pre-punched, or you can buy the raw belting and punch the belts yourself at considerable savings, but either way, installing new belting is a chore that no one describes as fun.

A 1450 Super Imp has a Ford 200 CID I-6 engine and a Ford C4 three speed automatic, as well as an OC-12 rear differential. What shape are those in? OC-12s can be expensive to rebuild.

There are too many unknowns at this point. Clearly, it looks like someone parked this and abandoned it. That's not a good sign.

Some people love the Imp series and others are less enthusiastic. For reference, I'm 6'4" and I find the cab to be somewhat cramped.

Good luck with your decision, and feel free to ask questions....
 
Thank you very much. So the machine is being give to me. But the axel is missing. And I'm wondering if trying to find an axel to get it moving is worth it. Or maybe just part it out.
The engine and tranny are intact. The cab has a few drilled holes and one area of rust through. But all in all it appears to be pretty solid.
So my biggest expense will be the axel, if I can find who has it, or getting a replacement.
Thank you for all the comments and information.
 
I don't have a clue how hard it would be to find a good OC-12 assembly for a wide track 1450, or what one would sell for.

In terms of who to ask, I think forum member Redsqwrl is very resourceful at finding and procuring things. I'd reach out to him. I'd also recommend talking to Pat Foster at Spryte Improvement. He's also a forum member, and I think he is especially knowledgeable about OC-12s in general. He may also know where one can be found.

But my impression is that is probably the single most expensive/valuable part of the whole machine. Free, is of course the best possible price, and gives you significant latitude as far as acquiring needed parts without going underwater financially on the project. But it would be a LOT of work.

Alternatively, you have two complete set of grousers and backing plates, and assuming they're in decent shape, they have some value. The blade system also has value, and assuming everything is there (blade itself, hydraulic cylinders, hydraulic hoses, control valve, hydraulic pump and assorted brackets, pulleys, mounting frames, hardware, etc) that makes for a very attractive package for someone wanting a factory blade setup to retrofit on another machine.

There was no such thing as a factory four-door Imp/Super Imp. One either got a two-door cab or a full cab, though some versions had the fully enclosed cab as open from one end to the other, and others had the setup as essentially two different cabs. Generally speaking, full cab machines bring more money that two door versions.

Snowcat prices in general have come up significantly over the last several years. At present there are two Super Imps listed for sale on ksl.com, both priced at $25K:



You can also look at the snowcat classifieds section on the forum and retrospectively search for various Imp/Super Imp machines for sale.
 
Thank you very much. I'm greatful for all your information. I'm working on who actually owns the vehicle, been abandoned 20+ years ago. And if they might know where the axel is.
Here in Iowa it is wet and soupy, I don't want to tear up the property owners pasture. After the freeze I will get it loaded and in my shop. I'll post more then. Thanks again.
 
Thank you very much. I'm greatful for all your information. I'm working on who actually owns the vehicle, been abandoned 20+ years ago. And if they might know where the axel is.
Here in Iowa it is wet and soupy, I don't want to tear up the property owners pasture. After the freeze I will get it loaded and in my shop. I'll post more then. Thanks again.
Good luck with the project!
 
Gonna be fun...depending on your definition of Fun!
When I got my Imp WT 1404 this summer, it was and still is a bit rough but all there and running, with snow blade and with trailer. I've just done the simple necessary stuff like change the oil and gas, new rubber on the tracks, and disassembled/fixed the C4 differential. Just simple easy stuff like that...depending on your definition of easy. Took only a few minutes (around 3000) to rebuild the tracks and a couple G's of pocket change.
My advice: go for it but be prepared for a lot of work. Your largest challenge will be finding a differential.
 
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